My NX6010

[murphy1244]

Maybe the third time will work Murph...

Not gonna happen.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I've owned many (17) diesel pickups. Diesel's should never be left idling in sub zero temps. Your RPM's should be bumped up 1250-1500 to keep cylinder temps high enough to allow full fuel burn. If left sitting at idle, you're going to run into cylinder wash. I've always bumped my idle up 12-1300 after 1-2 min at idle. I do this with all of my pickups and tractors and haven't had a problem to date. By doing this you will also have faster warm up times.

Diesel trucks have a cold idle stepper motor that automatically increases the idle rpm, or steps the idle up if you tab the gas after a cold start.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Wow, hadn't even thought about the tier 4 complications ....

Nobody talking in this thread has thought about tier 4 except the Ford tech who mentioned the new trucks have an inline electric heater.

At any-rate, I will eventually get things squared away.

Today I used 3M spray adhesive to glue a pad onto my chainsaw carrier I'm making.

I also got around to addressing a leak on the female 3rd function quick disconnect. Another previous day I had replaced the male, but that didn't fix the leak, so today I pulled the plumbing out so i could get at things.

And while doing that, I noticed one of the loader's lines was working against the lower windscreen and so I made a little guard for it from a leftover hydraulic sock.

I also moved the damaged QD in the back from the middle of the stack to the top of the stack for easier access when I can locate a replacement.

Sangki mades this rear quick disconnect, and I need to find a vender because my dealer informed me that through them, the disconnects are silly expensive. I've had lno luck searching.

In other news, I started working on beefing up what will become the mount for my new chainsaw holder.

 

[grm61]

For what it is worth... IMO you would be better off leaving that tractor run at 1300 to 1400RPM to keep heat in the exhaust system and the egts hot if your going to be off it for a few minutes vs shutting it on and off all day, then if it senses it needs to do a burn it can.

I drive a 2014 Peterbuilt at work with a 525 horse Cummins. It has a dpf, egr cooler ,and takes DEF also...The word from the factory...don't let it idle for more than 5 minutes..bump the rpm up if sitting running longer than that...I read in the owners book that to initiate a automatic burn while driving, the computer has to sense enough heat in the exhaust system before it will initiate the regen cycle, as of right now, it does a burn about once a week...I put 300 to 400 miles a day on it.


Word from the mechanics..drive it like you stole it..lol
The harder your run them, the less problems you have with the emmisions system.

 

[94BULLITT]

Thank you for your thoughts. I mess up nomenclature all of the time. And names. I try not to, my bad. Bad enough that I do it when talking but my auto-spell changes words on me all the time. Gets really bad when it is trying to auto correct an option chain. At any-rate, I cannot be revving up an engine at 10 degrees or less to warm it up. The tractor will be stored in my sister's unheated pole barn and tasked with whatever they want. For that reason I'm also considering a circulation engine heater such as Zerostart's 8000 series. According to their literature, a 750 watt heater should take a stone cold engine to 120 degrees in about half and hour of being plugged in.

A 330-5036 in this
http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/userfiles//Industrial Tank Circulation Engine Heater Sellsheet.pdf

Or a 3308001 in the 8000 series for a 750 watt circulation heater.
http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/userfiles//Series 8000 Tank Circulation Heater.pdf


If anybody wants to go off the deep end and find all kinds of products that keep fluids like brake lines from freezing and fuel lines from freezing, to external cab heaters, here you go.
Phillips & Temro - Literature

Edit: After hunting around, I decided to go with the industrial 1000W application. The least expensive source I found was here: ZeroStart - 330-5048 - 1000W Industrial Circulation Heater

With a circulation heater all you are going to do is warm the coolant. You are still going to have cold engine oil and hydraulic oil so you are not going to be able to jump in your tractor and go to work. It is still going to need to warm up.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

To mount the chainsaw holder I made, I needed to beef up the rear window wash reservoir cover with a pair of gussets so the cover could support the additional weight of a saw and the saw mount.

Bottom

Top

Even though the window wash reservoir is flat, begging to have something bolted up to it, there are all kinds of little clearance issues, not the least of which is the rear window opening. For that reason I used standoffs to clear the rear brake light.

Anyway, the result should give the operator years of service.

YRC just called and it sounds like my new Everything Attachment's box grader is in. It also sounds like the circulating water heater will be delivered this afternoon, and it looks like it is time for me to get my dock in, as this is what is happening in northern Minnesota.

 

[AaronS]

I really like your chainsaw holder a lot! And please keep that white stuff up there for as long as possible!

 

[95ram]

I've purchased a JVC KDX310BT radio from Amazon At any-rate, I want a radio to work with my iPhone over bluetooth so I can stream my toe-tappers and be able to tune in my two crazy local Indian variety stations and the oldies station broadcasting out of Park Rapids, MN (89.9 KKWE, 90.5 and 97.5FM respectively if you're in Hubbard or Cass Counties).

I don't know how good the stock speakers are and so I'll try them out first before making a judgment about them.

Eric, did you just splice the factory wires for this or were you able to find a wiring harness?

 

[Threepoint]

[snip]
Even though the window wash reservoir is flat, begging to have something bolted up to it, there are all kinds of little clearance issues, not the least of which is the rear window opening. For that reason I used standoffs to clear the rear brake light.
[snip]

Clever, Eric. You're right about the rear windshield washer reservoir cover begging to have something bolted to it. I've been thinking about what to use if for for awhile, and your idea is a good one. :thumbsup: I like it better than mounting the holder on one of the FEL lift arms, which is another way I've seen it done.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, did you just splice the factory wires for this or were you able to find a wiring harness?

While I did post the wiring diagram for those who want to swap out to a different radio in their NX cab tractors, I never got around to installing the new radio because I have not found the right face plate with two screws on opposite sides, or failing that I need to make yet another bracket that holds the radio and accepts the screws in the locations of wherever they go in the replacement radio bezel.

However, it is now too cold outside for me to want to fab a bracket outside. As it is, it is getting too cold for me to want to work in my unheated garage.

Next year, as I have time. But next spring's high nail will be to list and sell my city house. If I get nothing else done next year, I need to get that done.

 

[Threepoint]

Eric, did you just splice the factory wires for this or were you able to find a wiring harness?

95ram, I'll add my experience, as I just went through this a few months ago. I searched high and low, but was not able to find an adapter to join the Kioti pre-wired stereo harness module to the input socket on the radio I installed. Mine is not a JVC, but a Pyle PLMR19W Marine AM FM USB Radio. (I wanted to be able to monitor NOAA Weather Radio, which requires a VHF-capable receiver.) I just cut off the Kioti module, leaving 1-1/2" of wire to it in the unlikely event I'll ever want to reattach it (dealer's suggestion). Then spliced it in with very small wire nuts, over-taped with vinyl electrical tape.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

95ram, I'll add my experience, as I just went through this a few months ago. I searched high and low, but was not able to find an adapter to join the Kioti pre-wired stereo harness module to the input socket on the radio I installed. Mine is not a JVC, but a Pyle PLMR19W Marine AM FM USB Radio. (I wanted to be able to monitor NOAA Weather Radio, which requires a VHF-capable receiver.) I just cut off the Kioti module, leaving 1-1/2" of wire to it in the unlikely event I'll ever want to reattach it (dealer's suggestion). Then spliced it in with very small wire nuts, over-taped with vinyl electrical tape.

I take it that you reused the stock radio bracket that is between that cab top and ceiling liner?

How did you attach the faceplate on the inside of the cab?

My immediate problem with the JVC is that is it half the size and needs to be supported and cannot use the stock radio bracket.

Weatherband radio wise, I'm looking at this one on Amazon.

Amazon.com : Dual AMB600W Marine Bluetooth CD Receiver with Weatherband Tuner : Vehicle Receivers : Car Electronics

 

[Threepoint]

I take it that you reused the stock radio bracket that is between that cab top and ceiling liner?

How did you attach the faceplate on the inside of the cab?

My immediate problem with the JVC is that is it half the size and needs to be supported and cannot use the stock radio bracket.

Weatherband radio wise, I'm looking at this one on Amazon.

Amazon.com : Dual AMB600W Marine Bluetooth CD Receiver with Weatherband Tuner : Vehicle Receivers : Car Electronics

I did not use the stock radio bracket. The Pyle unit came with a sleeve that fit tightly into the cut-out opening in the headliner and metal reinforcing panel immediately behind the headliner. The sleeve is secured in place by bending over mounting tabs for that purpose against the sides, top and bottom of the backside of the cut-out opening. I did have to file about 3/32" off the right side of the cut-out opening to make it wide enough for the sleeve, but otherwise no modification was necessary. The radio then slides into the sleeve and locks in place. It is so light and shallow that I didn't need to add the rear support strap, but I can do that later if it proves necessary. An outer trim ring then snaps over the front panel of the radio to complete the installation. See pic below. I reinstalled the factory screws that originally secured the blank plastic cover plate merely to fill the holes. In the pic, you can see the faint outline where the cover plate left an impression in the headliner material. It doesn't bother me, but if it did, I think it would be easy to cut out the center of the cover plate on a scroll saw or jig saw and repurpose it as a custom trim ring/faceplate.

The Dual unit that you link to on Amazon looks very nice. :thumbsup: Out of curiousity, I pulled up the installation manual to compare it to the Pyle. http://www.dualav.com/support/manuals/amb600w.pdf It looks like it mounts exactly the way mine does, and with outside dimensions of 78mm x 78mm x 51mm, should fit in the headliner cut-out opening nicely. Can't tell for sure what the weight is. You may need to add a rear support strap. The Amazon page says 4.7 lbs., but that may be shipping weight. It sounds a bit heavy for a $115 radio/cd player.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Today I chased down a replacement rear QD with the right adaptor to fit.

The guys over at Everything Attachments may get a kick out of my using an Everything Attachments Root Grapple to unload an EA box blade.

I unloaded my truck just about the time my neighbors came home from work, giving them something to look at while retaining my "most interesting neighbor crown." :thumbsup:

 

[s219]

I think i know how your neighbors feel. While we were building our new place in the country, I was trailering my tractor and equipment back and forth to our old suburban house on a cul-de-sac. Except for me and one other neighbor, most people there didn't even mow their own grass and were real city slickers. So it was like I was putting on a reality TV show every time I blew through with my tractor and other rigs.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I think i know how your neighbors feel. While we were building our new place in the country, I was trailering my tractor and equipment back and forth to our old suburban house on a cul-de-sac. Except for me and one other neighbor, most people there didn't even mow their own grass and were real city slickers. So it was like I was putting on a reality TV show every time I blew through with my tractor and other rigs.

A little different culture here because everybody has a lake place and nobody can find help and so everybody does basic maintenance. Even so, my next door neighbor and I have noticed that we're the only ones doing stuff with our hands, while my next door neighbor's wife (who owns a retail linen store and is therefore, like a dairy farmer, always working), pointed out to me that none of the women in our neighborhood work.

 

[Threepoint]

Eric, I meant to ask earlier about your chainsaw holder. Did you end up fabricating the cage from scratch using bar stock? If so, what gauge? I really like the design.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, I meant to ask earlier about your chainsaw holder. Did you end up fabricating the cage from scratch using bar stock? If so, what gauge? I really like the design.

1/8"

I'm a little brief because our snow has been upgraded to 12" inches and I don't want to pull my tractor through it so I'm scrambling to get out of town.

Oh, and I'm still smelling anti-freeze.

I really need to get the right radiator adaptor because my universal one isn't sealing good enough to do a longer term pressure check. After looking around, it seems like I should pick up a new "master" coolant pressure tester kit since time stands still for no man, and there are many new radiator necks out there.

In preparation of chasing off, I attached the box blade for transport.

BTW, Everything Attachments, what color paint are you guys using? The transporter rubbed a pile of of paint off and I want to rattle can on more.

 

[Malibu 496]

I wouldn't want to drive through it either. Sounds like it is going to get pretty nasty around here the next couple days. I wish I had a tractor already.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I wouldn't want to drive through it either. Sounds like it is going to get pretty nasty around here the next couple days. I wish I had a tractor already.

Where are you in MN? Rochester is estimated to get 20" of the white stuff.