My NX5510H

   / My NX5510H #101  
You already have the adapters I described earlier. What's sticking out is MNPT. (see how they are tapered? = pipe thread)
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#102  
You already have the adapters I described earlier. What's sticking out is MNPT. (see how they are tapered? = pipe thread)

Yes, I saw/see that they tapper. I just wasn't sure what they were (don't know what BSPP thread is like).

MNPT is what I would use to connect up an AG connector, correct?

I'm wanting to go JIC, in which case I'm not sure if these adapters are of any real use to me. Would have been nice to have been able to specify: still don't know why they come with these when they don't mention it.
 
   / My NX5510H #103  
You'd build a hose that the FNPT on one end and JIC on the other. But I don't think there are any JIC QDs (only PT or Boss are common). I think this is an unusual place to use JIC.
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#104  
You'd build a hose that the FNPT on one end and JIC on the other. But I don't think there are any JIC QDs (only PT or Boss are common.

I still have to do a 90 degree on that cylinder. Seems that I'd be better off just going from there with BSPP to JIC, which would keep me JIC on both ends of the hose (adapter on tractor side would go JIC to MNPT to connect to the AG coupler).
 
   / My NX5510H #105  
I still have to do a 90 degree on that cylinder. Seems that I'd be better off just going from there with BSPP to JIC, which would keep me JIC on both ends of the hose (adapter on tractor side would go JIC to MNPT to connect to the AG coupler).

Seem unnecessarily complex to me unless you already have the hose. :confused3: sounds like it would work though.

Edit: if you can find that adapter...
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#106  
Seem unnecessarily complex to me unless you already have the hose. :confused3: sounds like it would work though.

Edit: if you can find that adapter...

I really don't know. That's why I'm here asking:)

Are you thinking that I'd get a hose with an FNPT 90 degree connector on it? It would have to be 1/2" hose, though. (would 1/2" be an issue with flexing [or lack of flexing] back here?)
 
   / My NX5510H #107  
Here is the link to surplus center. Surplus Center

6 JIC M x 3/8 BSPP M 90 DEGREE ELBOW ITEM NUMBER: 9-3801-6-6

3/8" X 36" JIC 6F X JIC 6F 4800 PSI HYD HOSE ITEM NUMBER: 930-2236

JIC 6M x 1/2 NPTM CONNECTOR ITEM NUMBER: 9-2404-6-8 PRICE: $1.55

1/2" NPT COUPLER MALE TIP S71-4 ITEM NUMBER: 928-AA
 

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   / My NX5510H #108  
The pic isn't the greatest, and the tractor is a bit dirty but at least you get the idea of what it looks like hooked up. As for the parts list just order 2 of each item and you would be set.
 
   / My NX5510H #109  
Been wondering... Can I verify that my dealer did, in fact, ballast my rear tires? Rotate valve stem down so it's close to the ground and then release the valve a bit? I can't recall what ballast was supposed to be used, other than it's not calcium chloride.

Yes, you can do that. They should be filled to approximate the top of the rim, so having the valve stem anywhere but the very top should give you your answer. Just take off the cap and push the little button.
 
   / My NX5510H #110  
Most times the tires are way overinflated from the dealer. So you will want to check pressures anyway...If the tires are filled you will know as soon as you take your air chuck off the stem (or you can hear the air gurgling through the fluid). Even if the valves are at the top they still hold a little liquid in them. I fill my filled tires with the valve stem at the top, idkw. Oh, I remember, because the valves sometimes stick a little with calcium in them. When they stick and the stem is at the bottom the fluid gushes out. When the valves are at the top and you hit them with pretty high pressure the fluid is blown out of the stem into the tire immediately and the valves don't stick open. Calcium is used in Canada's colder regions because anything else will freeze. Calcium is also heavy. The rusted rim problems are way overstated (as long as your inner tubes are good).

Keep a good eye (wrench) on the loader pin-keeper bolts. Also check all of the loader- frame bolts. Check your drawbar pin-keeper (dealer probably installed the drawbar).

Check the wheel lugs!

Basically check all the bolts, especially the ones the dealer has touched.

Not to be too hard on dealers, but the factory torques to spec. The dealer, not so much...
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#111  
country, many thanks! That elbow for sure is the way to go. Parts ordered! Dirty tractor?:eek: Should see my B7800! And my Kioti is now starting to get dirty: moving material today; I have concrete-like dust even on the steering wheel:D

motownbrowne, thanks for the confirmation. As holeycow notes, always good to verify work done by a dealer (or anyone).

holeycow, thanks for the tips. I need to get a heftier torque wrench!
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#112  
I picked up that used Bush Hog 286 that I'd mentioned in an earlier post. New drive line and blades. Chain guards. Deck reinforced (from day one) with 1/4" plate steel. Though it's not going to win any beauty contest I'm figuring that it'll end up being a great acquisition: the deck shows dents, even with that extra plate steel! Based on what I see out on TractorHouse.com used units are priced over $1,600 (and that was for one with holes in the deck!). I picked this one up for $800. I've been too busy to get any pictures, but will try and get some.

I believe that the gearboxes on this model were 110 hp: it's a pretty big gearbox, that's for sure! Deck steel was 10ga. With the added steel on this thing it puts it closer to the specs of the "medium duty" units (BH 26; Woods BB720X etc.). I figure the one I got is close to 1,200 lbs.
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#113  
The pic isn't the greatest, and the tractor is a bit dirty but at least you get the idea of what it looks like hooked up. As for the parts list just order 2 of each item and you would be set.

Looking closer at your picture, did you ditch one of the fittings (on the valve port toward the middle of the cylinder) that came with the cylinder? That connection looks like it's shorter than the other one. Optical illusion?
 
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   / My NX5510H #114  
Yes the fitting is actually a short straight bspp to jic then a jic to jic 90, to make it taller than the other hose, when I first put mine together I thought I was going to need to have that hose go over the top of the other one. Worked out better to just clock them both to the side, I just haven't installed my other short fitting back on.
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#115  
OK, thanks for the clarification.

I'm now working up a list for running hose up to the FEL. I'm complicating things a bit by adding in couplers between the tractor body and the FEL. For reference (I don't expect anyone to really try to read this) I have:, working from rear remote toward the FEL:

1/2" AG NPTM coupler -> 1/2" NPTM / 3/8" JIC 6M -> 8' [or whatever I measure] of 3/8" JIC 6F hose -> 3/8" JIC 6M / 1/2" JIC 8M -> [bulkhead] 1/2" JIC 8M / 1/2" NPTM -> 1/2" NPTF AG coupler -> 1/2" NPTM AG coupler -> 1/2" NPTM / 3/8" JIC 6M -> 10' [or whatever I measure] of 3/8" JIC 6F hose -> 3/8" JIC 6M / 1/2" NPT[F/M] -> 1/2" NPT[F/M] flat faced couplers
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#116  
As promised, pictures of the "new" Bush Hog. Had not unloaded it yet: had a bit of a time unloading it- had on the pallet forks for some other work and those didn't prove to be the best thing to use; I think the grapple would have been better. As you can see in that last photo the original deck is pretty much toasted: when the guy welded on the extra plate steel he really did extend the life of it (foresight). Unlike with the previous owner, the deck won't take such a beating as I don't have much in the way of rocks to worry about.

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   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#117  
A lot of forking around...

Moved the poles for my new woodshed out of my way:

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Shuffled around some cages of firewood. They're scattered about while in the process of building the woodshed. Needed to move some around so I could grab one with seasoned wood in it for delivery to the porch (which required moving those posts -see above- out of the way in order to do):

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Retrieved some strays from out on the property (still one way out there- I got its sibling but only after traveling over really soft and wet ground; didn't want to go back over that ground to fetch it! this tractor has a lot more ground impact than the B7800!):

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I am looking forward to installing the cameras and monitor. Unlike with my B7800, I cannot stand up in the Kioti and look down at the front w/o it activating the safety switch/cutout (will contemplate bypassing this]). I ended up digging up a lot of grass+dirt:thumbsdown:
 
   / My NX5510H
  • Thread Starter
#118  
Back to the plumbing bits for the FEL 3rd function...

Any issues with running with 3/8" AG couplers? This would make the bulkhead connection much cleaner (than going 3/8" [rear section of hose] to 1/2" [bulkhead fittings & AG couplers] and then back to 3/8" [front/FEL section of hose]).

Specifically, looking at:

2706LN-06-06 | 3/8" NPTF Male Pipe x 3/8" JIC Bulkheadhead

3AGF3-AG3F3 | Set of 3/8" Couplers with 3/8" NPTF Threads

At the far ends of the plumbing there's 1/2" couplers, AG on rear and flat face on the front. These would, of course, require 3/8" JIC to 1/2" NTP adapters.
 
   / My NX5510H #120  
3/8 would be fine. No reason to even use 1/2" on the front even you can stay 3/8 there also if you wanted.
 

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