My NX5510H

[DieselBound]

Went out bush hog shopping the other day. Total dud. One place that was listed as a Bush Hog dealer really doesn't sell Bush Hog (they're a Deere dealer, so I suppose it makes sense why). Got a quote on an MX6 (Deere), $3,592, but I have no interest in Deere rotary cutters. Then went to a Woods dealer (and I know them to be one) and they were closed. Crap! Just figured that they'd be open. Same place that I'd went to to look at New Hollands and Yanmars and no one would come around to ask to show me anything. Figured that showing up in person that I'd be more likely to get their best quote; but, will likely now just call. Will also check with my Kubota dealer on what kind of deal on the Land Pride RCR2672.

Just ran across this used BH 286 for $800. It would be considered a Standard Duty (2" dia cut capacity), so not quite as robust, but it's still not bad.

B

Front and rear chains. New blades and driveline. Not sure if slip clutches go bad. Front seal doesn't look to be leaking (badly anyway). No idea on the bottom one.

I just paid $700 (was asking $650 - I paid additional because he delivered) for a Land Pride RCR1860 (replacement for my old Rankin for the B7800). Any halfway reasonable 6-footers tend to go for a lot more.

 

[DieselBound]

What length of hydraulic top link have people gotten? I did a quick measure and it looks like, without extending the stock link till it comes apart, 19" to 28". Does that sound right?

I'm looking to get from here:

ww.haytools.com/specials.htm

CAT 2 - 19-27"

-OR- ???

CAT 2 - 21.5-32.5"

If I were to go with a quick hitch then I'd think that the second one would be more appropriate, yes?

 

[DieselBound]

Here's a closer look at that gap in the bulkhead. It's sealed from the outside, so no concern there; just that it's a QA issue (that metal is clearly bowed back):

 

[DieselBound]

And on the back window, would folks nag the dealer about this? (it seems to function fine)

 

[DieselBound]

And another nit pick:



The boots on the additional valves' cabling are clear inferior to the stock one (bottom). They don't really seal at all. Should I demand replacements?

Also, the hydraulic stack is twisted (counter-clockwise) a bit: you can see that in my post with the back window.

It's all fairly trivial, but it sure does speak to QA, attention to details: factory and dealer.

 

[countrybumpkin]

The rear remotes are installed correctly , as for the boots on the cables they need to be pulled out farther so the ends seal like the lower one.

 

[DieselBound]

The rear remotes are installed correctly , as for the boots on the cables they need to be pulled out farther so the ends seal like the lower one.

You're right! They'd just stuffed them in. Able to get the top one reseated. Middle one, however, has a rip in the boot (rubbing due to not being installed correctly), and, I can't get it to seat anyway (too much of MY time here); cable is pinched to far against the edge.

And... where the heck did THIS go?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

What length of hydraulic top link have people gotten? I did a quick measure and it looks like, without extending the stock link till it comes apart, 19" to 28". Does that sound right?

I'm looking to get from here:

ww.haytools.com/specials.htm



CAT 2 - 19-27"

-OR- ???

CAT 2 - 21.5-32.5"

If I were to go with a quick hitch then I'd think that the second one would be more appropriate, yes?

CAT 2 - 19-27"

You have a 9" stroke and want CAT2? You should measure the pin size on the existing top link. You may need to use SpeeCo spacers to shim things down. The SpeeCo spacers are available from every local farm and fleet store. Top cylinder wise, I suggest you get

Either 2X8.25X1.18 CAT I HYD DA TOP LINK CYL

Or

2X11X1.18 CAT I HYD DA TOP LINK CYL

If you move up to a CAT2, measure your pins. The CAT2 pins are 1" and the biggest difference is that the rod goes from 1-3/16" on the CAT1 to 1-1/4" on the CAT2. End pins are what? 3/4" an inch on CAT1.

Here is an orange CAT 2. Notice the collapsed length is a little long but I didn't spend much time looking around.

Kubota VFM3005 Hydraulic Top Link Assembly | eBay

Anyway, this isn't that big of a deal, but try to stay within an inch of the collapsed length. You can extend further than the stock top link.

Also, be aware that you may need some 3/8" hoses, the adapter to go from cylinders size holes to 1/2" NPT and two male 1/2" AGG connectors. Pioneer makes them and they are also at the local Fleet store. This stuff is like plumbing with adaptor to go from one size to another size.

 

[DieselBound]

Eric, pin size is nominally 1", so Cat2. You thinking the 55s are like the 45s (Cat1)?

I have a bag of bushings for the 3pt. I'm assuming it's for connecting up to Cat1 impliments.

I didn't crank out the stock top link all the way. Maybe there was still more length to go? I was worried about unscrewing it to the point that the ends came out of the body. Figured that the more important measurement was the shortened length.

 

[DieselBound]

Here's a video of my water incursion (wife spraying water):

[video]https://www.dropbox.com/s/asmcneh3ze3c5mg/P1120622.MOV[/video]

 

[Citydude]

Wow, from excitement to getting your dream tractor to disappointment. I hope the dealer gets it corrected to your satisfaction. Hang in there.

 

[DieselBound]

Wow, from excitement to getting your dream tractor to disappointment. I hope the dealer gets it corrected to your satisfaction. Hang in there.

No, wouldn't say it's a disappointment. I'll take these things over some sort of component failure. Operationally everything is fine. Just spread some more gravel with it today; raining and I was still dry- cab leak is minor (unless you shoot a strong stream of water at it). The significant issues have to do with the cab- cabs greatly increase the complexity of things.

And, it's not my "dream tractor." I save my "dreams" for how I want to shape the world around me (tools, such as a tractor, help in such work).

 

[countrybumpkin]

Unless they changed them, the tractor side of the toplink is cat1 3/4".

I have the 2x11 the second one that Eric linked too.

 

[Citydude]

No, wouldn't say it's a disappointment. I'll take these things over some sort of component failure. Operationally everything is fine. Just spread some more gravel with it today; raining and I was still dry- cab leak is minor (unless you shoot a strong stream of water at it). The significant issues have to do with the cab- cabs greatly increase the complexity of things.

And, it's not my "dream tractor." I save my "dreams" for how I want to shape the world around me (tools, such as a tractor, help in such work).

Good for you!

 

[DieselBound]

Unless they changed them, the tractor side of the toplink is cat1 3/4".

I have the 2x11 the second one that Eric linked too.

Just measured. The pins on the tractor side are 3/4"- Cat1. That end of the top link has a bushing. All seems kind of confusing to be having different configurations here.

I'll definitely defer to the seasoned folks on these kinds of things. I really appreciate those that have done leg work.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Just measured. The pins on the tractor side are 3/4"- Cat1. That end of the top link has a bushing. All seems kind of confusing to be having different configurations here.

I'll definitely defer to the seasoned folks on these kinds of things. I really appreciate those that have done leg work.

I'm running a CAT1 top link but I am running a CAT2 QuickHitch. A CAT1 quick hitch will fit the rear end better without knocking out the rear fenders and the cutters you're looking at a CAT 1 and CAT 2 quick hitch compatible. As you can see from my tractor, a CAT2 quick hitch will hit the fenders if the three point is up and the hydraulic top link is in the short position.

 

[DieselBound]

Eric, yes, I recall seeing/hearing about that! I think that that was in the back of my mind when I was thinking about whether to consider a quick hitch (one of the reasons I was shying away). Sigh, and I'd sold off my Cat 1 quick hitch some time back.

Just noticed that it doesn't look like your rear window has a defrost element in it. I was surprised to see that mine did. Maybe they're now stock?

 

[cat fever]

Not sure if the loader arms settle down/equalize over a period of time. Out of fear of you seeking out institutionalization laughing, maybe do some bucket work and then see how it looks? And yes, I'm totally bugged by this; perhaps more so because I don't understand what's going on (though even if I did I am not certain that that would keep me from being distracted by it like it's a chipped tooth [in your mouth]).

Here are a few random shots of loader work I've done.

Dug up my leach line with the loader, about 4 hours of time.


Moved the crusher fines into the barn and smoothed it out, about 3 hours of time.


With the pallet forks on, built the barn, used the loader every day for about 7 weeks.

Not a good shot but the last picture shows the gravel in front of the barn, moved and spread that also.

I love the tractor and have done lots with it as I'm sure you will also. But I think Kioti should at least see some photo's of how crooked the bucket looks---it just ain't right.
However, like you said; the tractor functions and works like it should, you are going to really love it.:thumbsup:

 

[countrybumpkin]

No option for a rear window defrost was available when I purchased mine, also appears from your pic of the rear service remotes they have changed to a different type of valve.

 

[cat fever]

No option for a rear window defrost was available when I purchased mine, also appears from your pic of the rear service remotes they have changed to a different type of valve.

I don't remember having the option for rear defrost on mine either.