My new circuits!!!

[jgrreed]

OK guys, I stopped by the shop today to see what's gone on so far on adding my new circuits. There was a small kerfuffle re: the cost of the install, so I was too flustered to snap pics of the tractor, but I'll get those to you soon.

In the pic below are the bits of that I received from Otto for my controls and grips. A big thanks to Peter at Interior Electronics in Kelowna for his help in getting the parts, and to Steve Redlich at Otto for his coaching in what I need.

On the left are the grips with the faceplates detached (the second grip is at the shop for sizing). The sketch is how I'm going to cut in the holes for the rocker switches. The lone rocker on the lower left is the ON/OFF/ON switch that I'm going to use for the continuous ON circuit if I ever build a hydraulically powered weed wacker. It will go on the dash near the between the steering wheel and the throttle. The yellow pushbutton is for my horn project, which I'll deal with when the summer comes. The row of 5 rockers are the momentaries that are going to run the circuits. Below them are the gaskets to seal up the switches.

I'm about to start drawing and cutting..... wish me luck!!! Pics to follow.

-Jer.

 

[kennyd]

It's about friggin time we see some progress:laughing::laughing: Gonna use a 10 blade to cut them holes?

Talk to you soon

 

[beenthere]

Interesting. Can you link this thread into another that might give some background info?
Must be more to the story.

 

[jgrreed]

Ken - I wish like h**l i could have!! - the Dremel isn't the most precise tool in the league without your subject being very still, clamped down, and under a GA, but that's nothing a little silicone won't cover up!!

Beenthere - Oh there's lot's more to the story....

You can read here:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/134859-proportional-electrohydraulic-systems.html

.... or you can take this synopsis. I wanted to add some more hydraulic circuits to my tractor about 2 years ago. I started sniffing around and decided that I wanted to do a custom, very fancy, very involved proportional system. I then dropped off the TBN map for about a year to focus on some 'life stuff'. By this time I had come to my senses in more ways than one.....

When I moved to SK I actually needed at least one new circuit for a snow blade, so I decided to go ahead. I was able to refresh and draw on a lot of the research I did and advice I was given 2 years ago, and here I am now.

I still opted to go with an electrohydraulic system, but not proportional.

Here is what i've been left with at the end of the evening with my Dremel, some black silicone, and about 300$ worth of parts from Otto......

The smaller grip is for the loader joystick and the bottom rocker will control the grapple or snowblade. The top rocker is actually a dud for the time being, it's just there for possible future (ie if I get around to building my PTO driven high-flow hydraulic driven snowblower to hang from my loader). The yellow push button is what I use when I'm too close for missiles..... or if I need to blow the yet-to-be-installed horn.

The larger grip is going to go on the 3pt control lever. The bottom horizontal rocker will be for angling a blade, or rotating the chute on my blower. The top one will be for the tilt of top 'n tilt, and the vertical one is for the top of the top 'n tilt.

Yes, before someone notices, the top horizontal switch is a little cock-eyed.....

The last remaining switch is the one for the dash for the ON/OFF/ON wiring.

There's a ways to go yet, but most everything else will be done at the hydro shop. Hopefully be done by early next week.....

-Jer.

 

[J_J]

There are plenty of the electronic joysticks on the Internet, but if you just want to make your own, no reason why not.



8901-RB Handy-Grip

 

[jgrreed]

There are plenty of the electronic joysticks on the Internet, but if you just want to make your own, no reason why not.



8901-RB Handy-Grip

I couldn't find anything that suited my likes (and a few needs).... and at the end of the day, it was very, very fun!!!

-Jer.

 

[J_J]

The reason that I suggested those are, that they are probably water proof, and stand up to the elements better.

 

[jgrreed]

The reason that I suggested those are, that they are probably water proof, and stand up to the elements better.

Mine are waterproof and dust proof, not mil-spec, but IP68S (whatever that means). They'll stand up to the elements fine. My cuts weren't exactly ultraprecise, but I sealed them with the gaskets provided, and silicone.

-Jer.

 

[J_J]

The IP68 code means that they are waterproof to 50 ft. Good deal.

 

[jgrreed]

The IP68 code means that they are waterproof to 50 ft. Good deal.

Perfect, 'cause I added a 51' snorkel as well.....

I'm starting a lakefront-weed clearing business.....

-Jer.

 

[jgrreed]

Small problem.....

The large faced Otto grip that I intended to put on the 3pt hitch control lever is too big to fit between the seat's armrest and fender.....sooooo..... the 3 buttons that were placed on that grip are now going on some blank space on the right side fender, where the cruise control buttons are. They'll be cut in this weekend (correction, I'LL be cutting them in - I don't want to be deemed lazy) and hopefully I'll be blowing snow by tuesday.

Pics to follow.....

-Jer.

 

[kennyd]

They'll be cut in this weekend (correction, I'LL be cutting them in - I don't want to be deemed lazy

Lets get them straight this time:laughing::laughing::laughing:

 

[jonyyuma]

Wow, cool work on the stick. I wonder if I could waterproof my old Flight control stick from my 2001 computer game? Just kidding, but ehy look alike, hope you get the whacker built for it. Jy.

 

[jgrreed]

Lets get them straight this time:laughing::laughing::laughing:

If any of these are crooked, it's only for ergonomic reasons!!

-Jer.

 

[jgrreed]

Sat down today to fix my previous oops....

The switches popped out from the grip no problem, I didn't glue them, only silicone, and it wasn't really set up yet. The gaskets survived nicely, so I reused them.

I went with the same pattern as I was going to use on the grip, only tightened it up a bit in case I find an excuse to add something else.

I put a pic of the underside of the fender panel just for you all to see the pre-marked holes that JD places on there.

FOR SALE: One pre-cut Otto large grip. Price: Free, you pay for shipping.. Need to purchase own switches. PM me.

I hope I was able to take my pics from such an angle that you can see the 5 degree deviation in my cuts!!! Kenny..... this means you......!!

-Jer.

Just FYI, after having to retype this, I now realize that the trackpad on a macbook WILL indeed respond to the paws of a kitten..... thank you Steve Jobs, you maniacal techno-fiend...

 

[jgrreed]

After pre-drilling the holes, I've decided to add one more thing to my tractor to break up the boredom of pasture mowing - a cribbage board!!!.... Pics to follow....

-Jer.

 

[dcyrilc]

Looks good.:thumbsup:

 

[jgrreed]

Stopped at shop today to cut in the final switch in the dash, so I grabbed a few pics. The whole system is to be tested tomorrow, and hopefully it'll be home friday AM.

I'll explain a bit about the manifold and how it's laid out. It's a 5 place manifold, but only 4 are used - you can see that 'spot 4' is empty with the aluminum cap on it. The reason the 2 valves on the left of the rear view pic are raised a bit higher is because the black 'layer' between them and the manifold if a flow control valve. The FCV's that are sandwiched are bloody expensive (~ 180$) relative to a needle style (40$), but those are the circuits for the T n T, and there wasn't room anywhere else to plumb another style of FCV.

The needle FCV for the added front circuit can be seen just in behind the view of the loader QD bracket - it's black with a silver knob.

-Jer.

 

[kennyd]

Looking good Jer:thumbsup: Hope the $$$ issue worked out in your favor, not theirs:laughing: