Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[massey240]

If you are in need of flail mower blades for the Ford 907 or 917 mower the ones from Quality Farm Supply have been excellent. Have had them on my flail now for 4 years cutting 10 acres multiple times and year and still look pretty darn good. The blades are $6.95 per blade currently I ended up ordering multiple extras thinking I may break some with rocks but so far haven't but boy have I seen some sparks from a large rock wedging up in the mower. Only thing is my mower is the older manual tensioning type so have to keep the belt right, but I bought it for $100 so can't really complain.

 

[dieselscout80]

If you are in need of flail mower blades for the Ford 907 or 917 mower the ones from Quality Farm Supply have been excellent. Have had them on my flail now for 4 years cutting 10 acres multiple times and year and still look pretty darn good. The blades are $6.95 per blade currently I ended up ordering multiple extras thinking I may break some with rocks but so far haven't but boy have I seen some sparks from a large rock wedging up in the mower. Only thing is my mower is the older manual tensioning type so have to keep the belt right, but I bought it for $100 so can't really complain.

I bought a $100.00 Ford 917 back in 2009 and used it for years until the hood rusted completely out in 2020.

I got another one to replace it too.

Can you post a picture of the blades you are using?

 

[massey240]

I bought a $100.00 Ford 917 back in 2009 and used it for years until the hood rusted completely out in 2020.

I got another one to replace it too.

Can you post a picture of the blades you are using?

 

[dieselscout80]

Thanks I have used them and they work good.

 

[threeoranges]

Sorry to rain on an interesting discussion (I've only been through 1/10 of it!!!).

I am having a frustrating problem with my Betstco flail mower belts repeatedly failing.

(I hope links to pertinent outside images and videos is acceptable -- no ads.)

My email to Betstco (I've heard about Keith but I don't know if he's there anymore):

==================================

I am having frequent belt breakages with my EF125 flail mower.

It happened first with the OEM belts last week, and again with the new belts I got today, which were A38/4L400 (1/2" by 40" outer circumference).

I could not tighten the belts as much as I wanted to, because raising the gearbox too high to tighten the belts caused it to strike something. The belts were loose but not loose enough to fall off the pulleys.

The video below is with the PTO at its slowest speed (not 540 RPM) and the flail mower raised off the ground.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ar2wgEZy_jHyoeQW7Gjat-dQ0qGQ1g

Something was striking the gear box when it was raised too high to increase the belt tension.

I loosened the tension bolt until that striking sound went away, but then the belts felt loose and very flabby.

I used them anyway to mow with, until one of them burned out about 25 minutes into mowing:

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Ar2wgEZy_jHyoeQXMA4IU8SwnuJyOg

I am next going to try A37 ( 1/2" x 39" OC).

I do not know if am overloading it (EF125). It seems to mow okay but there is a slight smell of burning rubber until the belt breaks. I have removed all grease residue from the pulleys using a rag and a strong cleaner like acetone.

I could try raising the flail mower higher off the ground. Right now the roller sits gently on the ground and a level shows that the mower is balanced front-to-back by the adjustment of the top pin. There are no obstructions except thick grass, and the ground is mostly flat.

=================================

 

[LouNY]

Sorry to rain on an interesting discussion (I've only been through 1/10 of it!!!).

I am having a frustrating problem with my Betstco flail mower belts repeatedly failing.

(I hope links to pertinent outside images and videos is acceptable -- no ads.)

My email to Betstco (I've heard about Keith but I don't know if he's there anymore):

==================================

I am having frequent belt breakages with my EF125 flail mower.

It happened first with the OEM belts last week, and again with the new belts I got today, which were A38/4L400 (1/2" by 40" outer circumference).

I could not tighten the belts as much as I wanted to, because raising the gearbox too high to tighten the belts caused it to strike something. The belts were loose but not loose enough to fall off the pulleys.

The video below is with the PTO at its slowest speed (not 540 RPM) and the flail mower raised off the ground.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ar2wgEZy_jHyoeQW7Gjat-dQ0qGQ1g

Something was striking the gear box when it was raised too high to increase the belt tension.

I loosened the tension bolt until that striking sound went away, but then the belts felt loose and very flabby.

I used them anyway to mow with, until one of them burned out about 25 minutes into mowing:

https://1drv.ms/i/s!Ar2wgEZy_jHyoeQXMA4IU8SwnuJyOg

I am next going to try A37 ( 1/2" x 39" OC).

I do not know if am overloading it (EF125). It seems to mow okay but there is a slight smell of burning rubber until the belt breaks. I have removed all grease residue from the pulleys using a rag and a strong cleaner like acetone.

I could try raising the flail mower higher off the ground. Right now the roller sits gently on the ground and a level shows that the mower is balanced front-to-back by the adjustment of the top pin. There are no obstructions except thick grass, and the ground is mostly flat.

=================================

What belt is specified for your mower?
I'm surprised that it is an A series belt, how does a new belt sit in the pulleys? down low in the groove or up on the sides of the pulley.

 

[scootr]

I have a bestco flail HD 7 ft. I burnt up my first set. Salesperson said every new flail operator burns up the first set because they cut too short allowing the hammers to engage the earth...2nd set, I started cutting a couple inches taller with the front of the mower higher than the rear for better feed. And I put belt dressing on liberally. So far so good. There is tension instruction inside the cover, 3/4" deflection I believe. Check your manual.

 

[threeoranges]

It is specified as "Napa A38" in the Betstco manual. I believe that is a 40" outer circumference 1/2" V-belt.

I believe that the belts were slipping, and that's why they burned up. I tried to increase the tension by raising the gearbox, but it caused striking in the gearbox. I had to lower the tension to stop the striking, but then the belts were too loose, which probably explained their burning up.

 

[CADplans]

It is specified as "Napa A38" in the Betstco manual. I believe that is a 40" outer circumference 1/2" V-belt.

I believe that the belts were slipping, and that's why they burned up. I tried to increase the tension by raising the gearbox, but it caused striking in the gear box. I had to lower the tension to stop the striking, but then the belts were too lose, which probably explained their burning up.

Maybe a shorter belt would help??

 

[TractorNoob85]

I have a bestco flail HD 7 ft. I burnt up my first set. Salesperson said every new flail operator burns up the first set because they cut too short allowing the hammers to engage the earth...2nd set, I started cutting a couple inches taller with the front of the mower higher than the rear for better feed. And I put belt dressing on liberally. So far so good. There is tension instruction inside the cover, 3/4" deflection I believe. Check your manual.

I have the same mower and yes the belts took 3 mowing sessions to burn and break. What I noticed was the belts kept loosening themselves each time I mowed, so I would tighten them back and eventually, they would slip, burn, and snap. My mowing height was 2.5" and the skids were set around 1.5". I believe they are shotty China belts. I ordered some replacement belts from Goodyear and have yet to use them. They are much stiffer so I believe they are of better quality.

 

[dadohead]

Retired tractor engineer here... I've designed countless belt drives. Maybe I can help.

A twin A-belt drive seems marginal for this application. It is slipping, getting hot, and delaminating. Scary stuff... slipping makes heat and heat can make fire on a mower. A belt drive needs 3 things (minimum) to successfully carry high loads:

• Good belt wrap around the driver/driven sheaves
• Proper tension
• Enough belt to engage the sheave side walls/cord width

First, don't use 4L belts on your mower. These are fractional hp belts designed for low cost, general use applications. Use an 'A' section belt (same dimension but much more capable). Your belts are stretching and losing tension probably because the cord is polyester construction. Spec an A belt with an aramid cord; this is another name for Kevlar. They won't stretch. Most general use belts are 'wrap molded' construction.

Wrapped molded belts have some advantages (smooth engagement) but mainly they are cheaper to make. The core belt is smaller so they can cut more belts off of a band. Raw edge belts also have advantages: the cord (that carries the load) is wider and the raw edges really bite into the sheave.

So, find an A belt with aramid cord preferably with raw edge construction. Doesn't matter where it's made. If your sheaves are wide/deep enough for bigger belts (5/8" wide at the widest min)... spec B belts! Hope this helps!

 

[LouNY]

I am surprised that they spec'ed a "A" series belt to me that seems like kind of a light duty belt for that application.
The SP series can be a bit stronger.

 

[scootr]

My Bestco mower has 3 belts.

 

[dieselscout80]

I’m surprised they have belts burning up / breaking.

On my flail mower I have had on belt break since 2010 (2 different Ford 917 & Alamo SHD96).

 

[arto98607]

Sounds like this model mowers do not have belt idler, like for example the old ford 917L Special does?

It does add to cost of building a mower, but it sure helps to maintain belt tension.

Too bad Ford got out of the tractor business, but I think most of us can figure out the reasons why...

 

[dadohead]

Sounds like this model mowers do not have belt idler, like for example the old ford 917L Special does?

It does add to cost of building a mower, but it sure helps to maintain belt tension.

Too bad Ford got out of the tractor business, but I think most of us can figure out the reasons why...

View attachment 1592694

Yes! An idler increases the belt wrap both driver and driven sheaves see. In addition, a 'sprung' idler maintains the minimum tension required for hookup regardless of load so is easier on bearings than a fixed/adjustable idler.

The drive above (with large diameter sheaves, sprung idler, etc) is textbook for long life.

 

[dieselscout80]

Sounds like this model mowers do not have belt idler, like for example the old ford 917L Special does?

It does add to cost of building a mower, but it sure helps to maintain belt tension.

Too bad Ford got out of the tractor business, but I think most of us can figure out the reasons why...

View attachment 1592694

I wish my Ford 917’s idler pulley was spring controlled like yours is!

 

[threeoranges]

I have the same mower and yes the belts took 3 mowing sessions to burn and break.

What happened after that? Did it eventually get normal?

I tried increasing the tension of the belts, but the gearbox had a loud striking noise and I reduced the tension just enough to remove the striking noise. The belts still felt too loose. I couldn't increase the tension anymore without creating the striking noise.

 

[threeoranges]

Maybe a shorter belt would help??

I planned to try A37, but @dadohead and @LouNY have important comments.

 

[DavesTractor]

Is it clear to anyone what the striking noise is?