Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[Gypsyman]

Could you maybe explain what happened to the rear roller and what failed?

 

[leonz]

A couple of questions about belts on my Caroni TM1900 72” flail:

What should the belt tension be? I am looking at buying the Gates tension gauge but the Caroni’s manual doesn’t specify.

Where do you shop for same lot or ‘matched’ belts?

Thanks

Hello Jethro,

When we refer to the belt tension it is the amount of flex that is allowed and created after the adjustment of the V belt.

Please invest in the Gates V belt tension gauge as it will give you the correct tension required to transmit the amount
of torque needed to spin the flail mower rotor to 2,200 RPM+-.

Now about V belts, you can easily obtain the matched set of V belts if you insist that they have the same lot number that is melted or painted on the belts carcass, otherwise DO NOT buy them if they have different lot numbers!!!!!
The V belt with the different lot number will wear and stretch differently and that is one thing you do not want because the tighter V belt will be under greater stress from use.

 

[leonz]

I have a flail mower question, but first the details.

I have had a woodmaxx flail mower for about 4 years now and it has been great. About 2 years ago, the roller came off and I got it repaired, no big deal. A month ago it came off again, but this time I know what I did to cause it, so lesson learned.

I repair it again. This time it came off 1.5 days later. I couldn’t wait, so I just cut without the roller on and it cut fine.

I have a hydraulic top link on my tractor.

Do I even need to use the roller?

The most important thing is to keep the flail mower level from front to back by using a small bubble level and lock the lower link draft control to maintain the cutting height.
You have to decide whether you like how the mowing job looks without the roller and whether you want a striped lawn.

 

[TractorTYMe]

My Betstco FH-AGL165 ditch bank mower had both cylinders fail after 60h use. Took it to a local hydraulic shop, they diagnosed it as piston was install backwards from factory......wearing out seals prematurely. $861 it got honed, piston assembled correctly and countersunk port holes.

 

[John_Mc]

Now about V belts, you can easily obtain the matched set of V belts if you insist that they have the same lot number that is melted or painted on the belts carcass, otherwise DO NOT buy them if they have different lot numbers!!!!!
The V belt with the different lot number will wear and stretch differently and that is one thing you do not want because the tighter V belt will be under greater stress from use

Good luck. You can insist all you want, but if you are trying to buy matched, same lot number belts from many retailers around here, you'll either get a blank look, or be told "they don't sell them that way any more", or hear that "what we have is what you see on the shelf."

 

[LouNY]

That is one reason that I prefer to go with banded belts

 

[John_Mc]

That is one reason that I prefer to go with banded belts

I agree. If you can find them in your size and they fit your pulleys, they are the way to go.

 

[leonz]

Good luck. You can insist all you want, but if you are trying to buy matched, same lot number belts from many retailers around here, you'll either get a blank look, or be told "they don't sell them that way any more", or hear that "what we have is what you see on the shelf."

Hello John_Mc:,

If the person behind the parts counter does not know what and why
a V belt has a lot number on it the counterperson needs to be educated
as to why V belts have lot numbers and will continue to have lot numbers
as lot numbers are used as a quality control method.

They are either lying or do not know what they are talking about; and I am
going to assume the later explanation being they have no idea what they
are talking about-because V belts have had lot numbers burned into the
carcass for decades.

Lot numbers refer to the rubber batch that was created and molded over
the woven nylon and kevlar webbing IN THAT BATCH that was wound
together to create the inner core of the V belt before the rubber was poured
around it so it can be traced back to the spools of kevlar or nylon thread as well.

If their attitude is EHHHHH; so what, go to a Gates or Goodyear distributor
for V belts.

 

[leonz]

My Betstco FH-AGL165 ditch bank mower had both cylinders fail after 60h use. Took it to a local hydraulic shop, they diagnosed it as piston was install backwards from factory......wearing out seals prematurely. $861 it got honed, piston assembled correctly and countersunk port holes.

One more reason to buy Maschio or Del Morino Ditch bank flail mowers.

 

[Macinnis]

Could you maybe explain what happened to the rear roller and what failed?

I *think* the edge of the mower was being pulled to tough to one side of the other. I have a lot of en even ground, mostly terraces.

I initially thought I was losing the roller due to turning to tight and or the terrace issue was catching a side. Again, hydronic top link, so it’s not going to give like it should. This is kinda the entire question…hydronic top link and the need for a roller.

Thanks!!!

 

[leonz]

Good morning Macinnis,

Did the stub weldment of the rear roller break resulting in the loss of the rear roller?

 

[John0829]

Manufacturers often provide a matching code on the belt’s label or packaging. This code indicates that the belts have been factory-matched to ensure "identical length" and performance. If available, using belts with the same matching code is the easiest and most reliable method to identify matched V-belts.

Any parts supplier not understanding or saying they do not do that anymore is shall we say miss informed. In a situation calling for matched belts if one is shorter than the others it will be the one doing all the work wearing it out more quickly.

 

[Walter63]

I've used many flails over the years. Seppi, Rears, TriMax, Befco, Alamo and a few that I've probably forgotten. I prefer the Befco for several reasons. The housing is a little taller than some which means that there is more room for tall grass to stand up and be cut. Flails give their best cut close to the ground, by the way. And most importantly, you can specify rotation when ordering.

The direction of rotation is very important. The best way to describe flail rotation is whether it spins the same as the tractor tires, or opposite. Opposite rotation cuts and re-cuts the grass providing a very through mulching, useful on a lawn. The two drawbacks are that it can require much more horsepower in tall grass, and it may not cut tall stems like raspberry canes, etc. The tractor tires run over the grass, laying it down in a forward direction. With opposite rotation, the cutters can deflect tall material, instead of cutting it.

I prefer the cutter to rotate the same as the tractor tires. When the tractor tires lay the grass down, the rotating cutter picks it back up, cuts it clean, and spits it out the back, where it lays it down nicely. I use the flail on unused hay fields where the grass stands 2-3' tall. Using a flail that rotated opposite the tires, 100 HP and low gear still wasn't enough. With rotation the same as the tires, a 50 HP tractor did the job in third gear without bogging down.

Befco flails can be ordered with a choice of rotation, and can be changed later on (by a good mechanic). That's why I prefer them.

If you are doing tall grass, a flail works best rotating the same as the tractor tires. It cuts the grass nicely, because it picks up and cuts what the tires lay down.

 

[Gypsyman]

While researching these before I purchased one question always stuck in my mind. Why do they all run the small diameter rear roller instead of just having a pair of caster wheels off the back of the unit?

 

[John_Mc]

Manufacturers often provide a matching code on the belt’s label or packaging. This code indicates that the belts have been factory-matched to ensure "identical length" and performance. If available, using belts with the same matching code is the easiest and most reliable method to identify matched V-belts.

Any parts supplier not understanding or saying they do not do that anymore is shall we say miss informed. In a situation calling for matched belts if one is shorter than the others it will be the one doing all the work wearing it out more quickly.

You might want to check your sources before assuming that a parts supplier who claims they are no longer available is "misinformed".

A number of belt manufacturers no longer even offer matched length sets. Their manufacturing tolerances are tight enough on many of their offerings that they match within the original specification for what was once considered matched belts. This is the response I got from Gates corporation in response to an inquiry to their tech support about the availability of matched sets of belts.

Hello – we do not offer matched sets – as close as you could get would be two out of the same plant – please see below on how to determine this

Gates Corporation​

Gates General Inquiry​

​

​ ​ You have received a new form submission from the Gates.com Contact Us General Inquiry Form. Please review the details and respond as necessary. For any questions on this form, please contact the Gates Digital Group

One recommendation I have seen is to adjust the tension so it is correct for the tighter of the two belts. Run it for a day or so, and then readjust the tension. The tighter of the two belts will have stretched more than the looser belt. (With aramid fiber belts, it's more important to be close to the same from the start, since they don't stretch much.)

 

[leonz]

While researching these before I purchased one question always stuck in my mind. Why do they all run the small diameter rear roller instead of just having a pair of caster wheels off the back of the unit?

The rear roller helps to maintain the cutting height which is the height of the knife edge from the ground.

The flail mower rotor shroud does not have a very thick rolled steel weldment and as most all the flail mowers
sold now do not have a rear tubular cross brace welded to the flail mower rotor shroud to strengthen it and they
depend on the combines strength of the rear roller and the rear roller mounts to do this.

You can purchase a Vrisimo flail mower with front and rear caster wheels or a towed Wessex flail mower with 4
side mounted high floatation tires to do your mowing without a rear roller.

The old mott interstaters had an option for rear caster wheels

 

[Macinnis]

Good morning Macinnis,

Did the stub weldment of the rear roller break resulting in the loss of the rear roller?

It didn’t break of, but it was slightly bent, which allowed it to come off.

 

[Greenland South]

Hello Flail Nation.
I’m looking for a Canadian source for hammer blades for my Sicma TE200. Tram sales in western Canada used to carry the Sicma line but no longer. They apparently have 7 hammers left in stock. I need 26. I have reached out to Flail Master but have not heard back yet. Any one on here have a source for these. I’m not opposed to ordering them from the USA but a more local source would be better.
Thanks

 

[leonz]

Hello Greenland South,

Check with Martin Deerline in Mayerthorpe, Alberta 1-888-919-0046.

 

[Greenland South]

Nope they don’t. Thanks for the lead though.

Hello Greenland South,

Check with Martin Deerline in Mayerthorpe, Alberta 1-888-919-004