Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[K5lwq]

Thanks Leon! I am starting to get a better feel on proper uses. I did determine after looking last night that I needed to raise the mower some as it was mowing to close. I made a pass in the yard and it is already turning brown. We get so hot and dry here I am sure that the grass will burn up.

This mower only has two options on height other than the adjustments I can make with the top link. I lowered the roller and readjusted the top link to keep the skids just about 2" above the ground. Seams to leave the grass green at that height.

Now that I have a couple of hours getting use to it I am going to tackle my ditch bank.

I will definitely try mowing in a spiral and see how that works! Thanks for the tip and I am open to any other suggestions you and others might have!

 

[leonz]

Make sure you load the bucket with stone or sand to keep the mule stable.

 

[ckengine03]

I have a sundown FM 75 flail mower and I have to say it is great, once you get it set right. The setting up takes a bit but once its done the cut is far better than any rotary i have used.

 

[JWR]

I have a sundown FM 75 flail mower and I have to say it is great, once you get it set right. The setting up takes a bit but once its done the cut is far better than any rotary i have used.

I find that it is way too cumbersome to adjust height by unbolting and bolting the roller mounts. That makes the hydraulic top link a great asset for tipping the flail fore and aft and effectively changing the cutting height. Mine is 7.5 ft cutting width and I find I can cut a field noticeably quicker/faster with it than with my 7ft bush hog. You can just comfortably run faster with it. The flail is great in weeds, tall grass and briers but not for heavier woody stuff. I would not call the flail cut "better" than that of sharp bladed rotary cutter but I'd call it different. The flail gives a more uniform mulched sort of result.

 

[TheFarmerInAdell]

I did some mowing last weekend. This area usually gets cut on a regular basis because we have gatherings there. This year we got quite a bit of rain and I was lacking in the time department. It got to 4 feet tall before I was able to knock it down :ashamed:

I decided to use GPS to measure my speed and it said 4mph. That's the fastest I usually go. Any faster than that the flail and I bounce too much.

SHD88 on a MF 2706E (57hp, about 50 at the PTO).

 

[def38]

So, my Chicomm Titan flail mower began vibrating severely recently I put it on jackstands and looked it over spinning it at idle and crawling around under it. Removed the belt cover and determined that the top drive belt pulley bearing is shot. New FAG 6207 bearing and appropriate double lip oil seal are on the way. Any thoughts on how to proceed with the replacement?

My thoughts are;

1- Remove belts.
2- Remove drive pulley (top).
3- Extract oil seal, internal snap ring and bad Chicomm bearing (in that order).
4- Reverse the process with the new parts.
5- Fill with oil.
6- Begin cutting my 7 acres.
7- When the Chicomm mower breaks again, order Woodmaxx FM-62 flail mower replacement.

Note to self; No more Chicomm crap.

Comments welcome.

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

Now that Flail Master is out of business where id the best place to buy knives for a Mott 60 fine cut flail mower?
Smilinjak

https://qualityfarmsupply.com/product/654-dash-102086
I went to look for some new blades for my flail and found the Flail Master website was still there, but seemed to be inactive. I assumed that they may be a victim of Covid-19, but I have no idea when they ceased operations. I looked around and found Quality Farm Supply in Jonesboro AK. They seem to have a considerably inventory of all kinds of farm machine parts. I just bought 100 of them for my Ford fine cut and they arrived today, less than a week since I ordered them . Not quite the same blade as original but they are the closest and I am sure they will still cut.

 

[K5lwq]

I have a sundown FM 75 flail mower and I have to say it is great, once you get it set right. The setting up takes a bit but once its done the cut is far better than any rotary i have used.

I find that it is way too cumbersome to adjust height by unbolting and bolting the roller mounts. That makes the hydraulic top link a great asset for tipping the flail fore and aft and effectively changing the cutting height. Mine is 7.5 ft cutting width and I find I can cut a field noticeably quicker/faster with it than with my 7ft bush hog. You can just comfortably run faster with it. The flail is great in weeds, tall grass and briers but not for heavier woody stuff. I would not call the flail cut "better" than that of sharp bladed rotary cutter but I'd call it different. The flail gives a more uniform mulched sort of result.

I am running out of room to add a 3rd remote but that is on the table.

However, I do need to tweak the height just a bit. With the roller lowered it is cutting a bit to high. If I shorten the top link, the skids dig in on turns. I am thinking I go back to the top holes and take top link as far as I can to get a higher cut than my first test. I lowered the roller because I adjusted the top link quite a bit but still thought it was to low of cut.

Seems to me that they should have a hole in between the two they have. :confused3:

 

[def38]

I want to ad a hydraulic top link to my tractor, as well. I have a double acting cylinder with check valves but, the rear hydraulics on my M-F are limited. I don't know what I need to accomplish the hydraulic top link. Any one out there have any thoughts?

 

[JWR]

I am running out of room to add a 3rd remote but that is on the table.

However, I do need to tweak the height just a bit. With the roller lowered it is cutting a bit to high. If I shorten the top link, the skids dig in on turns. I am thinking I go back to the top holes and take top link as far as I can to get a higher cut than my first test. I lowered the roller because I adjusted the top link quite a bit but still thought it was to low of cut.

Seems to me that they should have a hole in between the two they have. :confused3:

K5 -- I'm not knowledgeable of the geometry of your flail. My old Alamo SHD88 is offset to the right a couple of feet and otherwise fixed on the 3pt. From the photo yours is more complex. The position of my roller is mid-range among the bolt holes. The roller is far enough back behind the path of the knives at the their lowest point (closest to the ground) that shortening my top link moves the cutting closer the ground while lengthening my top link raises the cutting higher above the ground. Thus the hyd top link is great for adjusting cutting height. Everything is relative to the roller. My skids clear the ground a couple of inches in this configuration and the skids are never really in the picture.