Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,281  
Not that this matters in your discussion, but my supposedly 81 HP MF2660 with 70 at the PTO actually measured 90 hp at the PTO on the dynamometer at the dealer right before delivery. If you read the specs on the Perkins engine in the 3 different HP models (81, 91, 97), bore, stroke, etc. there is no difference, just rated HP. So they may be playing with injection control chips, computer settings, who knows. Anyway some of the "old rules" we all thought we knew do not necessarily apply anymore.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,282  
There's a lot of info there, and I can't say I understand it all. Double edged side slicers?!?!

What would you say is the minimum PTO HP needed for an 8 foot mower in the conditions I described?

Side slicers are a pair of blades that when mounted together represent an upside down "Y". There are variants of the side slicers including scoops and airplane wings. The other option is hammer blades. These are large forged or cast chunks of steel.

Side slicers seem to use less HP than the hammer blades. I have an 88" Alamo on the back of my 57hp machine (see note below) and it doesn't seem to notice the difference between tall and short grass. I usually go slow in the tall grass just to make sure I get a decent cut. The other factor that has a role in HP consumption is whether it's forward or reverse rotating. Forward (same as tire rotation) seems to use less HP as it is spitting out the cuttings as they're being cut. Reverse seems to use more HP as the blades will mulch the grass before it gets left behind, cutting it multiple times.

On the note of HP ratings, my MF 2706e is rated 57HP at the engine, 46HP at the PTO. I had to take it in for warranty work and they did a test on the dynamometer and it is actually 52HP at the PTO. This is a hydrostatic model. I'm guessing the PTO HP rating is with a load on the driveline, not stationary.

If you're going with a larger mower you may have to go slow if you bog down. I would recommend an Alamo because parts are very readily available. SHD88 seems to be the most popular model for the highway crews, at least in this area. Be sure to get a course cut model if you are just mowing to knock it down occasionally. The Ford 917 is also a good unit, but parts are not as readily available (had to replace my roller, but couldn't get one anywhere...). The JD I do not have experience with, but from the flailmaster catalog it seems to be along the lines of the Ford units. Flailmaster.com has everything for an Alamo that you could ever need, minus the main housing. If they offered the housing you could build a mower entirely out of parts from them.

Keep in mind when looking at used units that you may need to replace all the blades and mounting hardware and depending on the mower that can come in at about $300 or so. Also, check the bearings as those are not cheap. Alamo units are very expensive when new, but used you should be able to get one in rough but useable shape for about a grand (needing blades and possibly bearings). In good condition expect to pay upwards of $2500. They are definitely worth it as they are very heavy built units (the SHD88 is about 1,000lbs) and you can get all the parts you need to keep them running for the rest of your life.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,283  
Side slicers are a pair of blades that when mounted together represent an upside down "Y". There are variants of the side slicers including scoops and airplane wings. The other option is hammer blades. These are large forged or cast chunks of steel.

Side slicers seem to use less HP than the hammer blades. I have an 88" Alamo on the back of my 57hp machine (see note below) and it doesn't seem to notice the difference between tall and short grass. I usually go slow in the tall grass just to make sure I get a decent cut. The other factor that has a role in HP consumption is whether it's forward or reverse rotating. Forward (same as tire rotation) seems to use less HP as it is spitting out the cuttings as they're being cut. Reverse seems to use more HP as the blades will mulch the grass before it gets left behind, cutting it multiple times.

On the note of HP ratings, my MF 2706e is rated 57HP at the engine, 46HP at the PTO. I had to take it in for warranty work and they did a test on the dynamometer and it is actually 52HP at the PTO. This is a hydrostatic model. I'm guessing the PTO HP rating is with a load on the driveline, not stationary.

If you're going with a larger mower you may have to go slow if you bog down. I would recommend an Alamo because parts are very readily available. SHD88 seems to be the most popular model for the highway crews, at least in this area. Be sure to get a course cut model if you are just mowing to knock it down occasionally. The Ford 917 is also a good unit, but parts are not as readily available (had to replace my roller, but couldn't get one anywhere...). The JD I do not have experience with, but from the flailmaster catalog it seems to be along the lines of the Ford units. Flailmaster.com has everything for an Alamo that you could ever need, minus the main housing. If they offered the housing you could build a mower entirely out of parts from them.

Keep in mind when looking at used units that you may need to replace all the blades and mounting hardware and depending on the mower that can come in at about $300 or so. Also, check the bearings as those are not cheap. Alamo units are very expensive when new, but used you should be able to get one in rough but useable shape for about a grand (needing blades and possibly bearings). In good condition expect to pay upwards of $2500. They are definitely worth it as they are very heavy built units (the SHD88 is about 1,000lbs) and you can get all the parts you need to keep them running for the rest of your life.

I've found a few Ford units around. I figured parts could be had through New Holland. Maybe that's not the case?

Other than bearings what parts might be hard to find? How hard is it to inspect the bearings ?
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,284  
Which Ford models? 907 and 917 you can get bearings, blades, and minor parts from Flailmaster, but if you need any major parts (roller or rotor) you're kind of out of luck. I've tried to get a roller for my 917 (it was missing upon purchase) and I can't remember if it was way to expensive or just unavailable. 918 I'd imagine would still have support through New Holland as I believe that is the current model. 917 and 907 are forward rotating, I believe 918 is reverse rotating. 917 is more desirable over the 907 in my opinion (heavier duty). If you're looking at a 918 the 918H would be preferable over the 918L in your situation. 917 can be changed from course cut to fine cut to something in-between (airplane wings). Again 907 is probably similar. 918 is one or the other, not interchangeable.

If you are looking at a 917 check that the rail on the rotor that the blades mount to isn't bent or torn up. I think the 907 has a similar mount. The 918 has ears on the rotor to mount the blades.

To check bearings make sure the rotor and roller spin freely and they don't move in a direction they're not supposed to move. Also check gearbox play. There should be a little play in the gears, but any more and it's an indication of an issue. Gearbox failure is rare in flail mowers. Also check belts. They're cheap, but check them anyway. If the body is dented up it's fine, if it has holes in it you'll want to patch them if they're of any decent size. If you can get the seller to spin it up on a tractor it would be good to see the vibration. There should be little or no vibration. A missing blade will cause vibration, but you want to be watching for a bent rotor that would make the unit worthless. A replacement rotor would likely cost as much as the mower.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,285  
Which Ford models? 907 and 917 you can get bearings, blades, and minor parts from Flailmaster, but if you need any major parts (roller or rotor) you're kind of out of luck. I've tried to get a roller for my 917 (it was missing upon purchase) and I can't remember if it was way to expensive or just unavailable. 918 I'd imagine would still have support through New Holland as I believe that is the current model. 917 and 907 are forward rotating, I believe 918 is reverse rotating. 917 is more desirable over the 907 in my opinion (heavier duty). If you're looking at a 918 the 918H would be preferable over the 918L in your situation. 917 can be changed from course cut to fine cut to something in-between (airplane wings). Again 907 is probably similar. 918 is one or the other, not interchangeable.

If you are looking at a 917 check that the rail on the rotor that the blades mount to isn't bent or torn up. I think the 907 has a similar mount. The 918 has ears on the rotor to mount the blades.

To check bearings make sure the rotor and roller spin freely and they don't move in a direction they're not supposed to move. Also check gearbox play. There should be a little play in the gears, but any more and it's an indication of an issue. Gearbox failure is rare in flail mowers. Also check belts. They're cheap, but check them anyway. If the body is dented up it's fine, if it has holes in it you'll want to patch them if they're of any decent size. If you can get the seller to spin it up on a tractor it would be good to see the vibration. There should be little or no vibration. A missing blade will cause vibration, but you want to be watching for a bent rotor that would make the unit worthless. A replacement rotor would likely cost as much as the mower.

This is the only one even remotely near me. It looks really rough though.
8’ Flail Mower - farm & garden - by owner - sale

The others are on tractor house in OH.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,286  
Ouch... That one is ROUGH. I would avoid it. Seeing that the housing is disappearing it will not last much longer.

Patients is needed in finding a used flail mower.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,287  
You can tell that one was driven over a lot of rocks and the flail mower rotor shroud is paper thin form impact damage.


find a used JD25A or 290 on tractorhouse and have them ship it to you.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,289  
Ouch... That one is ROUGH. I would avoid it. Seeing that the housing is disappearing it will not last much longer.

Patients is needed in finding a used flail mower.

Yea I wasn't going near it lol.

These are the few I've seen online.

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/17787127/ford-917

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/33799477/ford-917

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/31250067/mott-88
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,290  
What's shipping cost??
 
 

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