Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

CADplans · May 7, 2017

vvanders said:
We have a Ford 1500(~19hp PTO), would a 5' Caroni be too large for our tractor? Should I opt for the 4' instead? Caroni lists 20-40HP for both.

The Ford 1500 is only 17 PTO HP,,,,

TractorData.com Ford 15 tractor information

The tractor would cut lawn height grass with 5 or 6 foot,,,
but,,,
I would only try 4 foot if you are cuttting hood high grass

IslandTractor · May 7, 2017

vvanders said:
Yeah, this is mostly maintenance, the field is being hayed right now, we just want to be able to keep on top of it once they stop cutting. Any concerns around PTO HP? 19 seems on the low side but I don't have any practical experience with a flail mower so it's hard to gauge what I should be looking at.

I cut similar fields with a five foot rear finish mower with no trouble using a tractor with about 15 pto hp. There may be times cutting very lush spring grass when you need to slow down a bit but otherwise it should be fine especially if you mow regularly.

gregharr55 · May 8, 2017

Hello fellow flail mower owner. I need to ask a question I am sure has been answered but cannot find it.
I cannot seem to get the correct height of mowing. I dont want to kill the grass mowing to low but also don't want mow high enough to leave saplings long enough to easily puncture tires.
What are ur Caroni mower settings pleeeze!
Thanks in advance
Greg

jabroni1m · May 8, 2017

After a month of reading every time I get a chance, I have made it through this thread. Great information for those willing to make it to the end. I need some advice. I have just purchased a Kubota L6060 that hasn't been delivered from the dealer yet. It should be here in the next week. I have about 15 acres of vineyard/blueberry pick your own/pasture to cut with random rocks from the size of softballs to the size of tires, which can be avoided by lifting when needed for the most part. This gets mowed every other week or so depending on weather. This land is in east TN and is fairly hilly with a 15 degree slope on some of it. I have never had an issue or felt tippy with a small Massey or John Deere and the tractor is coming with tires filled and a FEL which I can leave on or remove depending on how it feels with the new tractor. I am wanting a hydraulic offset flail to be able to get closer under the grape vines and blueberry bushes. I called agrisupply about the caroni, but they are estimating mid july now. I can't wait that long as the grass will get out of hand and the 5' rotary cutter just can't get where I need to. I am looking at Betstco Farmer Helper version now as it is in stock. Looking at a few models.
68" Hydraulic Offset 3pt Flail Mower Cat.I 3pt 3hp~65hp (FH-EFGCH175) | eBay
6" Hydraulic Offset 3pt Flail Mower Cat.I 3pt 3hp~65hp (FH-EFGCH155)
77" Hydraulic Offset Rough Terrain 3pt Flail Mower HD~Cat.I/II 35hp+ (EFGCNH195) | eBay
78" Tube Hydraulic Offset Flail Mower HD~Cat.I/II 3pt 35hp+ (EFGCH+195) | eBay

I believe the L6060 won't have any issue with these so is there any reason not to get the largest cut? I am not sure what the difference in the EFGCNH195 and EFGCH195 are. It says one of them is an inch wider than the other, but I doubt that. Which type of blade would work best for rough cutting fields with occassional small saplings? Not really worried about lawn finish cut as it is a farm. I read alot of people mentioning hammer blades doing a great job on the rough stuff and still looking decent on the lawn. Which of these are hammer blades? Thanks for any advice and I can't wait to join the Flail Mower Nation.

gregharr55 · May 8, 2017

I am not qualified to answer that but with the fel u can relieve urself of some of the rocks. They are hard on all mowers. Someone will chime in with some ideas before long. Welcome aboard. I have read every post on every page and still have questions. Good luck
Greg

innrkid · May 8, 2017

jabroni1m said:
After a month of reading every time I get a chance, I have made it through this thread. Great information for those willing to make it to the end. I need some advice. I have just purchased a Kubota L6060 that hasn't been delivered from the dealer yet. It should be here in the next week. I have about 15 acres of vineyard/blueberry pick your own/pasture to cut with random rocks from the size of softballs to the size of tires, which can be avoided by lifting when needed for the most part. This gets mowed every other week or so depending on weather. This land is in east TN and is fairly hilly with a 15 degree slope on some of it. I have never had an issue or felt tippy with a small Massey or John Deere and the tractor is coming with tires filled and a FEL which I can leave on or remove depending on how it feels with the new tractor. I am wanting a hydraulic offset flail to be able to get closer under the grape vines and blueberry bushes. I called agrisupply about the caroni, but they are estimating mid july now. I can't wait that long as the grass will get out of hand and the 5' rotary cutter just can't get where I need to. I am looking at Betstco Farmer Helper version now as it is in stock. Looking at a few models.
68" Hydraulic Offset 3pt Flail Mower Cat.I 3pt 3hp~65hp (FH-EFGCH175) | eBay
6" Hydraulic Offset 3pt Flail Mower Cat.I 3pt 3hp~65hp (FH-EFGCH155)
77" Hydraulic Offset Rough Terrain 3pt Flail Mower HD~Cat.I/II 35hp+ (EFGCNH195) | eBay
78" Tube Hydraulic Offset Flail Mower HD~Cat.I/II 3pt 35hp+ (EFGCH+195) | eBay

I believe the L6060 won't have any issue with these so is there any reason not to get the largest cut? I am not sure what the difference in the EFGCNH195 and EFGCH195 are. It says one of them is an inch wider than the other, but I doubt that. Which type of blade would work best for rough cutting fields with occassional small saplings? Not really worried about lawn finish cut as it is a farm. I read alot of people mentioning hammer blades doing a great job on the rough stuff and still looking decent on the lawn. Which of these are hammer blades? Thanks for any advice and I can't wait to join the Flail Mower Nation.

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There are some experts on here but this is what I have learned. By the way, I have the L6060 grand and a Del Morino mower.

1. In your picture, the lower picture is knives.
2. Have you considered a flipper version? I'm very happy with the extended offset and ability to mow all side gradients.
3. If you go flipper, Make sure you order the right hydraulic valves and I would suggest at least one float for so that the flail floats with the terrain at the pivot point
4. The best advice I can give? Get Leonz and Island tractor (and others on this thread) involved

Good luck. You will love the tractor!

IslandTractor · May 8, 2017

gregharr55 said:
Hello fellow flail mower owner. I need to ask a question I am sure has been answered but cannot find it.
I cannot seem to get the correct height of mowing. I dont want to kill the grass mowing to low but also don't want mow high enough to leave saplings long enough to easily puncture tires.
What are ur Caroni mower settings pleeeze!
Thanks in advance
Greg

There are a number of ways to adjust cut height. I'll try to describe it but it is tough without the mower in front of us.

Key principle is that the rear roller needs to be in contact with the ground when mowing. When initially setting up the mower I believe there are a few different holes to use in the bracket that supports the rear roller. That is a one time adjustment. I wanted to be able to mow brush to dirt so mine is set at the lowest setting. You may choose differently. You can change it but it isn't a simple 2 minute job. Choose a middle setting if you aren't sure.

Next, I would just get the skids out of the way by putting them on the "highest" position so they barely touch the ground when the mower is completely lowered off the 3PT. As far as I am concerned they are just there to protect the mower when dismounted.

That leaves only the 3PT adjustments to go. First set the 3PT arm height. The 3PT arms are obviously adjusted hydraulically from the operator station. I have mine set so that "normal" mowing height is set at 2 on the scale of 10. That gives me the flexibility of making adjustments on the fly. Lower it to zero if I want to "scorch" earth while destroying brush or blackberry etc or I can raise it higher than 2 if I run into a particularly lush dense patch of grass in the spring that slows the mower down. And, I can raise it to 10 when I want to travel with the mower off the ground.

I have the 3PT set at my normal mowing height before adjusting the topping lift. To get an idea of where it will cut when you have the 3PT adjusted to "2" with the rear roller on the ground, shut off the motor, look under the mower from the front and judge how far the blades are hanging down. The distance from the blade to the ground is obviously your cutting height. Once you have the 3PT arms at "2" (or 3, 4 etc to get the flails at roughly correct height) then adjust the topping lift. I put the topping lift pin into the slot on the tower rather than the holes and adjust so the topping lift pin is in the middle of the slot. The topping lift isn't really doing much at all if you are on flat ground but will come into play if you go into a big dip or rise. Once all is adjusted the mower body top should be roughly parallel to the ground front to back i.e. level.

At this point, go for a test mow and see if the cut height suits you. If you want it lower then lower the 3PT, if you want it higher then raise the 3pt. You'll need to readjust the topping lift to keep the mower level and make sure the rear roller is still in contact with the ground.

Ideally you are dragging the mower which has some weight on the 3PT and some on the rear roller at all times. If you raise the 3PT slightly the mower will cut higher and vice versa. The topping lift ideally is just in the middle of the slot except when you raise the mower for transport at which point it serves to hold the rear roller off the ground (the pin will slide to the front of the slot).

It may sound complex but it really is pretty easy to adjust once you understand the geometry and that the rear roller has to be on the ground.

Leonz will correct my mistakes.:thumbsup:

IslandTractor · May 8, 2017

jabroni1m said:
After a month of reading every time I get a chance, I have made it through this thread. Great information for those willing to make it to the end. I need some advice. I have just purchased a Kubota L6060 that hasn't been delivered from the dealer yet. It should be here in the next week. I have about 15 acres of vineyard/blueberry pick your own/pasture to cut with random rocks from the size of softballs to the size of tires, which can be avoided by lifting when needed for the most part. This gets mowed every other week or so depending on weather. This land is in east TN and is fairly hilly with a 15 degree slope on some of it. I have never had an issue or felt tippy with a small Massey or John Deere and the tractor is coming with tires filled and a FEL which I can leave on or remove depending on how it feels with the new tractor. I am wanting a hydraulic offset flail to be able to get closer under the grape vines and blueberry bushes. I called agrisupply about the caroni, but they are estimating mid july now. I can't wait that long as the grass will get out of hand and the 5' rotary cutter just can't get where I need to. I am looking at Betstco Farmer Helper version now as it is in stock. Looking at a few models.
68" Hydraulic Offset 3pt Flail Mower Cat.I 3pt 3hp~65hp (FH-EFGCH175) | eBay
6" Hydraulic Offset 3pt Flail Mower Cat.I 3pt 3hp~65hp (FH-EFGCH155)
77" Hydraulic Offset Rough Terrain 3pt Flail Mower HD~Cat.I/II 35hp+ (EFGCNH195) | eBay
78" Tube Hydraulic Offset Flail Mower HD~Cat.I/II 3pt 35hp+ (EFGCH+195) | eBay

I believe the L6060 won't have any issue with these so is there any reason not to get the largest cut? I am not sure what the difference in the EFGCNH195 and EFGCH195 are. It says one of them is an inch wider than the other, but I doubt that. Which type of blade would work best for rough cutting fields with occassional small saplings? Not really worried about lawn finish cut as it is a farm. I read alot of people mentioning hammer blades doing a great job on the rough stuff and still looking decent on the lawn. Which of these are hammer blades? Thanks for any advice and I can't wait to join the Flail Mower Nation.

View attachment 508853
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The L6060 will easily run a 7ft flail so power is not an issue. Get the biggest one.

gregharr55 · May 8, 2017

Thanks island tractor for ur explanation. Sounds like it is workable. I will set it up as u have urs sort of. I will lower it for saplings and raise it for grass. I have too many rocks to keep it too low a) the time. Many thanks
Greg

whirly · May 8, 2017

jabroni1m said:
After a month of reading every time I get a chance, I have made it through this thread. Great information for those willing to make it to the end. I need some advice. I have just purchased a Kubota L6060 that hasn't been delivered from the dealer yet. It should be here in the next week. I have about 15 acres of vineyard/blueberry pick your own/pasture to cut with random rocks from the size of softballs to the size of tires, which can be avoided by lifting when needed for the most part. This gets mowed every other week or so depending on weather. This land is in east TN and is fairly hilly with a 15 degree slope on some of it. I have never had an issue or felt tippy with a small Massey or John Deere and the tractor is coming with tires filled and a FEL which I can leave on or remove depending on how it feels with the new tractor. I am wanting a hydraulic offset flail to be able to get closer under the grape vines and blueberry bushes. I called agrisupply about the caroni, but they are estimating mid july now. I can't wait that long as the grass will get out of hand and the 5' rotary cutter just can't get where I need to. I am looking at Betstco Farmer Helper version now as it is in stock. Looking at a few models.
68" Hydraulic Offset 3pt Flail Mower Cat.I 3pt 3hp~65hp (FH-EFGCH175) | eBay
6" Hydraulic Offset 3pt Flail Mower Cat.I 3pt 3hp~65hp (FH-EFGCH155)
77" Hydraulic Offset Rough Terrain 3pt Flail Mower HD~Cat.I/II 35hp+ (EFGCNH195) | eBay
78" Tube Hydraulic Offset Flail Mower HD~Cat.I/II 3pt 35hp+ (EFGCH+195) | eBay

I believe the L6060 won't have any issue with these so is there any reason not to get the largest cut? I am not sure what the difference in the EFGCNH195 and EFGCH195 are. It says one of them is an inch wider than the other, but I doubt that. Which type of blade would work best for rough cutting fields with occassional small saplings? Not really worried about lawn finish cut as it is a farm. I read alot of people mentioning hammer blades doing a great job on the rough stuff and still looking decent on the lawn. Which of these are hammer blades? Thanks for any advice and I can't wait to join the Flail Mower Nation.

View attachment 508853
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Yup! Get rid of the large rocks first. Any rock that sticks up more than an inch or two out of the ground should be removed. I had to remove a couple dozen 100-300# boulders from my pastures before I could get them under control and some still work their way to the surface each year.

Hammers work great on pastures and fields. As long as you don't want a finished golf course look, hammers will do a good job. Get the best one for your situation as your L6060 should handle any of your choices. However, I suggest you get one that is at least as wide as your outside rear tires width, i.e. - greater than 72" (180cm). That way when you shift it out it moves out past your tire.

Fallon · May 9, 2017

IslandTractor said:
The L6060 will easily run a 7ft flail so power is not an issue. Get the biggest one.

My L3200 ran my 7' flail fine with 32hp, 25pto. My L4060 runs the same Ford 917 flail fine. My L4060 is the same as your L6060 only with 20hp less, bigger tired & Cat 2 3pt.

My flail puts a burn on my machine at times & I wish for 10 or 20 more HP. But the cost for the extra HP wasn't feasible. So I'm fine going a little slower.

Steave · May 9, 2017

gregharr55 said:
Thanks island tractor for ur explanation. Sounds like it is workable. I will set it up as u have urs sort of. I will lower it for saplings and raise it for grass. I have too many rocks to keep it too low a) the time. Many thanks
Greg

That's some good advice you got from IslandTractor about setting up your mower. I'm going to try the lowering method when in brush or around here it's Hedge. I think the correct name is Chinese Privot I've heard somebody call it. I missed that suggestion or nobody has mentioned it before but sounds like a good idea. I have a rough cut 6' 904 ford for the rougher stuff and a 6' mott finish cut knives on it. The mott won't do much with brush except strip the leaves off and the stem still stands but it sure cuts grass nice and smooth.

jabroni1m · May 9, 2017

The large rocks are the size of boulders. Our dozed couldn't move them. The smaller softball size rocks constantly get uncovered due to the 200 inches of rain a year. That's one of the reasons for mowing so often so you can see the rocks and avoid them.
So is the upper picture considered the hammers?

whirly said:
Yup! Get rid of the large rocks first. Any rock that sticks up more than an inch or two out of the ground should be removed. I had to remove a couple dozen 100-300# boulders from my pastures before I could get them under control and some still work their way to the surface each year.

Hammers work great on pastures and fields. As long as you don't want a finished golf course look, hammers will do a good job. Get the best one for your situation as your L6060 should handle any of your choices. However, I suggest you get one that is at least as wide as your outside rear tires width, i.e. - greater than 72" (180cm). That way when you shift it out it moves out past your tire.

whirly · May 9, 2017

jabroni1m said:
The large rocks are the size of boulders. Our dozed couldn't move them. The smaller softball size rocks constantly get uncovered due to the 200 inches of rain a year. That's one of the reasons for mowing so often so you can see the rocks and avoid them.

So is the upper picture considered the hammers?

I see ... so your large rocks are rooted in Middle Earth. LOL

The upper pic looks like it could be one version of hammers OR they could be duck foot blades. Someone with better eyes might be able to tell the difference. Hammers are heftier than duck foot knives. Smaller hammers weigh close to 1/2#, the larger ones can weigh 3 times that.

whirly · May 9, 2017

You may be able to get a better deal by dealing with them on their web site:

77 Heavy Duty Flail Mower Hydraulic Offset EFGCH195 [FH-EFGCH195] - $2,249. : Betst Products LLC, Rugged Labor Saving Equipment Since 1995

They are tacking on $650 for "free freight" on eBay.

leonz · May 9, 2017

jabroni1m said:
The large rocks are the size of boulders. Our dozed couldn't move them. The smaller softball size rocks constantly get uncovered due to the 200 inches of rain a year. That's one of the reasons for mowing so often so you can see the rocks and avoid them.
So is the upper picture considered the hammers?

============================================================================

Actually they are what are referred to as scoop knives. They are sometimes described as duck foot knives.

Traditional flail hammer knives for orchard and Vineyard use are cast iron with a wet ground cutting edge(if they were made the right way).

leonz · May 9, 2017

jabroni1m said:
The large rocks are the size of boulders. Our dozed couldn't move them. The smaller softball size rocks constantly get uncovered due to the 200 inches of rain a year. That's one of the reasons for mowing so often so you can see the rocks and avoid them.
So is the upper picture considered the hammers?

=========================================================

Yes it is their type of flail hammer knife for their flail mowers:

_________________________________________________________________________

Before you go and spend your hard earned money that will not be back in your pocket:

I would rather see you invest in the boom type flail mower; either a Del Morino, Maschio or Peruzzo.

The reason why is they are more veratile and can be used to mow vertically to keep berry hedges and vine rows in check and even. AND they can be moved side to side quickly as well as mow directly behind the mule you are using.

I will be adding more information in a minute or two.

Iowa Farm Equipment
Iowa Farm Equipment has a wide variety of flail mowers of various types as well as other farm equipment.

- CUMMINGS & BRICKER, INC.

Cummings and Bricker is the eastern US distributor for Del Morino boom flail mowers.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

With your boulder problem it may be best to simply mark them with a 6 foot heavy Tee Fence post and bypass them for now.

Stay with me now; in saying that when you have a large quantity of said boulders identified and marked that is the time to act and remove them.

PLEASE DO NOT YELL:

Hiring a tracked back hoe for a half day or a day to dig them out would benefit you as the boulders as they work very quickly:

1. have been identified and marked with a heavy six foot tee post as a danger.

2. you always know where they are until you have them removed.

3. a tracked backhoe will dig around and pull out the boulder with its thumb attachment.
the boulder could be carried away by you at some other time.
4. the hole can be back filled with bank run gravel or sand.

5. the tee fence posts marking the boulder locations would be pulled when the boulder is
removed and only when it is removed.

6. the Tee Fence posts would be pounded back in the ground to mark the hole unless you are
immediately ready to back fill the hole the boulder removal created.

7. The cost of the hired backhoe and purchase of gravel or sand can be deducted as a
business expense.

If you are running a hobby farm the expense would be hard to deduct unless you have a solid revenue stream from it annually.

I would rather see you invest in an Italian made boom mower for your needs as it will be much more versatile using it especially in vertical mowing for the berry hedges and your grape vines to make the berry hedges more dense and productive.

Please don't yell; I know its your hard earned money. I would like you to examine the boom flail mowers I described and provided links to for you as a boom mower will be of much more use to you and save you time and labor.

DavesTractor · May 9, 2017

jabroni1m said:
The large rocks are the size of boulders. Our dozed couldn't move them. The smaller softball size rocks constantly get uncovered due to the 200 inches of rain a year. That's one of the reasons for mowing so often so you can see the rocks and avoid them.
So is the upper picture considered the hammers?

200 inches of rain? Wow, I had no idea. We get 25" in a normal year.

sodamo · May 9, 2017

Got some mowing in yesterday

powerscol · May 10, 2017

jabroni1m said:
After a month of reading every time I get a chance, I have made it through this thread. Great information for those willing to make it to the end. I need some advice. I have just purchased a Kubota L6060 that hasn't been delivered from the dealer yet. It should be here in the next week. I have about 15 acres of vineyard/blueberry pick your own/pasture to cut with random rocks from the size of softballs to the size of tires, which can be avoided by lifting when needed for the most part. This gets mowed every other week or so depending on weather. This land is in east TN and is fairly hilly with a 15 degree slope on some of it. I have never had an issue or felt tippy with a small Massey or John Deere and the tractor is coming with tires filled and a FEL which I can leave on or remove depending on how it feels with the new tractor. I am wanting a hydraulic offset flail to be able to get closer under the grape vines and blueberry bushes. I called agrisupply about the caroni, but they are estimating mid july now. I can't wait that long as the grass will get out of hand and the 5' rotary cutter just can't get where I need to. I am looking at Betstco Farmer Helper version now as it is in stock. Looking at a few models.
68" Hydraulic Offset 3pt Flail Mower Cat.I 3pt 3hp~65hp (FH-EFGCH175) | eBay
6" Hydraulic Offset 3pt Flail Mower Cat.I 3pt 3hp~65hp (FH-EFGCH155)
77" Hydraulic Offset Rough Terrain 3pt Flail Mower HD~Cat.I/II 35hp+ (EFGCNH195) | eBay
78" Tube Hydraulic Offset Flail Mower HD~Cat.I/II 3pt 35hp+ (EFGCH+195) | eBay

I believe the L6060 won't have any issue with these so is there any reason not to get the largest cut? I am not sure what the difference in the EFGCNH195 and EFGCH195 are. It says one of them is an inch wider than the other, but I doubt that. Which type of blade would work best for rough cutting fields with occassional small saplings? Not really worried about lawn finish cut as it is a farm. I read alot of people mentioning hammer blades doing a great job on the rough stuff and still looking decent on the lawn. Which of these are hammer blades? Thanks for any advice and I can't wait to join the Flail Mower Nation.

View attachment 508853
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Give Iowa Farm Equipment a try. I have the Maschio Garaffetta 160SE on a Bobcat CT 235 and like it more every time I use it. When looking at and offset, please be sure the pivot point is outside of you rear tire. Otherwise you need to ge on the bank to mow the side. Hope the helps.