Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[Thomabear]

Thanks for the info! Gotta appreciate the wealth of knowledge here on TBN.

 

[sloooow]

I'm sure it's in here a bunch of times somewhere, but I'm trying to understand the leveling adjustment process. (From the pictures, it looks like the Caroni will work either way so this may be academic but....)

If you have the kind of flail where you adjust the top link to level the mower, when the front of the tractor starts up a hill (or out of a dip), does the top link take a huge amount of compression and/or bend? Is there some way that this stress is relieved?

My head hurts whenever I try to envision what the constraints are on three-point hitch movement--maybe you just adjust it from the bottom links for rolling terrain and float the top slot. Sorry for the silly questions.

 

[sloooow]

I'm sure it's in here a bunch of times somewhere, but I'm trying to understand the leveling adjustment process. (From the pictures, it looks like the Caroni will work either way so this may be academic but....)

If you have the kind of flail where you adjust the top link to level the mower, when the front of the tractor starts up a hill (or out of a dip), does the top link take a huge amount of compression and/or bend? Is there some way that this stress is relieved?

My head hurts whenever I try to envision what the constraints are on three-point hitch movement--maybe you just adjust it from the bottom links for rolling terrain and float the top slot. Sorry for the silly questions.

 

[GinNB]

When the front of the tractor raises there is pressure put on the flail's roller. Pressure is relieved when the 3pt arms raise because there is no down pressure on the lift arms of most tractors.

 

[Thomabear]

I've always found the mower follows the ground best when adjusting height and leveling with the lift arms and roller then floating the top link in the slot. Actually the top link isn't needed at all until you need to lift the mower.

 

[sloooow]

Thanks guys. We'll see if I can put all of this great information to use in 7-10 days when the truck arrives.

 

[leonz]

I'm sure it's in here a bunch of times somewhere, but I'm trying to understand the leveling adjustment process. (From the pictures, it looks like the Caroni will work either way so this may be academic but....)

If you have the kind of flail where you adjust the top link to level the mower, when the front of the tractor starts up a hill (or out of a dip), does the top link take a huge amount of compression and/or bend? Is there some way that this stress is relieved?

My head hurts whenever I try to envision what the constraints are on three-point hitch movement--maybe you just adjust it from the bottom links for rolling terrain and float the top slot. Sorry for the silly questions.

Dont apologise, if you do not know you have to ask.

The thing is you have be more much much more specific,

WHAT you are referring to directly IS the "angle of attack"
which the prime mover encounters when it begins the climb
from the horizontal.

NOW if the three point hitch is in the float position WHICH IT SHOULD BE ON GOOD TURF

The three point hitch will follow the tractors angle up the slope and the implement
will also follow it until it becomes linear following the tractor.


NOW once again you have the rear roller taking all the abuse


NO YOU DO NOT TOUCH THE BOTTOM LINK ARMS.

Both arms must be the same length AND they have to be the exact length
to allow the Power Take Off Shaft to compress and expand properly.

IS Cargill still running the old Leslie Salt ponds?

 

[sloooow]

IS Cargill still running the old Leslie Salt ponds?

I think that they are still making salt here but they've have sold off a bunch of it to various seashore reclamation projects.

My entry into the flailing nation has been delayed a bit by a shipping hitch. Hopefully it will get ironed out while it's still mowing season and before the fire control guys get all grumpy about weed abatement.

 

[berserker]

I've been following the contagious flail mower thread, and am looking at buying. I haven't exhausted used searches, but haven't found any near me. The hydraulic shift is important to me and I am leaning toward Caroni TM1900. New shipped to me with hydraulic shift is about $4000. I just stumbled across Woodmaxx FM-74H which has free shipping, so ~$2650 delivered (and I presume assembled). I've searched this thread and the forum but haven't been able to find anything about the Woodmaxx flail. Not sure if their price point represents a quality difference or an attempt to enter the market. Thoughts?

Woodmaxx link: FM-74H Hydraulic Offset Flail Mower - WoodMaxx Mowers & Tillers

 

[Gregster613]

Berserker,
I agree; that is a very interesting bit of info on an intriguing flail mower at a very tasty price. Please keep us advised if you decide to purchase. I am curious as to how all turns out. I would like a flail mower also, just short on cash at present. I follow all the threads and the Caroni seems to be a predominant player.
Good hunting, Greg

 

[joemd11]

Hi guys,
Instead of starting a new thread I thought I would just ask my question here. I have a Caroni TM1900 flail and it is time to sharpen the blades. What is the best method to do this? I was thinking of blocking it up and then laying under it with my angle grinder to touch up the blades. Acceptable? Rather not unbolt all those blades.

Thanks,
Joe

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[IslandTractor]

Hi guys,
Instead of starting a new thread I thought I would just ask my question here. I have a Caroni TM1900 flail and it is time to sharpen the blades. What is the best method to do this? I was thinking of blocking it up and then laying under it with my angle grinder to touch up the blades. Acceptable? Rather not unbolt all those blades.

Thanks,
Joe

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

I would get an air ratchet and spanner, remove all the knives (probably 30 minutes, maybe 45). Then I would sharpen on a fixed grinder. When replacing I'd use all new bolts and locknuts.

It would IMO be a nasty nasty nasty (and unsafe) task to try to use a small hand held grinder while simultaneously trying to hold the blade in place while lying under the flail.

There are special grinder tools made just to use on flail mowers while mounted but those are very expensive and for practical purposes only useful in commercial operations.

 

[KRBrouwer]

WoodMaxx quality looks very good, similar to my Caroni TM1900.

Ken

 

[Thomabear]

The Woodmax idler pulley looks really small. The RPM will be screaming so it will likely produce some added heat and wear. Just my personal thinking...

 

[berserker]

The Caroni seems like a safe play, but I'm still thinking about giving the Woodmaxx a try. The idler will be moving at higher RPMs, but it seems like in many applications idlers are smaller diameter than drive pulleys.

I wish there was at least a video of it operating so I could see how it cuts. I would have less apprehension if I knew it would perform like the pictures I've seen Island post of the Caroni. One thing I noticed is that the Woodmaxx knives are bolted directly to the drum, where Caroni has the shackles connecting the knives. Not sure if that matters or if it affects performance. I thought I saw some mention of that somewhere on here once, but can't remember if there was a clear answer.

A benefit to the Woodmaxx is a 2 year warranty and parts ship in 24 hours. I've read where some people have been having trouble obtaining Caroni knives and shackles.

If anyone has actually seen a Woodmaxx perform, I'd love to hear about it.

 

[joemd11]

I would get an air ratchet and spanner, remove all the knives (probably 30 minutes, maybe 45). Then I would sharpen on a fixed grinder. When replacing I'd use all new bolts and locknuts. It would IMO be a nasty nasty nasty (and unsafe) task to try to use a small hand held grinder while simultaneously trying to hold the blade in place while lying under the flail. There are special grinder tools made just to use on flail mowers while mounted but those are very expensive and for practical purposes only useful in commercial operations.

Thanks Island. The more I think about lying there with a power tool while also holding a small and relatively sharp piece of metal doesn't sound like a good idea. Guess I'll be taking all the knives off.

Cheers,
Joe

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[IslandTractor]

The Caroni seems like a safe play, but I'm still thinking about giving the Woodmaxx a try. The idler will be moving at higher RPMs, but it seems like in many applications idlers are smaller diameter than drive pulleys. I wish there was at least a video of it operating so I could see how it cuts. I would have less apprehension if I knew it would perform like the pictures I've seen Island post of the Caroni. One thing I noticed is that the Woodmaxx knives are bolted directly to the drum, where Caroni has the shackles connecting the knives. Not sure if that matters or if it affects performance. I thought I saw some mention of that somewhere on here once, but can't remember if there was a clear answer. A benefit to the Woodmaxx is a 2 year warranty and parts ship in 24 hours. I've read where some people have been having trouble obtaining Caroni knives and shackles. If anyone has actually seen a Woodmaxx perform, I'd love to hear about it.

I know nothing about the Woodmaxx but can clear up a couple of things for you. The knife plus clevis arrangement on the Caroni TM1900 is designed to protect the blades when striking objects thicker than a blade of grass. It allows more movement of the blade. Lateral plus backwards rather than just backwards. The Caroni models designed for pure grass mowing, finish mowers, use a direct to rotor attachment like you describe the Woodmaxx does.

Caroni parts are easily available through AgriSupply. The only hassle I have had is identifying an alternative, cheaper source for the $7 a pop metric clevises. Knives are easily found elsewhere but SAE clevises are too big or too small and I have never found a source other than AgriSupply for those.

 

[berserker]

Thanks Island. With Woodmaxx's direct-bolt blade design, do you think Woodmaxx's duckfoot blades would be better than y blades for small brush? I will be doing both field mowing/driveway mowing and trail maintenance. Here's what Woodmaxx says about its blades:

DUCKFOOT OR REVERSIBLE Y- BLADES. OUR DUCK FOOT BLADES ARE 40CR, ALLOY STRUCTURAL STEEL. (AMERICAN STANDARD, AISI/SAE/ASTM STEEL NO: 5140) AND FORGED TO A TAPERED WEDGE SHAPE TO AVOID MATERIAL BUILDUP ON THE BLADES. CLICK FOR PICTURE. EACH BLADE WEIGHS 1 LB. 15 OZ. (CAST STEEL IS MUCH MORE DURABLE THAN CAST IRON) COMPETITORS USE FLAT FACE BLADES. CLICK FOR PICTURE. SIDE BY SIDE COMPARISON OF WOODMAXX EXCLUSIVE DUCKFOOT DESIGN: PICTURE 1: PICTURE 2: PICTURE 3. THE REVERSIBLE Y- BLADES ARE M.32” 60SI2MN, SPRING STEEL, (AMERICAN STANDARD: A29M) FORMED, HEAT TREATED, AND QUENCHED IN OIL. THEY WEIGH 1LB 7 OZ. FOR THE SET. USE THE DUCKFOOT BLADES FOR CLEARING SAPLINGS, AND THE Y BLADES FOR GRASSES. CLICK FOR PICTURE

 

[RKJeepXJ]

I've also be looking hard at the Woodmaxx with the hydraulic shifting. The price is almost too good to be true. Can't find review from anyone who has actually used one though.

 

[IslandTractor]

Thanks Island. With Woodmaxx's direct-bolt blade design, do you think Woodmaxx's duckfoot blades would be better than y blades for small brush? I will be doing both field mowing/driveway mowing and trail maintenance. Here's what Woodmaxx says about its blades:

DUCKFOOT OR REVERSIBLE Y- BLADES. OUR DUCK FOOT BLADES ARE 40CR, ALLOY STRUCTURAL STEEL. (AMERICAN STANDARD, AISI/SAE/ASTM STEEL NO: 5140) AND FORGED TO A TAPERED WEDGE SHAPE TO AVOID MATERIAL BUILDUP ON THE BLADES. CLICK FOR PICTURE. EACH BLADE WEIGHS 1 LB. 15 OZ. (CAST STEEL IS MUCH MORE DURABLE THAN CAST IRON) COMPETITORS USE FLAT FACE BLADES. CLICK FOR PICTURE. SIDE BY SIDE COMPARISON OF WOODMAXX EXCLUSIVE DUCKFOOT DESIGN: PICTURE 1: PICTURE 2: PICTURE 3. THE REVERSIBLE Y- BLADES ARE M.32” 60SI2MN, SPRING STEEL, (AMERICAN STANDARD: A29M) FORMED, HEAT TREATED, AND QUENCHED IN OIL. THEY WEIGH 1LB 7 OZ. FOR THE SET. USE THE DUCKFOOT BLADES FOR CLEARING SAPLINGS, AND THE Y BLADES FOR GRASSES. CLICK FOR PICTURE

The Y blades, when directly attached to the rotor via bolt are designed more for cutting grass. Small brush (1 year etc) would not be an issue so long as you are not bumping into stumps, rocks etc. The hammers are better for thicker brush.

I've never heard of Woodmaxx before the last day and in checking out their website it is pretty clear (to my wild azz guess anyway) that these are Chinese mowers. Certainly not a well established brand. The design looks fine and as it is probably copied from a major brand is likely fine. The concern I would have is the quality of the steel used in the rotor, the drive components and the hammers. Time will tell, they could all be just fine. Chinese factories produce whatever quality the marketing company (Woodmaxx) pays for. They can make rockets capable of reaching the moon and they can make complete crap. Depends really more on what Woodmaxx specified than anything else.