Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[bruceha2000]

Nah, you don't need no stinking torch or Sawzall, I got mine off with a 1/2" socket wrench and four foot cheater bar! Took only about ten to fifteen minutes and I was very happy doing that job!

Maybe some PB Blaster on the nut a couple of minutes ahead of time could cut the task down a bit. I've found it works really well even on nuts and bolts that have been out in the weather rusting away for a decade.

 

[IslandTractor]

Maybe some PB Blaster on the nut a couple of minutes ahead of time could cut the task down a bit. I've found it works really well even on nuts and bolts that have been out in the weather rusting away for a decade.

Nah. It wasn't rusted at all. The threads on the bolt were all mangled from debris hitting them while mowing so backing the nut off was a challenge the whole way. I probably should have just used a sawzall.

 

[nova3930]

Well, had a friend weld up and reinforce the lift links on my mower. Cut's like a champ now.

My stupid self thinking I know better than the guys that came before me caused other problems though. When I replaced the roller bearings, there were these two "spacers" between the bearing housings and the frame, that looked home built and didn't match anything on the parts list.

"What do I need this things for?" methinks to myself and off in the dumpster they go.

Fast forward to cutting last saturday and I figured out what they were for when the roller departed the mower. Nothing broken, it just seems as if the fit is loose enough to let the roller out without a bit of a spacer. Got some washer to use as a spacer and just need to put everything back to together now.

At least this time I was basically finished mowing when things went south...

 

[leonz]

Is it too late to retrieve the washers without dumpster diving Nova3930???

 

[nova3930]

Is it too late to retrieve the washers without dumpster diving Nova3930???

It was more plates than washers. Looked like somebody took a torch to some 1/8 plate. But no they're long gone unfortunately.

 

[JCByrd24]

Before even using my flail (value leader 48") for the first time I incorporated the chain lift links on both sides of the 3ph to allow the mower to pivot separately behind the tractor. I was thinking about how to modify the mower (many newer flail and finish mowers have pivoting links but the value leader does not) when I saw a previously posted picture of the Mott with chain links, genious. The modified lift links were much easier and cheaper, and can go on and off in under a minute, and can be used with any implement that might benefit from side to side float.

My logic was that both sides were needed to float properly and it appears Mott agreed. After dropping the mower these are almost instantly slack the rest of the time after one dip/bump, meaning they are working. I'm nervous enough about my roller when turning but knowing it's evenly loaded is a little consolation, though on sharp turns I lift it.

 

[JCByrd24]

Before even using my flail (value leader 48") for the first time I incorporated the chain lift links on both sides of the 3ph to allow the mower to pivot separately behind the tractor. I was thinking about how to modify the mower (many newer flail and finish mowers have pivoting links but the value leader does not) when I saw a previously posted picture of the Mott with chain links, genious. The modified lift links were much easier and cheaper, and can go on and off in under a minute, and can be used with any implement that might benefit from side to side float.

My logic was that both sides were needed to float properly and it appears Mott agreed. After dropping the mower these are almost instantly slack the rest of the time after one dip/bump, meaning they are working. I'm nervous enough about my roller when turning but knowing it's evenly loaded is a little consolation, though on sharp turns I lift it.

 

[Reg]

Before even using my flail (value leader 48") for the first time I incorporated the chain lift links on both sides of the 3ph to allow the mower to pivot separately behind the tractor. I was thinking about how to modify the mower (many newer flail and finish mowers have pivoting links but the value leader does not) when I saw a previously posted picture of the Mott with chain links, genious. The modified lift links were much easier and cheaper, and can go on and off in under a minute, and can be used with any implement that might benefit from side to side float.

My logic was that both sides were needed to float properly and it appears Mott agreed. After dropping the mower these are almost instantly slack the rest of the time after one dip/bump, meaning they are working. I'm nervous enough about my roller when turning but knowing it's evenly loaded is a little consolation, though on sharp turns I lift it.

As I recall when I did something very similar I concluded that if the chains are both slack then the top link is the only thing holding the front of the mower "up" - plus the side shoes, but relying on those leads to a lot of ground scars.
Right now I'm not remembering the other drawbacks, but I discarded the chain lifts a few years ago and haven't felt much of a need for them since.

 

[IslandTractor]

Before even using my flail (value leader 48") for the first time I incorporated the chain lift links on both sides of the 3ph to allow the mower to pivot separately behind the tractor. I was thinking about how to modify the mower (many newer flail and finish mowers have pivoting links but the value leader does not) when I saw a previously posted picture of the Mott with chain links, genious. The modified lift links were much easier and cheaper, and can go on and off in under a minute, and can be used with any implement that might benefit from side to side float.

My logic was that both sides were needed to float properly and it appears Mott agreed. After dropping the mower these are almost instantly slack the rest of the time after one dip/bump, meaning they are working. I'm nervous enough about my roller when turning but knowing it's evenly loaded is a little consolation, though on sharp turns I lift it.

How do you back up a flail that is attached with side chains? Does it add extra stress to the topping lift? I'm just not seeing the advantage over letting the 3PT arms down and adjusting the topping lift so the flail "floats" on the rear roller. Has anyone with a modern tractor actually damaged the solid side links while using a flail?

 

[DavesTractor]

Since three-point arms have no down pressure and essentially float anyway, the only advantage I see of a chain type side-link is that the left and right arms become independent of one another. If the tractor is on one plane, the mower could be on another. If a tractor tire drops in a rut the mower will not be compelled to tilt to follow the tractor.

Our ground is flat, so we would see no improvement with the chain links. I set my mower height with the fixed top link and just drop the position control lever all the way down and mow.