Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[Halftrack]

I was mistaken and thought he had an older model of tractor for the flail mowing. Thanks for making the picture clearer as far as the equipment involved.

 

[TurtleCreekFarm]

Not trying to start a pi$$ing contest but I just bothered to look up your L3800 on TractorData and and all models of the L3800 have a "Live PTO" not a "Transmission PTO". That means it has a two stage clutch that allows you to change gears by pushing the clutch pedal down 1/2 way while the PTO continues to spin. Pushing the clutch all the way in and the PTO is disengaged. Therefore if you want to stop just push the clutch in all the way and the mower cannot push you forward.

This link explains the different PTO types:
TractorData.com - Power Take-Off

Thanks for the explanation. I didn't realize the clutch /PTO worked like that. I'll give it a try next time I'm on the tractor. I've always just pushed the clutch all the way down.

 

[Kiotidriver]

My Kioti DK40se has about 33hp at PTO. I run my mower routinely at 2100rpm which is well below PTO of 2500. I wouldn't hesitate for a moment using the TM1900 on a JD4410.

IslandTractor, the RPMs you are mentioning are the engine RPM and not PTO RPM. On my Kioti 30HST, when the engine RPM is set at 2600, the PTO turns either at 540 or 1000 RPM depending how the PTO selector is set to. I'm using the 540 RPM PTO setting to power my newly received Caroni TM1900 (73"). I have no issue running it with my tractor (30HP/PTO 22HP). I like your suggestion to start the mower just above idling RPM, which should be easier on the clutch.
Andre

 

[IslandTractor]

IslandTractor, the RPMs you are mentioning are the engine RPM and not PTO RPM. On my Kioti 30HST, when the engine RPM is set at 2600, the PTO turns either at 540 or 1000 RPM depending how the PTO selector is set to. I'm using the 540 RPM PTO setting to power my newly received Caroni TM1900 (73"). I have no issue running it with my tractor (30HP/PTO 22HP). I like your suggestion to start the mower just above idling RPM, which should be easier on the clutch. Andre

Yes, I have a bad habit of describing engine speed without clarifying what I mean regarding PTO speed. PTO speed is 540rpm when engine speed is about 2500 on my tractor. When I say I run the mower at 2100 what I mean is engine RPM. I know the mower is designed to run at 540rpm from the PTO but I only rarely run mine at that speed. Too noisy and it seems to work just fine with the engine running at only 2100 or so.

 

[Hoochy]

My old JD1010 does not have a live pto so I always engage the pto at just above idle (800 engine rpm's) and I let the clutch fully engage and get the tractor and mower rolling then I slowly increase the rpms to pto speed (about 1800-1900 engine and 500-540 pto, give or take a few) and I try my best to do this before I reach the area that I intend to mow so that everything is up to speed and so far so good. My flail is an Alamo 74 fine cut. I have also lifted the mower and let out the cluth at higher rpms then lower the mower once I am rolling, but I like the other method better. Just MHO.

 

[CobaltSky]

I just ordered the Caroni TM1900. (Not happy about the $500 freight to Colorado, but that is beside the point.) they should have them in stock in a month. Any mods I need to do to it? I'd like to be prepared.

I have read about some having to cut the PTO shaft??? And do I need to modify a fitting to keep it from burping grease?

 

[IslandTractor]

I just ordered the Caroni TM1900. (Not happy about the $500 freight to Colorado, but that is beside the point.) they should have them in stock in a month. Any mods I need to do to it? I'd like to be prepared. I have read about some having to cut the PTO shaft??? And do I need to modify a fitting to keep it from burping grease?

I'd suggest adding the spacer to minimize gearbox oil burping. If you search in this thread I have posted the metric spacer details and source. Only takes 30 seconds and a wrench to install.

For maintenance you just need a grease gun but it would be wise to get a few extra clevises and double that number of blades especially if you mow in rocky soil.

 

[Fallon]

With a Quick Hitch I never worry about having to cut a PTO shaft shorter. I am often worried about it not being long enough though.

Its easy enough to cut the shaft with a hacksaw in 10-15 min (Everything Attachments has a video on it I think). The only reason to do so is if your PTO shaft would bottom out & not collapse shorter. To check clearances, hitch up & raise your 3pt so that the input & output PTO shafts are the same height (also the spot where they are the closest together). Put the PTO shaft near the PTO on the tractor & make sure it is a few inches short when collapsed comparing the locking tab on the PTO shaft to the divot in the stub on the tractor.

 

[LarJea]

The Chinese Y blades that came on my flail mower are far from being sharp. They are 1/4" thick, appear to be forged and taper down to 1/8" more or less at cutting edges. I have seen pictures showing a sharp edge and pictures showing a flat edge. I have read posts that talk about sharpening but none say how sharp. I have already started sharpening the blades so they have a 1/16" cutting edge, does that sound about right? It's a ditch mower so I hit rocks and gravel from time to time.

 

[leonz]

They use a heavy strap iron and simply bend it before doing a rough sharpening job.
the blades will be ok for ditch mowing but I would not want to use them on good sod EVER.
Their mower blade quality is poor.

If I have not done it already, I want to welcome you as the newest member of the "Flail Mower Nations".

 

[EdwardB]

Just acquired a Mott 72 flail mower. The dealer made a few repairs on it prior to purchase. It needed a new male PTO shaft and one pulley was a bit wobbly. They ended up welding it on but said it should outlast the unit.

I do have to replace a roller bearing on the guide roller. I found a thread on a similar unit here:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...ott-flail.html

It looks pretty straightforward and I'm going to do both ends while its apart.

The flails are very worn and dull. I plan on replacing them. However, I have to mow a fallow field that has a fair number of small sumac and bushes. It seems like it might be better to use the old flails on this rough stuff first pass before replacing them. Thoughts on that approach?

 

[KenB2920]

Just acquired a Mott 72 flail mower. The dealer made a few repairs on it prior to purchase. It needed a new male PTO shaft and one pulley was a bit wobbly. They ended up welding it on but said it should outlast the unit. I do have to replace a roller bearing on the guide roller. I found a thread on a similar unit here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...ott-flail.html It looks pretty straightforward and I'm going to do both ends while its apart. The flails are very worn and dull. I plan on replacing them. However, I have to mow a fallow field that has a fair number of small sumac and bushes. It seems like it might be better to use the old flails on this rough stuff first pass before replacing them. Thoughts on that approach?

I like your approach.

I have a Mott 72" and the blades are dull, guide bearing on one side is shot and the body is rusted.

I put a new belt in it and it works fantastic as is where is used it. What's your overall intent with the machine ? I forget the price of the new bearing but I think it's more than the value of my machine, that's why I didn't buy one. I actually see a few used ones around my area for sale daily cheap and so/so condition. I thought about picking one up to have one great Mott but since I have other flails and am currently looking for an 8' it's not worth it to me.

I did try sharpening the blades which is a total time consumer on this model. If it was the heavy duty or cotter pin set up it would be great but bolts on each they can stay dull.

Super machine, cuts fantastic ..... Soooo I'd try yours as is ... Long winded sorry.... Unless your cutting a super lawn.

 

[IslandTractor]

Unless you are finish mowing, blade sharpness isn't critical. I'd not only do the first mowing with the old blades but would also keep using them until you were unhappy with the cut. I never sharpen my blades and they seem to cut just fine in fields for years. Treat flail blades like bush hog blades unless you are after a finish cut.

 

[whirly]

Unless you are finish mowing, blade sharpness isn't critical. I'd not only do the first mowing with the old blades but would also keep using them until you were unhappy with the cut. I never sharpen my blades and they seem to cut just fine in fields for years. Treat flail blades like bush hog blades unless you are after a finish cut.

Ditto

 

[LarJea]

They use a heavy strap iron and simply bend it before doing a rough sharpening job.
the blades will be ok for ditch mowing but I would not want to use them on good sod EVER.
Their mower blade quality is poor.

If I have not done it already, I want to welcome you as the newest member of the "Flail Mower Nations".

Thanks for the welcome. The manufacture of these blades claim they are forged with an RC of 40 to 50 but mainly what I want to know is how sharp they should be.
attached two pictures, before and after.

 

[LarJea]

Thanks IslandTractor and whirly. That's what I needed to know. I thought they cut alright but my wife wasn't as happy with the cut, (to put it mildly)

 

[EdwardB]

Unless you are finish mowing, blade sharpness isn't critical. I'd not only do the first mowing with the old blades but would also keep using them until you were unhappy with the cut. I never sharpen my blades and they seem to cut just fine in fields for years. Treat flail blades like bush hog blades unless you are after a finish cut.

Here are some pictures of the flails. Would you still use them as is, at least for the first cut? There are a few that are missing so I will definitely replace those.

 

[EdwardB]

The idler pulley seems to be out of alignment with the other two. Is this normal? If not, the way to adjust it isn't obvious to me. Thanks for your help.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Looks as if the mount is bent, allowing the tensioner pulley to run sideways a bit.
Actually looking at it closer, the mount for the idler may be mounted wrong. Looks like the upper part may go on the outside of the bearing housing instead of being sandwiched in between.

 

[IslandTractor]

Here are some pictures of the flails. Would you still use them as is, at least for the first cut? There are a few that are missing so I will definitely replace those. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=466051"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=466052"/>

Those are finish blades. Not generally used to knock down brush but if you go slow there's no harm trying.