Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[Code54]

That is interesting Arc Weld, please do post more when you get some time. I also think it is great that Alamo was will to supply some information!

 

[KenB2920]

It's an older model but can you show a picture of how the knives are attached? I'm wondering if someone changed it to nuts and bolts? Mott's take a while to change knives but if you don't use the special cotter pins with a flat side like Whirly posted, it is a royal PIA to keep the pin from turning. The flat sided cotter pins go against the hanger and you bend the long side of the cotter pin out about 30 deg's. Mott used to supply a simple tool for this with a box of knives but a pair of side cutters makes it really easy to do. I'm not sure if your model is the same as the later 72" Heavy Duty model with 2 1/2" cutter shaft but on those you could leave the knives off that are closest to the side plates of the mower so they don't rub on the side plates. You lose maybe a couple inches of cutting width is all.

If I remember, I'll try to tomorrow or in the upcoming days

 

[KenB2920]

Here is my mott

 

[Arc weld]

Ok, I see what you have. You have the optional rough cut ring mounted knives on the smaller dia. cutter shaft. This arrangement wasn't as common as the standard knives arrangement and did use bolts to hold the ring mounts on. I think bolting them tight is to prevent the ring mounts from moving which could cause the rings to come off. Changing all of them would be a PIA. The rings mounts on the larger dia. cuttershaft don't use separate ring mounts. The pin goes through holes in the rings.

 

[KenB2920]

Ok, I see what you have. You have the optional rough cut ring mounted knives on the smaller dia. cutter shaft. This arrangement wasn't as common as the standard knives arrangement and did use bolts to hold the ring mounts on. I think bolting them tight is to prevent the ring mounts from moving which could cause the rings to come off. Changing all of them would be a PIA. The rings mounts on the larger dia. cuttershaft don't use separate ring mounts. The pin goes through holes in the rings.

So this is rough cut? Honestly, when the grass isn't to tall, it give a great finish. So what does the finish blade setup look like

 

[Arc weld]

Rough cut may not have been the best terminology to use. The cutter shaft is already designed as a fine cut with more mounting points. The ring mount knives are better if there's trash or possible rocks you may encounter because the knives can pivot forward and back as well as sideways if an obstacle is encountered. The cutting will be the same as the standard knives though because the spacing is the same. The standard knives use a clevis pin and cotter pin keeper but are longer. Basically the standard knives only pivot forwards and back but are essentially the same length as the ring mount knives on the rings. The cutting portion of the knives is the same.

 

[KenB2920]

Rough cut may not have been the best terminology to use. The cutter shaft is already designed as a fine cut with more mounting points. The ring mount knives are better if there's trash or possible rocks you may encounter because the knives can pivot forward and back as well as sideways if an obstacle is encountered. The cutting will be the same as the standard knives though because the spacing is the same. The standard knives use a clevis pin and cotter pin keeper but are longer. Basically the standard knives only pivot forwards and back but are essentially the same length as the ring mount knives on the rings. The cutting portion of the knives is the same.

Ok, very well stated and that was original assumption ....

 

[KenB2920]

This should be the design your referring to. This would be a breeze and much easier than my bolt set up. The blades are also much more stout than mine. This is a model SH88

 

[KenB2920]

View attachment 441396

This should be the design your referring to. This would be a breeze and much easier than my bolt set up. The blades are also much more stout than mine. This is a model SH88

 

[Arc weld]

The SHD models in your picture show the course cut cutter shaft. They are also available with a fine cut cutter shaft that I believe has optional ring mounts that are similar to yours. The SHD has a 4 1/2" dia. cutter shaft. The standard knives for your flail with 2 3/8" cutter shaft are about 5" long and mount with a clevis pin and cotter pin keeper.

 

[KenB2920]

The SHD models in your picture show the course cut cutter shaft. They are also available with a fine cut cutter shaft that I believe has optional ring mounts that are similar to yours. The SHD has a 4 1/2" dia. cutter shaft. The standard knives for your flail with 2 3/8" cutter shaft are about 5" long and mount with a clevis pin and cotter pin keeper.

Yes, I've seen the long one you're taking about and it's good to know they'll for my flail. Although I won't be buying them I like the knowledge.

The last photo the drum does appear to be 4 1/2" but I can measure it next time I'm by it.

Also, fri what I read, the SH88 is 88" of cutting. I surprised it's not 8'

 

[80sDweeb]

Just got a good old made in USA Used 6 ft flail in for $595. Ken Sweet

So what did you get? And how old is it (approximately)?

 

[80sDweeb]

After buying my Massey Ferguson in early August, expecting it to be available in late August, I was finally able to pick it up today (the seller's new tractor came to him late.) I picked up my Alamo SHD74 from the Highway department a couple weeks ago, and about a week later, finally "unloaded" it from my van (WOW, is this thing heavy!) To unload, I tied a tow strap about 10 feet high in a tree, then hooked it onto the flail, and while my son did his best to "guide" the mower (not much at all) the upward pull of the tow rope helped slide the mower quickly out of the van, and it swung fairly gently to the ground. Whew! I was so relieved when it landed safely!

So with my mower and tractor together at last, I horsed the tractor around enough to get the hitch lined up and connected, and took a shot at clearing the jungle. I had been told by more than one person that this tractor wasn't powerful enough for this flail, so I was wondering how this would work out - would I be happy enough with it, or would I end up selling and getting a brush hog with the proceeds? I plunged headlong into the weeds (some well over my head when I'm on foot) and realized I'd forgotten to lower the mower, so I dropped it down, and went ahead a few seconds and looked back - and was shocked at the clear path that lay behind me! This thing was amazing! After all the struggles I've had doing the same sort of "clearing" with a Cub Cadet 123 garden tractor with oversize 44" deck, and with a John Deere 425AWS with a 48" deck, and a John Deere 48" walk behind "yellow deck" commercial mower, with all the clogging, backing up and taking another push at it I was used to, almost muscling the mower through with force of will (and gallons of sweat), to just drive forward through the dense vegetation and have the machine just chew it up without complaint was a shock. I had a few troubles with some old wood chunks/logs, and some thicker saplings. I did chew through a sapling that was probably 1-1/2 to maybe 2" thick, but it took a moment, made quite a racket, and there were a few sparks seen coming from under the flail, so I may have caused myself some grief. Still, I suppose replacing a few knives once in a while is a fair price to pay for going through such a mess.



And a little while later.



I even found the long-lost Cub Cadet 123, which I failed to locate a few weeks ago (couldn't even get close!) I'm lucky I didn't run right into it!



The tractor is awesome, and because the seller needed it for his harvest work longer than he expected, he ended up replacing the rear tire that still had tread, but was REALLY badly cracked and deteriorating on the sidewalls. Major bonus for waiting! This thing won't win any beauty contests, but to me it's gorgeous!



I've got some inexpensive LED lights I got on Amazon that I hope will do well for me (the YouTube video reviews I saw seemed very promising, they looked brighter than halogen car headlights) that draw 27W each, because when I'm working out in a field, I always push it until the very last glimmer of light, and then I still have to get back to the house. Tonight I did that with a pocket flashlight, and when I came upon a tree with low-hanging branches with thorns, AND a steep ditch nearby, with me a very new tractor operator, things got scary very quickly. I can see the wisdom in wearing leather gloves and a sturdy shirt, like denim, so that a sticker tree doesn't distract me right when I need to be most careful.

I can see that this machine is going to be able to help me do what needs to be done on my land. My wife recently became hopeful that the new tractor would be able to create a path through our 5 acre lot that she can walk the dogs on, and this tractor and flail (and a chainsaw or two) will definitely get it done, and much more. Maybe it won't be a golf course, but everyone knows you have to get a box blade before you can have your own golf course! (Heading to Craigslist to search for box blades...)

Scott in Brighton NY

 

[BoylermanCT]

Scott, I use those 27W LED lights on my tractor, and they are great. I have 2 facing forward and 1 facing rear, and they light up the place like a football game at night. You won't be disappointed.

 

[Code54]

Looks like it did a GREAT job!!! I am currently looking for a similar Motts/Alamo mower for working around the house and am glad to see it worked so well for you.

LED's are great - I have them on both our SxS's and both tractors. The amount of clean white light you get for the electrical draw is nothing short of amazing! I think you will be well pleased with them.

 

[leonz]

Hello Scott,

I am so happy you have your flailmower and it is working well,

You may need to replace the belts and scrape the rubber dust
out from under the V belt guard to expose the grease fittings.

Your excellent example porves once again that you can mow down
heavy brush even with a much smaller flail mower (36"-48") like we did when
we knocked down 12-15 foot golden rod and other brush like ragweed..


I love it when a plan comes together involving flail mowers.

Happy mowing my friend.

 

[Arc weld]

After buying my Massey Ferguson in early August, expecting it to be available in late August, I was finally able to pick it up today (the seller's new tractor came to him late.) I picked up my Alamo SHD74 from the Highway department a couple weeks ago, and about a week later, finally "unloaded" it from my van (WOW, is this thing heavy!) To unload, I tied a tow strap about 10 feet high in a tree, then hooked it onto the flail, and while my son did his best to "guide" the mower (not much at all) the upward pull of the tow rope helped slide the mower quickly out of the van, and it swung fairly gently to the ground. Whew! I was so relieved when it landed safely!

So with my mower and tractor together at last, I horsed the tractor around enough to get the hitch lined up and connected, and took a shot at clearing the jungle. I had been told by more than one person that this tractor wasn't powerful enough for this flail, so I was wondering how this would work out - would I be happy enough with it, or would I end up selling and getting a brush hog with the proceeds? I plunged headlong into the weeds (some well over my head when I'm on foot) and realized I'd forgotten to lower the mower, so I dropped it down, and went ahead a few seconds and looked back - and was shocked at the clear path that lay behind me! This thing was amazing! After all the struggles I've had doing the same sort of "clearing" with a Cub Cadet 123 garden tractor with oversize 44" deck, and with a John Deere 425AWS with a 48" deck, and a John Deere 48" walk behind "yellow deck" commercial mower, with all the clogging, backing up and taking another push at it I was used to, almost muscling the mower through with force of will (and gallons of sweat), to just drive forward through the dense vegetation and have the machine just chew it up without complaint was a shock. I had a few troubles with some old wood chunks/logs, and some thicker saplings. I did chew through a sapling that was probably 1-1/2 to maybe 2" thick, but it took a moment, made quite a racket, and there were a few sparks seen coming from under the flail, so I may have caused myself some grief. Still, I suppose replacing a few knives once in a while is a fair price to pay for going through such a mess.

View attachment 441874

And a little while later.

View attachment 441875

I even found the long-lost Cub Cadet 123, which I failed to locate a few weeks ago (couldn't even get close!) I'm lucky I didn't run right into it!

View attachment 441876

The tractor is awesome, and because the seller needed it for his harvest work longer than he expected, he ended up replacing the rear tire that still had tread, but was REALLY badly cracked and deteriorating on the sidewalls. Major bonus for waiting! This thing won't win any beauty contests, but to me it's gorgeous!

View attachment 441878

I've got some inexpensive LED lights I got on Amazon that I hope will do well for me (the YouTube video reviews I saw seemed very promising, they looked brighter than halogen car headlights) that draw 27W each, because when I'm working out in a field, I always push it until the very last glimmer of light, and then I still have to get back to the house. Tonight I did that with a pocket flashlight, and when I came upon a tree with low-hanging branches with thorns, AND a steep ditch nearby, with me a very new tractor operator, things got scary very quickly. I can see the wisdom in wearing leather gloves and a sturdy shirt, like denim, so that a sticker tree doesn't distract me right when I need to be most careful.

I can see that this machine is going to be able to help me do what needs to be done on my land. My wife recently became hopeful that the new tractor would be able to create a path through our 5 acre lot that she can walk the dogs on, and this tractor and flail (and a chainsaw or two) will definitely get it done, and much more. Maybe it won't be a golf course, but everyone knows you have to get a box blade before you can have your own golf course! (Heading to Craigslist to search for box blades...)

Scott in Brighton NY

That's what I'm talking about! A 135 is a good match for an SHD74. There was company here that had a fleet of SHD74's and MF245's which is basically a newer 135 with about 4 more HP. If you tried that with a 6' bush hog you wouldn't get far. An MF255 would run a SHD88 and a one sided 74 Interstater wing. Now imagine doing that with an Interstater with three 74" flails at the same time. That's similar conditions my dad demo'd the first Interstater in to the city of Edmonton except it was mostly tall grass and weeds. He said give me your worst field. Their jaws dropped! That's how my dad set a sales record for Interstaters. He sold over 40 of the first 100 made. I think it was 46 but not sure on the exact number. The city had no problem recommending them to other municipalities.

 

[sfabern]

I operate a five foot New Holland 918L flail with a 2011 Kubota B3300 (33 engine Hp), I mow a 5 acre field with various pasture grasses. Unfortunately, it does not cut some of the tall (2-3 ft) grasses well, essentially rolling them under and then they pop up. Even a second pass will not always get them. I'm no expert, but I think it is orchard grass, with its tough stem, that is the main culprit. I tried sharpening the knives this past winter (about 200 knives, I think), but no improvement. I am operating the tractor as sufficiently slow speeds in the heavy going, and the mower does not operate under strain at the slow speeds in these heavy patches. So what I am beginning to think is that this mower is just a finishing mower for light grasses and lawns. Am I correct? Is the HP of my Kubota a factor (I wouldn't have thought so for this light flail)?

Is a medium flail the answer? I don't need to cut brush, just pasture grasses. I'd like to get a 73" model and am wondering if the 33 HP is sufficient? I am aware that Caroni makes one that they recommend for 30 to 60 HP, but I don't know if that is the power at the PTO or the engine, and I don't like to have a tractor at the low end of the range. Any ideas about my problem and suggestions for an appropriate flail will be much appreciated.

 

[leonz]

I operate a five foot New Holland 918L flail with a 2011 Kubota B3300 (33 engine Hp).

I mow a 5 acre field with various pasture grasses. Unfortunately, it does not cut some of
the tall (2-3 ft) grasses well, essentially rolling them under and then they pop up.
Even a second pass will not always get them.

I'm no expert, but I think it is orchard grass, with its tough stem, that is the main culprit.

I tried sharpening the knives this past winter (about 200 knives, I think), but no improvement.
I am operating the tractor as sufficiently slow speeds in the heavy going, and the mower does not
operate under strain at the slow speeds in these heavy patches.

So what I am beginning to think is that this mower is just a finishing mower for light grasses and lawns.
am I correct? Is the HP of my Kubota a factor (I wouldn't have thought so for this light flail)?

Is a medium flail the answer? I don't need to cut brush, just pasture grasses.
I'd like to get a 73" model and am wondering if the 33 HP is sufficient?

I am aware that Caroni makes one that they recommend for 30 to 60 HP,
but I don't know if that is the power at the PTO or the engine, and I don't
like to have a tractor at the low end of the range.

Any ideas about my problem and suggestions for an appropriate flail will be much appreciated.

Hello sfabern.

Are you a member of the Flail Mower Nations yet?
I dont keep a roster of our members.

You have a finish flail mower there. I have used my 36 and 48 towed motorised finish flail mowers to mow heavy brush.

I want you to raise the mowing height one hole (lower the roller to increase the mowing height) and try mowing again as you may not be mowing often enough with your mule.

After you do that and look at the results you can always remove two rows of side slicer knives being the 3 oclock and 9 oclock position and then mow with two rows of knives and see how it looks and then decide if you are happy with the results.

The flail mower power ratings by Caroni and others are a general guide for gross horsepower for a mule to run a flail mower.

As long as you are operating the B3300 engine at the rated speed for the rear PTO to maintain the 540 rpm your mower will be fine. you may just have to mow more often AND it will take you much less time to mow I mowed my fathers 6 acres of sod and brush in less than 4 hours some days with a 16 horsepower briggs engine powering the flail mower.

Happy Mowing.

 

[mjstef]

So Leonz, What in the **** am i doing wrong? Running rated speed, Good flails, 3" set height and half the ground speed i would be running with a rotary and the finish looks HORRIBLE!