[KUBOTA B3200] Grader Blade / Box Blade Recommendation for Driveway Maintenance

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

The guy that brings my gravel says he brings about 18,000 lbs and it's probably 13 yards. He runs a 15 yd truck.

 

[Forest_Man]

The guy that brings my gravel says he brings about 18,000 lbs and it's probably 13 yards. He runs a 15 yd truck.

Yeah... I realize I should not stress too much about cubic yards and tons. After a few loads I'll learn if the load seems light or adequate.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[paulsharvey]

So,
1) those numbers clearly aren't right; the weight is anything from a low of 2,410 pounds per CY (1.2 tons) to 2700 lbs per CY (1.35 tons).
2) I'm going to have to mention my ignorance; Freeze Thaw, all advice I have given I based on personal/professional experience in North FLa and South-South Centralish GA. I have Glanced at the Town of Catskill NY Minimum Road Specification, but I'm no expect in snow or ground that freezes.

Their Spec for Roads; blade subgrade and roll with min 8-10 ton roller until "no creeping or weaving appearance ahead of the roller"; then place "gravel base" in 2-5" lifts.

So, for a road, they accept 10" of base material; so what I'm saying is, in Florida; a typical county road would likely spex; 12" of stabalized subgrade LBR40 (this is native soil, with rock or clay mixed in, the LBR40 is basically just a kinda dirty-sand/rock/clay mix; not pure sugar sand); then 6"-10" of Limerock base (LBr100. any clean roadbase should meet that LBR, but not stuff that has sand or over burden mixed in); So; our base thickness is pretty similar. Based on the similar situations, specs, and your low traffic volume; I "think" 4" of this crusher run will be fine on top of a firm subgrade. But what I am saying; specifically pay attention to what other northern/NE people say.

 

[D&D]

I did get a quote by the weight: 15 yards or 2 ton = $375

15 yds = 2 ton
15 yds = 4,000 Lbs
1 yd = 266 Lbs

Something seems off. Either my ton>Lbs conversion (1 ton = 2,000 Lbs) is wrong or this is a very light way cubic yard of crusher run.

I'll call them tomorrow again to clarify this quote.

Hopefully, it’s 15 yds = 20 tons. For basic math, one yard covers ~ a 10’ x 10’ area, 3” thick.
What you had, 8100sq.ft. X 0.25 (3”depth or 1/4 foot)=2025 cu.ft./ 27 = 75 cu yards

 

[D&D]

Arguing with truck drivers on what percentage fill a truck is, of a theoretically cubic capacity is no fun.

If you are worried; a full truck should have a nice center front mound, small front corner holes, and pretty decent "holes" at the back corners. If there is no center mound, above the sideboards, your getting cheated.

Doesn’t that kinda depend on how it was loaded and the road conditions between load and unload points?
Are there any (tandem +) trucks running the roads that can’t tell (show) you what there loaded weight is?

 

[paulsharvey]

Doesn’t that kinda depend on how it was loaded and the road conditions between load and unload points?
Are there any (tandem +) trucks running the roads that can’t tell (show) you what there loaded weight is?

This is normally is issue only with dirt, or debris. A barrow pit isn't going to have scales; storm debris its also a big deal to track cubic yards of debris removal.

Nowadays; many JD-544 class loaders and larger have an electronic scale, that can weigh every bucket load. Sure, not DOT accurate, but when we are talking about $4/ton material for dirt, that's good enough.

 

[nyone]

Once it's dry out there, if the area you need gravel is pretty close to level and the first pictures represent it well, the driver should be able to tailgate the majority. I built about a 450' driveway last year and had 4 loads of SB2 Grade 7 tailgated on it. It ended up being deeper than it needed to be, 3 loads would probably have done it. Tailgating just means the driver will chain the tailgate so it will only open a few inches and drive while its dumping. It ends up about the width of the truck and the depth can be controlled by the speed of the truck within reason. If they do a good job with it, any type of rear blade would be ok.

Around here SB2 Grade 7 is called road base. It's probably 2-3 inch stone with the fines in it. It packs really well and stays put. I built up and crowned my base with shale that I dug on site then topped it with the road base. So far we have had some long, heavy soaking rains and it did not effect the driveway.

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That's a nice driveway. Not having any trees means it gets alot of sun and dries out alot quicker than a tree covered driveway. It does make a prety big difference.

 

[D&D]

This is normally is issue only with dirt, or debris. A barrow pit isn't going to have scales; storm debris its also a big deal to track cubic yards of debris removal.

Nowadays; many JD-544 class loaders and larger have an electronic scale, that can weigh every bucket load. Sure, not DOT accurate, but when we are talking about $4/ton material for dirt, that's good enough.

Yea, not DOT accurate but the air suspension gives a “good estimate” of weight on the truck.

 

[Forest_Man]

Hopefully, it’s 15 yds = 20 tons.

You are absolutely correct. called our local sand&gravel and they clarified the quote: 15 yards @ $375 and approximately 20 tons.

He confirmed they sell by the yard and not by the weight. So my math was off by a factor of 10! Ouch!

 

[paulsharvey]

You are absolutely correct. called our local sand&gravel and they clarified the quote: 15 yards @ $375 and approximately 20 tons.

He confirmed they sell by the yard and not by the weight. So my math was off by a factor of 10! Ouch!

Ok, that's what I assumed. You are lucky, those are great prices for delivered material.

 

[Forest_Man]

So,
1) those numbers clearly aren't right; the weight is anything from a low of 2,410 pounds per CY (1.2 tons) to 2700 lbs per CY (1.35 tons).

My numbers were wrong. You are correct.

2) I'm going to have to mention my ignorance; Freeze Thaw, all advice I have given I based on personal/professional experience in North FLa and South-South Centralish GA.

You've been great, learned a lot already.

Based on the similar situations, specs, and your low traffic volume; I "think" 4" of this crusher run will be fine on top of a firm subgrade. But what I am saying; specifically pay attention to what other northern/NE people say.

I totally understand, it is informational and I need to keep on peeling this onion off.

---

Coming back to equipment, what would you recommend for one single attachment that will allow me to bring a (4) loads of 15 cubic yards of crusher runner and decently, not perfectly, spread along my driveway?

I've been reading a lot about the box blade, rear blade and grading scrapers. I can't figure out which one would be the 1. best bang for the buck, 2. easiest to learn for a first timer.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

 

[paulsharvey]

My numbers were wrong. You are correct.


You've been great, learned a lot already.


I totally understand, it is informational and I need to keep on peeling this onion off.

---

Coming back to equipment, what would you recommend for one single attachment that will allow me to bring a (4) loads of 15 cubic yards of crusher runner and decently, not perfectly, spread along my driveway?

I've been reading a lot about the box blade, rear blade and grading scrapers. I can't figure out which one would be the 1. best bang for the buck, 2. easiest to learn for a first timer.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

For a Single impliment; front end loader on your 4x4 tractor. You can move piles, scatter base, grade, back drag, ect.

To get a nice grade or maintain, I think Box Blade; but as someone mentioned, a rear blade with Guage wheels does about the same thing, and somewhat more, by angling the blade, you can pull material into a windrow, or pull material off the shoulders back into the roadway.

 

[paulsharvey]

There isn't a single magic tool that will make it easy; however there are many that will do the job with practice and patience (and frustration).

 

[paulsharvey]

So best bang for the buck; box blades are cheap and readily available used. They are relatively easy to use effectively, although not quick to master; they can do a lot; I would say they are either the Goldilocks or the 'neither fish nor fowl' of the list

Easiest to use; rear land plane scraper; most expensive probably, and kinda the least versatile

Most versatile; a rear grader blade with tilt, pivot, and slide. Probably hardest to master

 

[Forest_Man]

So best bang for the buck; box blades are cheap and readily available used. They are relatively easy to use effectively, although not quick to master; they can do a lot; I would say they are either the Goldilocks or the 'neither fish nor fowl' of the list

Easiest to use; rear land plane scraper; most expensive probably, and kinda the least versatile

Most versatile; a rear grader blade with tilt, pivot, and slide. Probably hardest to master

Very clear summary. Thank you!

 

[Williy]

Here you can see a land plane or land grader in action

willy

 

[D&D]

There isn't a single magic tool that will make it easy; however there are many that will do the job with practice and patience (and frustration).

Well said. There’s a whole slew of attachments and people are still coming up with something else. Not a single machine that does everything we want.

 

[oosik]

Another point - a heavy rear blade - reversed - can work much like a land plane grading scraper. Obviously not a well but it will do an adequate job.

 

[jyoutz]

Another point - a heavy rear blade - reversed - can work much like a land plane grading scraper. Obviously not a well but it will do an adequate job.

Yep, a heavy rear blade with offset and tilt capability is the most versatile blade. I sold my box blade when I bought my HD rear blade.

 

[deezler]

In my opinion, a multi-adjustable HD rear straight scraper blade is definitely the most versatile and useful, BUT, you really need a bigger, heavier tractor in order to do a lot of work with them. A small, light tractor can't carry and pull the 800+ lb blade that you need in order to cut into firm soil or materials. A generic 250 lb 5 or 6' scraper blade doesn't do much besides smooth out loose materials or plow snow; they just bounce along on anything firm.