Insulating Pole Building (Garage)

[Kyle241]

Just curious for those who live in the Northern areas, how have you insulated your pole building after construction? I'm still building (see http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/185719-new-garage-24x32.html) and will be installing the roof possibly this weekend. I do not plan to insulate right away however prior to installing the siding, has anyone put up Tyvek on their building? I notice many of the pictures nobody is doing this but that is likely due to a different climate and possibly not heating the building. My future plans include pouring a slab, heating (pellet stove) so I am thinking that there will be moisture created between the outside air temp and the heat in the garage.

Currently insulation options include spray foam, cellulose or Roxul.

Tks.
Kyle

 

[tommu56]

I asked my builder for mine and he put tyvek over the purlins before the roofing.

My pole building isn't heated but does have vapor barrier under the concrete in 3 years I haven"t seen any dripping like others have said they have.

I think the vapor barrier under the floor and the concrete help alot

 

[dstig1]

If you plan to insulate and heat it like something that will be occupied often, then build it like a house. That includes good air sealing (housewrap is a big piece of stopping air infiltration), proper flashing of windows, doors and roof penetrations, and insulation suitable for the climate. Spray foam is wonderful stuff but pricey. If you can afford it, you will not be disappointed. With proper air sealing, fiberglass works OK. Cellulose tends to fill out better and I think is a better option, if done right. That is where a lot of the problems with insulation appear - installation /workmanship is more critical than what you use.

Plastic under the concrete, or foam board with seams taped, is a very good idea as it stops upward moisture migration. A good alternative is to insulate under the slab the outer 2-4' and then just plastic inside if you are trying to save money. You get much of the benefit that way. The plastic must be directly under the concrete - nothing between the plastic and concrete or it can the opposite effect and end up trapping moisture in between causing all heck to break loose for moisture problems.

Keeping moisture and air out are the first and biggest two steps to building a weather tight shell. If you get that right, then just about any insulation can do the job.

 

[rimshot]

Just curious for those who live in the Northern areas, how have you insulated your pole building after construction? I'm still building (see http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/185719-new-garage-24x32.html) and will be installing the roof possibly this weekend. I do not plan to insulate right away however prior to installing the siding, has anyone put up Tyvek on their building? I notice many of the pictures nobody is doing this but that is likely due to a different climate and possibly not heating the building. My future plans include pouring a slab, heating (pellet stove) so I am thinking that there will be moisture created between the outside air temp and the heat in the garage.

Currently insulation options include spray foam, cellulose or Roxul.

Tks.
Kyle

A week ago, we completed construction of our pole barn. I live in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan so we poured a concrete floor and made sure to have 4 mil plastic beneath the concrete.

What did we do further to see to it the building did not condensate?
Answer; We used that 1/4" thick 4' X 50' long pack of pink foam stuff known as fanfold styrofoam. it makes for a great looking job especially when it is installed right over the newly erected truss and beneath the steel roof panels. Just take your hammer tacker up and as you finish erecting the truss units tack up the fanfold so it shows neatly from below (within) the building.

rimshot

 

[QRTRHRS]

1/4" bubble wrap with aluminum foil on both sides laid over the roof purlins before you attach the tin. Do this regardless of any other insulation you add. That's my two cents.

 

[rswyan]

We went with sprayed-in cellulose - was probably 1/2 the cost (or less) of spray foam - giving us an R21 insulation value in our 2 x 6 walls.

IIRC it cost us around $1800 to have it done - on a 42' x 72' x 13' high barn (with three 12' x 10' overheads and two mandoors) .... probably not much more than if we had done it ourselves, buying cellulose insulation from Lowes and getting the machine to blow it in .... and I'm sure it was a much better job than I would have done (and we didn't have to do it :thumbsup: )

See my comments in the following thread, 2nd reply down:

Inside walls on pole barn

I did not put Tyvek up on ours - but now wish I had. Almost did at the time they were putting it up ..... but after getting a price from the Cleary sales rep, I decided to pass - price seemed a little high to me at the time. I think 6 mil visqueen would work equally as well and can probably be had cheaper.

At this point I am likely going to drop the wall covering (7/16 OSB) and put up 6 mil visqueen on the inside as a vapor barrier ... but I won't do it until after I have the floor poured next summer.

 

[rbcsaver]

Just curious for those who live in the Northern areas, how have you insulated your pole building after construction? I'm still building (see http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/185719-new-garage-24x32.html) and will be installing the roof possibly this weekend. I do not plan to insulate right away however prior to installing the siding, has anyone put up Tyvek on their building? I notice many of the pictures nobody is doing this but that is likely due to a different climate and possibly not heating the building. My future plans include pouring a slab, heating (pellet stove) so I am thinking that there will be moisture created between the outside air temp and the heat in the garage.
Currently insulation options include spray foam, cellulose or Roxul.
Tks.Kyle

Do yourself a big favor and put foil covered insulation on the roof before you finish the roofing!
Steve

 

[Trails2004]

Spray foam is the only way to go- this will really tighten up the building. I live in northern Wyoming- frequent winds and heavy snow fall are the norm.

2 -3 inches of foam will make a huge difference in your building-

I highly recommend foam- over any other method- cellose- batts- poly bed board etc..


It is worth every cent

 

[Ford tractor]

Before you pour the floor, lay 1" or better yet 2" of insulation under the cement. I didn't to save money and while the air at the thermostat level is 65, water spilt on the ground will freeze instantly during the winter. It's also not comfortable when working on anything that you have to lie down on the ground for.

 

[Kyle241]

Thanks everyone. I will plan to put Tyvek on the outside walls and will look at putting the bubble wrap insulation on the roof prior to installing the galvalume. For the inside, I will price out the spray foam as there is a local guy who does it and will also look at cellulose. I was also planning to put insulation under the floor along with vapour barrier because I know moisture/cold from the slab is always a problem.

 

[Mike Costello]

I insulated my 30X60 shop with 1/4 bubble wrap before the aluminum was installed. We did the roof and all the walls. In addition I also installed insulated overhead garage doors. Temperatures averaged 15-20 degrees warmer inside before heat. Using a kerosene torpedo heater, I can get it comfortable in about 20 minutes. I have no issues with moisture, which can be rough on tools and equipment. I agree, good insulation is everything in a shop. Mike.

 

[PA hayseed]

i used 2nd hand 3" rigid foam panels around my wall, and when I ran out, I used bats of insulation. On the roof I used about 1" rigid foam panels and threw a whole lot of junk and scrap foam/peanuts on that. It isn't a sauna in winter, but a torpedo will heat it up nicely.

My firend had access to tons of styrofoam peantus. He did his roof inside his building with that. You'd be surprised how little heat he uses. I know what people will say, but he didn't pay a penny for that stuff and kept it warm in ther for about 14 years and going.

I agree, sprayfoam is the best.

 

[wedge40]

There is something missing in some of the responses.
How big are the buildings that we are talking about.

30X60X???? 10? 12? 14? 16?
Need to know cubic feet that you are heating.

Wedge

 

[rswyan]

There is something missing in some of the responses.
How big are the buildings that we are talking about.

30X60X???? 10? 12? 14? 16?
Need to know cubic feet that you are heating.

Was mentioned by the OP in his original post where he referred to his other thread about the construction of the building. It's 24' x 32' with a 12' ceiling, with a 12' x 32' second story attic room.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Spray foam is the only way to go- this will really tighten up the building. I live in northern Wyoming- frequent winds and heavy snow fall are the norm.

2 -3 inches of foam will make a huge difference in your building-

I highly recommend foam- over any other method- cellose- batts- poly bed board etc..


It is worth every cent

I agree. My bar was a traditional 52x32 pole barn with 12' tall doors with walls constructed out of 2x4's between the poles then insulated. It was like this when I bought it and a @^$%#%$ mess. I ripped it all out. Found mice, rats, snakes, 2 dead cats, ect. I simply built a 20x20 shop in one corner and had foam applied. No loose insulation or pink fiberglass in a barn or you will have issues sooner or later.

Chris