Hydraulic Top Link?

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks everyone for chiming in, this is just yet another thing I have zero experience in and I'm trying to cram likely years of knowledge and understanding into a short period of time. Pardon me if I am asking newbie questions, I feel like the manufacturer doesn't provide easily accessible information regarding the 3pt and attachments.



I guess I'm not sure if I want to float or not. I am thinking I dont. I plan on using a snowblower, box blade, and I recently ordered a CP572 brush cutter. I think all of these I want to be able to hold it so it doesn't ride up when they meet resistance. But if I remove the ability to float on the 3 point, what am I giving up? maybe using a bush hog would be a little more rough as it wouldn't follow the ground as well?



How did you determine that this was the appropriate one? I am new so maybe I'm missing something but when searching for information on my tractors top link I couldn't find specifics for length etc. The most I found was in the MF4700 product book it stated the tractor was cat 2 with fixed ball ends. I feel like I must not be using the right search terms because this seems like it should be easier to find measurements for the top link. Either way I appreciate the help, depending on if I need float or not I'll likely order this just to have something ready to rock when the tractor comes in.

Is anyone able to comment on the difference between the one mtnview suggested, Fitrite, and Haytools? It seems like fitrite is just one guy? Is he the equivalent to someone custom building violins vs just buying one at guitar center?

I am Fit Rite. I custom build every order that is placed. I have supplied several top links for the 4700 series tractors. I supply a 3" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod typically without the check valve for this series of tractors. It has a working length of
23 1/4"- 35 1/4". You will not find this working length any where else. I assume that you do not want to wait the minimum of 36 weeks to get one of my units, thus I provided what I feel would be the best available off the shelf unit. If you decide that you want to be able to use the float feature of your tractor, simply do not use the check valve that comes with the recommended off the shelf top link.

Here is a link that describes how to determine what length to get for any 3pt hitch application.

Top link

Manufacturers of tractor 3 point hitch top and tilt hydraulic kits, hydraulic top links and hydraulic side links.

fitritehydraulics.com

You do not have your tractor, so pretty much useless for you to use to get a top link and have it ready to go.

You have the information available, use it as you see fit.

 

[MinnesotaMorg]

Yep, one guy named MtnViewRanch

Well I feel a bit sheepish.

I am Fit Rite.

It's nice to actually interact with someone that makes the equipment I am interested in. You're right, I don't want to wait so I'll probably end up getting the one you recommended, and submitting an order for one of yours. I feel like I ran into someone famous hah.

Any chance you can expand on when I would want float vs not? You say most people get your top link with float. Again I plan on primary snowblowing and brush cutting with my 3 point.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Well I feel a bit sheepish.



It's nice to actually interact with someone that makes the equipment I am interested in. You're right, I don't want to wait so I'll probably end up getting the one you recommended, and submitting an order for one of yours. I feel like I ran into someone famous hah.

Any chance you can expand on when I would want float vs not? You say most people get your top link with float. Again I plan on primary snowblowing and brush cutting with my 3 point.

Probably the #1 use for float that I can think of with a top link is for a brush hog. Even though most rough cut mowers have some articulation built into the implement itself, depending on the circumstances that you have, that built in amount of articulation may not be enough. So having a top link adding additional capabilities is often nice to have.

My recommendation would be to get the off the shelf unit that I recommended as well as the hose kit that goes along with it.

Use it as is. Only remove the check valve if that becomes a hindrance.

Good luck

 

[mojoinco]

I do not have the extra remotes for top & tilt. They have been on my list for a very long time. Very slowly collecting the needed parts.

It makes using your tractor very easy.

I am a huge fan of remotes & crying once. The value of buying new makes that easier (maybe not cheaper).

One other thing that may be available for your tractor (I'm not familiar with that model): extendable links for the lift arms. Another device that makes using 3 point tools much easier. Helps a lot when the ground isn't flat and you are changing implements.

Your dealer should be able to discuss this feature with you. It was one of my requirements when I started my search.

To flip back to the remotes. There is a hydraulic switch often called an "a/b" switch (or valve). They are a bit pricey, sometimes so close you may as well buy another remote. Just depends. It switches the device the hydraulic valve controls (usually either a, or b; haven't seen one that has more, but there could be). Not as convenient as 2 remotes. For my tractor you can only have 4 remotes due to the cab. And that includes remotes for the loader. If you needed more these could be the way to go. Or, if you had a 3rd circuit for the front that only got used for say a posthole digger, and you needed a curc6uit for tilt; not much conflict as one would not be used with the other. Etc.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I do not have the extra remotes for top & tilt. They have been on my list for a very long time. Very slowly collecting the needed parts.

It makes using your tractor very easy.

I am a huge fan of remotes & crying once. The value of buying new makes that easier (maybe not cheaper).

One other thing that may be available for your tractor (I'm not familiar with that model): extendable links for the lift arms. Another device that makes using 3 point tools much easier. Helps a lot when the ground isn't flat and you are changing implements.

Your dealer should be able to discuss this feature with you. It was one of my requirements when I started my search.

To flip back to the remotes. There is a hydraulic switch often called an "a/b" switch (or valve). They are a bit pricey, sometimes so close you may as well buy another remote. Just depends. It switches the device the hydraulic valve controls (usually either a, or b; haven't seen one that has more, but there could be). Not as convenient as 2 remotes. For my tractor you can only have 4 remotes due to the cab. And that includes remotes for the loader. If you needed more these could be the way to go. Or, if you had a 3rd circuit for the front that only got used for say a posthole digger, and you needed a curc6uit for tilt; not much conflict as one would not be used with the other. Etc.

Here is a triple diverter. This tractor has a single factory rear remote. (Only 1 rear remote is available from the factory)
4 sets were needed to control all the different hydraulic functions,T&T and offset & angle on rear blade & rake.
If a person goes with a control grip with all the controls in a single point, it is actually more convenient than having 4 separate levers to operate. All 4 functions can be operated and never removing your hand from the main control lever.

There are some companies that only offer the separate rocker switches to control the different valves, but even that can be a good alternative.

 

[tundraman01]

I just got a Mahindra 2655 with a cab. This is my first tractor with a cab and with a rear remote. I am going to get a hydraulic toplink. When attaching an implement, will I have to get in and out of the cab to adjust the top link with the lever or can you pull/push it in and out manually?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I just got a Mahindra 2655 with a cab. This is my first tractor with a cab and with a rear remote. I am going to get a hydraulic toplink. When attaching an implement, will I have to get in and out of the cab to adjust the top link with the lever or can you pull/push it in and out manually?

You will need to use the control lever for the rear remote to adjust the working length to get hitched up.
You get used to where it needs to be to get attached and really is not that big of a deal after you have done it a few times.
If you could simply move the rod in & out by hand, it would basically be a worthless addition, even a hindrance.

 

[Cycledude]

I just got a Mahindra 2655 with a cab. This is my first tractor with a cab and with a rear remote. I am going to get a hydraulic toplink. When attaching an implement, will I have to get in and out of the cab to adjust the top link with the lever or can you pull/push it in and out manually?

Yes you will need to use the lever inside the cab to adjust the top link. But if your tractor is also equipped with a lever outside the cab for raising-lowering the two lower three point arms you can also use that lever carefully to help get the proper distance to be able to hook the top link. At least that’s how I usually wind up doing it.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I just got a Mahindra 2655 with a cab. This is my first tractor with a cab and with a rear remote. I am going to get a hydraulic toplink. When attaching an implement, will I have to get in and out of the cab to adjust the top link with the lever or can you pull/push it in and out manually?

I'm not sure about the Mahindra, but with my Kubota, I can open the side window (not the cab door) and reach the valve levers from outside.

I'm not aware of any top link cylinders with a push pull action.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

I'm 1 day in on my new tractor with hyd top link. I'm already spoiled, it's so awesome to adjust stuff with just a button My frustration factor is down 10x

What length?