How would you fall this?

[bcp]

I would do all the work from the top of the berm. No overhead work. Maybe work from both sides of the trunk depending on pole saw blade size and trunk size. Don't work on a dangerous tree while alone.

1. Clear the top of the berm on both sides of the trunk for a safe work space.

2. Standing on the berm with a powered pole saw, undercut the trunk on one side of the berm, whichever side is most convenient to work.

3. Make a top cut. Nibble at it if needed until the trunk is severed.

4. Continue cleanup process with two less dangerous parts.

Bruce

 

[Lineman North Florida]

Some have already said it I would clear me out a hole down close to the base or berm that it is held or wedged into, at that point I would make a cut from the bottom side about a 1/4 of the way at the most and then cut down from the top and let gravity run it's course , but like someone said earlier know your limitations, if you aren't comfortable get someone else to do it.

 

[4570Man]

I’d use the bushhog to clear the work area back towards the root ball. Once you get to where the trunk is at a safe working height I’d cut it off. Once it falls I’d cut the rest up. Anyone that says start from the top is making the job harder and more dangerous than it needs to be especially in the absence of a bucket truck. The safest way to cut up a tree is on ground and you can put it there with one cut.

 

[Captain Dirty]

lotta energy stored in this mess . . . Clear out a spot on the back of the berm where I have lots of room to escape and work free of obstruction.

Work safe to include having good, clear escape routes.

Don't work on a dangerous tree while alone

Be sure your companion knows to observe from a safe distance and also knows to call for assistance before rushing in to give aid. Both are somewhat contrary to human nature, but proven to be more effective should something go terribly awry.

If you cut the trunk on the berm, I agree that the rootball and stump will likely (but not assuredly) return to upright. Watch the kerf carefully. Greater danger is posed by the top. It may fall and compress limbs storing more energy and then release that energy by rebounding in an unexpected direction. A local tree warden with over 40 years of experience was cutting a limb from a fallen tree. The trunk suddenly rotated, and another limb struck him with sufficient force to break his skull and dislodge an eyeball from its socket. Co-workers said he is lucky to be alive; I am not so sure. You may be able to rig a chain or line "preventer" to stop the top from rebounding in the direction of your escape routes.

As many have said, "If in doubt, hire it out."

 

[ljjhouser]

I wouldn't attach any of my equipment to it. Might not like the outcome. I would also work from top to bottom. Removing limbs until the trunk can be cut. If it starts to rise - then cut trunk near the root ball. But it is easier to cut and safer (and faster) while everything is not "bound" up on the ground supporting all the weight. But if it is too high to be safe put it on the ground as stated above. Take the time and extra steps when needed to be safe.

 

[ericm979]

If you cut this straight down as suggested, it will likely barber-chair. While its likely less dangerous on this mostly horizontal tree than on a near vertical one, it still adds unpredictability to the falling and potentially a more dangerous situation than you have now. You can prevent the barber chair by using a bore cut. The bore cut and a v notch would likely let you cut the strap using a pole saw. If you're not familiar with bore cuts this is probably is not the tree to learn on. Since there's so much force on it the backstrap would have to be thicker than usual. If you want to use a pole saw to cut it, you could bias it towards the side you'll be cutting it from.

If it's possible to nibble away at it from the top, even just part way, that will remove some weight and reduce the forces at the trunk.

 

[Root Cause]

Never thought I would say this but..........bump-fire from 50 yards out.

 

[Diggin It]

One tool only.









Telephone.




.

 

[4570Man]

If you cut this straight down as suggested, it will likely barber-chair. While its likely less dangerous on this mostly horizontal tree than on a near vertical one, it still adds unpredictability to the falling and potentially a more dangerous situation than you have now. You can prevent the barber chair by using a bore cut. The bore cut and a v notch would likely let you cut the strap using a pole saw. If you're not familiar with bore cuts this is probably is not the tree to learn on. Since there's so much force on it the backstrap would have to be thicker than usual. If you want to use a pole saw to cut it, you could bias it towards the side you'll be cutting it from.

If it's possible to nibble away at it from the top, even just part way, that will remove some weight and reduce the forces at the trunk.

A trunk that’s so close to horizontal can’t barber chair. It might split a little bit but it can’t fly backwards on itself.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Make your way to the trunk and cut it from top down, the bottom notch is irrelevant, the stump will most likely sit back on itself. Not very technical as a cut and pretty predictable and safe as long as you stay clear once it go down distance from the trunk to the cut doesn't really matter ether as long as you can safely reach the top of the tree and make a level descent as you are cutting it.

You need the bottom notch. Think of it as a leaning tree. The notch is necessary to control what happens as you cut down for the top.

 

[sea2summit]

What’s “fall” a tree

Lots of ideas in the thread, hard to say which one is right from the picture and description. There is danger but not as much as some posters think, in my opinion.

 

[Rockbadchild]

You need the bottom notch. Think of it as a leaning tree. The notch is necessary to control what happens as you cut down for the top.

painful to watch to say the least … dull chain, looks like a green horn to me … regardless in the case of the video I would’ve done a bottom notch as well … the tree from op is pretty much on the ground already … i wouldn’t do a notch but that’s me, the notch is for giving room for the tree to tilt and for it to tilt in the directions required … a bottom cut to avoid barber chairs sure, seing the base of the tree or seeing it in person might change my perceptions, a notch in the op case is not going to hurt anything i just wouldn’t waist time doing it …

 

[sea2summit]

Is there a safe way to strap a chainsaw to a tree on a pivot so you could pull on a rope from 100' away and cut the trunk without taking a chance on anyone getting hurt? Search "remote tree felling" on youtube. I would think part of the risk would be whether the tree has come to rest or if it's like a spring trap just waiting for some unlucky person to get too close.

We've already had one member escape a close call with a smaller tree. Saved by a steering wheel

Wow. Are you seriously offering that as a solution with no practical experience?

 

[sea2summit]

painful to watch to say the least … dull chain, looks like a green horn to me … regardless in the case of the video I would’ve done a bottom notch as well … the three from op is pretty much on the ground already … i wouldn’t do a notch but that’s me, the notch is for giving room for the tree to tilt and for it to tilt in the detection required … a bottom cut to avoid barber chairs sure, seing the base of the tree or seeing it in person might change my perceptions, a notch in the op case is not going to hurt anything i just wouldn’t waist time doing it …

Guess it all depends on how greedy length wise you want to be and what you want the wood for. Milling it I might notch to make sure a 12-16’ piece fell free without damage. If I was chunking it for removal I’m with you, no notch, probably 4-6’ lengths. Actually just did a job similar with a tornado blowdown, just worked from outside to inside and watched my overhead, tension/compression, had a spotter for like five cuts, and pulled it down once it was free. Obviously no rootball roulette on my job but that doesn’t add a whole lot more excitement if you watch the weight and lean.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Guess it all depends on how greedy length wise you want to be and what you want the wood for. Milling it I might notch to make sure a 12-16’ piece fell free without damage. If I was chunking it for removal I’m with you, no notch, probably 4-6’ lengths. Actually just did a job similar with a tornado blowdown, just worked from outside to inside and watched my overhead, tension/compression, had a spotter for like five cuts, and pulled it down once it was free. Obviously no rootball roulette on my job but that doesn’t add a whole lot more excitement if you watch the weight and lean.
View attachment 749061View attachment 749063

I agree, there is lots at variable like type of tree, dead or no and the list goes on … My dad was a traditional lumberjack, since I am 11 year old I have been using chainsaws I would “borrow” my dad 70cc chainsaw as soon as I manage to pull the cord on it, I barley could lift that thing. I live in the heart of the Boreal forest so I got lots of practice there is no shortage of fallen, leaning or dead tree out here and seem like they are always leaning towards the trail, not much get me exited unless of course it is a dead Aspen with a middle break leaning over itself stuck in a other tree then yeah i think about it once or twice before I do something … But the tree in question here is far from it and it’s not leaning on anything so y’a but like you mentionne having a closer look at the base of the tree would help solidify what we are saying. Operating within your own capabilities is paramount here i am not saying otherwise, but no need for heavy arsenals in this case.

 

[2manyrocks]

Wow. Are you seriously offering that as a solution with no practical experience?

I am not offering any solution. I asked a question.

 

[sea2summit]

I am not offering any solution. I asked a question.

Hmmm, sounded like you said search remote tree felling on YT. Maybe I read it wrong.

Either way, the only thing more dangerous than a saw running in your hands is a saw running not in your hands. Let alone the damage that might happen to the equipment/saw if something doesn’t go according to plan and now your stuck with a damaged tree, damaged saw, and potentially no way to safely approach because you don’t know what happened with the tree. Seems like a really bad idea.

 

[civilian]

I think the only way any of us can give advice is to actually see the tree in person. Without seeing the root ball in regards to the distance of the berm, and the size and weight of the root ball, I would be afraid of it springing back upright. Been there, done that and was shocked to have it happen to me. Wouldn't want to see that on someone else. Especially some asking advice hear based a a single picture. Others may have all kind of experience and would be comfortable cutting that tree, but like other threads about cutting trees, maybe the OP should have an experienced logger/tree service look at it. I hope he doesn't comeback in a week or so with injuries. Just my feelings. Jon

 

[redman135]

2 comments. 1) DON'T cut from the top back. This unloads the root ball and it can catch you by surprise if it moves suddenly. Locally a farmer was cutting up a big old macrocapa tree (blow down) from the top when it dropped back into the root ball hole and threw him. His injuries were fatal. The coroner calculated the butt/rootball weighed 5 ton.

2) Hire a professional to cut the tree, you can finish the job once it is on the ground. Risk minimised.

 

[ArlyA]

As a professional and certified sawyer, we cut (fell) those all the time. Nonetheless, just looking at photos on a tractor forum I won't suggest as to how it should be done. Being there to make the cut makes lots of difference.