How difficult to pull well pump to install a Cycle Stop Valve?

[etpm]

Greetings All,
I recently had my well pump, piping, and wiring replaced. I had intended to buy a Cycle Stop Valve and have it installed when I replaced my pump this coming summer. My pump failed ahead of schedule though. I called the guy who replaced my pump and asked him about pulling the pump he just installed to install the valve. He really doesn't want to do the job but does agree that the Cycle Stop Valve is a good idea. I can call someone else to pull the pump and pipe but am thinking about doing it myself. My well is only 60 feet deep and now has plastic pipe. To install the valve I would need to pull the pipe up about 10 feet, cut and thread the PVC, install the valve, and then lower the whole mess back down the hole. I am pretty sure the pipe is one inch and the valve is 1/14 so I will need reducers. I could glue reducers but I am worried the glue joint may fail. It should not but I am worried I may goof it. I may have the dies to thread the pipe and if I do then that's what I would do. If I don't, then I will need to use glue. Anyway, just how hard would this be? And can I trust glue? I can use the bucket on my tractor to attach a winch or a come along and then pull the stuff up to do the work.
Thanks,
Eric




















i

 

[lman]

I thought they had a model that could be installed above ground before your tank, in my case in the basement.

 

[jimglassford]

I have never heard of a cycle stop valve before so I search the internet. The descriptions I read sound like a device I would not want in my system. However, when it comes to pulling a well pump, I pulled my well pump and replaced it. The pipes were 20 Schedule 80 PVC. My well is 180 feet. I used the loader on a backhoe to pull each section and unthread them. I built clamps out of 2x4s to hold the pipe from dropping back down.

 

[WranglerX]

Above ground makes things a whole lot simpler.... Out here in the west at least in my area we dont use "Cycle Stop Valves" nor pitless connection... Most common control is 40PSI cut in, 60PSI cut out pressure switch.... All controls and such are above casing/well head...

 

[TO_Bud]

The Cycle Stop Valve I installed on my system was just before the the pressure tank in my basement. There was no need to pull the pump and it was pretty easy to install. The valves work by adding back pressure to your pump at a pressure you set so the pressure can't reach the upper limit of the pressure switch. This keeps your pump running while your water is flowing. Well pumps are centrifugal pumps so there is no problem with the back pressure. Makes your shower experience better as the water pressure stays constant. Once you shut off flow the valve stops performing and the pump can continue on to the upper cut off pressure and shut the pump off.

 

[GSVette]

I installed mine in my shop some 150’ from the well.

 

[5030]

Around here we call it a 'Foot valve'...

 

[GSVette]

Around here we call it a 'Foot valve'...

CSV is not a foot valve-completely different animal

 

[robstaples]

I'd recommend the electronic phase converter that slows the pump rather than above that restricts the pump. constant pressure and installed at the pressure switch ( instead of)
Franklin Electric SubDrive

Page Not Found | Franklin Water

Page Not Found

www.franklinwater.com

 

[etpm]

I'd recommend the electronic phase converter that slows the pump rather than above that restricts the pump. constant pressure and installed at the pressure switch ( instead of)
Franklin Electric SubDrive

Page Not Found | Franklin Water

Page Not Found

www.franklinwater.com

Not a chance. I have much experience with VFDs. They are great for some stuff, like the spindle drives in my CNC machines. But way too complex, failure prone, and expensive for a well serving one residence. Besides, I just put a new pump down the hole. Using a VFD would require a 3 phase pump and mine is single phase. And, the CSV also provides constant pressure, doesn't harm the pump or motor, costs less than a hundred bucks, and my well pump supplier and installer says a CSV is a good idea.
Eric

 

[Williy]

Our pump is 265 feet deep and we have a check valve on top
of the pump.
I would never use a foot valve because they go on the inlet side
of the pump and a check valve is on the outlet side.

willy

 

[etpm]

I thought they had a model that could be installed above ground before your tank, in my case in the basement.

Does yours leak a little water? The web site says the model I'm looking at does. I must install mine very close to the well because I have hydrants and the house connected before the pressure tank and switch. In fact, the first hydrant tee is located about 5 feet from the well casing. So the CSV must be near the well casing because it must be located before the first water draw.
Eric

 

[nyone]

I have pulled my 50ft well with sump pump at the bottom many times my self. Although I do have black poly. One day I pulled the pump 3x to diag and replace a bad pump coupler. I used no special tools and did it by my self.

The only issue your going to have is your well has PVC so you will need to make up a tool to clamp and hold each section above the well casing. Or you could pull it all up and not worry if it breaks then just replace it with black poly.

 

[workinonit]

Not a chance. I have much experience with VFDs. They are great for some stuff, like the spindle drives in my CNC machines. But way too complex, failure prone, and expensive for a well serving one residence. Besides, I just put a new pump down the hole. Using a VFD would require a 3 phase pump and mine is single phase. And, the CSV also provides constant pressure, doesn't harm the pump or motor, costs less than a hundred bucks, and my well pump supplier and installer says a CSV is a good idea.
Eric

I don't necessarily agree or disagree with what you say but one thing that I do know is you can get VFDs that work on single phase motors. I have 3 of them.

 

[etpm]

I don't necessarily agree or disagree with what you say but one thing that I do know is you can get VFDs that work on single phase motors. I have 3 of them.

A couple years ago, maybe it was 3 years, I looked for and found only 1 supplier of VFDs made for single phase motors. The single phase motor had to be a particular type though. I think it was the type that did not have a centrifugal starting switch. Is that how your 3 work? What type of and what HP rating are the motors you are running? And how much were the VFDs? The one I found was about 300 bucks for one rated for less than 3/4 HP. I pay about 75 bucks delivered for 3 HP rated VFDs that take 240 volts single phase input and power 3 HP high speed spindles. I have a couple drill presses that would benefit greatly from a variable speed motor. And I have two wonderful old Baldor grinders that have 1725 RPM motors without centrifugal starting switches that I would love to have spinning at 3450 RPM. I still am not gonna use one on my well pump though.
Eric

 

[robstaples]

Not selling anything. Mine works great. Doesn’t require a 3 phase pump, ( no pump change) less than $1000. Constant pressure, soft start, lower energy cost ,
Do more research. Perhaps I should have said Frequency change to induction motor.
On pulling pump, two of us just hand pulled a 120 ft pvc piped well and laid it down on the lawn. Pipe flexed enough, no issues.

 

[GSVette]

Does yours leak a little water? The web site says the model I'm looking at does. I must install mine very close to the well because I have hydrants and the house connected before the pressure tank and switch. In fact, the first hydrant tee is located about 5 feet from the well casing. So the CSV must be near the well casing because it must be located before the first water draw.
Eric

Mine does not leak water in operation ( at least I’ve never seen any on the floor)- you can see the install in the photo I attached

 

[etpm]

Mine does not leak water in operation ( at least I’ve never seen any on the floor)- you can see the install in the photo I attached

Your model is different than the one I'm looking at. I don't need adjustability, I can just order the pressure setting I want. The one you have is three times the price and installs differently.
Thanks,
Eric

 

[Sportsman762]

Pulling wells can be hard, or easy. Depends on what it has for drop pipe, condition of well and and the pitless adapter style. Most drop pipe is 1" for residential wells. Note that Cycle Stop is 1-1/4" female NPT, so you will most likely need a 1" female to 1-1/4" male adapter. If the pitless is not a spool style with the drop pipe centered put the Cycle Stop one length of pipe down or 20', so it does not put side pressure on the pipe or Cycle stop. Plastic already whips around in a well pretty bad.

If it has roll pipe then you can pull it out by hand pretty easy. Just roll it over top of a old rim or something like that to prevent it from kinking. I would cut the drop pipe using a regular wood saw and use brass hose barbs. Double up on full stainless hose clamps when you put it together. Norma, Tridon, Breeze are the best clamps. The key is not to kink the drop pipe.

If the well uses straight plastic PVC drop pipe they will be 20' long and threaded together. I would not trust glue, and plastic is a %^&* to fish out of a well. I would try to unscrew a section and use a close nipple to make it male to male and screw the Cycle stop on. Pulling the well is a pain without the right equipment. You will need something around 24' tall to pull it with ease. If you have a few strong friends you can pull it by hand. However have a way to hold the pipe so it cannot fall down the well. One idea is to use a piece of plywood with a U cut in it the diameter of the pipe and larger than the well . Pull the drop pipe up until you expose a coupler, then slide the plywood under the coupler and set the drop pipe down. Then break the joint on the top, never break joints under the coupler, only break the joint on top of the coupler. We would do this when setting casing, but used thick sheets of steel and called them U-Irons. Normally we used 18" pipe wrenches for 1" drop pipe. Most contractors in the area did not put anything on the PVC pipe threads when screwing them together.

Depending on the type of pitless adapter you have it can be a pain to get them to release. You will most likely need a Pull Pipe which is a piece of 1" that you put down the well and screw to the pitless. If you post a photo down the well I can try to ID the pitless to help. Take the photo in the dark, with a flash light down the well. Makes it easier to see what we are looking at.

I worked for a well contractor for a few years, it was fun work, but hard work. Make sure you do not drop the pump down the well! Our specialty was fishing, and he got paid damn well to fish at 2-3X the cost per hour of service work plastic sucked to fish too.