OP
ptsg
Super Member
I definitely agree. Really surprised on how everything just went nice and smoothly.
Homemade 2 shank subsoiler
- Thread starter ptsg
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Renze
Super Member
Putting the top link at the lowest hole kn the tractor and a high hole on the ripper will cause it to not properly engage: the points will swing forward when you drop it to the ground, so the draft force will push it out of the ground.
Ive also had when the left lift arm rode in the top of the slack in the pins and the right arm in the bottom, tilting the whole implement because that way the top link would run slant, effectively allowing it to move closer to the tractor, tilting over forward. Using the lower top link hole on the ripper solved that.
OP
ptsg
Super Member
It's officially done. All nice and painted, just don't look too close. 
More testing to go, specially with the draft control. Just checked the manual to tune the linkage for deep ground engagement work.
Today, I did use the rototiller on the olive grove, where I did all the sub-soiling work. It was a major improvement as the tiller went deep and everything went a lot smoother.
More testing to go, specially with the draft control. Just checked the manual to tune the linkage for deep ground engagement work.
Today, I did use the rototiller on the olive grove, where I did all the sub-soiling work. It was a major improvement as the tiller went deep and everything went a lot smoother.
K5lwq
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Looks really good! Great job!
OP
ptsg
Super Member
Thanks brother!
hayboy48
Bronze Member
OP
ptsg
Super Member
I imagine the wide tip also requires quite a bit more traction to pull. How deep does it go?
hayboy48
Bronze Member
I think maybe about 24 inches. Really needs a lot of moisture to get deep.
ning
Elite Member
I missed this thread last year!It's officially done. All nice and painted, just don't look too close.
More testing to go, specially with the draft control. Just checked the manual to tune the linkage for deep ground engagement work.
Today, I did use the rototiller on the olive grove, where I did all the sub-soiling work. It was a major improvement as the tiller went deep and everything went a lot smoother.
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Why "400"? This looks like at least a 500.
OP
ptsg
Super Member
Well, that's the max depth it goes. 400 mm.
I've put a good amount of use on it. So far so good. Tractor pulls it very nicely.
jyoutz
Super Star Member
Take a look at the spacing on my implement. It has 9 shanks and is 7’ wide. The shanks can be sunk 17” deep.
OP
ptsg
Super Member
That's a chisel plow, used for a little bit different purpose. At the time, I considered getting one of those instead of building the subsoiler.
Subsoiler also ended up suiting this soil a lot better. A chisel plow would have barely scratched the surface, now that I've seen how the subsoiler behaves.
sixdogs
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That is incredible that you made this and got it right. Very nice.And it's done! Still subject to some minor changes after some testing but it's done. Specially the corner of the shanks. That will most likely come out.
Any bets on how long it will take for the support stand to turn into the 3rd shank?
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rgr33
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Great job planning and fabricating your ripper, wish I had your shop and skills
I have a single shank that I pull with my 33 hp LS, it can pull it at about 16-18 inches, but as you say, I am only interested in in breaking the hard pan down the vineyard rows
I have a single shank that I pull with my 33 hp LS, it can pull it at about 16-18 inches, but as you say, I am only interested in in breaking the hard pan down the vineyard rows
OP
ptsg
Super Member
Thank you.
I've since learned that the subsoiler really makes a big difference. Before, I had to do multiple passes with the tiller to get a decent job. The first couple ones, was a bounce fest with the tiller jumping all over the place in that hard clay.
Now I run the subsoiler a couple times first and the tiller stays planted to the ground and only need to do 2 passes to get a good finish.
I've also noticed a decent jump in how fast the olive trees are evolving over time. They seem to be happier now that the ground isn't rock hard around them and the roots can just do whatever they need to do.
Renze
Super Member
Last year, once the corn was planted, it started raining and it never stopped. Soil was so silted in by all the rain that corn turned purple from oxygen starvation. Some contractors made interrow rippers to bring some oxygen in he soil and save the harvest:
OP
ptsg
Super Member
That's cool and I can say it really helps the crops.
I've really noticed a decent increase on how the olive trees have been evolving after I started using the subsoiler. This clay I work on will get absolutely rock hard. The tiller also has a much better time tilling the ground.
CalG
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Nice fab, and a very nice tool!
I wonder what it might do that a planting of radishes and alfalfa would not.
Such "organic" means have been effective in my area. The benefit is literally TONNES of organic inputs. And you don't need to do more than scratch the soil surface.
I wonder what it might do that a planting of radishes and alfalfa would not.
Such "organic" means have been effective in my area. The benefit is literally TONNES of organic inputs. And you don't need to do more than scratch the soil surface.
Renze
Super Member
When the ground is really hard and water pools frequently, alfalfa drowns before it has a chance to penetrate the ground.
Coming back from visiting family in Canada i investigated growing alfalfa, yet with the amount of rainfall we have in Holland i abandoned the idea. Its too sensitive for high moisture soils.
It would thrive better in Portugal, but still: Cover crops and organic matter are a long term maintenance measure, where ripping is an instant problem solver.
