Homemade 2 shank subsoiler

[oldnslo]

If this is an Olive orchard will there be roots to contend with? Amazing how strong a small root is when anchored in the ground.

As points for power requirements,
In the fall I run a 9 shank disk ripper and in areas where we haul a lot of loads try to get it down 14 - 16 inches deep. Frequently limited by traction. 480 HP 4WD drive estimate weight at 45,000 lbs. Never ever get that deep on first pass.

Neighbor has 5 shank subsoiler on 300 HP FWA tractor and he spins out trying to go 16-18” deep on packed headlands.

 

[ptsg]

If this is an Olive orchard will there be roots to contend with? Amazing how strong a small root is when anchored in the ground.

As points for power requirements,
In the fall I run a 9 shank disk ripper and in areas where we haul a lot of loads try to get it down 14 - 16 inches deep. Frequently limited by traction. 480 HP 4WD drive estimate weight at 45,000 lbs. Never ever get that deep on first pass.

Neighbor has 5 shank subsoiler on 300 HP FWA tractor and he spins out trying to go 16-18” deep on packed headlands.

No roots to worry about. The trees are still very small. I planted them in January.

A little bit hard to see my massive Olive trees, but they're there.

 

[Fixastuff]

Good work so far. Here is my plow and roots!

 

[ptsg]

Got some decent progress made today.

Got the rectangular tubing for the main frame cut and capped the ends. Welded the bars where the A frame will bolt on to. Also got both shanks welded on the frame with most of the gussets as well. May add some more gussets yet.

Next, I'll work on the lower pin brackets and possibly a stand for when it's off the tractor.

 

[K5lwq]

Looking good! Can’t wait to see it in use!

 

[masseyrider]

I doubt you can pull one, much less two in clay. 3/4 thickness is plenty for up to 100 HP. We have big tractors and they are pawing and clawing with a sub soiler sunk 2' in clay, just one shank.

You beat me to it.
I have a single shank subsoiler and when I start putting it deeper I just get too much wheel spin. A double would leave me stationary just spinning my wheels.
My kritter has north of 60hp and double the weight.

 

[ptsg]

As I said before, I don't really need to go full depth.

After all the cuts and angles, my shanks ended up being 520 mm (~20.5") long. My 3 pt arms stop about 120 mm (~4.5") from the ground. So that leaves me about 400 mm (15"-ish) of actual depth.

Will I use the 15"? Probably not. Maybe 10" at most but never really used one so we will see.

Hopefully I can test it sometime this week.

This would probably be a great attachment to go with the 28 HP and 35hp crawlers I used to have.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

You beat me to it.
I have a single shank subsoiler and when I start putting it deeper I just get too much wheel spin. A double would leave me stationary just spinning my wheels.
My kritter has north of 60hp and double the weight.

I'm not trying to rain on his parade, or steal his thunder. I'm just talking from experience, seems you have had the same experience.

 

[fishdoggy]

I think you are doing real good with what you have to work with, I have a single bottom plow I will try to make work pretty soon, same end plan

 

[masseyrider]

I think you are doing real good with what you have to work with, I have a single bottom plow I will try to make work pretty soon, same end plan

My kritter can pull a 3 furrow with the mold boards buried no problem. There's something about the way a ripper engages the soil that just eats hp.
Impressed by the construction though.

 

[ptsg]

Got the lower pin brackets almost complete, just need to weld them in place and add some gussets.

Some more final details and the stand to go. Hopefully by Thursday I can test it but we're expecting some (very welcome) rain. We're in a very severe drought for the last couple of years.

 

[ArlyA]

Just following this interesting thread.

 

[Renze]

As I said before, I don't really need to go full depth.

After all the cuts and angles, my shanks ended up being 520 mm (~20.5") long. My 3 pt arms stop about 120 mm (~4.5") from the ground. So that leaves me about 400 mm (15"-ish) of actual depth.

As a rule of thumb, you need tine spacing roughly equal to the intended working depth. So you'd end up overlapping half passes to break up the full field.

The chisel must have a point edge (beveled upwards) and be at 20 to 30 degree angle, which is the optimum between draft resistance, and weight of the soil being lifted which loads the rear axle for traction. When the leg itself is at equal height as the chisel tip, it wont dig into the soil but slide on the leg.

Your legs are welded properly to the square tube, with that strip of metal extending to the vertical flanges of the tube: Often people forget that theyre concentrating a lot of force on the thin wall of a tube.

 

[ptsg]

This more or less what I'm trying to achieve.

In this case, it's a Landini 2-55 with 50 HP, same weight and size as mine, pulling a 5 shank ripper about 11" to 13" deep.

 

[K5lwq]

This more or less what I'm trying to achieve.

In this case, it's a Landini 2-55 with 50 HP, same weight and size as mine, pulling a 5 shank ripper about 11" to 13" deep.

That is closer to a chisel plow over here. They typically can go 12” or so. Subsoiler is usually pulled 24” deep or so. These pull much harder because you are normally plowing through the hard pan at that depth. If all you want to do is about 15” then I would think your tractor will pull what you built no problem. Especially with draft control. Look forward to seeing it in action!

 

[ptsg]

That is closer to a chisel plow over here. They typically can go 12” or so. Subsoiler is usually pulled 24” deep or so. These pull much harder because you are normally plowing through the hard pan at that depth. If all you want to do is about 15” then I would think your tractor will pull what you built no problem. Especially with draft control. Look forward to seeing it in action!

For the most part, I just want to break that hard layer that the tiller usually leaves. That could probably be achieved by going just 10" or so. On the other hand, I'm curious to see the tractor pulling some good load.

Before the idea of the subsoiler came up, I was checking some chisel plows and was mostly set on one of those. I even have a friend who would let me borrow his but I don't really like borrowing stuff if I can avoid it.

Then I started checking the subsoilers and the materials I had and went for it. If it doesn't work, I think I could sell it and get a 5 shank chisel plow with double springs instead.

 

[K5lwq]

For the most part, I just want to break that hard layer that the tiller usually leaves. That could probably be achieved by going just 10" or so. On the other hand, I'm curious to see the tractor pulling some good load.

Before the idea of the subsoiler came up, I was checking some chisel plows and was mostly set on one of those. I even have a friend who would let me borrow his but I don't really like borrowing stuff if I can avoid it.

Then I started checking the subsoilers and the materials I had and went for it. If it doesn't work, I think I could sell it and get a 5 shank chisel plow with double springs instead.

View attachment 804359

I have thought about a smaller version of a ripper roller. They do an excellent job on the big tractors. That would be fun to play around with.

 

[masseyrider]

Take a good look at the Landini. Four wheel drive is slipping. go deeper and hit hardpan...

 

[ptsg]

Take a good look at the Landini. Four wheel drive is slipping. go deeper and hit hardpan...

I've said several times, I don't need to go deeper.

 

[lcalverson13]

So far I have one shank cut with only one 7" cutting disc. I expect another disc for the bigger cuts on the other shank and for the small pieces, I think I can take care of those on my old power hacksaw.

The ground force is extreme in MI clay. See the picture below.