Hobby Farmer Tractor Lubricants

[sandman2234]

If you are really worried about condensation, put a block heater on it and run it year round.
David from jax

 

[Hay Dude]

One way to check for condensation for 0 cost is next time you change oil, let tractor sit a week. When you crack the oil plug, see if water comes out first (water heavier than oil).

 

[Chris616]

You’re confusing what happens in an engine, where water is produced as a by-product of combustion, with a “mostly” sealed hydraulic system. Getting an engine up to operating temperature to ensure that any moisture that has been produced gets pushed out the exhaust system is a good idea. Being concerned about moisture in the hydraulic system from short run times is unnecessary, because there is no moisture being created there.

 

[HAR]

I may be somewhat ****, in that I change my oil/filter once a year, regardless, and in 22+ years, I have never seen any hint of moisture/water when draining the oil. I also am a believer of getting the engine up to temp, as soon as possible, and always letting it cool down(idle) a few minutes before shutting down, especially if it has been working hard. If the engine/oil is at operating temp, water will vaporize and will be purged through the breather.

 

[rocco611]

Synthetic will not stop condensation in engine oil. I use the least expensive oil that meets the spec of my tractor. Synthetic is a waste of money if you don't need it. Why do you suspect there is a condensation problem? Have you seen evidence of condensation when you changed the oil? Does the drained oil look milky white or light brown? My tractor gets less than a 100hrs a year. I changed the oil every three years, never had a condensation problem. I did send a sample off for oil analysis and found out that diesel fuel was diluting the engine oil from the short trips and idling . Now I change the engine oil every two years , the fuel dilution is now at an acceptable level.

 

[TractorTYMe]

You're overthinking it, if the tractor sits under roof it is even less chance of getting moisture in place where it shouldn't be. I have a 2019 tractor I got in 2020, and I just have 585h on it.

 

[RHiebert]

I am the normal hobby farmer. May only use the tractor once a week but then use it for 3-4 hours. Normal use is 500 hours per year. I am concerned about condensation in the crankcase and the hydraulic system from the heating and cooling. Will the use of synthetic(T5) or simi synthetic motor(T4) and hydraulic oil help negate that problem? The synthetic hydraulic oil it double the price of TS Premium, is it worth the extra expense? Or am I overthinking again?

Synthetic is always worth the price but the quality is key to the maximum benefits. Use your Owner's Manual and what you see in my Independent AMSOIL Dealer URL Amsoil Synthetic Oil in Abbotsford, BC | Rudy Hiebert for the correct products, their benefits and specifications, etc. I've been a hobby farmer as well so I know whereof I speak.

 

[dbritt]

You are worrying about nothing. However, the advice to get it up to normal operating temp when you do start it is good. Sometimes you just need to back it out of the way, and it doesn't make sense to let it run for 10 minutes just for that. I've got a Kubota M9000 that I purchased new in 2003. It's got around 2300 hours on it, so ~100/year, but it works pretty hard when I do use it. I change engine oil and filter on all my tractors and other engines every year, regardless of number of hours since last oil change. I've used nothing but Rotella-T 15w40 in all my diesel engines since 1982. Never had a single engine issue in all those years in any of my engines. The engine in the Ford 3000 in my avatar was completely overhauled in 1982. I started a restoration on it a couple of years ago, and there was so little wear on the cylinder walls that it was not measurable. The main and rod bearings looked almost new. When I pulled the oil pan, there was zero moisture, and in fact, everything in the crankcase still had a film of oil on it from the last time it ran in 2006. Rotella-T is great stuff. I gave it a valve job since the head was off, and that was it. That tractor worked hard on my farm until the radiator died and I parked it in 2006. It sat untouched, unmoved and unstarted for 16 years before starting the restoration in 2022. Last week I got everthing on the engine back together enough to start it. It started and ran for the first time since 2006. IMO, condensation in the crankcase is the least of your worries. Good oil, changed along with the filter at proper intervals is the key. Moisture, if it's there at all, will take care of itself. After sitting for 16 years, there was absolutely nothing in the crankcase except the oil from the last oil change in 2006. Worry instead about doing proper maintenance.

 

[Bobrown14]

OK, Does 200 hours per year make any difference from 500 hrs per year. Sounds like worrying about condensation is over thinking. So T4 and TS premium hyd oil is fine?

Use the type of oil recommended in out manual. I change my engine oil 2x a year no matter the hours, spring and fall. I use my tractor about 200 hrs a year in all weather conditions except mud. Use the hydraulic oil recommended in the manual and change it according to the hrs in the manual. Clean your radiator screen before every use and check and blow out your air filter as needed. Use good quality diesel dont by from a podunk station, get the best you can find.

 

[eco88]

I used get condensation in my hydraulic lines in the winter with extremely cold temperatures, even with the winter rated oil. Blew out parts and orings in the past because of the ice build up in the lines.
Was told to add some diesel conditioner (couple of cups) into the hydraulic oil to help with the moisture issues.
Ever since, I haven't had any issues with lines freezing up anymore, which tells me less water in the system now.