Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question

   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #21  
IMHO, having used a rented 3320 and now owning a 4120 - the 4120 has a fair amount more capability in loader use (dirt moving, etc.). Although if that use is only minimal and mowing in a multi-acre yard-type setting will be the primary in the future - the 3320 may be the better long term unit. Hope you find a machine you're happy with - on the first try.
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #22  
Well I didn't jump quick enough on the 4120 as it sold yesterday. Looking at getting a JD 3320 but will compare and test drive the NH 2035, MF 1533 and Mahindra 3316 before I pull the trigger.

Hmmmm...........

Let me try to clear this up..............Quit wasting your time and GET THE 4120.

At that price, I'm not surprised!
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #23  
Well I didn't jump quick enough on the 4120 as it sold yesterday. Looking at getting a JD 3320 but will compare and test drive the NH 2035, MF 1533 and Mahindra 3316 before I pull the trigger.

While you are comparing, stop at Coker tractor in Arab. I know you will get a better deal than TriGreen. JC
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #24  
You can set the tires narrower
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #25  
Personally, I think the 4120 is too much tractor for the land you have. I just bought a 3038E for my 106 acres for bushhogging and it seems to have plenty of power. The shakiness you mention was true for mine--with all tires grossly overinflated from the dealer. With more reasonable pressures it rides well. The mechanical hydrostatic drive is noiser than my mom's 3320 at low rpms, but at 2000 rpm and above, it disappears into the engine noise.
These E series tractors really are compelling values.
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I need to locate a 3320 and 3038E at the same location to test drive as I'm liking the price of the 3038E. As it stands right now I have the following prices so far: (FEL, hydro, R4)

JD My 1st choice tractor
4120 - $26,750
3320 - $21,320
3038E - $16,400

NH Don't think they really want to sell a tractor.
3040 - $23,000ish
2035 - $23,800

MF Still waiting for a quote.
1533

Mahindra Had to look
3316 - $19,495

Now you might have noticed that Kubota is not on my list, well to be honest I can't get my brain pass the color. I know it's a good tractor but hey we all have our quirks.

Given what I need a tractor for I think the 3038E would fit my needs very well and that $16,400 price is attractive.
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #27  
We originally looking at the 3038e the dealer had in stock, the also had the 4320 cab. We really like the 3038e for the size, but I'm very glad I got the 4320. The 4320 has some trouble with the oaks I'm pulling now, so I'm pretty sure the 3038e would not have been able to pull them. The 4320 turns amazing well, mow right around everything on the property.
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #28  
Personally, I think the 4120 is too much tractor for the land you have.

That might be the case, depending on who you talk to and how you feel. I personally dont think there is such a thing as "too much tractor". The problem is usally "not enough wallet".
I know its water under the bridge now, but at the price quoted, it was a free upgrade.
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #29  
Dave,
I must respectfully disagree. It seems to me the proper approach to buying a tractor is to determine what implements one needs to do the work at hand, and then maximize the solution by buying the minimum tractor necessary to power those attachments. Yet, the focus of many posts on this website is often on the tractor, not the implements needed.

In my case, a 6 foot bushhog seemed ideal for my land and its hill and declines, and the 3032E/3038E seemed the most efficient solution, particularly the latter tractor with its power reserve.

I would urge the gentleman from Alabama to think carefully about what implements he really needs for 7 acres, and buy the tractor accordingly--no matter what enticing deal may be available at the dealership for a 4000, 5000, or 6000 series tractor.
Tim
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #30  
Dave,
I must respectfully disagree. It seems to me the proper approach to buying a tractor is to determine what implements one needs to do the work at hand, and then maximize the solution by buying the minimum tractor necessary to power those attachments. Tim


Hey, no prob Tim... Chicken -> Egg, or Egg -> Chicken, at least we're talking about tasty critters either way :laughing:

I see it as you buy the implements to match the tractor you have. We been hashing this out on the Cab vs No cab thread :D I've got a 3520 Cab on a hair over 2 acres. And truthfully, if I woulda had the opportunity to get into a demo 4x20 Cab machine for relatively few bucks more like this deal, you can bet I would have a 4x20 Cab. I woulda pulled the trigger within the hour. Its not totally out of the question either, I'm designing my new garage build to have at least 1 9' door so I can get a 4x20 cab machine in there no prob. Absouletly no plans to upgrade because I have zero complaints with my 3520.

When my dad bought his L2900, he thought "this is alot of tractor, I'll never need more"...and in time you soon learn to outgrow it. If he were to replace it tomorrow it would probably be with one from the top end (40+hp) of the Grand L series.

My advice is still "Buy the largest tractor you can comfortably afford".

Yet, the focus of many posts on this website is often on the tractor, not the implements needed.

This is true...I say thats because its relatively easy & cheap to buy/swap/sell attachments. Some people buy a landscape rake to put in a lawn and then sell it when the job is done 6 months later. Whereas buying a tractor is a long term deal. Not unusual to see items on Craislist saying "selling because its too big/small for my tractor".
With all due respcect, Using your sizing method, you'd buy all your attachments, and then buy a tractor to drive those attachments. If you found the tractor you bought was too small to run your 6' implements, would you sell your tractor and buy a bigger one or would you sell the 6' Rear blade and buy 5 footer?
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question
  • Thread Starter
#31  
For what it's worth I'm waiting on the "official job offer" paperwork that will relocate me from JAX FL to Huntsville AL and into a new tractor. Had I had that in hand last Wed I would have owned that 4120 for $22.5K

As for future implements I see myself needing a 4'-5' BB, 6' Land Plane, 6' landscape rake, 5' bush hog, 6' finish mower just to name a few. The BB and bush hog I have covered from dad.

I see the next 6-9 months being mostly getting a driveway in (outsoruce) and lot and lots of clean up of undergrowth, fallen trees, and general upkeep (bush hogging).
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #32  
Good discussion on this topic, as usual on the Deere pages.

Dennis, I would look at Deere's implements PDF where they list the recommended tractors for the various implements you have listed and find "the least common denominator." I think you'll find for your implement list that you sho' don't need to spend 22.5K to buy a tractor to work those implements.

In fact, the 3032E would cover your list, and I just got a price quote of $12900 here in Mississippi for the 25 PTO HP 3032E plus hoodguard, plus weight bracket extension plus TEN 70# front end weights, plus 100# rear wheel weights each side. I doubt you'd need all the weights I need for a 6' hog so it could be even a little cheaper than that. For comparison purposes, the 30 PTO HP 3038E I just bought was $13,500 before tax for it, hoodguard, frontweight bracket and EIGHT 70#suitcase weights. I choose to do without the rear wheel weights.

Tim
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #33  
I think you'll find for your implement list that you sho' don't need to spend 22.5K to buy a tractor to work those implements.

Tim, Before I could reccomend a 3032 or 3038 (Both great machines, my reasoning will unfold below), I think I'd suggest heading on over to the Bobcat side. I dont think 13k will buy more tractor then what you'll get with a Bobcat CT230. I've driven my brothers...my only complaint is the Treddle pedal. I'm just a fan of the 2 pedal JD Design.

Bang for the buck, I dont think you can beat the Bobcat offers currently.
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #34  
I dont think 13k will buy more tractor then what you'll get with a Bobcat CT230. I've driven my brothers...my only complaint is the Treddle pedal. I'm just a fan of the 2 pedal JD Design.

Bang for the buck, I dont think you can beat the Bobcat offers currently.

Bobcat have anything in the 60hp range..?

I'm lookin' around!

AKfish
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #36  
Good discussion on this topic, as usual on the Deere pages.

Dennis, I would look at Deere's implements PDF where they list the recommended tractors for the various implements you have listed and find "the least common denominator." I think you'll find for your implement list that you sho' don't need to spend 22.5K to buy a tractor to work those implements.

In fact, the 3032E would cover your list, and I just got a price quote of $12900 here in Mississippi for the 25 PTO HP 3032E plus hoodguard, plus weight bracket extension plus TEN 70# front end weights, plus 100# rear wheel weights each side. I doubt you'd need all the weights I need for a 6' hog so it could be even a little cheaper than that. For comparison purposes, the 30 PTO HP 3038E I just bought was $13,500 before tax for it, hoodguard, frontweight bracket and EIGHT 70#suitcase weights. I choose to do without the rear wheel weights.

Tim

Lets see.....we're talking about taking a 2175lb. machine and making it a 3075lb. machine....@ 31.4hp in order to get it to do the things it needs to do as opposed to taking a 3700lb machine @ 43hp to do the same work......hmmm. I guess it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out which one will do the job with less strain to the equipment huh?
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #37  
For what it's worth I'm waiting on the "official job offer" paperwork that will relocate me from JAX FL to Huntsville AL and into a new tractor. Had I had that in hand last Wed I would have owned that 4120 for $22.5K

As for future implements I see myself needing a 4'-5' BB, 6' Land Plane, 6' landscape rake, 5' bush hog, 6' finish mower just to name a few. The BB and bush hog I have covered from dad.

I see the next 6-9 months being mostly getting a driveway in (outsoruce) and lot and lots of clean up of undergrowth, fallen trees, and general upkeep (bush hogging).

If you stick with the 3320 series machine, you will probably want a minimum of a 5' BB, (my 6' is fine behind the 3320), the land plane @ 6' will be a little narrow behind the 3320 only in turns; the 5' bush hog will just cover the width of the tractor with R-4's, the 6' finish mower won't be a problem for the 3320 either, I also opted to purchase a 6' bucket to accompany the 5' one for the 300CX FEL and it handles it with ease. Just remember, if you step up to the 4120, you should be looking at implements 1' wider, as the 4120 has a wider stance. Any time you can have more HP to perform the same tasks, the higher HP machine will not work as hard!
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question
  • Thread Starter
#38  
I have a deal pending with Coker Tractor in Arab AL for a 3320.

3320
eHydro
300CX
upgraded FEL bucket
R4 tires (larger size)
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #39  
Nitro Fish,
If you compare the weight/hp ratios of the 3032E and 4120 tractors, bare or loaded, you see that the ratio is either more favorable for the 3032E (unloaded) or about the same (loaded) between the two tractors depending on the attachments chosen. And if you compare the ballast needed for the RC2072 I just bought for the 3038E with weight of driver and hog compared to the equivalent numbers for the 4120, it is clear the 3038E moves less weight per hp. By your logic, my 3038E would have LESS drivetrain strain than the 4120 if loaded with similar equipment.

Perhaps you are really making an argument about axle capacity. Here the 4120 shines with a great excess of capacity relative to the E series. Yet, I have tried to load each of my axles well below the rated maximum capacity. I haven't read of any users describing axle failures in the E series tractors so far, nor have I read of axle failures in the 2x20 series tractors, those tractors whose axles are most similar to the E series in load capacity.

"Strain" is not a valid reason for chosing among these tractors for the average user. In fact, it is a difficult idea to prove at all in these discussions. If the gentleman from Alabama buys his 3320 (or even a 4120 for that matter), I think he will join my mother in having a very reliable tractor with nice amenties like loadmatch, motion match, etc--but not one subject to "less strain" than the E series!
Tim
 
   / Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question #40  
I have a deal pending with Coker Tractor in Arab AL for a 3320.

3320
eHydro
300CX
upgraded FEL bucket
R4 tires (larger size)

These are nice people. It is the only small family owned dealer left around here. JC
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

UNKNOWN  500BBL WHEELED FRAC TANK (A58214)
UNKNOWN 500BBL...
John Deere 5090GN (A60462)
John Deere 5090GN...
2014 BMW 5 SERIES SEDAN (A59905)
2014 BMW 5 SERIES...
2019 International WorkStar 7300 4x4 Altec AA55 56ft. Insulated Bucket Truck (A60460)
2019 International...
2020 FREIGHTLINER CASCADIA TANDEM AXLE SLEEPER (A59904)
2020 FREIGHTLINER...
AEREATOR (A58214)
AEREATOR (A58214)
 
Top