Have a 3320 vs. 4120 question

[om21braz]

IMHO, having used a rented 3320 and now owning a 4120 - the 4120 has a fair amount more capability in loader use (dirt moving, etc.). Although if that use is only minimal and mowing in a multi-acre yard-type setting will be the primary in the future - the 3320 may be the better long term unit. Hope you find a machine you're happy with - on the first try.

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Well I didn't jump quick enough on the 4120 as it sold yesterday. Looking at getting a JD 3320 but will compare and test drive the NH 2035, MF 1533 and Mahindra 3316 before I pull the trigger.

Hmmmm...........

Let me try to clear this up..............Quit wasting your time and GET THE 4120.

At that price, I'm not surprised!

 

[RollTideRam]

Well I didn't jump quick enough on the 4120 as it sold yesterday. Looking at getting a JD 3320 but will compare and test drive the NH 2035, MF 1533 and Mahindra 3316 before I pull the trigger.

While you are comparing, stop at Coker tractor in Arab. I know you will get a better deal than TriGreen. JC

 

[Tritonman]

You can set the tires narrower

 

[msmud]

Personally, I think the 4120 is too much tractor for the land you have. I just bought a 3038E for my 106 acres for bushhogging and it seems to have plenty of power. The shakiness you mention was true for mine--with all tires grossly overinflated from the dealer. With more reasonable pressures it rides well. The mechanical hydrostatic drive is noiser than my mom's 3320 at low rpms, but at 2000 rpm and above, it disappears into the engine noise.
These E series tractors really are compelling values.

 

[DennisH]

I need to locate a 3320 and 3038E at the same location to test drive as I'm liking the price of the 3038E. As it stands right now I have the following prices so far: (FEL, hydro, R4)

JD My 1st choice tractor
4120 - $26,750
3320 - $21,320
3038E - $16,400

NH Don't think they really want to sell a tractor.
3040 - $23,000ish
2035 - $23,800

MF Still waiting for a quote.
1533

Mahindra Had to look
3316 - $19,495

Now you might have noticed that Kubota is not on my list, well to be honest I can't get my brain pass the color. I know it's a good tractor but hey we all have our quirks.

Given what I need a tractor for I think the 3038E would fit my needs very well and that $16,400 price is attractive.

 

[kromc5]

We originally looking at the 3038e the dealer had in stock, the also had the 4320 cab. We really like the 3038e for the size, but I'm very glad I got the 4320. The 4320 has some trouble with the oaks I'm pulling now, so I'm pretty sure the 3038e would not have been able to pull them. The 4320 turns amazing well, mow right around everything on the property.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Personally, I think the 4120 is too much tractor for the land you have.

That might be the case, depending on who you talk to and how you feel. I personally dont think there is such a thing as "too much tractor". The problem is usally "not enough wallet".
I know its water under the bridge now, but at the price quoted, it was a free upgrade.

 

[msmud]

Dave,
I must respectfully disagree. It seems to me the proper approach to buying a tractor is to determine what implements one needs to do the work at hand, and then maximize the solution by buying the minimum tractor necessary to power those attachments. Yet, the focus of many posts on this website is often on the tractor, not the implements needed.

In my case, a 6 foot bushhog seemed ideal for my land and its hill and declines, and the 3032E/3038E seemed the most efficient solution, particularly the latter tractor with its power reserve.

I would urge the gentleman from Alabama to think carefully about what implements he really needs for 7 acres, and buy the tractor accordingly--no matter what enticing deal may be available at the dealership for a 4000, 5000, or 6000 series tractor.
Tim

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Dave,
I must respectfully disagree. It seems to me the proper approach to buying a tractor is to determine what implements one needs to do the work at hand, and then maximize the solution by buying the minimum tractor necessary to power those attachments. Tim

Hey, no prob Tim... Chicken -> Egg, or Egg -> Chicken, at least we're talking about tasty critters either way :laughing:

I see it as you buy the implements to match the tractor you have. We been hashing this out on the Cab vs No cab thread I've got a 3520 Cab on a hair over 2 acres. And truthfully, if I woulda had the opportunity to get into a demo 4x20 Cab machine for relatively few bucks more like this deal, you can bet I would have a 4x20 Cab. I woulda pulled the trigger within the hour. Its not totally out of the question either, I'm designing my new garage build to have at least 1 9' door so I can get a 4x20 cab machine in there no prob. Absouletly no plans to upgrade because I have zero complaints with my 3520.

When my dad bought his L2900, he thought "this is alot of tractor, I'll never need more"...and in time you soon learn to outgrow it. If he were to replace it tomorrow it would probably be with one from the top end (40+hp) of the Grand L series.

My advice is still "Buy the largest tractor you can comfortably afford".

Yet, the focus of many posts on this website is often on the tractor, not the implements needed.

This is true...I say thats because its relatively easy & cheap to buy/swap/sell attachments. Some people buy a landscape rake to put in a lawn and then sell it when the job is done 6 months later. Whereas buying a tractor is a long term deal. Not unusual to see items on Craislist saying "selling because its too big/small for my tractor".
With all due respcect, Using your sizing method, you'd buy all your attachments, and then buy a tractor to drive those attachments. If you found the tractor you bought was too small to run your 6' implements, would you sell your tractor and buy a bigger one or would you sell the 6' Rear blade and buy 5 footer?