Forum for air cooled diesel engines and clones

[Keaton85]

From what I’ve seen it’s the cheap Chinese clone parts that are inferior. The camshaft material is inferior with improper or no heat treatment. An oem Yanmar cam & bearing may be interchangeable which would solve that problem.
The quality of clone parts varies from terrible to good/great.
Are you saying the crankshaft PTO and rod bearings are wearing also?

90cummins

Thanks! That's what I figured when I read through this topic, I just wanted to check if I missed something.

I actually have a running "8.5Kw" Chinese diesel, and an original Winco 5.5Kw with a Yanmar L100 with unknown hours. This unit I just stripped down was one that did not get enough or probably any oil changes. Thus it has PTO end bearing wear and big end crank bearing wear, also cam fallow wear as well! This all probably caused the poor running, hot exhaust and in turn the dropped valve.

I have thought of either:
- Get a needle bearing with inner race and machine down the end shaft to press on the inner race.
- open up the crankcase bore on the bearing end and get a large ball bearing installed with some machining on camshaft.
- I noticed the Yanmar original camshaft at the gear end actually has a bushing bearing and not a ball bearing. The ball bearing could actually be causing the issue at the small end by allowing more movement. If the big end was changed to a double-row ball bearing that might keep it a bit more "straight".

 

[90cummins]

Did you say there is a ball bearing on the small end of camshaft not a needle bearing?
The plain bearing on the cam has not been an issue same with needle bearing in the crankcase. The problem is poor quality parts. Install genuine Yanmar parts & you should be good providing they are interchangeable.
90cummins

 

[90cummins]

Could you take a photo of cam & bearings.

90cummins

 

[Keaton85]

It's a needle bearing, the big end is the ball bearing, yet the Yanmar original has a bushing. My thought was to replace the needle bearing with either one with an inner race, or a complete ball bearing. The RPM rating only has to be 1800RPM, thus, its more about the pressure applied to that end.

The movement that I am concerned about caused by the big end bearing is radial, due to it be unbalanced on the small end bearing side. The bushing style on the original Yanmar might mitigate this issue.

I will post photos when back home in a few days.

 

[Keaton85]

Here is the damage: 350hrs, dropped valve.

 

[arto98607]

Ouch!

 

[90cummins]

Here is the damage: 350hrs, dropped valve.

You’ve got a mess there.

 

[bmaverick]

bump

 

[90cummins]

What are your plans?
Scrap or attempt to repair?

 

[bmaverick]

YANMAR OWNER MANUAL L70 L100 NDK6000YE.pdf

 

[bmaverick]

YANMAR L70AE - L100AE '97 PARTS MANUAL.pdf

 

[bmaverick]

Service_Manual_-_Yanmar_Engine_L48-70-100.pdf

 

[bmaverick]

YANMAR L100AE-DEGLE8YC PARTS MANUAL 0CR10-M72500EN.pdf

and

YANMAR L100AE DATA SHEET.pdf

 

[CPTKILLER]

While not that common in the USA, Deutz diesel engines were a good option for the Army Quiet Generator program. My company manufactured them for a military contract.

They were a good engine but it involved a learning curve because air cooled diesel’s were new to us. We had to tweak each engine to meet the generator output requirements.

We built many stationary gen sets for remote operations around the world. We used mainly US diesels but from my experience, Yanmar were some of the most reliable engines.

DEUTZ: Engine Finder - Technical Overview & Datasheets : DEUTZ AG

Find the right engine for you with the DEUTZ Engine Finder. Filter all our engine variants up to 620 kW in power range for off-highway applications.

www.deutz.com

 

[ponytug]

@bmaverick Thanks!

All the best, Peter

 

[careyo63]

Must be one fancy Yanmar Tractor. What Model is it in?

Yanmar L100AE Manuals

Yanmar L100AE Pdf User Manuals. View online or download Yanmar L100AE Service Manual

www.manualslib.com

 

[careyo63]

Boat/Lawn mower never would have guessed

 

[KangerooL48]

New Member here from Western Australia. Great thread and I have spent several hours reading through this thread. Picked up a great deal of information and wish to thank active members for the effort to educate others.

My interest is with a problem I am experiencing with a Yanmar L48 driving a fire fighting pump.

Motor starts and splutters away with blue/black exhaust but won’t run up to speed. I have given it a shot of WD40 into the intake with the air cleaner removed and it will run up to speed.

Maintenance background New Air Cleaner element, Oil changed, oil strainer cleaned ( no noticeable debris) fuel filter replaced, new fuel line, Fresh fuel, valve clearances set to 005”, voltage regulator changed, new wiring, new car sized battery (750 CCA)


After motor had run up to speed added fuel injection cleaner and ran at full load for ~10 hours hoping to clean/burn up any carbon deposits. Under load motor runs sweet Unfortunately Problem still persists on start up. ( it’s like the choke stuck on with a gas engine).

I have checked external governors springs and levers etc which seem free and springs in place.

I did have a problem with damage to the fuel pump with the stop solenoid having been dislodged from the pump body. Suspect previously owner had undone fuel pipe and spanner had hit stop solenoid body dislodging from pump casing but still remained attached but was “ floating” about. I replaced the small “O” ring and Used cold weld to bond to pump casting.

I plan to double check that the pump has been inserted properly into the fork linkage and double check air is bleed from the system and absolutely no leaks.

Any suggestions on what to logically check next?

Adjust pump timing? Currently only one small brass shim?

Remove injector and check injection spray pattern?

 

[ponytug]

New Member here from Western Australia. Great thread and I have spent several hours reading through this thread. Picked up a great deal of information and wish to thank active members for the effort to educate others.

My interest is with a problem I am experiencing with a Yanmar L48 driving a fire fighting pump.

Motor starts and splutters away with blue/black exhaust but won’t run up to speed. I have given it a shot of WD40 into the intake with the air cleaner removed and it will run up to speed.

Maintenance background Oil changed, oil strainer cleaned ( no noticeable debris) fuel filter replaced, new fuel line, Fresh fuel, valve clearances set to 005”


After motor had run up to speed added fuel injection cleaner and ran at full load for ~10 hours hoping to clean/burn up any carbon deposits. Under load motor runs sweet Unfortunately Problem still persists on start up. ( it’s like the choke stuck on with a gas engine).

I have checked external governors springs and levers etc which seem free.

I did have a problem with damage to the fuel pump with the stop solenoid having been dislodged from the pump body which I replaced the small “O” ring and Used cold weld to bond to pump casting.

I plan to double check that the pump has been inserted properly into the fork linkage and double check air is bleed from the system and absolutely no leaks.

Any suggestions on what to check next?

Welcome to TBN!

Is your fire pump a Darley, or some other brand? I'd love to see a photo.

Yes, that's abnormal, and that seems like a reasonable starting plan. Can you post a photo of your repair?

Just so we are all on the same page, are you talking about the high pressure injection pump, with an integrated solenoid? If so, I would still check the injection pump pin/fork, and try to bleed and prime the system, but it sounds like an air leak at the solenoid to me. I had a pinhole leak once (upthread) that drove me bananas trying to find the cause.

You live in amazing part of the world: where in WA?

All the best,

Peter

 

[arto98607]

How long does the "starts and splutters away with blue/black exhaust" last after the startup?