Dump Trailer

[Iplayfarmer]

I got the brackets for the ram cut out and welded up. I decided to go with a little thicker tubing for these.

The first picture is a shot of the jig I worked up to drill the 1" hole in the bracketry. I don't have a deep enough throated clamp. I keep a piece of wood bolted to my drill press table, so I drove two nails into the wood. These did a great job of keeping the piece stable and had the added benefit of helping make each piece the same as the one before.

The second picture is of the two brackets.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

One last picture for today.

I got the frame for the bed in place. I leveled the sub frame and then cribbed up the bed until it was level. I've got 13 1/2" from the bottom of the sub frame to the bottom of the bed. That's the rise I'll be able to use for the ram. That should give me plenty of dumping force.

 

[Reg]

I need some advice on the placement of the hydraulic ram.

From all of my calculations, I can get more initial torque and a greater final angle of dump from a ram that is angled up and forward. the Dump bed attachment is further from the hinge point and therefore more torque, and the frame attachment is closer to the hinge point meaning that it can push the bed higher.

So why are all of the dump trailers that I see built with the ram going up and back? What am I missing?

Your description of "up and forwards" didn't make sense to me - could be me.
I agree, just about all dump trailers seem to have their rams mounted at the "front" (opposite end of the bed to the hinge point) and as they raise the ram angles backwards.
By "torque" do you mean initial lifting force, or "leverage" against the center of mass ? (which I assume would be at about the mid point).

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I got the brackets tacked in place for the ram. It did take me two tries, but I only had to move things about 1/8" for the second try.

I'm pleased with it. The point where the ram attaches to the bed is far enough forward that it will lift a lot of weight, and the angle of dump seems steep enough to dump just about anything.

I meant to time the dump cycle, but I never got around to it. Just from memory it seems like it took about 10 seconds or so.

 

[MrJimi]

I have a question , whenever I build something, I always try to figure what can go wrong with it, I am wondering if you have a damp or slightly stuck to the bed load, what will stop the hitch point from lifting off the ground and the rear of tow buggi. Kinda like your trailer sitting down if that makes more sense?
I built a boom pole for lifting and it did that real good till I added my 3 foot rake and applied down force to it, I did not take that into consideration and took it apart and redid it and it is STRONG now

 

[BTDT]

Looking good. What do you plan on using for bottom, sides? Will the sides be removeable, like a stake bed? Can't wait to see finished trailer, how about a pic of it hooked up to tow vehicle.

 

[john_bud]

I got the brackets tacked in place for the ram. It did take me two tries, but I only had to move things about 1/8" for the second try.

I'm pleased with it. The point where the ram attaches to the bed is far enough forward that it will lift a lot of weight, and the angle of dump seems steep enough to dump just about anything.

I meant to time the dump cycle, but I never got around to it. Just from memory it seems like it took about 10 seconds or so.

NIce, but it looks like you can make the bed of the dump 8-10" longer. After all, it's like you said "more is better".

jb

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

I'm making the bed deck and sides out of wood. I've got some old crates that are made out of rough cut 1" X 4" that are 14 feet long. I'll cut them to length and run them through my planer and make a few passes over the jointer. I'm planning on having the uprights still out of metal, and the wood bolted to that.

The bed deck and the first 18" of the sides will be tightly fitted to hold in dirt, etc. I'll have another extension of looser fit wood rack that will extend up another 18 inches or so. I know for sure the extensions will be removable. I'm still not sure about the first tier, though. It all comes down to if I can think of many uses for a flat bed of this size.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

what will stop the hitch point from lifting off the ground and the rear of tow buggi. Kinda like your trailer sitting down if that makes more sense?

Thanks for bringing that up. I'm not sure how much of a concern that will be...

The hinge point is less than 6 inches behind the rear axle. The ram at least 6 inches in front of the rear axle. It seems like the load will actually be balanced over the rear axle in the worst case scenario.

I'll have to take some measurements when I get back home and see how much of a risk there is of this.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

NIce, but it looks like you can make the bed of the dump 8-10" longer. After all, it's like you said "more is better".

jb

Were you thinking I could make it longer behind the axles, or in front?

 

[bbabineau]

Thanks for bringing that up. I'm not sure how much of a concern that will be...

The hinge point is less than 6 inches behind the rear axle. The ram at least 6 inches in front of the rear axle. It seems like the load will actually be balanced over the rear axle in the worst case scenario.

I'll have to take some measurements when I get back home and see how much of a risk there is of this.

I suggest you never think of dumping when not attached to the tow vehicle. Unless the load slides out as the bed is rising, think about the weight of the load being beyond the axle and up the whole trailer will go.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I timed the ram. 7 seconds up, and 7 seconds down. That should be plenty fast enough.

 

[Renze]

just look at farmphoto.com, in the "whoops" section... there are plenty of examples of dump trailers lifting the tractor rear end sky high due to a tailgate that didnt open, or a tailgate that got plugged with a big chunk of reed and ditch mulch....

 

[Iplayfarmer]

just look at farmphoto.com, in the "whoops" section... there are plenty of examples of dump trailers lifting the tractor rear end sky high due to a tailgate that didnt open, or a tailgate that got plugged with a big chunk of reed and ditch mulch....

The tailgate getting stuck...Now I understand.

I looked at my design again, and the hinge point is almost directly over the rear axle. I couldn't see how it could tip the trailer back. Now that I got the idea about a load sticking, I see how it could tip the trailer.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I got in a few minutes last night to work on the trailer...

The first pic is of the bed cross members that I have welded in place. These are what the wooden deck is going to bolt to.

The second picture shows where the battery is going to go. That pan is just set in place for now. I still have to weld it in.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I may be getting a little ahead of myself here, but what's the best way to prep the frame, etc. for painting?

Wire brush?
Flap Wheel?
Some kind of chemical application?

 

[2310 guy]

Sand blast it.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Sand blast it.

I don't have a sand blaster.

 

[sr160009]

I may be getting a little ahead of myself here, but what's the best way to prep the frame, etc. for painting?

Wire brush?
Flap Wheel?
Some kind of chemical application?

I use a hand held grinder with a wire brush attachment, it works pretty good. If you do not have one you can get them pretty cheap. I bought one at harbor freight for $20.00 (chicago electric brand), it works ok. For that price, if it just works a year or 2 it is worth it. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Renze]

sand blasting takes a lifetime with a reasonable hobby compressor.
flappy disking works good, but it tends to take material away on the high spots and dont penetrate enough in the pits.

My favorite tool is the wire brush. even if you grind a long time on the same place to clean out some rust pits, it takes away only the sick material and leaves the healthy metal untouched. ...kinda like maggots in a wound...