Dump trailer direct wire?

   / Dump trailer direct wire? #1  

LD1

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Apr 30, 2008
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Location
Central Ohio
Tractor
Kubota MX5100
I know quite a few here have a dump trailer. Anyone decide to direct wire to run off the trucks battery?

I see it is a fairly common thing cause when googling it, lots of posts on landscape type forums.

I only dump the dump trailer with the electric maybe 20-30 times a year. Most of the time it runs off the remotes on my tractor. Im at the point where the battery just wont hold a charge. Not sure the exact amps a dump trailer wants to pull. I have seen some say 250+. Doing some voltage drop calculations and wanting to keep over 12v (figuring 14v supply off truck alternator) Im coming up with 4/0 wire.

But I have also read people that have used 2/0, down to as small as 2 ga. And some even with a 200a breaker. They seem happy.

Looking at a kit like this https://www.polepalsolarlightingsys...NUwxnatVE974zkY6v6UaAr68EALw_wcB#.YWSIohrMKM9
There are several out there.....and seems several people have done this to dump trailers. I'd connect the "winch" side to the dump trailer.

AS a bonus I'd be able to jump stuff from the back of the truck and never have to pop the hood with the clamp accessory.

Question I am pondering is whether or not to leave the dump trailer battery in the circuit......to kinda act as a buffer yet still be as fully charged as my pair of truck batteries....or just get rid of it?

Wondering if any fellow TBN members have done this. Seems a $120-$150 kit makes more sense than spending $150 on a battery every few years. Seems its a wiser use of funds to direct wire.
 
   / Dump trailer direct wire? #2  
I would think you would want a really good connector, one that wouldn't corrode as well as a very good ground on both the vehicle and trailer. Since 12v winches use the same kind of power I see no reason not to. The only risk would be the fuse. If the wire got damaged and partially shorted out it may not blow the fuse and would most likely cause a fire. One trick I have found for grounds is to drill a hole in the frame and then put a stainless bolt through it. Weld the head of the bolt (it's on the opposite side of the frame from the threads) and then paint the head. It'll never rust so you'll always have a good ground. I do it on all my trailers for the brakes and lights.
 
   / Dump trailer direct wire? #3  
take the battery out, if its already dying all the time, then your just putting a strain on the system to charge it, for what i assume is a short duration.

I disagree about the ground frame, don't even change it, the wire kit will dedicate a ground wire up to the battery. otherwise you will need to upgrade the ground strap.
 
   / Dump trailer direct wire? #4  
If you can wire it of sufficient gauge and buy connectors that do the job for $150 that’s what I would do. I don’t like the battery pump in my dump trailer either. A vehicle dependent setup wouldn’t work for my use. If I was going to do anything with mine I would put a Honda motor on it but that’s more work than I want to do.
 
   / Dump trailer direct wire? #5  
For a single dump here and there it should be fine.
But multiple dumps could sap your truck's battery down too far if there's not much recharge in between.
 
   / Dump trailer direct wire? #6  
Based on your use, I would eliminate the battery also, I do not see any advantage to keeping it. I don't know anything about the company you are looking at (as far as their quality goes) but for less than $26 dollars more they offer a kit for dump trailers that includes the proper sized manual reset circuit breaker... I might look at that for the extra few dollars....

7pc Dump Trailer Wiring Set
 
   / Dump trailer direct wire? #7  
Step by step, with pictures:

 
   / Dump trailer direct wire? #8  
To add a suggestion to the instructions that nikerret suggested - If you are thinking about doing the wiring to your dump trailer so that it is "keyed" (i.e. only live when the truck is running) or switched power otterboxes make excellent water/dust resistant housing for relays and such.

I wanted auxiliary power distribution for my truck to power lights and air bags and put all of the relays and the necessary bus bar in an otterbox, with the solenoid and main fuse mounted adjacent to the relay housing.
 
   / Dump trailer direct wire?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Well, as it turns out....so many of those $100-$120 "winch" kits are CCA or DCCA wires:mad:

But I did find a kit from a company out of Michigan that uses 2ga pure copper welding wire

I also got a 15" piece of 2ga with ring terminal ends so I can go from battery to a 300A breaker which I also ordered.

All in everything was ~$160 which is about the cost of the battery. I measured at the truck and trailer and 24' for the truck and 8' for the trailer was about perfect. 32' total cable.

14.5v out of the truck running and 200A load should still give me just shy of 12v. Which should be sufficient to run the pump. But I think I am gonna leave the battery in the circuit to let it help whatever it can. It may come back to life when I actually have sufficient power back there to keep it charged. But I havent decided yet. I guess I wont decide until I install it and see how it works both ways.
 
   / Dump trailer direct wire?
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Step by step, with pictures:

I ran across that post when I was searching the subject. Basically the same thing I am doing. Curious why you used 2 breakers....at the truck and at the trailer?

I saw the kit you linked but dont have an amazon account....and couldnt find whether or not it was pure copper wire or CCA/DCCA

Now that you have had some time since you have done yours....is it still preforming as expected? Anything you have changed or would do different if you do it again
 
 
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