DIY logging winch build

[Jim Timber]

You must be careful and choose something that doesn't stays engaged if you lose power to the winch.

Yes, this is an application that absolutely must "fail safe". If power or hydraulic pressure is lost, the design must revert to the disengaged state rather than engaged or remaining engaged (even if only partially).

What I've been contemplating is having the hydraulic cylinder push against a spring that would retract the cam lever to the off position. This way you only need pressure to engage the clutch and if anything fails it disengages it.

 

[davedj1]

So a very disheartening day, spent the morning grinding the new ramp pieces and took the clutch disc out and put in some brake pads. Put it all back together and hauled it over to my buddies land. First log and nuttin' It won't even begin to pull but on a brighter note I did have free wheeling so it was easy to pull the cable out. I skidded about 10 logs out by just pulling them with the cable out, then back up while the PTO is in and letting the cable wind up, then pull ahead again etc. etc.
I'm guessing I have a lot going on (or not going on depending on your point of view) The first thing is I believe I have too much flex on the sprocket and the drum end. I can reinforce the drum end easy enough but not sure how to go about it on the sprocket. My first thought is to add some sort of bearings behind the sprocket for it to push against instead of flexing, any ideas on that one? LOL
Can anyone tell me the gauge chain on a farmi or fransgard winch> I am using #50. I wonder if #60 would have a thicker sprocket. Looking at the pictures of the farmi drum it looks as though the rear part of the drum is 1/2" thick? Mine is only 5/16". I think I have a work around for that.
Oh well, tomorrow is another day and it looks to be a crappy one so I can tear it apart again.

 

[Jim Timber]

I'm pretty sure the commercial units are using #80 or larger chain. I'm not sure exactly on my FX85, but it's some sizeable stuff.

 

[Jstpssng]

Looking at your clutch plates, you will probably end up adding more pads. I haven't had my Uniforest apart yet, but I do know that on my Fransgard it was a one piece disc, riveted the backing plate.

 

[Rustyiron]

I've been wondering if it'd be possible to rig a self-contained hydraulic system running a pump off the outside of the drive chain off the PTO, then a solenoid valve to operate a single acting cylinder which is retracted via a spring? Then you'd only need the 12v for the valve and you already need that for the remote anyway.

If your describing what I think your are, Tajfun makes a nice winch that runs as you describe. It's not in the same price category but a remote winch would be real nice limbing & topping in the woods as you could drag it past you as you trim it up and stay ahead of all that brush that can be dangerous walking in. I like to "break down" the tops rather than leaving it whole in the woods.

 

[Oldpath05]

Four years ago my winch chain broke so had to go get a repair link and bought a couple extra, the chain hasn't broke again but if it does I'm ready, the package says 50 on it so that must be the size.

 

[davedj1]

Very cool, thank you. I may just go the pin route for the wedge part. Been studying that setup.

 

[Oldpath05]

Looking at your clutch plates, you will probably end up adding more pads. I haven't had my Uniforest apart yet, but I do know that on my Fransgard it was a one piece disc, riveted the backing plate.

I concur theres no wheres near enough brake material on davedj1 brake disc, seems so that ramp collar should work>>

 

[davedj1]

Here is how one store bought winch is built, I suppose this is how they combat the flex.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...igger-tractor-winch_disassemble-14-medium-jpg

 

[Agvg]

Don't get the link to work

 

[John_Mc]

Yes, this is an application that absolutely must "fail safe". If power or hydraulic pressure is lost, the design must revert to the disengaged state rather than engaged or remaining engaged (even if only partially).

What I've been contemplating is having the hydraulic cylinder push against a spring that would retract the cam lever to the off position. This way you only need pressure to engage the clutch and if anything fails it disengages it.

Similar to what is done with the brakes on a semi trailer: There are springs that hold the brakes on. The pneumatic hook up from the cab holds the brakes off (unless the driver presses the brakes). If the pnuematic pressure is lost, the trailer brakes lock up.

 

[Agvg]

This type from a hydraulic trailer brake sould work on a winch, its quite small

 

[davedj1]

Don't get the link to work

Hmmm, works for me but who knows?

 

[davedj1]

Ok here's today's thought. I want to reinforce the back side of the sprocket like in the factory one does in the link.
I should probably ask in the welding section but what's the best way to keep the sprocket to not warp while I weld some reinforcement on it?

I want to either stack some discs in steps or maybe some tapered fins, I do have to mind the clutch bolts.
Here's the link again if it works
Homemade Loader forks Beautiful Skidding Winch Need Bigger Tractor | Kitchen Set

 

[Jstpssng]

I was cleaning out my files this AM and came across the manual for the Farmi winch I owned briefly. I don't know if the enclosed parts diagram is any use to you.

 

[Jim Timber]

This type from a hydraulic trailer brake sould work on a winch, its quite small

View attachment 546603

The problem with pneumatics is that you'd need an air supply and you'd also have icing issues with the time of year we're usually cutting/logging.

Hydraulics have more control (no sponginess in engagement), and are more maintenance free on small sealed systems.

 

[Agvg]

Yes, and those cylinders are very suitable for this task.

 

[davedj1]

Here is today's update!
I made some new ramps out of 2.5" DOM .250 wall that I had. I made a double ramp so I'm hoping that it will work. I also reinforced the other side of the winch with a piece of 4" channel, I think it will help. I can't wait to test it out.
BTW I put the clutch back in, at least that had some grip...LOL I can put some serious force on it now.

 

[Jim Timber]

Yes, and those cylinders are very suitable for this task.

Truck air systems are under 175psi, while the Wallenstein hydraulic remote system uses 800psi on a 2" cylinder (to retract the rod to engage, so the weak side - but still).

 

[Peter 315]

Truck air systems are under 175psi, while the Wallenstein hydraulic remote system uses 800psi on a 2" cylinder (to retract the rod to engage, so the weak side - but still).

Truck air systems 120psi ,safety on the air tank blows off at 150psi