Container Weld Shop build -

[BukitCase]

Thanks; I like the finish I get with solid carbide, but it went kinda slow (only had an 8mm dia. in carbide) - I just ordered a 1/2" center cut one, TiAlNi coated; just under $70 with shipping - glad I bought a lot of the spendier accessories for the mill when I wuz still gettin OT (like the angle table, H/V rotary table with chuck, vises, blocks, 3 clamp sets, collets, boring bars, etc - "little" items don't hurt quite so bad in "onesie-twosies", at least til I get enough room for the matchng lathe

Now, if I kin just convince meself to "GOYA-DIN" in this crappy weather, I might get a bit more done today :umbrella-guy: ...Steve

 

[dragoneggs]

A used mill with lots accessories is on my bucket list. Don't want to deal with 3 phase or conversions though. If a recently old Bridgport comes my way, I will make room!

 

[BukitCase]

I gave up on used machine tools around here a few years ago, looked for a LOOOOONG time and everything I saw had been rode hard and put away wet (if at all) at least 30 years ago; somehow that made it worth more than it cost NEW - My Grizzly ain't a Bridgeport, but it's a square column (not a glorified drill press) with power X axis, power up/down on the head - if I ever find that "tuit", I have all the Arduino stuff and scales to add 3 axis DRO (wireless) and a free android app called TouchDRO - for what I need, it's been fine so far... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Today I got more done on the corner braces - first thing I noticed is that, even though both of the channel "spreaders" were perpendicular to post and I beam, the 2 identical length 45 degree tube gussets did NOT both end up positioned the same relative to the channel EDGES - meaning, SOMETHING was outa whack...

So I clamped one of the gusset pieces temporarily to the post, adjusted it so it was parallel to the I beam (from the side), then looked down from above the I beam - sure 'nuf, the clamped piece was NOT parallel to the I beam - so I loosened the 4 bolts that hold the main I beam clamped to the post, used the clamped tube gusset as a lever and rotated the post (slightly) til the I beam and tube WERE parallel, then re-tightened the bolts -



The channel spreader (with 45 degree milled slots) bolted to the post - the piece of 1-1/2" tube and the 1/4" FB below it are just spacers; the channel needed to be 1-3/4" above the larger post tube, these kept it in place til it was bolted -



Got things clamped up, ready to weld in place - I REALLY like those Stronghand 4 in 1 clamps, notice the "pipe" adapters also work on oddball angled stuff -



New MM211 and its "4-way cart" moved easily on my "high-tech gravel floor", ready to make sparks -



Manual settings for 1/8" steel -



Welds done (some nicer than others; note to self: get COMFEY, THEN pull trigger )



I should get the other brace done tomorrow, then I'll unbolt both, clean up, paint, and re-attach - Then it'll be time to fab the trolley for the 1-ton electric hoist that'll share the beam with a chain fall (for when 2 pick points are better)

Must be supper time... Steve

 

[Xfaxman]

Amazing. :thumbsup:

 

[BukitCase]

Thanks; but I may have lied about what's next - the more I look at that first vertical weld, the more I consider grinding it out and doing it RIGHT - maybe I'll do the OTHER brace first, THEN see what I think... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Did the second diagonal brace today; Same problem on a couple of vertical ups as before - looks like I'm gonna have to spend some "quality time" with the little MM211, those welds would've looked like "flatlander" welds with the MM252 But even so, they're plenty strong for this and I'm ready to move on anyway

Spreaders bolted up and diagonals clamped (had to do the same "post rotation" as the other one) -



Got the "2 axis balance control) pretty well dialed in on the cart's pick point (yes, the wheels ARE 4" off the ground) -



Wind started comin' up so I invoked "plan B" -



All the welds look about the same, so you can just look at THIS one 4 times :laughing:



Looks like manana's gonna be a "housekeeping" day, got 4 5 gallon buckets full of tools/clamps and a workbench I can't find anymore - Then it'll be time to unbolt everything I just did, clean it up and paint - after that I get to fab the interface between the 1 ton electric hoist and the trolley(s)... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

"housekeeping" day, got 4 5 gallon buckets full of tools/clamps and a workbench I can't find anymore"<<<<<<<<<<<I have that trouble everytime I dont organize or put my tools away at the end of the days project, I find it better to keep organized than speaking in tongues when trying to find the hammer on starting the next days job.

How come you dont use autoset on the 211?

 

[BukitCase]

"How come you dont use autoset on the 211?"

I used to use it on the previous transformer mm211, started seeing things with my welds that that I couldn't see a reason for - then I read somewhere (wish I could find it again ) that Autoset changes parameters DYNAMICALLY depending on stickout??!? - so I started setting it manually (slightly colder than the chart recommends) and my welds started improving -

Then (of course) the MM252 doesn't HAVE autoset, so I just kept doing it the same; then when I started using the DIGITAL MM211 (Really, Miller??!? ya couldn't-a at least put a "D" after the number?) it didn't work quite like I expected. The last batch of welds agree, they SUCK at least a third of the time - but it's a PITA to drag the 252 out across my "custom high-tech gravel floor", and I had this nifty "offroad" cart, soooo....

So now, guess I'll put some of those scraps to good use and learn to weld all over again First thing I'll try is what worked on the transformer 211; autoset, set about one "notch" thinner metal than I'm actually welding...

I'm ALSO not real happy with Miller's new M150 gun - got a 15' 'cause 10 is just stupid (gonna extend the work clamp too ) - but the torch is typical Chinese, it's so stiff you almost can't force it to rotate where YOU want it - I wonder if the newer M25 guns are that way now too? My older M25 is fine, I can rotate the nozzle a full 360 degrees without having to fight it...

Well, I got 3-1/2 of those buckets emptied and can see about 2/3 of the bench, then took one of the diagonal braces apart so it'd come off the crane, the bolts for the upper spreader didn't wanna come out easy so I took one at a time out and went up 1/64 on drill size, did cleanups - also decided that having the bolts that close to the channel legs wasn't gonna work well (bolts tended to pull sideways) so I took the offending piece of channel (the spreader) down to the shop, set up the mill with a center-cutting cutter and flattened out the area around the holes a bit - now they sit fine, and apparently it wasn't the welds pulling so much as just too tight a fit -

I'll do the same to the OTHER brace manana, maybe touch up a couple of the worst welds, clean both of the braces up and paint -

Probably won't get much done Saturday, it's #1 son's 47th BD so we'll probly go offer him a beer (to cry in :laughing: )...Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

I have the older 211 (2013), use with .030 70s, my heat and and and and and corresponding wire speed is just about spot on. So nice when I'm going from different thickness of steel, instead of moving both dials, I just move one, haven't tried it on .035 wire yet. My mig gun is 10' long, wonder if that makes a difference in the autoset? Sometimes a longer mig gun will have a harder time feeding wire.

 

[dragoneggs]

I have the older 211 (2013), use with .030 70s, my heat and and and and and corresponding wire speed is just about spot on. So nice when I'm going from different thickness of steel, instead of moving both dials, I just move one, haven't tried it on .035 wire yet. My mig gun is 10' long, wonder if that makes a difference in the autoset? Sometimes a longer mig gun will have a harder time feeding wire.

I'm guessing I have the same one but a couple years newer. Yes the gun is a bit short but I have never had a problem that wasn't operator error. :ashamed: Only have run .030 and 75/25 and steel, but I know it is still way better than me.

 

[BukitCase]

I'm pretty sure my problem is "OEM" - (as in, Operator Error Mostly ) - Yeah, the M150 gun is stiff enough to beat an elephant to death with, but I saw ZERO indications of stutter or any other feed problems, it just seemed like I'd forgotten how to weld uphill - it might not be the machine at all, some of the welds were in places I couldn't find a position to see much, and I WAS on a ladder - one step wasn't high enough for me, and the next one up was TOO high (made me crouch; gettin' too old fer that )

For the last couple welds, I raised the crane another notch (6" per notch) and that seemed to help - next chance I get I'm definitely gonna work on "dialing in" some too...

Fixed ANOTHER problem (of my own making) today; I had made the diagonal braces so the upper C channel spreader BOLTS up to a pair of 1/4"x4"x4"flat plates, which are welded to the diagonal tubes - otherwise, if I needed to adjust OR remove those braces I'd have to disconnect the upright posts COMPLETELY from the I beam - (pic is BEFORE welding)



I wanted the mounting bolts as wide apart as possible to minimise any tendency to rock, but I got 'em a little TOO far apart, so the channel legs made it so the nuts and lock washers couldn't sit FLAT

Milling machine and a 3/4" center cut end mill to the rescue -



Some of the other goodies the couple years of mandatory OT paid for (the top red box is empty at the moment, bottom one's got boring bars, angle plates, parallels, mills, drill bits, more T nuts, mics, other measuring stuff, tramming indicator, files, center finders, etc, the 6" chuck for that rotary table and all the stuff for the 3 axis DRO (except the time to build it )



After I finished "un-screwing up", I spent 3 hours "leveling the weeds" that the warmer weather AND ample precipitation were so kind to help grow - 7mph over rough ground ain't nearly as much fun as it NEVER wuz :thumbdown: - I may or may not move manana ...Steve

 

[dragoneggs]

Looks like you are getting more orginamasized.

 

[BukitCase]

Yeah, it would SEEM so; that's the beauty of still pics, if you're careful with composition you only show what you WANT people to see :laughing:

In actuality, I just moved three "modules" away from the REST of the pile that's sorta out of the way for moving "inventory" out into one of the containers - the mill's still on its original shipping pallet (with a "lift kit" so it'll let the pallet jack get under). It, the tool box and that rolling shelf each has its own dust cover, so perpetuating that "lie" was as simple as rolling 3 things away from the "mess", pulling their covers, plugging a couple things in and FAKING it :laughing:

But what the heck, at this stage of the game I'll take even "left-handed" compliments - so your "right-handed" ones are REALLY appreciated :thumbsup:

Re: my earlier comments on mowing - the deck got so clogged up last nite it started leaving gaps, but the grass (spelled W-E-E-D-S) had gotten so tall I wanted it done even if I need to do it again in a couple days - it wuz gettin' dark by the time I quit, so I didn't clean the deck (not a quick job) - so today I worked out yet ANOTHER use for my hoe and "tinker toy set" -



And yeah, that 3 ton rated stand was under the mower/bucket any time I was :thumbsup: Couple minor changes I thought of, but even the FIRST time was a LOT easier than R&R the deck... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Noticed I hadn't included much info on "tinker toys" here, for anybody interested here's most of 'em in one place -

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...todays-shop-time-post4913873.html#post4913873

I'll try to add a few more links later... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Finally got back to cleanup/paint on the braces for the HF crane - ended up slicing one of the worst "shaky man on a ladder" welds out with a zip disk and re-doing it. Only pic I took was of paint drying ('bout as boring as it sounds )
View attachment 550935
When I unbolted the upper spreader channel after welding, the tubes had moved just enough to bind up on the mounting bolts - so I clamped one of the legs in the vise, loosened all the nuts and started pushing the tubes apart with one of the Stronghand 4:1 clamps (add the standoff on the OUTSIDE of the "F" part, reverse the acme screw end, and you get a 1200# spreader instead of a 1200# clamp)

I found out I had to push the tubes apart just over 1/2" BEYOND where they needed to be, before they would line up with the bolt holes on their own. Now I can reassemble the braces around the I beam without having to use more clamps to force things into alignment... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Todays feeble attempt at progress - the first corner brace, ready to re-install. The left piece of channel is the upper spreader, and it needs to be removed from the rest of the brace or I would need to take the entire upright loose from the I beam to get it on;

so all 8 of those 3/8" bolts came off, then the channel got loosely bolted/clamped onto the I beam; then the rest of the brace got rested on a clamped on piece of square tube just above the outer half of the upright. Once all the OTHER bolts were in and tightened, then the 2 clamp bolts (that hold the upper channel to the I beam) got tightened, and it looks like this -


The second brace spent some time under the IR lamps (bit cool for paint today) and got the rest of its paint;



After supper it'll have been under the lamps for about 3 hours, so it'll get installed the same way; ('cause it didn't hurt me and went pretty smooth ) - next I'll need to figure out what to do with those incredibly cheesy "winches" HF uses to raise/lower the beam; they're already slipping... Steve

 

[dragoneggs]

Seeing your IR heat lamps, I am now kicking myself for giving Goodwill my old one inherited from my parents. Had a nice clamp and why in the heck didn't I think of using it for small paint projects! :mur: Seems I always come up with a need for a junky thing as soon donate it.

Wife just said, 'I told you so'... again.

 

[BukitCase]

I keep 4 of the 250W white IR's for use on this "light bar", these
Amazon.com: Woods 15-Watt Brooder Clamp Lamp With Porcelain Socket (6-Foot, 18/2 Gauge): Home Improvement
work just fine, they're ceramic so I just ignore their "150 watt" rating - I also took a couple pieces of scrap 3/4 ply and added a 12" lazy suzan bearing, whole thing sits on that table (with its scrap plywood cover) - that way, smaller parts (like my ever-burgeoning supply of "tinker toys") can get rotated as I spray, then a small piece of scrap steel wedged against the "susan" so it stays where I put it while curing...

The wider shot of those lamps (deleted, unfortunately) showed my "overkill" support, consisting of a piece of 1" conduit supported by a pair of 3 ton "under-hoist safety stands" - those let me "dial in" the lamp distance anywhere I want it. Maybe overkill, but the adjustment range ROCKS... Steve

Forgot to mention the use of an IR temp gun; most rattle can paints seem to do well anywhere from 80 to 100 degrees (F) - so colder than that and I lower the lamps, higher than 100 and I'll raise 'em a bit - not quite PID control, but I'm retired from that crap now :laughing:

 

[dragoneggs]

Making a little foldable 'heat' box with lazy Susan maybe with some nail/pins and an overhead hanger for parts makes a lot of sense. I would line with old sheets that are easily replaceable and a rear vent. I smell another project for the list. Where is that darn list though... it's long enough but I still can't find it.