Chain Saw Advice

[SnowRidge]

I have seen the results of someone dropping a douglas fir smack down the middle of a brand new pickup. I don't recommend testing your ROPS/FOPS that way. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[SkagitStan]

I've got a ~15 year old Stihl 024 w/18" bar, and just recently also got a Stihl MS260 w/20" bar. The old guy has seen a lot of use and is getting kinda cranky.

Our new property still needs a LOT of alder clearing, and I just don't think the 024 was up to it anymore. But it sure was a good saw up until a year or so ago.

I'm putting the 024 out to pasture, and will keep it as a backup, or for when I'm being stupid and get the new one's bar jammed in a cut. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

I'm a bit leery about pulling a tree down with the tractor and chain.

If you're not real sure where the tree is going to drop, or that it'll follow your pull, and that it won't knock down something else in your path that method sounds scary to me. I can see the tractor getting one heck of a yank. And you're pretty much limiting any fast excape routes you might have.

If the tree is big enough to do damage, and you don't know where it's going to go, and also have a few escape routes planned, better call in the pros.

 

[EddieWalker]

Actually it's really easy with the backhoe.

Some trees have a natural lean to them and if that's the case and it's leaning where I want it, then that's what I'll do.

Decide where you want it to fall.

Back up to the tree 90 degrees of that point. Dig a trench on either side of the tree as clost to the trunk as you can. Sometimes I have to start way out because of one super thick root that I can't get through. Than I work my way in towards the tree. I only need to get under the root ball and depending on the tree, I might underct it some.

Do this on both sides of the tree. The deeper the better, but after you pass the root ball, it's not really that important.

The other tow sides still have roots holding the tree up. It won't go anyplace.

On smaller trees or certain types, I can push the tree over with by hoe stick from the side. This is only works on smaller trees and sweet gums.

Change position to the oposite side you want the tree to fall.

Reach up with your bucket and give it a gentle push. Sometimes I use the bucket curled up and the preasure of opening it will be enough to get it going. If not, try down lower and work your way up.

If its still not going, than dig a shallow trench on either side of the tree. This time you don't need to go as far down, just cut off the roots that are holding the tree up.

Then try pushing it again.

The trees don't just fall over, even with the dirt removed from all four sides, they are still held inplace by the dirt creating a suction on the bottom of the root ball.

I've never come across a tree that I couldn't get out, but the really big ones definetly have a pucker factor to them!!!

The most dangerous ones I've come across are the small saplings. They have a way of twisting around and coming right back at me. I've had them bust my knuckles, swat my arms, face and even come from behind and get me.

Start small and build up your skills. Once you see how much easier it is to get the entire tree and stump up at one time, you'll never go back to cutting them down and digging up the stump on it's own.

Eddie

 

[Youare]

With a 16" bar you can cut down a 40" diameter tree, I would guess that would cover almost all your needs. With that much wood to cut I would look at the "professional" grade of saws, they tend to be a little ligther for the horsepower. A 16" bar will allow a larger saw to cut much faster as there is less chain drag than an 18" or 20" bar.

I would becareful pulling trees over once you have cut part way through, the tre length may excede the chain length or distance you are away from the top of the tree when it contacts the ground or you if you are too close.

The best and safest methods can be found by doing a search on the Internet for "directional felling". This will give you much greater control of the whole felling process and keep you out of hams way.

Go at it until you get tired and then stop and rest. More accidents happen when you get tired.

Randy

 

[SPIKER]

pulling ANY tree over is dangerous more so than simply felling it correctly. lots of info available for that on-line and at sites such as the FORESTRY FOURM and you can probably sell some of the lumber much easier.

I would first off suggest investing in some help that knows what they are doig a forester to come out & look at the site & trees tell you which ones to cut for firewood & which ones to leave for timber. and or have timber cruiser come out & do a select cutting and leave some of the nice ones for wind breaks & to keep the property nice.

nothing I hate more than some dang city slicker comming out into the country buying a nice wooded property then cutting it all down cause the trees were there! ? there are plenty of pasture / tillable land that is already cleared for these dorks to use yet they pay top buck then clear out all the woods & habitat & wild life for a 10 acre lawn!?!?!?


anyhow as for chainsaw lots of good ones going. less expensive stuff that works well are the poulans/craftsman & homlites then move up to the echos & cubs and then to the top 2 already mentioned a bunch.

you choose more $ does = better saw in this case, but how much saw do YOU need? proablay a pro modle in the poulan line is more than adiquite, the top 3 brands are more profesional use. something you probably don't need?
keep good gas in them and make sure to keep a sharp chain on them and a good file for touch ups. every tank ful you should touch up the chain one or two times to keep best edge and least wear on saw. no need for a high buck sharpener in you're case for sure, HF has one in the 49 buck range but a file is probably all you need if done right. chains are 15~20 bucks each. and many outdoorgarden stores will sharpen em right for 2~5 bucks ea.

lotsof good info in the saw companies web sites look for maintenance and tune ups for each brand you may look at buying. this info is redily available too so read up look at close dealer support and all that.


I have 2 poulan homeowner saws one for 5+ yrs which has had heck used out of it runs like a top still starts 2~3 pulls even when COLD & first pull when warm. I keep em clean take care of em and make sure that I sharpen the chain and keep good gas in them always stored FULL and will oil in the res too one leaks a bit (very little) and the full fuel/mix keeps them from drying out. I do use mine once twice every few months and that is about it I have 22 acres 10 of which is wooded with last 2 yrs being bad storm damage and I still have a load to cut as time permits.

mark M

 

[escavader]

STIHL,HUSKY, JONNSRED,DOMAR ,all good choices.The most important is service after the sale.Buy at a local saw shop,pick one that you feel you can handle.One more thought,a longer bar isnt alot more weight,and it saves on your back.As ststed safety equipment.A cant dog is helpful.Keep your little saw,it may get you out if you pinch your new one
ALAN

 

[KubotainNH]

I agree with Eddie, get the Stihl fixed. At the least you can use it for small stuff and get a bigger one for the large tasks. All it probably needs is a new plug, fuel/air filter and carb cleaning. Maybe just a new plug. There's not much to a 2 cycle motor and when the plug fouls it usually needs to be replaced.

 

[RalphVa]

I've a Stihl 009L that's 36 years old with 12" and 14" bars. It still starts reasonably easy. In cold weather, spray ether into it on full choke, pull once (usually fires), then half choke and another shot of ether. Often starts first pull on half choke. Sometimes takes maybe a half dozen, but the 009L is easy to pull, not like some 20" and bigger ones I've borrowed.

You have TO BE SURE to run the tank and carb empty of fuel EVERY TIME you use the 009L (believe it or not as of about 2 years ago, I saw them on the shelf for a tad LESS than what I paid 36 years ago). ONE TIME, I didn't run mine empty and had a whale of a time getting it started the next time. Its only other fault is the oil will run out quicker than the gas; so, I only fill the fule tank no more than 1/2 full. Think the only parts I've ever bought for it are a couple spark plugs and some chains and an extra bar.

Recently had to cut a tree that was too big for my 009L. Borrowed a friend's fairly new Stihl that's about a 20-22". It started really easy, virtually the first pull. My wife picked it up from him in front of Gold's Gym. He showed her how to start it by just drop starting it. I couldn't do that. Had to set it on the ground to pull start it.

Rented a 26" saw (don't remember what the brand was). ALMOST couldn't pull start it. TOO STIFF.

My philosophy is buy the little 12" saw. Rent if you need a bigger one. The little saw is a whole lot lighter for limb and general duty work.

Ralph

 

[Jstpssng]

jeffinsgf, the problems you're having may be related to the age of the saw, not the brand. I've been told that newer carbs are a lot less tolerant of old gas; defined as older than 1 month. I've been buying Huskies for 20+ years, but wouldn't hesitate to spend money on a Stihl instead.

To the original poster; you've gotten plenty of good advice about saws, I won't add to it. However if you would prefer to have someone else do the work you can negotiiate to have the slash chipped, burned, or hauled off, in leiu of payment. As with any timber sale though, get everything in writing; and if it was me, no wood would leave the property until other terms of the contract were met.

 

[KubotainNH]

You need to be careful using ether on a 2 cycle engine, to much will ruin it because there is 0 oil lubricating the parts. Also running it dry can be bad too, when you hear the motor starting to rev because of lack of gas/oil you are running very rich with little oil but lots of heat. Best bet is run a bit of Stabil and empty the tank after it has run a couple minutes. I just wanted to make sure someone didn't start dumping a can of ether in there. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[weesa20]

Running an engine out of fuel would make it run lean, not rich. I disagree that running a small 2 stroke out of gas is bad for it. The oil is below the combustion chamber on the rings, cylinder walls, and crank and rod bearings where it continues to lubricate even if there isn't enough gas to continue running. Running the engine lean for a long time (minutes or more might be bad but generally as soon as it starts to rev 1-3 seconds, up it gets shut down to make it easier to start after fill up) I do agree on not using ether. My father has a Paulan that is 30 years old and the only thing he has had to do to it is change the recoil and rope and of course plugs over the years. Still a great saw, it has cut LOTS of wood over the years, most of which a split and stacked! He has always run the saw out of gas with no problems.

Please do not pull half cut trees down...that is an accident waiting to happen.

W

 

[weesa20]

Now for some recs:
Go to the stores and try all the saws out. You are probably going to want something with a 16" bar in a small to medium displacement because bigger displacements, generally, will be harder to pull because of greater compression and bigger engine internals. Look for safety features and anti-kick bars and chains. Look for ease of adjusting the chain tension and refilling gas and bar oil reservoirs as this can save time throughout the day. Make sure you hold them and make sure it is comfortable in terms of hand placement and hold it on its side as if you were felling a tree. Also, try to start them if you can because the amount and strength of vibrations of different brands can be huge.

W

 

[Renze]

After reading about new carburators being less tolerable on gas, i havent read any about the ASPEN synthetic fuel sold by Husqvarna dealers here in Holland.

My brother swears by it as it allways gives the correct oil mix ratio and the oil doesnt settle from the gas when the fuel jar is left on a shelf for a month.

My neighbor, also a chainsaw, and wood stove enthusiast, wore out his new Husqvarna chainsaw in about 3 to 4 years, as he cuts a good 2 truckloads of firewood each year.
He used ASPEN just to empty the jar he bought, and says he got a headache of the exhaust fumes and insists on home mixed 2 stroke mixture.

Do these synthetic fuels really make a difference ?

BTW my Husqvarna 141 is still sitting on the shelf in my workshop, with new cylinder/piston repair kit in the box since last winter... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I just cant find the time to assemble it, clean out that workshop first because i decided i can no longer work in that junkheap... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif


...Oh, and can anyone agree that it is essential to spray some WD40 on bearings and piston during assembly, before the first time firing it up with a new piston kit ?

 

[EddieWalker]

Renze,

I have no idea of what your talking about. Synthetic fuel??

It always makes me wonder what else they have out there. We're starting to see some mixes of fuel with various organic sources, but nothing that's called synthetic.

I even wonder if you have the same type of gasaline as us, but doubt it since we have diverent formulas in different states. California adds MTB to their gas to cut down on air polution, but now it's proven to be poisoning the underground water table. Go figure.

Eddie

 

[CurlyDave]

nothing I hate more than some dang city slicker comming out into the country buying a nice wooded property then cutting it all down cause the trees were there! here are plenty of pasture / tillable land that is already cleared for these dorks to use yet they pay top buck then clear out all the woods & habitat & wild life for a 10 acre lawn!?!?!?

Since you probably directed that comment at me, let me explain a few things to you.

You haven't seen my property and have no idea what you are talking about. I have 40 acres, most of it 15% slope or more on the north face of Bolt Mountain. There are precisely zero acres of pasture/tillable land. There might be 200 square feet of garden plot somewhere, but it is scattered pretty thoroughly over the 40 acres.

The soil is rock & decomposed granite. The land was logged over 60 years ago and in some places there is some fairly nice second growth, but 2/3 of it is scrub oak, manzanita, and a few madrones. There might be 2-300 fairly nice pine/fir/cedars, and I doubt I am going to cut more than 3 or 4 of them, and only for the purpose of a driveway & homesite.

The homesite is going in an area of scrub oak, manzanita and one or two pines.

The stuff I am going to cut down is primarily scrub oak -- a lot of it dead scrub oak. I am not intending on selling any timber. I might trade some firewood to someone interested in clearing the stuff I want to get rid of.

We haven't even started building the house -- right now my project is to cut down 6-8 oaks to make a clearing to park our motorhome for a place to stay while we get the home built.

It is in my best interest to preserve the value of this property. The folks we bought it from live 2 lots over and wanted to build on exactly the same spot we are intending. They had owned the land for 60 years and studied the land for most of that time. They realized last year that they were not ever going to be able to build, and for personal financial reasons sold the land, and were quite happy to get the price we paid, which is going to make their retirement a lot easier.

This is not agricultural land -- the state of Oregon doesn't even think it is very good forest land, they put it in their lowest category.

What the land is good for is a nice retirement home with a view. And the people who sold it were more than happy to have the money we paid for it.

I am devoting a lot of thought to developing the homesite without scarring the land, cutting down anything I don't have to, or creating an eyesore I have to live with.

I am certain that you view me as a "city slicker", but this land is going to get developed by someone with or without me. My intention is to develop one homesite & preserve as much of the habitat and natural beauty as possible.

That way, I get to enjoy it, while creating a much more valuable piece of property.

 

[Renze]

Eddie i was in the workshop today and read the jar.
It said acrylic 2-stroke fuel.
Exhaust fumes smell like the fumes of burning PVC. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
Husqvarna dealers sell it. it is more expensive than a custom mixture you buy from the gas shop in town.

 

[RFB]

Curly Dave,

I cannot apologize for the words or actions of another, but it is too bad that you had to hear that, particularly being new here.

I have heard the arbitrary "you are new here" and "you are not a local" enough to see through it. It is just a thin veneer over a very liberal mindset that simply tries to say "I want to make the rules for your private property".

Good reply, and the bottom line is that you own it, and private property (and the rights to use it as you see fit) is a value that
transcends a lot of "We were here firstism".

 

[SnoFalls]

Curlydave,

I don't think that post was directed at *you* ... probably more aligned to the trends that are occuring.

Aka, "city folk" buy 10 ac out in the wilds, rape it clean, and then a neighbor does the same, then another, and now rather than the "wild" that they all sought, it has become a "clear cut" with homes.

Go to your library and check out this book. In grants pass, it might not be "tailored" to your zone as it is for me, but the concepts apply. It's a "balance" for your needs on the property and that of wildlife/nature to keep pests/weeds/etc in check. Your local extension service and "conservation" agencies can also be a great service.

I like that birds that thrive on mosquitos/flies/etc that I feed, give haibtat to, etc THRIVE ... guess what, I have no mosquito/fly/etc problems!

 

[CurlyDave]

Thanks, I will get the book, although my intent is to sit pretty lightly on the land.

In 40 acres we will have our home, a fairly large shop, a place to park a motorhome and maybe a 1 bedroom guest house. Ok, there is also the well house and the septic field, but that is about it.

After the home is built, the main uses for the tractor are going to be building the shop and improving a the old logging roads so we can get access to most of the property.

We have 2 springs, a herd of deer, a flock of wild turkeys and a bunch of smaller wildlife.

The only things I intend to try to wipe out are poison oak (good luck on that one) and the hornet nests too close to the roads.

Even with the two springs, we don't currently have a mosquito problem.

The back property line borders a square mile or so of BLM land. Whatever they do, which right now is absolutely nothing, is going to dominate the wildlife situation. My puny few acres pales in comparison to their holdings. Fortunately, the property gets steep enough that there is considerable scrambling to even get to the BLM border, so I doubt there will be many casual hikers and hunters coming in that way.

SPIKER didn't even get close to the real environmental issue, which is persistent rumors of gold on the land. My curiosity will probably get the better of me and I will do a little prospecting, but if we find anything I will have a horrible dilemma. As much as I would like to own a gold mine, I sure don't want to live near one...

 

[MarkV]

Hi Dave, sounds like you have a nice place to start the retirement home. As far as the trees that need to be removed I would also suggest you try dropping them as a whole like Eddie suggested. Your 110 is more than capable and once you get the hang of it dropping the tree and stump at once is much faster than cutting and digging the stump. I’ll go as far as to say I often feel safer with this method than I do cutting and dropping a tree with a saw.

My method has been to dig a trench on the side I want the tree to fall and then reposition the tractor to the opposite side and dig trenches perpendicular to the first. That leaves me three sides dug and the tractor on the side that has not been dug. Most of the time I can now reach up with the backhoe and push the tree slowly over. On occasions the undug side of the tree will need a shallow dig to break a major root. What I watch for the most is whether the tree can get hung in adjoining trees branches enough to change the direction of the intended fall. Of course that is a dangerous if not more dangerous situation when you are on the ground with a saw also.

I’ve used this method for years with out a tree heading the wrong way. Give it a try on some trees that you feel comfortable with and see what you think.

MarkV