Chain Saw Advice

   / Chain Saw Advice #11  
If you browse around to the Oregon, Madsen's, Stihl and Husky sites you can find a lot of info for the downloading on chainsaw use and chain and chainsaw maintenance.
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #12  
You didn't mention what size trees you're planning to cut. I wouldn't advise tackling the big ones until you get a little time on your saw.

If I were you, I'd get a suitably-sized chain saw (you've got lots of good advice from others in this thread on that score) and practice using it on some firewood or on a few of your smallest trees (less than 4" diameter). That way you'll learn your saw's peculiarities and won't be so surprised when something unexpected happens when felling the big ones.

You might also want to check the Safety forum for info on chain saw accidents. Seeing the pictures makes you a believer in chain saw safety precautions.
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #14  
How about selling the timber to a timber company.. they'll come in and do all the work.. you get to relax.. and count your money. Then you can buy a nice chainsaw.. and still have all the leftovers to cut up for firewood.
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #15  
I hate stumps and I'm afraid of chain saws. I like to dig out the tree with my backhoe and take it all out at once. Since this isn't an option for you, I'd learn how to fell them without relying on the chain on the tractor method. This just has disaster all over it.

My reasoning is from seeing trees twist while dropping and fall in the wrong place. Not to mention when they go the oposite way. The chain being tied to the tractor seems like an oportunity for the tractor and/or operator to get hurt if a tree does what trees sometimes do.

As to your Stihl chainsaw. Have you taken it in to a shop to see if it's repairable??? Stihl is a top of the line brand and since it's only been sitting for awhile, it probably just needs a good tune up.

I've always wanted a small chainsaw for cutting limbs off trees and smaller jobs. Since you already have a small one, maybe another saw for the big stuff??

I don't do allot of chainsaw work but when I need one, it's really nice to know it will be there. I had a Husqavarna that I hated. After a few years it died on me and wouldn't start at all. The repair shop said the motor didn't have any compresion and it would cost more to rebuild than replace. I threw it away and bought a Poulon Pro from Lowes. It's considered a lesser brand than Stihl, Husqavarna or Echo, but it's also half price and it works great!!!

Good luck and be safe!!
Eddie
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #16  
Follow-up to my previous post---

I'm an old geezer like you and don't have much experience with chain saws. Read enough about chain saw safety to make me a believer in wearing protective armor and a face mask.

Last summer I had a chore to remove a dozen 3-4ft tall stumps from what remains of my almond orchard. Went through the same tradeoffs you're making now and here's what I decided is best for me.

Bought a Remington electric chain saw (about $70) with a 16" bar (117 VAC, 11.5 amps). Reason: don't like little gas engines 3 feet from my face (noise, vibration, smells bad). And this saw is really light weight, a plus for a senior citizen like myself.

Used that saw to cut the stumps, some of them over a foot in diameter. No problem. Just take your time and let the saw do the work.

Fortunately the stumps were close enough to the well house where I had provided a 117V weatherproof duplex receptacle for this type of situation. I could reach the stumps with about 100 feet of extension cord.

If necessary I could have used my Coleman Powermate electric generator (117 VAC, 25 amps, $350 at Home Depot) to run the saw. That way I could keep the gas engine noise away from myself and work in relative comfort.

Just some ideas and alternatives.
 
   / Chain Saw Advice
  • Thread Starter
#17  
I like to dig out the tree with my backhoe and take it all out at once.

Eddie:

Actually this is an option. The problem I have is the safety issue of digging out the entire 40' tall tree with the backhoe. Yes, I have a ROPS/FOPS, but how do you absolutely prevent the tree from falling on the machine ?

I have snapped a few small ones off near the base with a chain, and digging out the stumps, a major root always surprises me with what direction it is going.

I just don't see how to dig out the entire tree without getting into a real crapshoot as to where & when it will fall.

Dave

P.S. Love your projects.
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #18  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How about selling the timber to a timber company.. they'll come in and do all the work.. you get to relax.. and count your money. Then you can buy a nice chainsaw.. and still have all the leftovers to cut up for firewood. )</font>
I sold 200+ trees to a timber company. What a mess they left! They only wanted the trunk of the tree - branches, stumps, etc were left behind. Thank goodness for my Stihl chainsaw!
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #19  
Has nothing to do with Husky vs Stihl (the hard start that is) but has a lot to do with one needing a tune-up. MY Stihl's start right away, and the brush cutter, two chain saws, and pole saw have been flawless, one for 31 years now. But I keep them with good gas and tuned (not saying you don't, but any 2cycle engines can be troublesome regardless of brand). No need to turn this into a brand war, is there? I won't say anything about my experience with the Husky brand. Fair enough? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #20  
A lot of chainsaw sites have good information about procedures to bring down trees as safely as possible. Heads-up at all times is however important, as no two trees are alike, nor behave alike. Some practice with someone who is knowledgable (or at least two heads better than one) is a good idea, IMO. Sounds like you are on a good track.
 

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