Bottom Plow

/ Bottom Plow #1  

lakngulf

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2009
Messages
1,096
Location
Lake Martin Alabama
Tractor
Kioti CK30
I have concluded that I need either a bottom plow or a tiller to do a better job with food plots. I have good heavy duty Howse 66" Disc but it cannot break through the pasture areas of heavy bermuda and fescue grass.

The price of a tiller, and the thought of moving parts, and the relatively small usage, has led me away from that option. I possibly could be swayed, however.

The idea of a bottom plow to initially turn the soil is appealing. If I go this option what would you recommend for a Kioti CK30 gear? What should I look for? What should I avoid?
 
/ Bottom Plow #2  
I'd suggest a one-bottom plow that the Kioti should be able to handle easily. Either 14 or 16" bottom.
A 2 bottom with 14" plows would possibly work as well.

I agree that your thought of a moldboard plow followed by your Hose disc will work up your planting ground nicely.

I picked up a 60" tiller for $500 and it has been working great for my food plots. I wish the deer liked the "food" better than they apparently do at this time. Three different clovers that came up nicely, but don't seem to interest the deer.
 
/ Bottom Plow #3  
A tiller is not going to break thru sod....need to plow first....even and inexpensive single bottom(Tractor supply ($130.00) some-times called a potatoe plow....THEN TILL with roto-tiller.I do 10 acres a year;works for me.
I have found on small tractors a tiller does a lot better than discs.One pass on plowed ground with a tiller.....4 with a disc.
 
/ Bottom Plow #4  
I have concluded that I need either a bottom plow or a tiller to do a better job with food plots. I have good heavy duty Howse 66" Disc but it cannot break through the pasture areas of heavy bermuda and fescue grass.

The price of a tiller, and the thought of moving parts, and the relatively small usage, has led me away from that option. I possibly could be swayed, however.

The idea of a bottom plow to initially turn the soil is appealing. If I go this option what would you recommend for a Kioti CK30 gear? What should I look for? What should I avoid?

Either of these plows should workout nicely on that tractor. Both are set up as 2-12 auto trip beams. $495 choice. One is a John Deere and the other is a Oliver. Ken Sweet
 

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/ Bottom Plow #5  
A tiller is not going to break thru sod....need to plow first....

I disagree and currently have the garden to prove it. Go slow, adjust the depth on multiple passes, eventually till to full depth. have done this hundreds of times, multiple locations. I put in gardens for friends and family everywhere I have ever lived and have always followed the same process. I have never had my areas plowed before tilling. I've been tilling gardens since I was a kid, and we always did it the same way everytime. Now, for a very large area over several acres, this system will still work but would not be advisable unless you are retired and have nothing better to do. Then I would suggest following nybirdman's advice. I would say an acre or two isn't too large to do my way.

Another idea may be to use the scarifiers on a box blade prior to tilling. IF you have the BB it might save a couple of dollars. I don't know about you, but I don't have a money tree in my backyard.
 
/ Bottom Plow #6  
When I plow, I plow about 8-10 inches deep. Will a tiller work that deep? Ken Sweet
 
/ Bottom Plow #7  
When I plow, I plow about 8-10 inches deep. Will a tiller work that deep? Ken Sweet

If you have the right tiller and a big enough machine to use it. :laughing:
Probably not going to work for this guy though. :(
 
/ Bottom Plow #9  
When I plow, I plow about 8-10 inches deep. Will a tiller work that deep? Ken Sweet

not 10 and likely not 8 depending on tiller/angle of tiller. When I till, my soil is like powder when done and I love it. I do a lot of mound planting, so when I mound I have about a foot+ of powder soil I am planting in. I know a plow isn't doing that. IF your good you flip your soil all the way over with a plow, if your not good you ran a hunk of metal 8-10 inches into the ground. at the end of the harvest season, my tiller will outwork any plow for putting under all those plants and reject vegies (in a small area). As they say, economy of scale and all that.

Don't get me wrong, I am not against plows by any means. I am actually still looking for an el cheapo 2 or 3 bottom (remove the third) so that in about another 8 years or so I can bust up the hardpan from the tiller. Until then I am fine.
 
/ Bottom Plow #10  
not 10 and likely not 8 depending on tiller/angle of tiller. When I till, my soil is like powder when done and I love it. I do a lot of mound planting, so when I mound I have about a foot+ of powder soil I am planting in. I know a plow isn't doing that. IF your good you flip your soil all the way over with a plow, if your not good you ran a hunk of metal 8-10 inches into the ground. at the end of the harvest season, my tiller will outwork any plow for putting under all those plants and reject vegies (in a small area). As they say, economy of scale and all that.

Don't get me wrong, I am not against plows by any means. I am actually still looking for an el cheapo 2 or 3 bottom (remove the third) so that in about another 8 years or so I can bust up the hardpan from the tiller. Until then I am fine.

A Subsoiler would also breakup the hard pan. Ken Sweet
 
/ Bottom Plow #11  
A Subsoiler would also breakup the hard pan. Ken Sweet

I *rented* one from tractor supply, the subsoiler barely went into the ground. It went back to TSC the next day. I have read on TBN about people using subsoilers, but they must have smaller sized tractors. Either that, or I would need to find a different subsoiler.
 
/ Bottom Plow #12  
There are subsoilers, and then there are "wanna be" subsoilers. :D

And correct adjustment is most important, as well as point of pull and point of push to make a subsoiler work. Might be the simplest tool for the 3ph that requires the most adjustment of any to get it to work.
 
/ Bottom Plow #13  
Hello Everyone:

I have a CK35 and land in northern Minnesota. I have tried all the attachments you been discussing. I borrowed a 2 bottom plow from a friend and found that not to be practical because of all the tree roots, stumps etc. I ended up buying a sub-soiler (heavy duty) and mounted a 12" potato blade on it replacing the chisel. (Which I still use from-time-to-time) The sub-soiler works great for ripping up the roots, sod, old stumps etc. After cleaning up the roots etc. I go over it with a 60" JD tiller I purchase off of Craigslist. Over all the tiller works best for all rework applications, but when opening new ground start with a sub-soiler. I beleive the tiller will go down 6", but for my planting needs that's more than enough. I plant Clover, Rye,Winter wheat, and a few other goodies. I love my CK35.
 
/ Bottom Plow #14  
Hello Everyone:

I have a CK35 and land in northern Minnesota. I have tried all the attachments you been discussing. I borrowed a 2 bottom plow from a friend and found that not to be practical because of all the tree roots, stumps etc. I ended up buying a sub-soiler (heavy duty) and mounted a 12" potato blade on it replacing the chisel. (Which I still use from-time-to-time) The sub-soiler works great for ripping up the roots, sod, old stumps etc. After cleaning up the roots etc. I go over it with a 60" JD tiller I purchase off of Craigslist. Over all the tiller works best for all rework applications, but when opening new ground start with a sub-soiler. I beleive the tiller will go down 6", but for my planting needs that's more than enough. I plant Clover, Rye,Winter wheat, and a few other goodies. I love my CK35.

A tool like this was designed for "New Ground" and lots of top growth. Plowing without clogging and also cuts the roots into short sections. $695. Ken Sweet
 

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/ Bottom Plow #17  
It helps to slow down the packing of the hard pan. In addition, by working the soil this deep, you will eventually have top soil that deep. That is a real good thing. Ken Sweet

I guess it makes sense. But here in Iowa, the dirt is black as toby's (you know what). I only go that deep on first turn on virgin land to get the grasses turned under to decay. Got a 6' tiller now, so plow doesn't get used alot unless someone requests it.
 
/ Bottom Plow #18  
I guess it makes sense. But here in Iowa, the dirt is black as toby's (you know what). I only go that deep on first turn on virgin land to get the grasses turned under to decay. Got a 6' tiller now, so plow doesn't get used alot unless someone requests it.

So, you are fine with topsoil, just watch compaction. That usually occurs deep in the soil (1ft-2 ft) Ken Sweet
 
/ Bottom Plow #19  
I purchased a new 5 shank chisel plow 4ft for $459 from a local dealer. I can not recall the brand. After the purchase I went out and worked about 2 acres (which has not been plowed for about 3 years). Worked out great.

I then worked about a 20x60 spot at my house for bluebonnets. The chisel plow worked alot better than I expected. It ran about 4-6" deep when pulling in low range.

I'll go back this weekend and run over it with a disc. I'll also try to snap a few pictures of it and find the brand.

Only bad thing is that is is Red; but a little JD Green spray paint should fix it right up.
 
/ Bottom Plow #20  
Check out everythingattachments.com
 

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