Bar oil quality

[4570Man]

I generally run the cheapest bar oil I can find for $5-6 a gallon. I’m 100 percent certain that more expensive and potentially better bar oil can’t save enough wear to make up for being double the price. In the absence of having any bar oil I’ve used hydraulic oil, gear oil, new motor oil, and transmission fluid. They all seem to get the job done. Just recently I put 2 tanks of used motor oil through the saw before I didn’t have anything else. That makes an awful mess. The outside of the saw is covered in black oil from spilling it, the clutch cover is packed with black sawdust, the bar is covered in black oil, and my vehicle is covered in black oil from leakage. I definitely don’t recommend that approach.

 

[PILOON]

I often wonder what a person could use as an additive to make oils tacky like in chain oil.
I do know that they have a chain lube that is great for motorcycles and would work for saws as well.
Might it be as simple as sugar?
Oil is oil and it lubes except it just need to 'cling' for saws (and other chain applications)
Anybody have ideas?

 

[5030]

Maybe a can of STP oil additive mixed in. That stuff is like honey.

 

[BUXFAN1911]

It's all about the math for me. I buy the $6/gallon stuff from TSC and usually get 8 gallons ($48) through the saw before I replace the bar. A new bar costs $50. If I spent $12+ on oil, my bar would have to last through 16 gallons ($192) before I replace my bar to achieve the same "value" out of my bar life.

IMO it's a better value to use the cheapest oil and replace the bar when required. I notice no difference when cutting between high dollar synthetics and the cheap dino stuff so I let the math dictate what I buy.

I understand the used motor oil guys - but personally I don't want used motor oil flung all over my forest.

 

[ArlyA]

I often wonder what a person could use as an additive to make oils tacky like in chain oil.
I do know that they have a chain lube that is great for motorcycles and would work for saws as well.
Might it be as simple as sugar?
Oil is oil and it lubes except it just need to 'cling' for saws (and other chain applications)
Anybody have ideas?

No, it certainty isn't sugar. I read a book on the history of the petroleum industry and parts of it was how the chemical engineering types had fixed this or changed than in petroleum for the past 150 years. The oil products we use today are very much customized to work for this or that. Since one gallon of Stihl oil costs 1.5 chains,,,, I'll use it.

 

[ptsg]

I just use old hydraulic oil or leftover engine oil for the bar oil and never had any issues or increased wear on the chain or bar. As long as it has some sort of oil, it'll be fine.

 

[MAX-24-Dean]

The last jug of bar oil I bought is labeled 30W with an additive for better adherence.

In the 1960's 30 weight was used locally for bar oil, mixed with 5 to 10 % Rapeseed oil (now called Canola oil) as a tackifier. They had to mix it when the weather was warm.
Everyone I know just uses bar oil nowdays. I buy my bar oil at Bi-mart when on sale. Bi-Mart is a Pacific Northwest chain store.

 

[AchingBack]

In the 1960's 30 weight was used locally for bar oil, mixed with 5 to 10 % Rapeseed oil (now called Canola oil) as a tackifier. They had to mix it when the weather was warm.
Everyone I know just uses bar oil nowdays. I buy my bar oil at Bi-mart when on sale. Bi-Mart is a Pacific Northwest chain store.

Great store. Been a member since 1976. This product doesn't flow well in lower temps. Perhaps adding a bit of lighter weight oil would help. Almost ruined bar and chain on my 18" EGO saw before I realized it wasn't flowing well. When I noticed burn marks on the log I was sawing, I knew there was a problem.

 

[John_Mc]

I mix any bar oil with used motor oil. My Husky binds at the tip if i use straight bar oil.

If you are binding at the tip, you've got some other problem than using straight bar oil. Possibly running the chain too tight or pinched your bar. Simply running straight bar oil does not cause that problem. If it did, thousands of people would be having problems with binding tips.

I used motor oil in my old craftsman for years and did wear the bar so much that it would not cut straight.

Used motor oil can cause accelerated wear (that's also the reason you change the oil in that engine periodically). A chainsaw cutting on the curve could be indicative of a sharpening problem - or failing to sharpen your chain frequently enough, particularly if you nicked something which damaged the teeth on one side of your chain. Those chain problems can cause cutting on the curve on their own, or they can also cause uneven wear of your bar rails, which will "aim" your chain to cut on a curve.

Also dirty used oil makes a mess of the saw.

It also can work a number on your oil pump.

If it wasn't for the problem of vegetable based oil gumming up the chain and oil system if it's left in the saw for too long I'd try it.

I'm required to use veggie-based oil on one property where I cut regularly, so I've just taken to using it all the time. It's not cheap, but it does lubricate better than the petroleum-based oils. In the early days of using this oil, I had problems with it stiffening up and gumming up the chain if the saw sat for an extended period. Sometimes it would take a shot of WD-40 or something to get it moving again. Back in those days, I'd run a bit of petroleum based oil through the saw when I was done if I would not be using it again for a while.

Lately, I've been using the Stihl Bio-Blend bar oil. It's basically a canola oil-based product. I've not had any problems with that stiffening up if it sits for a while on the chain.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Just add motor honey to used oil.

 

[newbury]

My Dad taught me to set the oiler so you'd fling some off the tip. Back about 2009 I was doing a bit of CSM. My 60CC JD w/28" or 42" would fling fine, my small Stihl would fling fine. My Stihl 660's wouldn't fling worth a darn with bars over 20" and non-Stihl chain no matter how far one turned up the oiler. Seems the EPA had set some rules and Stihl had changed the oilers they distributed in the US versions. Aussie 660's would fling fine up to 42" if you turned the oiler up.
I bought 2 Stihl HO oilers, now my 660's fling off my 42" bar.
I don't want to burn up a $100 bar.

 

[ruffdog]

Some saws came with different capacity oil pumps. The pacific NW full wrap Stihl MS460's came with a higher output pump than the 1/2 wrap saws. I upgraded my MS460 to the higher output pump and installed the old one into my MS361 which boosted that to higher output.

 

[ericm979]

If you can find the part numbers and the parts you can buy a higher output piston and stop for many Stihl oil pumps. I did that for my 460 as it did not put out enough oil for a 32" bar that I use for big trees. The one problem with that is that if you turn the oiler up to high you may run out of oil before running out of fuel.

 

[Doughknob]

If you are binding at the tip, you've got some other problem than using straight bar oil. Possibly running the chain too tight or pinched your bar. Simply running straight bar oil does not cause that problem. If it did, thousands of people would be having problems with binding tips.



A chainsaw cutting on the curve could be indicative of a sharpening problem - or failing to sharpen your chain frequently enough, particularly if you knicked something which damaged the teeth on one side of your chain. Those chain problems can caus cuting on the curve on their own, or they can also cause uneven wear of your bar rails, which will "aim" your chain to cut on a curve.

If you are binding at the tip, you've got some other problem than using straight bar oil. Possibly running the chain too tight or pinched your bar. Simply running straight bar oil does not cause that problem. If it did, thousands of people would be having problems with binding tips.



Used motor oil can cause accelerated wear (that's also the reason you change the oil in that engine periodically). A chainsaw cutting on the curve could be indicative of a sharpening problem - or failing to sharpen your chain frequently enough, particularly if you knicked something which damaged the teeth on one side of your chain. Those chain problems can caus cuting on the curve on their own, or they can also cause uneven wear of your bar rails, which will "aim" your chain to cut on a curve.


It also can work a number on your oil pump.



I'm required to use veggie-based oil on one property where I cut regularly, so I've just taken to using it all the time. It's not cheap, but it does lubricate better than the petroleum-based oils. In the early days of using this oil, I had problems with it stiffening up and gumming up the chain if the saw sat for an extended period. Sometimes it would take a shot of WD-40 or something to get it moving again. Back in those days, I'd run a bit of petroleum based oil through the saw when I was done if I would not be using it again for a while.

Lately, I've been using the Stihl Bio-Blend bar oil. It's basically a canola oil-based product. I've not had any problems with that stiffening up if it sits for a while on the chain.

Mine was due to the oil. I mix it now and no problems. Have changed nothing else.

Also know that my bar was worn - could see it. Not due to sharpening. Bar may have worn due to use of motor oil, but it was worn on one side of the track.

No guessing going on........

 

[Jstpssng]

I ran used engine oil for a while but didn't like the mess that it made.

 

[Oaktree]

Used motor oil can cause accelerated wear (that's also the reason you change the oil in that engine periodically). A chainsaw cutting on the curve could be indicative of a sharpening problem - or failing to sharpen your chain frequently enough, particularly if you nicked something which damaged the teeth on one side of your chain.

Another downside to used motor oil that hasn't been mentioned is that the sludge in it can plug the passages between the reservoir and the bar. Can be a real PITA to clean out. Don't ask how I learned this.

Like some others here, I'll just get whatever bar oil's on sale at Walmart or TS. I have the oil setting high enough so when I need to refuel, the oil tank needs filling too. Minimal bar wear problems.

 

[Garson]

My 346XP Pro Husqvarna has cut over 200 cords of firewood in 16" lengths, using only used engine oil. My second saw has maybe cut 100 cords. I file with an Oregon dremel style grinding sharpener and each chain functions well until it is worn down until the teeth start to break off. They cut straight till the end and the Husky's haven't had a new bar in many years. The bar tip might get a few shots of grease every 25 cords.
I have to conclude that despite all the theory about sticky chain oil being better, there seems to be no wear difference in chain oil and used engine oil. Throwing out your used engine oil and buying new chain oil seems very inefficient when for me, they do the same thing.
A frugal Canadian.

 

[puzlrock]

Worked in the woods for many years when I was younger. We always used good bar oil. It is tacks and adheres to the bar and chain giving better lubrication and longer bar and chain life, also oils the tips better. In the winter I cut it a little with kerosene. Saws run cooler and just perform better. We ran some long bars in them days. Good bar oil doesn't cost that much more for the benefits. The other stuff works in a pinch.

 

[hslogger]

I used to get my bar oil in fifty gallon drums.I was a professional. There's a reason I didn't run crapper oil in my chainsaws. Sometimes if it was really cold, I'd mix some diesel in my oil jug for the day. When falling for other outfits, I'd burn a gallon to gallon and a quarter of gas a day, pretty close to a gallon of bar oil.

You can always get by cheaper, but you can't always get by better.

 

[John_Mc]

My 346XP Pro Husqvarna has cut over 200 cords of firewood in 16" lengths, using only used engine oil. My second saw has maybe cut 100 cords. I file with an Oregon dremel style grinding sharpener and each chain functions well until it is worn down until the teeth start to break off. They cut straight till the end and the Husky's haven't had a new bar in many years. The bar tip might get a few shots of grease every 25 cords.
I have to conclude that despite all the theory about sticky chain oil being better, there seems to be no wear difference in chain oil and used engine oil. Throwing out your used engine oil and buying new chain oil seems very inefficient when for me, they do the same thing.
A frugal Canadian.

That's great, but nothing you have said about your experience gives any indication one way or the other whether the used engine oil you are using is working as well as real bar oil. The fact that your chains always cut straight are an indication that you know a thing or two about sharpening chains.