ATV Trailer build

Oldpath05 · Jan 29, 2016

If that the self shielding flux core wire then that's one reason why your weld is kinda rough, I mostly use .030, 70s solid wire with shielding gas.
Looked at the DR blue print, like how the head boards comes out. A 200lb trailer is nothing for a full size ATV and if some day you make another trailer, make a tandem axle trailer like the one DR sells, they can weigh twice as much, but will pull 4-times easier, because the front wheel will lift up over a bump instead of one wheel lifting the whole load weight going over a stump bump or rock, Ok back to work your on a budget, have to keep the cost under the $800.00 DR version.

handirifle · Jan 29, 2016

Oh I can easily beat that cost. The sheet metal and paint are all I have left to purchase. Didn't get a chance to call the sheet metal guys today, had volunteer work in the AM and a funeral in the afternoon. They are probably all closed on Sat as well. I will try to check tomorrow.

On a REAL good note, my hubs arrived today, 3 days early, so I am hoping to get on those tomorrow. I will be jazzed to have a "rolling" chassis

.

As for the welding, my little Campbell Hausfield only puts out 90 amps, on a good day, and the extra penetration with the flux wire has been helpful many times. I found out the hard way once that I was using too much gas (trying to weld outside, in the wind) and used up my whole tank. Someday I will refill it and try again. The cleanup is quite a chore with flux core for sure. It really does deserve another shot. Some of my crappy looking welds are because I cannot see the puddle at times, depending on where the ambient light is coming from. So it's only PARTLY the wires fault

. At least the grinders make em look purty.

So far I am still under $200 invested in this. Part of that is the free wheels and tires. That would most likely ad at least another $200 if I had to buy new.

Tomorrow I will test out my hub to wheel theory and see how that goes. If that does not work, I have another fairly reasonable idea as well. This one came to me yesterday, but no need to explain it unless the direct bolt on idea does not work out.

handirifle · Jan 29, 2016

Forgot to answer all your points.

In reality, this will probably be the heaviest trailer I build, for an ATV anyway, and for me. If a friend wanted one that might be another story, but I doubt it. As for the doors on the DR, I looked real close and I like the connection. The bottom hinge pins slide out the same direction, so unlatching the top and sliding the gate to the side, removes it. I will copy that too. Sorry DR. What's the old saying about imitation and flattery?

If I build me another trailer (and I might) I will make a superlight one that I can take offroading with me. Been a couple deer I have taken that were a beast to drag for 200yds. That plus getting them full of crap in doing so.

You can bone them out here in CA but it makes the checkin so much less stressful when you have the whole carcass to bring. I figure I can use the front tires and rims. Those have hubs and spindles already and will be fine for a 200lb (most likely much less) deer.

handirifle · Jan 30, 2016

OK I have a question. Now that I have the spindles, I am thinking of placing them on the bottom of the struts I welded on, and aligning them using a string from a point up front, at the end of the tongue. I plan on matching the distance from tongue to end of spindle, and tongue to back of spindle. I THINK this should suffice, am I wrong?

Is there maybe a better way to accomplish this? I am also thinking I should somehow notch the "struts" as I call them, to have more welding surface. One more thing, I have some tubing that I haven't size checked yet, but I think the spindles will fit into, in case I need to extend them out a bit for tire clearance.

I have welded axles on before, but when they are all one piece it's easier. Suggestions appreciated.

Jim Timber · Jan 30, 2016

Drill holes if you can. I don't know what you have for equipment, but if you can put a shoulder on your stub it works really nice to align the axles and hold them while welding.

handirifle · Jan 30, 2016

Well I can't really do that, unfortunately. The strut isn't wide enough. It's 2" wide and the spindle is 1.25". I have some 1.75" tubing the spindle fits snug into but it would have to be butt welded to the bottom of the spindle. I can't drill and use JUST the spindle, because then it will not stick out far enough for the tire to clear the frame, so I have to extend it about 1" anyway. I have thought of using about 4-5" of the 1.75" tubing and trying to cut a recess in the bottom of the strut, and let the tubing extend out the inside of the strut and weld my axle braces onto that. I think that is about my only option at this point.

Man those are some nice welds.

handirifle · Jan 30, 2016

OK I got a bit more done today. First off, I weighed the frame. Turns out I guessed fairly close, 95lbs. The hubs, bearings and spindles show 18lbs shipped, for the pair, so I will go with that weight. The tires and wheels weigh 17lbs each. I sent off an email for a sheet metal quote for 16ga, but might end up going with 14 for the floor. I think it was 68lbs for a 4x8 sheet, so I will go with that number as well. So, we have 95+68+ 17+17+18, so that adds up to 215lbs. Pretty close to my goal. I will weigh the sheet metal pieces before putting them on, to see how accurate my guess was.

Also, I got my wheels mounted to my hubs. Here's a few shots to gander at.

This is the wheel sitting on the hub studs. You can see how much is exposed of the studs. I simply drew the half circle or so, that I used as a guide to cut out.

Here the holes are cut and lug nuts are installed, hand tight.

Here's the back of the hub, showing the centering.

I spun the wheel while eyeing it and cannot see any out of round movement. I am sure there is some, but I doubt it will ever be noticed by me.

Jim Timber · Jan 30, 2016

Thanks!

You don't want the spindle butt welded though. Ideally, the weld would hold a mechanical attachment together. So you'd fillet weld the stub into the tube which was also inserted into the strut and fillet welded. At least that's how I do it when I can.

handirifle · Jan 30, 2016

Yes that was what I intended to say. I lose some in the terms. The tube is too large to fit "inside" the strut, so it will have to be a half moon type of cut at the bottom. I plan on having bracing on the inside of the strut, that will come from the cross brace of the bed and angled out towards the tube that the spindle will be in. This I think will provide support from forward or backward movement, as well as to resist twisting of the axle or upward movement of the wheel.

I hope I explained it well, but I will take pictures as I go.

I also installed 2 zerk fittings into the pivot axle today. I need to pick up a piece of 2" square tubing and a 1 7/8" ball coupling. That will match up to my quad, and also my log splitter.

I am really getting anxious to run this thing around behind the quad. I was figuring today, I can haul 12ft lumber or log sections in this without interfering with the quad. That would be with front and rear doors removed, of course.

handirifle · Jan 30, 2016

The trailer tongue is 1 7/8" OD, and the ball connector will be for 2" OD tubing. Would the correct wall thickness be .065" for the 2" square tubing? I am figuring 2 -1 7/8" and splitting the difference. Comes out to .062 but I think .065 is closest I will get.

Jim Timber · Jan 30, 2016

I've really enjoyed using mine in the last couple years since building it. The trailer will handle more weight than the atv will, but I can load boulders on it with the tractor and not worry about doing any damage. I was planning ahead.

Here's the build thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/woods-trailer-2-0.247169/

Jim Timber · Jan 30, 2016

handirifle said:
The trailer tongue is 1 7/8" OD, and the ball connector will be for 2" OD tubing. Would the correct wall thickness be .065" for the 2" square tubing? I am figuring 2 -1 7/8" and splitting the difference. Comes out to .062 but I think .065 is closest I will get.

What configuration is this stuff going to be? I'm not following what you're trying to say.

handirifle · Jan 31, 2016

Sorry. The trailer hitch is for 2" square tubing, and the tongue is round, so I will need to adapt the round tongue to the square hitch connector 1-7/8" x 2" Ball Coupler.

I figured using a 2" sq tube piece slid over and welded to the round tongue is the easiest to adapt.

Looks like a pretty heavy duty. That build makes me want to take mine off the internet

. Oh well it is what it is

. It will do all I need. I do not have that much property and it's pretty clean, so walking beam isn't needed at all. Won't need it on my deer cart either.

handirifle · Jan 31, 2016

I like those stakes that add more width. Good idea for when you do not need all the space, to just remove them, and voila, narrow trailer. Wish I had thought of that, would have been a real nice option to add to mine.

Man I looked all over the net before settling on the body design, really wish I had seen yours first. Oh well, on with the show.

Jim Timber · Jan 31, 2016

handirifle said:
Sorry. The trailer hitch is for 2" square tubing, and the tongue is round, so I will need to adapt the round tongue to the square hitch connector 1-7/8" x 2" Ball Coupler.

I figured using a 2" sq tube piece slid over and welded to the round tongue is the easiest to adapt.

Looks like a pretty heavy duty. That build makes me want to take mine off the internet . Oh well it is what it is . It will do all I need. I do not have that much property and it's pretty clean, so walking beam isn't needed at all. Won't need it on my deer cart either.

Ah, now I get it. I was thinking you were going to add a receiver to the front of your tongue like mine and was thinking not only is .065 too thin, but you'll need a way to remove the weld flash seam. For what you're doing, that'll work perfect. You might need to smack the round tube with a hammer a little for it to slide over, or you could take the grinder to it easy enough as well. That'll be plenty adequate for your application.

handirifle said:
I like those stakes that add more width. Good idea for when you do not need all the space, to just remove them, and voila, narrow trailer. Wish I had thought of that, would have been a real nice option to add to mine.

Man I looked all over the net before settling on the body design, really wish I had seen yours first. Oh well, on with the show.

Keep in mind, mine's a version 2.0 for a reason. :laughing:

I had that tubing laying around for years, so I decided I'd use it vs buying new and spending more up front. If I was to build it again, it'd be lighter. I don't mind that it's heavier though. The atv doesn't care at all, and it hauls deer really good as-is. I still haven't made my boxed sides for it and need to. I've got some firewood on the ground that'll turn punky if I don't get it moved before much longer.

I don't know if I'll ever build a dump box for it or not. I have a big Chevy straight truck that'll be getting a 5yd dump box this spring, and the tractor will hold what the little trailer will in it's bucket. Plans change and projects grow in and out of our implements. Just like we grow our skills as our passions guide us. Keep on fabricating and welding.

I didn't start out all that differently than you about 20 years ago with a flux core MIG.

Taking the initiative is a big first step. :thumbsup:

I've got a buddy who's talking about going to college after working on a production line for nearly 10 years and suddenly realizing he doesn't have any other skills or knowledge. I've talked to him several times a week over these years and he's always looking at dumb videos on youtube or watching tv - Top Gear or some such (not that there's anything wrong with that in itself). But there's one thing that stands out to me; he's done nothing outside of what he has to to get by. No initiative to learn on his own. Now he's talking about paying a school to teach him stuff. It makes no sense to me. There's so much information out there at the tip of our fingers, if you want to learn it, it's free! Better yet, there's communities like this one where we can delve into areas we know nothing about and get some help from folks that do. It's huge. So don't be disparaged that you don't have the coolest whatever out there. If I had more spending cash I'd be doing things differently too. :laughing: Be proud that you're gaining skills most people don't have. I've never met an engineer who said they got something absolutely perfect the first time they drew it out on paper, and wasn't lying.

I'm looking forward to watching your build.

Xfaxman · Jan 31, 2016

handirifle said:
Sorry. The trailer hitch is for 2" square tubing, and the tongue is round, so I will need to adapt the round tongue to the square hitch connector 1-7/8" x 2" Ball Coupler.

I figured using a 2" sq tube piece slid over and welded to the round tongue is the easiest to adapt.

----------------------------------------

What I have done with round tongues, is shim the sides and bolt it on through the holes on the side.

handirifle · Jan 31, 2016

Jim
True, nothing like getting your hands dirty trying. Depending on what you do with them, the youtube videos can be great. I retired in '09 and the wife and I finished off our home build. The contractor took it to roughed out condition (elec, plumbing, finish) no cabinets, elec pulled to the boxes and main panel, but nothing connected, plumbing the same. Some of the stuff I knew from previous jobs and some I picked up along the way. But some stuff like doing the baseboards and door trim, and hanging the interior doors, I got off youtube

. There's a lot of vidoes on there of people that THINK they know what they are doing, and if you keep looking you will find those that KNOW what they are doing. I am a visual oriented person. If I see it done, I have a way better chance of being able to do it myself. Kinda how my last career (Air Traffic Controller 27 yrs) went. Some things you have to be able to "see" in your mind, and that's how I work.

I do plan on getting the gas refilled, cause I hate the slag cleanup but for now this will have to do. Had my little welder since the late 90's. It's been a good little welder, and it's better than I am. My first mower trailer is mostly wood and some 1/2" sq tubing. Pretty pathetic, but it held up pretty well to hauling the 35gal water tank I used to water my trees during the drought. But the Harbor Freight tires kept going flat and I finally had enough and decided to build a good one. Might be overkill but at least it won't break. :thumbsup:

Welder aside, Jim, you'd probably get the biggest kick out of my little Harbor Freight 4x12 lathe

. THAT is also above my skill level. I stand in awe at some of the stuff a real machinist turns out.

xfaxman

I have done it that way before and not been happy so I will stick with the 2" tube for now. In fact, I might go with what Jim suggested by grinding some off the sides, and might even use .090 for a better weld joint. I have plenty of material on the tube and don't want a weld breaking with a big load on it. I am making this trailer to be hauled by anything with a 1 7/8 ball on it so I'll be able to load it real heavy if I want. Prob up to 1/2 ton, especially with just 2 tires. If I had 4 tires I could probably go to 1 ton.

Right now I am looking out the patio doors and it is pouring rain. We really need it, but not sure I will get anything done today, but it's supposed to lighten up about 12:30.

Jim Timber · Jan 31, 2016

You definitely need to sift some chaff before finding the gems on youtube, there's no doubt there.

Maybe since you're retired, you should treat yourself to a 240v MIG upgrade?

handirifle · Jan 31, 2016

That WOULD be nice, just not sure it would happen.

Got a little more done today, after the rains quit. I like to open the shop door whan working and the rain was blowing right against it and it would have been a mess.

I got both spindles welded into the tubes, and onto the struts. On the one pointing left, there is a glob of weld wire. I ran out of flux core and tried to do shielded, with the little bit of gas left.

Wrong place to experiment!

I will need to grind that the shielded part back off. Made a real mess of it. I need to get a tank of gas and practice on some scrap to get the hang of it. It wasn't penetrating. I did remember to reverse the polarity, and that made it smoother, but no penetration. As I mentioned, this thing puts out 90 amps on a good day, and it seems like less when welding shielded. That is one reason I went back to flux cored wire too.

Maybe the welder (the machine and me) are not up to it. I dunno.

ATV%20trailer%20spindles1_zpspf4fso1d.jpg

ATV%20trailer%20spindles2_zpsuekoxwfq.jpg

I still need to cut and weld in my supports for the axles. My thoughts are to go from the lower corner (bottom picture for reference) where the 2 round tubes are perpendicular and go up to the rear or inside tube the spindle is welded into. I will do the same on the other side if the spindle. In other words, if looking from one side to the other it will look like a triangle. It will have to be angled to avoid making contact with the tongue when dumping.