After 5+ years finally started barn

[sawtooth]

Guys I need some input please. So my contractor is working on the ends of the barn and I realized the siding widths are not matching up top to bottom which will lead to misaligned battens. NOT GOOD!

This is because his amish supplier provided different width boards in the beginning making it hard to match them up now. So his proposal is to add a second layer of boards (siding) on the top portion and match those up to the bottom. So there will be about 1" overhang top to bottom which I'm ok with as this is a more rustic approach anyways. First question does this pose a problem? Secondly, if not then how will the different width boards and battens look? So all the battens will now line up top to bottom but the overall lines will be inconsistent due to different width boards. Will this appear ok in your opinion?

 

[sawtooth]

This is where we are now.

 

[sawtooth]

This is what I had in mind.

 

[wmonroe]

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/projects/406992-after-5-years-finally-started-image-3216214080-jpg"/> This is what I had in mind.

I think that looks pretty good. Would you do the other end the same way?

 

[deerseeker001]

looks nice,good job.

View attachment 406991

This is where we are now.

 

[farmer2009]

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/projects/406992-after-5-years-finally-started-image-3216214080-jpg"/> This is what I had in mind.

That's the end product that I would have pictured.
Have him place some batons jut two or three and see if you can get a feel for how it will look. Without running a horizontal baton at or below the over lap I really think it won't look right.

If all else failed he should have ripped the boards to the correct width on site before installing them.

 

[s219]

Sounds like there is no good solution -- that's a bit disappointing that the builder did not think about this.

On my barn, the top section of siding does stick out a little, it basically overlaps the bottom row. But they also got all the boards and battens lined up, since all the boards where of the same width to start.

Not sure how it would look with variable width boards and battens, but it's not the end of the world. Probably more important to get the seams all properly covered.

Another option is to not add more boards on top, but instead nail a wide horizontal "waist" band of boards across the middle, and use that to keep the top and bottom battens separate. If wide enough, it will make it harder to notice any differences. I would however, saw a 15 degree bevel into the top of the board so that it does not collect water, and I would not butt the top battens to the board tightly -- leave a gap to prevent water damage. Probably should think through other possible pros and cons of this. I just know that style-wise, waist bands are often used to divide different siding styles on houses to give a clean break and avoid any odd looking mis-matches.

 

[s219]

BTW, regardless of the issue, that is a pretty looking barn and I love the wood siding.

 

[Walkin Horse]

Something to think about. If you put a second layer of boards over top they all get nailed together. When things start drying and moving I think your going to have nails breaking boards. Also poplar molds bad when wet and not stacked right. I would worry about that growing between the layers. If the bottom layer cups or twists it's going to push the top layer off.

When I did my first board and batten 2 years ago I messed up. I nailed the battens to the boards. Now as things move and dry and twist and cup some of the battens are popping off. The one I did this summer I used 10" boards and 6" battens. I left a 4" space to cover with the battens. I nailed 3-1/2" blocks between the boards then nailed the batten to the blocks. That way everything moves.

I myself would rip that top layer off after you run that contractor off. If you layer it what's it going to make your window trim look like. If you need me to I can fire your contractor.

 

[Walkin Horse]

I went back and looked at the picture again. It may be easier to take the bottom off and change it. Man that pisses me off thinking he did that. Why did he run it in two sections. Looks like the longest boards are between the doors and beside the window. They couldn't be more than 12'.

 

[Billrog]

I don't think random will have much appeal as far as aesthetics go. Also if the boards are not proportioned between the the large drs. it will not look right once the battens are nailed on is my opinion. When doing this kind of siding it is best to work from center both ways to the out side for balance. These are just my thoughts others may have a different opinion. What really matters is that your happy with the end result.

 

[sawtooth]

Tomorrow I'm going to draw some pics to get a feel for this. Should have just called Mortan and been done with it. Lol

 

[sawtooth]

Tomorrow I'm going to draw some pics to get a feel for this. Should have just called Mortan and been done with it. Lol

 

[sawtooth]

Best I can tell the boards measure about 8-10" wide. Again this is rough cut popular. So if we remove the top portion and put back on matching top board widths I think this would have better appeal than having random battens when comparing top to bottom. Thoughts on this?

However, sounds like it will be very difficult to remove the upper boards right? This is why my contractor wants to nail a second layer over the top. I've also been reading on the correct installation for board and batten so am planning to discuss his method since he screwed the board width deal up. I'm very surprised at this as he's done a lot of work for me in the past and have never had any issues like this before.

 

[Walkin Horse]

I would be very Leary of a second layer. Why did he run it in two sections instead of all long boards?

 

[sawtooth]

He said because he couldn't get long enough boards. Front of barn needs a few 14' sections and rear even taller. See rear of barn per attached picture.


Garage doors are 10' tall by the way.

 

[sawtooth]

Ok after more thinking and reading I may have a idea. The original plan was to put on the battens this summer after the siding completely dries. So if we do this then put the extra layer of siding on the top portion as I mentioned earlier then the movement of the first layer of boards should be limited. Am I thinking correctly? Then we can install battens on the outer layer nailing them into the 1st layer. End result should come out something like attached picture. I will also make sure he puts bark side of boards pointed in toward barn or hump out so that the siding again draws in toward the barn itself.

 

[EddieWalker]

Guys I need some input please. So my contractor is working on the ends of the barn and I realized the siding widths are not matching up top to bottom which will lead to misaligned battens. NOT GOOD!

Instead of being concerned about the boards lining up, I would strongly suggest you consider adding a porch to the side of the wall to protect your doors. I'm a contractor that specializes in remodels and repairs. Garage doors rot out at the bottom framing because of all the water issues. Adding a porch to cut down on how much water hits and runs down the door will eliminate a lot of the problems caused by water. I would talk to your contractor and figure out how far out you want to go. Some corbal brackets on either side of the door should allow you to go at least four feet.

Eddie

 

[sawtooth]

Ok you lost me here. The doors are metal and everything around them is metal so not sure what you mean?

 

[Walkin Horse]

The porch sounds like your best option. It wouldn't matter about protecting your doors. It would break up the lines. Then you wouldn't have to batten the bottom. Which is probably the best if you can't get long boards.

Here are some pics of one of my buildings and one of some poplar that didn't dry rite.

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