Additional lights on 2305 ROPS

[mcfarms]

I would like to install some lights on the underside of the top of the ROPS on my 2305. I have read many threads on this and have been unable to find specific wiring/installation instructions. I would like to have LED floods and run the wires inside the ROPS if possible and have them work off the normal headlight switch. There are some who feel a separate switch is desirable, but I think if I am running my normal headlights, it's because I need more light. LOL Any thoughs and instructions on this would be great! I can provide pics if necessary!

FYI, this is my first tractor and post (other than an introduction), so I appologize in advance for my lack of experience!

 

[arrow]

I would like to install some lights on the underside of the top of the ROPS on my 2305. I have read many threads on this and have been unable to find specific wiring/installation instructions. I would like to have LED floods and run the wires inside the ROPS if possible and have them work off the normal headlight switch. There are some who feel a separate switch is desirable, but I think if I am running my normal headlights, it's because I need more light. LOL Any thoughs and instructions on this would be great! I can provide pics if necessary!

FYI, this is my first tractor and post (other than an introduction), so I appologize in advance for my lack of experience!

No need to apologize Mc. I did this on my JD and had them work just like you stated. All I did was to splice into wires going to the rear parking lamps which go on with the head lights. I grounded them to the mounting bolts I used to attach them to the rops and ran the wire inside the rops with rubber grommet protection as they emerged. As you are using led's , your amp draw will only be about 3 or so which should be able to be easily supported with the existing circuitry. Heck, I ran two 55 watt lights on mine which was a 9 amp draw with no problem.

 

[mcfarms]

I was not aware the 2305 had parking lamps on the rear, with the exception of the directional signals. Am I incorrect with that? I should probably check when I get home. If it does, I'm golden and will do as you suggest. If not, I will need another way to do it since I don't want them coming on and off with my warning lights. LOL

 

[jenkinsph]

Unless you have an upgraded alternator just remember a 2305 came standard with 20 amp model. Going with led lights on the rear may be cheaper in the long run.

 

[arrow]

I was not aware the 2305 had parking lamps on the rear, with the exception of the directional signals. Am I incorrect with that? I should probably check when I get home. If it does, I'm golden and will do as you suggest. If not, I will need another way to do it since I don't want them coming on and off with my warning lights. LOL

Sorry Mc but you are correct. There are no rear lights on the little guy other than the blinkers. You'll have to go from the battery (+) to a switch to the lights. Don't forget the in line fuse.

 

[mcfarms]

I believe there is a power source under the seat. Is that fused already and can I simply tap into that instead of going to the battery?

 

[kennyd]

There is a purple wire somewhere under the seat that is for the optional work light JD sells, it's operated from the headlight switch. I chose to create a new circuit for my front and rear lights that switched thru a relay directly from the battery.

 

[mcfarms]

Ok, so I did some research last night and discovered that there is indeed a tail light on my 2305; a small affair located on the bottom side of the hazzard lights. This red light stays on (solid) whenever the headlights are on. I will check on the purple wire tonight to see which one is the better option. Either way, I don't think I'll need to add a fuse to the line since both of these should be fused aleady. If people are interested I'll post some before/after pics with this as well as details as to how I did it and what the results were.

Tail Light:

 

[kennyd]

The main problem with using the purple wire I mentioned or the taillight wire is that the headlights have to be ON for them to be energized. When a FEL, blade, or blower is attached to the front the headlights are all but useless IMHO so why have them ON using up precious amperage from the alternator. That's why I chose to have the work lights independent of the headlights and on their own switch.

 

[mcfarms]

Wow, I never thought of that, KennyD! Seems there are a couple ways of going about/around this. #1 would be to do exactly as you did, and have a dedicated switch. Knowing me, this would increase the risk of leaving them on accidentally and draining the battery. Perhaps I could locate a wire that activates when the key it turned, but what if I want them on for a short time when the tractor is off? I could always go with LED instead of the 12V/55W halogens I got. I went with the halogens for the simple reason that LED's produce little to no heat in this size. Since much of my night work will be on winter evenings (which are long and dark in Maine) the halogens produce heat that will keep the light from ice/snow buildup. So, I could always put LEDs in the hazzard and headlights to reduce the draw. Seems this isn't as simple a choice as I initially thought. lol

This is all very helpful information!!!

 

[kennyd]

My "new" circuit is switched ON with the key through a 30 amp relay, no chance of draining battery if the key is OFF.

Here is my old thread I found: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/69583-rops-light-install.html

 

[jenkinsph]

Kenny,
Since the OP chose to ignore my comment about the 20 amp alternator I am curious if you know what the draw is when the ignition is turned on? It would seem very easy to surpass the 20 amp limit only to wind up with a dead battery working evenings.

 

[mcfarms]

Ok, KennyD. Clearly you know what you're doing with this! Well done, bud!! Is there a wire under the seat that I need to tap into if I go this route? If so, which one?

I didn't intend to ignore your comment, jenkinsph!! I appreciate all the feedback and help!

 

[kennyd]

Kenny,
Since the OP chose to ignore my comment about the 20 amp alternator I am curious if you know what the draw is when the ignition is turned on? It would seem very easy to surpass the 20 amp limit only to wind up with a dead battery working evenings.

Steve, its about 4-6 amps IIRC, basically very simple electronics and the fuel solenoid. The 20 amp alt is another reason I chose not to have the headlights on when they are useless anyway.

 

[kennyd]

Ok, KennyD. Clearly you know what you're doing with this! Well done, bud!! Is there a wire under the seat that I need to tap into if I go this route? If so, which one?

I didn't intend to ignore your comment, jenkinsph!! I appreciate all the feedback and help!

No clue which wire, I never tap into factory wiring harnesses since they are usually minimally sized to start with. That's why I created my own new circuit.

 

[adirondackmtnman]

If you have an outlet in the back of the tractor(for implements/wagons/etc) you can buy a plug for that @ TSC for about $20, works well because power's off with keyswitch, and you can put a second switch in to kill the lights when not necessary

Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet

 

[drjay9051]

Since headlights are pretty useless with FEL or other implement at front why not just disconnect wires at headlights and run back to the ROPS? When you switch on headlights the LED light up. No additional draw.

You won't have headlights but you pretty much don't have them when they are on anyway.

 

[jenkinsph]

Steve, its about 4-6 amps IIRC, basically very simple electronics and the fuel solenoid. The 20 amp alt is another reason I chose not to have the headlights on when they are useless anyway.

So at best the lighting load needs to be less than 12 amps total load if there is going to be any amount of headroom in the charging circuit. Realistically I would wan't it to be less and would agree to having a small or lower powered work light(s) on a separate circuit and switch. Using a $100 led light might be more practical IF you need it, I think the alternator upgrade to 40 amp costs much more than that.

 

[mcfarms]

Yeah!! It's like $350 to upgrade the alternator, I think.

 

[jenkinsph]

Luckily for me my x749 has a 40 amp alternator standard on it. I did pay extra for an upgrade on my 110tlb just can't remember how much it was.