3PH bushing question

[mopardude318]

I'll try to explain the best I can...I'm having a small issue with my GearMore box scraper's bushings coming out of the hole and wobbling around on the Cat.2 pin, which creates excessive play, in which the box scraper moves around. Here's a couple pics to show what I mean. Is there a way to remedy this? I have seen bushings where they are longer and have a hole through them & the lynch pin holds them in place...

ya see that little guy wiggle outta there.

 

[joecdeere]

either a longer bushing, or some flat washers to take up the extra space between the ear and the lift arm ball

 

[mopardude318]

right on. thanks. ill see what TSC has in the AM.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Have also seen pins that were stepped where part of the pin diameter is CAT2 and the tip is CAT1 and the CAT2 arms go in the outside slot and CAT1 arms are on the inside slot. You can try sticking a normal CAT1 pin in from the inside and put the lynch pin in between the ears.

David

 

[oosik]

EXACTLY what joecdeere said. I have an entire big 'ol shoe box full of pins and bushings of differing sizes, lengths, diameters. Some of my implements take a WILD array of mixed fittings to get a perfect fit. EXPAND your empire - buy more bushings................. I'm pretty sure I have the exact pins & bushings required for each implement - out on each and every implement now, finally. But just in case I have the 'ol shoe box full of spares.

 

[Z-Michigan]

I'm sure you could use washers and stuff to make it work OK, but it seems like the best fix would to get that bushing to stay in the plate where it belongs. You could clean the rust and dirt from both bushing and hole, then either glue it in place with something like Loctite, or stake it in place (making small dents in the metal to mechanically prevent it from moving - look up how to stake bolt heads if you aren't familiar with this). I would lean towards Loctite because you could later remove it without any damage to bushing and implement, if you have a reason that you need to.

 

[lostcreekranch]

If your tractor 3ph is CAT 2 and your pin is CAT 2 (1 1/8”) why do you need a bushing? Are you sure the pin your using isn’t CAT 1 (7/8”)?? Sure looks like lots of daylight around pin in your first picture?

 

[JRobyn]

Steel bushings and then a couple of tack welds. Clean up any weld metal that interferes with pin fit with a grinder.

Else, drill a small hole down through the frame that hits the bushing tangentially, then drive in a roll pin. Or even drill a hole and tap it for a setscrew.

 

[countrybumpkin]

If your tractor 3ph is CAT 2 and your pin is CAT 2 (1 1/8&#148 why do you need a bushing? Are you sure the pin your using isn&#146;t CAT 1 (7/8&#148?? Sure looks like lots of daylight around pin in your first picture? <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=528910"/>

I too was wondering about that, if your tractor is cat2 and the first set of holes are also cat 2 then get a cat 2/cat1 combo pin. It will go through all three holes and pin in place.

Step Pin, Category 1 & 2 | Agri Supply 4713

 

[LouNY]

Some equipment set up for multiple category hitches use stepped pins for the lift arms,
A pin with half the length cat 1 and half cat 2 or cat 2 and 3 with these stepped pins
bushings are not required. It also seems to me that you could be using a larger pin and no bushings.

 

[Z-Michigan]

If your tractor 3ph is CAT 2 and your pin is CAT 2 (1 1/8”) why do you need a bushing? Are you sure the pin your using isn’t CAT 1 (7/8”)?? Sure looks like lots of daylight around pin in your first picture?

It wasn't obvious to me at first but after staring for a minute I saw it: the bushings are not an adapter bushing (etc.) to change category size. They are an integral part of the implement, just how its manufacturer chose to make a smooth round hole in the draft arm connection plate. This method lets the implement manufacturer use (potentially) a better material with smoother finish, while only needing to drill a basic (not perfect and polished) hole in the plate where the bushing goes, because the higher quality bushing, permanently installed at the factory, provides the intended hole for attachment pins.

Look closely at the first photo, and near the top you'll see a hole with no pin, and a dark rim around it which is the bushing. Look at the second photo: on the right side you'll see a bushing in place correctly inside the plate, and on the left side you'll see the equivalent bushing rattling loose around the connecting pin, with a larger than intended hole in the implement's plate. This is what OP is talking about. The bushing has come loose and needs to be fixed in place to work properly. Which is why I suggest either Loctite or staking. I wouldn't suggest welding because it's overkill and it could affect the properties of either the bushing or the plate that the bushing goes into.

 

[jones6780]

Weld it. Not so much on the bushing but on the frame that holds the bushing. If the bushing ever wears out it would only take a side grinder to cut the weld and remove.

 

[mopardude318]

If your tractor 3ph is CAT 2 and your pin is CAT 2 (1 1/8”) why do you need a bushing? Are you sure the pin your using isn’t CAT 1 (7/8”)?? Sure looks like lots of daylight around pin in your first picture?

View attachment 528910

My Tractor is Cat 2, and my box blade is supposed to be Cat 2, I verified my pin is also Cat 2 which measures at 1 & 1/8". So why the bushing in my box blade? I think Z-Michigan brings up a good point. Those bushings MIGHT be an integral part of the implement.

It wasn't obvious to me at first but after staring for a minute I saw it: the bushings are not an adapter bushing (etc.) to change category size. They are an integral part of the implement, just how its manufacturer chose to make a smooth round hole in the draft arm connection plate. This method lets the implement manufacturer use (potentially) a better material with smoother finish, while only needing to drill a basic (not perfect and polished) hole in the plate where the bushing goes, because the higher quality bushing, permanently installed at the factory, provides the intended hole for attachment pins.

Look closely at the first photo, and near the top you'll see a hole with no pin, and a dark rim around it which is the bushing. Look at the second photo: on the right side you'll see a bushing in place correctly inside the plate, and on the left side you'll see the equivalent bushing rattling loose around the connecting pin, with a larger than intended hole in the implement's plate. This is what OP is talking about. The bushing has come loose and needs to be fixed in place to work properly. Which is why I suggest either Loctite or staking. I wouldn't suggest welding because it's overkill and it could affect the properties of either the bushing or the plate that the bushing goes into.

Which also makes me believe that the box blade could be used on a Cat 3 tractor, with those bushings removed, a Cat 3 pin fits perfect. I could Loctite and stake, or a small tac weld the original bushing. But couldn't I also use these Cat 3 to Cat 2 bushing?

 

[ovrszd]

It wasn't obvious to me at first but after staring for a minute I saw it: the bushings are not an adapter bushing (etc.) to change category size. They are an integral part of the implement, just how its manufacturer chose to make a smooth round hole in the draft arm connection plate. This method lets the implement manufacturer use (potentially) a better material with smoother finish, while only needing to drill a basic (not perfect and polished) hole in the plate where the bushing goes, because the higher quality bushing, permanently installed at the factory, provides the intended hole for attachment pins.

Look closely at the first photo, and near the top you'll see a hole with no pin, and a dark rim around it which is the bushing. Look at the second photo: on the right side you'll see a bushing in place correctly inside the plate, and on the left side you'll see the equivalent bushing rattling loose around the connecting pin, with a larger than intended hole in the implement's plate. This is what OP is talking about. The bushing has come loose and needs to be fixed in place to work properly. Which is why I suggest either Loctite or staking. I wouldn't suggest welding because it's overkill and it could affect the properties of either the bushing or the plate that the bushing goes into.

Yep. Gearmore would tell you they've done this to have a replaceable wear point. When I see these I think it's done to allow the manufacturer to use softer, less expensive steel to make the hitch points, then add a harder insert to prolong life. I'd tack weld them in place. Unless this implement is used commercially they'll never need replaced. And if they do, grind the tack weld off and drive them out.

 

[ovrszd]

My Tractor is Cat 2, and my box blade is supposed to be Cat 2, I verified my pin is also Cat 2 which measures at 1 & 1/8". So why the bushing in my box blade? I think Z-Michigan brings up a good point. Those bushings MIGHT be an integral part of the implement.



Which also makes me believe that the box blade could be used on a Cat 3 tractor, with those bushings removed, a Cat 3 pin fits perfect. I could Loctite and stake, or a small tac weld the original bushing. But couldn't I also use these Cat 3 to Cat 2 bushing?

Yes, you can use those bushings. If you hitch/unhitch a lot you'll quickly get tired of another item to keep track of.

Not sure how many attachments you have, maybe consider a Quick Hitch.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Yes, you can use those bushings. If you hitch/unhitch a lot you'll quickly get tired of another item to keep track of.

Not sure how many attachments you have, maybe consider a Quick Hitch.

Good idea. Most quick hitches lower mount accept CAT3 so you could just install a CAT 3 pin in your box blade hitch.

But, if you don’t want to buy quick hitch just get a few of the CAT 3 to CAT 2 bushings as suggested above.

 

[DieselBound]

My Tufline came with a stepped pin, similar to that in the picture posted by countrybumpkin, but I think (can't take a look at it right now and I cannot recall for certain) it has a shoulder on one end, like this one (but mine's a CAT2/CAT1):

SpeeCo Products

 

[mopardude318]

Yes, you can use those bushings. If you hitch/unhitch a lot you'll quickly get tired of another item to keep track of.

Not sure how many attachments you have, maybe consider a Quick Hitch.

Well..... all I have is my box blade at the moment. LOL. Hopefully a LPGS, and a flail mower, maybe an old school draw bar drag disc.

That Pat's system looks real nice. I like the simplicity of it.

I thank you all for the input. What I did real quick to try out was use the Cat 2-3 bushing one the outside mounts, then a Cat 2 shaft collar on the inside as a thick spacer to keep everything from moving around. Kinda spaced everything nice and equal. Seemed to work okay as I was scraping... There's about an 1/8" play on each side, is that adequate?

...should be okay, no...??

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The bushings are suppose to be pressed in, plain and simple. Either get it knurled by someone with a lathe and can knurl it or get an oversized bushing and press it in. Any bushing that just slips in is another wear point.

If you are considering Pat's, best to let me know, because your top link will need to be longer.

Actually if you are considering Pat's you may want to consider going with the European type quick hitch mounts as pictured. Draft link ends and top link end. They rotate on a ball so there is always full contact on the pin and hook end. The balls stay with each implement.

 

[mopardude318]

MtnViewRanch, They sure didn't slide in easy, they needed a good bit of force to go in! but I completely understand what you are saying, they need to be in there goodNtite! Although Pat's is cool, I'm not considering it, I did read about the need for a longer top link.

But what you have pictured there..thats neat...I dont know enough about it to switch over...any cons to that setup, sure looks interesting!