Snow Attachments 3 point snowblower question..

[Soldier415]

With HST you will be fine. If it is deep snow and you start to bog just slow down and let it catch up.

I have a L3430 with 27HP at the PTO. I run a 74" 3 point blower. Deepest snow I have cleared was a little over 3 feet. If its heavy/wet or deep just slow your blowing speed down and it will chew through it

 

[TractorHound2]

Wow! Nice setup @KennyG! I知 wondering if you or anyone here has tried the plow QA set up on the loader? I壇 like to keep the loader on, at least for this year. And once I have a barn built, I will have space to store it when I remove it for the plow. But at this point, the plow QA would be more convenient... any thoughts?

 

[KennyG]

I think if you search you will find a number of loader mount and skid steer attachments. If you have the standard John Deere QA bucket, all you have to do is build a frame for the plow.

Here is a post on how I built some JD QA implements. There are two reasons I used the frame mount. First, it gave me lift and angle control with the joystick without having to add a third function valve. Second, it keeps the plow as close to the tractor as possible to minimize sideways push.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/391039-john-deere-loader-qa-projects.html?highlight=Fork

 

[PILOON]

I agree on Pronovost.
I run a 60 inch on a 20 hp geared tractor for some 10 years now.
You are hydrostatic so you'll have no trouble, simply adjust your speed to keep up the RPM's.

With wet heavy snow you'll find most clogging happens when you stop so keep moving.
For clearing clogs I rigged about a 2 1/2 'washer' on the end of an old shovel shaft to poke the clogs thru. Works great and beats a shovel.

I also lined my chute with HD plastic so the snow glide out better as it sticks much less than on steel.

Have fun.
Since I have a gravel drive I always have spare shear bolts in my cab.

 

[TractorHound2]

Thanks again to everyone痴 input! This web sight is awesome! @KennyG, thanks for the links, super helpful. One last question for anyone, when I check the blower out, aside from broken gear teeth and missing chain links, is there anything I should investigate before purchasing. Can稚 exactly see it operate handling snow, but any advice would be helpful. Thanks in advance!

 

[RickB]

It should turn freely by hand, the PTO shaft should telescope freely and the universal joints should be snug without binding.

 

[cdaigle430]

One more thing I would like to add-with a berco soft cab, loader bucket edge tamers and rear tire chains along with the snowblower a tractor becomes a lethal snow weapon. I had the whole combo last winter and it was unstoppable.

 

[TractorHound2]

Thanks @RickB for the tips. And @ cdaigle430, what are the bucket edge tamers? I have the rest but am debating the chains. I have turfs so I壇 like to see how well they do.

 

[leonz]

Hello TractorHound2

Your going to want chains even on flat terrain UNLESS the rears are loaded, saying that turfs do not like ice either so keep that in mind.

My john deere LA115 lawn mower junk was worthless even with chains and 82 pounds of suitcase weights until I loaded the rears with windshield washer fluid.
These current jd mowers cannot hold a candle to the older 318 and other pre 1980 models

 

[chim]

As the others have said, the HST makes up for any shortage of HP. I used a Puma 64 on an L3200 for about 4 Winters and the L4240 (which is also equipped with a front blade) last Winter. While it was great fun to watch the snow fly, it isn't practical for me. I do a couple parking lots and have a front blade that works way too much better. When I list the L3200 for sale the blower will be part of the package.

It does work well on driveways and I don't mind sitting side-saddle to watch it. Our driveway is only about 300' long and it has no obstructions or banks that limit where snow can be pushed. A few neighbors have shorter driveways but again no banks along them. It is slower than a plow, but being able to toss the snow well away from the driveway is a benefit if you're short of space.

Also used a rear blade only for 10 years before getting a tractor with a loader. Then used a rear blade plus loader for another 15 years on a couple tractors. Wouldn't go back to any of those, although the rear blade worked very well if the snow depth allowed driving forward with the blade angled. If the snow was deep or heavy, the angled blade acted like a rudder and steered the tractor sideways.