20 inch chainsaw recommendation

   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #121  
Whatever you buy, do it soon. I see prices rising.
My 500i is $200 more than I paid a year and a half ago.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #122  
My 620p has a decomp valve.
Since I have a titanium rod in my right arm I use the decomp to start it.
Makes it a lot less stressful on my shoulder.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #123  
I have't read through all 13 pages, but since there ARE 13 pages, I'll throw in my 2 cents.

First, chainsaws are not measured by their bar length. They are normally measured by their engine size in CC, but a better way to talk about them is by the HP they generate because a new 59cc pro saw will normally generate more HP than an older 62cc chainsaw. This is why so many people are recommending the Stihl 261. It generates appreciably more power than the previous 026 or MS260.

Second, what model of Husqvarna saw do you currently have? If you are happy with the way it cuts, and are only wanting to go up to 20 to have a little more reach, I'd just put a longer bar on what you have. The limiting factor on how long of a bar you can use on a saw is how much bar oil the saw can pump out. If your saw can oil an 18" bar, then most likely it can also oil a 20" bar.

Third, if you're looking for another saw because your saw just doesn't have enough power to cut the bigger stuff you're dealing with, then I wouldn't limit myself to something that normally runs a 20" bar. If you're running an 18" bar now, you most likely have a saw that's in the 45cc to 50cc range. IMHO, if you're cutting hardwood, those saws are best suited to cutting wood that's 10" and under. They can cut bigger stuff, but they are a lot slower when doing so. The 261 is a 50cc saw, but it puts out 4hp which is more in line with what you'd expect to get out of a 55cc machine. If you normally don't cut much that's over 12" across, it doesn't make sense to carry around the extra weight of a 60cc or 70cc saw. Most people in that situation opt for something in the 45-50cc range, and the 261 is definitely king of the hill in that category. If you cut a lot of stuff that's 18-24", you're better off with a 60cc machine. I still prefer a 18" bar on my 60cc saws because it keeps my bars and chains the same as what I use on my 50cc machines. People will say that it takes longer with a shorter bar because they end up having to make a cut from both sides of the tree/log. If I'm felling, I like the convenience of a longer bar, if I'm bucking, it doesn't make a difference. With an 18" bar on a 60cc machine, I can drop my depth gauges down to .030" or .035" to take advantage of the extra torque which allows me to cut noticeably faster than what I can with a 20" or 24" bar. If you know what you're doing, you can cut through a 24" diameter log with an 18" bar without cutting from both sides.

Lastly, if you're cutting very much that's over 20" across, I'd strongly recommend getting a machine that's 70cc or bigger. I own several saws, and I jump straight from 60cc with an 18" bar to 90cc with a 28" bar. 90cc machines are HEAVY. They aren't much fun to run, but if I'm spending much time in wood that's over 20", my 90cc saws will cut a LOT faster. A 70cc saw would do the same, but I sometimes need to run a long bar (36" or more on wood that's 4' - 6' across), and the 90cc machines run those better than a 70cc machine will. If I knew I would never need to run a bar longer than 32", I'd get a saw in the 70cc-76cc range and get a 24" and 32" bar for it and call it done. That setup combined with a good 50cc machine is a good 2 saw plan.

FWIW, I run Stihl saws and am brand loyal primarily because I have bars, chains, and spare parts for them. Adding a Husky or Echo would end up costing me a lot more than just the sticker price.
 
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   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #124  
I got an Echo CS590 from sawsupplers.com last year. The 620 is basically the same saw with all plastic being replaced by metal. BTW, if you get one be absolutely sure you flip that kill switch off before your first pull to start or you’ll flood it every time. Very happy with the saw and their service. BTW they have 16% off Echo saws through end of April with code EasterEcho.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #125  
If you're on a budget, but you need a bigger saw to run from time to time, and you're mechanically inclined, the Chinese clones (Farmertech) aren't a bad option. Plan on spending $50 to $100 on replacing some of the parts (clutch, starter pawl and rope, oil pump, screws) with OEM (Stihl or Husquvarna) hardware. I am currently running a G660 (93cc) and it's running just as good as my 90cc Stihl saws. I don't expect it to hold up to the daily abuse that a logger could dish out to a MS660, but for my limited needs there's a good chance it will last me the rest of my life. I bought mine straight from Farmertec, but Amazon appears to be the best way to buy them at the moment. The G444 (71cc) is currently $369 with a 25" bar and chain ($325 for the power head only), the G466 (76cc) is currently $314 (power head only, nothing with a B&C is currently available from Amazon), and the G660 (92cc) is currently $370 with a 25" bar and chain ($305 for power head only). The G466 appears to have a 2 to 4 week lead time. Everything else is available with free 2 day shipping.

If you're not mechanically inclined, and you're willing to wait a few weeks, you can contact Smelter City Saws, and they will build you one of their "Bullet Proof" saws that starts with a clone, get's the crappy parts replaced, and then gets some port work. From memory, the cost of the saw ends up being about 50% more than the cost of the original clone, BUT you get a strong running saw that has been completely gone through, and that's still 40% to 50% less than the cost of an OEM saw. As an added bonus, a good chunk of that money stays in the hands of the American craftsman that built it which is probably more than can be said for the OEM saws.
 
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   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #126  
All the major manufacturers already sent out notices of the price increases happening due to the parts they build saws from the saws are getting hit with the tariffs.

Believe it or not your saws aint built from parts in Germany or Sweden for many years now.

Most are assembled in their countries.

Even so called USA made ones they like to call them are just assembled in US using foreign and domestic parts.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #127  
I got an Echo CS590 from sawsupplers.com last year. The 620 is basically the same saw with all plastic being replaced by metal. BTW, if you get one be absolutely sure you flip that kill switch off before your first pull to start or you’ll flood it every time. Very happy with the saw and their service. BTW they have 16% off Echo saws through end of April with code EasterEcho.

They're not the same saw, there are more differences than what you are seeing. I know they have different carbs, I know they also have different # of rings (2 vs 1) on the piston. IIRC, they also have different port timing. A 620 jug will fit on a 590 though. Th 620 is higher revving than a 590 as well.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #128  
Echo will be having their annual sale SOON.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #129  
Buy the pro saw. My 038 mag ll quit and I got a 500 I, the o21,023 got tired so got a 261c. and I got an antique Husky compact 023. As soon as I wear out the 0.325 bar on the 261 I'll change to a shorter bar 3/8 pitch/ sprocket. The pro saws not only last longer their weight to power ratios are better. both have decompression. I like to cut so the saw falls through the log. If you buy; like they say cry once vs wishing you bought something better
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #130  
Echo will be having their annual sale SOON.
Easter sale started already so no need to wait for annual. 16% right now at online dealer I use till 30th.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #131  
Used Stihl pro saws really fetch high prices. Is it based on the name reputation only? Or there’s a better chance a used Stihl will be a better investment than a used saw of another brand?
Used 500i/661’s are usually $1,200 in MY area.
That’s crazy.

I can’t see paying $1,200 for a used 661, when a new one is $1,600.
You don’t know how that saw was treated, what fuel was run through it, etc.
 
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   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #132  
They're not the same saw, there are more differences than what you are seeing. I know they have different carbs, I know they also have different # of rings (2 vs 1) on the piston. IIRC, they also have different port timing. A 620 jug will fit on a 590 though. Th 620 is higher revving than a 590 as well.
Thanks for the clarification.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #133  
Well said. I had a couple of seasons where I found a routine with a couple of smaller Stihl saws. Then I had two seasons of pure hell where I just could not get a consistent start out of either Stihl (170, 180C) -- every last time I went out to get something done, it was 2 to 3 hours in the shop tearing one of the other saw down for one reason or another. Sold them for parts. completely junk. I had a plastic toy which had Homelite stamped on the side .. I had bought that from a guy on Craigslist 7 years ago and it outran those dumb Stihls -- even though the engine was melting itself out of the plastic mounts by the time I was done with it.

Plenty of YMMV responses here ... folks who have found the groove with their Stihl and can coax it to get the job done. Maybe I'll see the light again some day. Not for now.
I don't know I have never had to coax any of my Stihl saws and I've had a bunch of them. Most would be still at it if they hadn't got burned up in my shop fire. I had an 051 that I traded for a 044 back in the 70's and you couldn't pile the firewood that 044 cut in a 5 ac field. It had pump gas and stihl oil in it the day of the fire, that's all it ever ate. I had 3 farm bosses that I used just for cutting limbs and they were pretty good but not as good as my professional saws. I had 2 of those 044's but one I ran over with my bulldozer so I couldn't blame that on the saw just my stupidity. Never had an Echo but I bought a couple Huskies, but they didn't last that long they didn't cut all that bad though when they were not in the shop. I gave one of them to my son about 10 years ago and he still uses it, but he doesn't cut that much with it. Most all the saws they are making now are good, but They are not building any of them like they used to. I noticed a lot of changes in these 2 new Stihl saws some for the better, but some things make me wonder if they will still be cutting wood 40 years from now.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #134  
I don't know I have never had to coax any of my Stihl saws and I've had a bunch of them. Most would be still at it if they hadn't got burned up in my shop fire. I had an 051 that I traded for a 044 back in the 70's and you couldn't pile the firewood that 044 cut in a 5 ac field. It had pump gas and stihl oil in it the day of the fire, that's all it ever ate. I had 3 farm bosses that I used just for cutting limbs and they were pretty good but not as good as my professional saws. I had 2 of those 044's but one I ran over with my bulldozer so I couldn't blame that on the saw just my stupidity. Never had an Echo but I bought a couple Huskies, but they didn't last that long they didn't cut all that bad though when they were not in the shop. I gave one of them to my son about 10 years ago and he still uses it, but he doesn't cut that much with it. Most all the saws they are making now are good, but They are not building any of them like they used to. I noticed a lot of changes in these 2 new Stihl saws some for the better, but some things make me wonder if they will still be cutting wood 40 years from now.
Has me concerned enough to start looking at what models were the best before they were electronic.
I can just see it now ….”IMP’s render all electronic saws useless”
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #135  
had some two-legged imps disable a chainsaw once.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #136  
Interesting conversation and experiences here. But the OP gave me the impression a 20” saw was needed for a few larger than usual logs, not forever. A saw that has pulled 18” for years can pull 20” for a while, if not quite as easily. Heck, I have an 18” bar on a tiny Stihl MS180, which is mostly carried in winter in case of trees across the road.

But if you WANT to buy another saw, enjoy the experience. Of my ten saws, five have 20” bars. The four Homelite Super EZ Autos were originally sold as 16” saws. The Homelite Super XL Auto was most likely sold new as a 20” saw. For the record, my favorite saw is the Super EZ Auto I bought new in December 1974.

My “new” saw, also my biggest, is the Husqvarna 385XP I bought in 2002, giving $400 for a demo saw with a few hours on it instead of $800 for a new saw. I have 28” and 32” bars for this saw. I also have ripping chains and an Alaskan Sawmill, which this saw can handle.

I inherited a Jonsered 625 II which is basically a Husky 61 in red instead of orange. It runs fine with a 24” bar.

What do you actually need? What do you want? Today’s saws are mostly overpriced and difficult to adjust. I like metal saws more than plastic. Buy what makes you happy but does not bust your budget.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #137  
Used Stihl pro saws really fetch high prices. Is it based on the name reputation only? Or there’s a better chance a used Stihl will be a better investment than a used saw of another brand?
Used 500i/661’s are usually $1,200 in MY area.
That’s crazy.

I can’t see paying $1,200 for a used 661, when a new one is $1,600.
You don’t know how that saw was treated, what fuel was run through it, etc.
It depends on how old the saws are, and how much use they've had. 500i's have not been out that long, so I'd expect them to be pretty expensive on the used market. The cost of used saws also varies by region. Around here (Indiana) you used to be able to pick up an older 066/660 in decent usable shape for around $600, but an 046/460 of similar age and condition would run you closer to $900. I buy mostly used equipment, but I've gotten to the point that unless its a REALLY good price on a saw that I know is in good condition, and hasn't been rebuilt or pieced together by a wanabe mechanic, I lean more towards the chinese clones. I can buy one of those, replace the oil pump, clutch, starter pawl, starter rope, and mounting screws (about 30 min with of work, and less than $100 in parts), and have reliable saw with new rubber for less than what a nearly worn out saw sells for.

Generally speaking, the opinion seems to be that Stihl saws last longer. Even though I run Stihl saws, I think that is more of an opinion than a fact. It most likely depends on how well the saw was taken care of. There are plenty of guys out there rebuilding both Stihls and Husqvarna saws. In my opinion, Echo saws are disposable. That doesn't mean they are trash. They seem to be good, durable saws. They just aren't something that you're going to run hard for several years and then rebuild like you would a Stihl or Husky. Even on the Stihls and Huskys, its the pro saws that are intended to be rebuilt. Their homeowner and commercial saws can also be rebuilt, but its more work.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #138  
its the pro saws that are intended to be rebuilt. Their homeowner and commercial saws can also be rebuilt, but its more work.

and this is probably the point that newbs (me) have to get through thick skulls.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #139  
I thought my CS-590 was a dog until I got the correct information on taking care of it and starting it. I did some damage through ignorance, and I bought an expensive Husqvarna.

When I got the Echo figured out, I was able to turn it into a great saw. I advanced the timing. I opened up the exhaust. I started using Biobor EB instead of Sta-Bil. I tuned it to about 15,000 RPM, properly. I fixed the carb so it doesn't have a hole in the main jet. I got a real chain to replace the Romper Room chains all amateur saws come with.

It's a monster now. Put $500 into one a CS-590 and a few parts, and you can have a really nice saw without going up the food chain. The CS-590 has a metal case, so it's not all that far from a pro saw.

Don't worry about voiding the warranty, because Echo doesn't honor warranties anyway.
 
   / 20 inch chainsaw recommendation #140  
Don't worry about voiding the warranty, because Echo doesn't honor warranties anyway.
Not true and I work part time for a Kubota-Cub-Echo dealer and at least my employer does. Having said that however, Echo requires prior to any warranty work, we have to drain the gas out of the saw and determine in it was straight gassed, which is more than often the case. Straight gassed saws = no warranty. The oil tank gets drained as well and if the oil tank don't have bar oil in it but used or new motor oil, same deal applies. What I find amazing is how people flat out flog a saw and then expect it to be warranted when in fact they are the cause of the failure.
 
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