20 inch chainsaw recommendation

[Trophyduck]

Hi All,

I need to buy a new chain saw. I have a Husky 18 inch that is around 22 years old or so and the trees I need to cut up are too big for it. I figure a Husky or Stihl but open to other ideas as well. I would like to go with either brand's middle line, not home or professional but I think it is called Rancher series.

Secondly are there good online discount sites to buy or is buying local at a box store, hardware store TSC etc better?

Thanks so much,
Glenn

I have an Echo Timberwolf. Has been great

 

[TreePointer]

One vote for a Stihl MS400C

After crushing my MS-361 (59cc, 12.3 lbs, 4.6 hp), I replaced it with a MS-400CM (66.8cc, 12.8 lbs, 5.4 hp)

Both running a 20" bar. I'm very happy with the 400CM

 

[Hay Dude]

Seems like the saw sizes are ratcheting up.
The OP is currently running an 18” saw.

Maybe it’s time to recommend a 80CC 36” saw?

 

[Hay Dude]

That stihl is a 50cc saw, the husqvarna is a 60cc saw, of course the bigger saw is heavier.

So that means they aren’t comparable. That was my only point.
K ?

 

[Hay Dude]

Get something with a compression release. I have a Husq 345. It isn't very powerful but it has an adjustable carb (with limiters removed) and a compression release. Whatever you get, if it lasts, you will wish it had a compression release.

That’s a really good, overlooked point.
I hear a lot of guys here complaining the can’t pull the starter on their saws. A compression release solves this prob.

 

[DieselBound]

De-comp valves can end up leaking and sucking in air (= BAD). Really should only need them on larger saws (because they're totally necessary). IF you have one on a saw you should check them religiously.

Again, mentioning a "brand" is meaningless unless specifying the exact model. Someone noted that they'd use Stihl if cutting every day, well, NOT if you're using a consumer-grade Stihl. Sorry. What one wants FIRST is "Professional" grade, then pick your "Ford" or "Chevy" brand (based on service availability etc.).

Also, what bar size one is using is mostly meaningless. If you want to know what to get then SPECIFY what type of work it needs to do FIRST. While longer bars tend to keep one upright more they also require more sharpening activity (chains and bars are going to be more expensive), tend to find dirt quicker unless one is careful and are hard to swing around in tighter quarters (more danger to oneself- more bar and more chain to come into contact with). A saw that does 100% of what one needs doesn't exist (unless one is dealing with a tree plantation or such- all the trees are the same, the cutting conditions are the same). Get what can reliably do 90% of what you need to do, perhaps push it 5% more and use another saw/tool for the remainder. Anyone who does a lot of cutting is going to have multiple saws of differing sizes*.

* I'm kind of an oddball here in that I have four saws but only two sizes (ended up with three of the same saw- they're the perfect saw for 90% of what I deal with).

I did break down and buy an electric pole saw (DeWalt). This was a great pick-up. Has made dealing with low-hanging limbs much easier: have cut via regular chainsaw from a tractor bucket- now just stand in the back of my Polaris and reach up with the pole saw).

 

[dodge man]

My ms261 has a compression release valve, two thirds of the time I forget to use it.

 

[DieselBound]

Worst starting saw is my Stihl 192 (whatever it is). It's an "easy-start" saw I got for my wife. BUT, it's only really bad if you do not start it correctly- one cannot rip on the cord w/o flooding it (at which point it's a mess to get started). One has to just slowly pull on the cord as if chug-chugs and pops. Great saw otherwise: perfect for doing a lot of small branch work- not a top-handle but the top-handle one is one a lot of folks would used up in trees. Have had this saw just a bit longer than my oldest 562xp.

 

[kozal01]

Worst starting saw is my Stihl 192 (whatever it is). It's an "easy-start" saw I got for my wife. BUT, it's only really bad if you do not start it correctly- one cannot rip on the cord w/o flooding it (at which point it's a mess to get started). One has to just slowly pull on the cord as if chug-chugs and pops. Great saw otherwise: perfect for doing a lot of small branch work- not a top-handle but the top-handle one is one a lot of folks would used up in trees. Have had this saw just a bit longer than my oldest 562xp.

That’s how the easy start works, pulling the cord is literally just winding up a clock spring that spins the engine over when you get to the end of the pull. If you just yank on it like a normal pull start it won’t work and will damage the starter. It’s not a great system on a saw though IMO, but I have it on my backpack blower and it’s awesome, don’t have to take it off my back to re-start it.

 

[renegade99]

I have a 40 year old Stihl 076AV with 32, 36 and 54 inch bars that has cut several thousand cords of wood it never fails to start on the 3rd pull if it hasn't been used, 1 or 2nd otherwise. Also have an 026PRO and a 251 that always start by the 2nd pull with 24 and 26 inch bars that are wonderful lighter saws, only brand I will buy.

 

[TreePointer]

Seems like the saw sizes are ratcheting up.
The OP is currently running an 18” saw.

Maybe it’s time to recommend a 80CC 36” saw?

Well, OP did say that the trees he needs to cut are too big for his current 18" saw.

20" bar buried = 60cc saw territory

I'm all for maximizing the power-to-weight ratio. That Stihl 400CM, while more expensive, has excellent power-to-weight. Getting all that power in an under 13 lb powerhead has been great for my aging body.

 

[jjeff]

Used my dad's ez pull homeowner grade Stihl he got to replace an ancient echo that I grew up using and learning what not to do with chainsaws, Anyways, used his ez pull a few times when I see him, but out of habit I pull it like a conventional pull start, remember first time I used it thought it was broken or I broke it lol. My 311 has a decompression valve my 400 echo has a primer bulb. Both have chokes. The echo is far more forgiving to start. The Stihl seems like I need to do certain things in precise order to get started including saying a full vocabulary of four letter words.

 

[Hay Dude]

Well, OP did say that the trees he needs to cut are too big for his current 18" saw.

20" bar buried = 60cc saw territory

I'm all for maximizing the power-to-weight ratio. That Stihl 400CM, while more expensive, has excellent power-to-weight. Getting all that power in an under 13 lb powerhead has been great for my aging body.

Thats a huge leap in price, too. OP was talking a “mid range” saw.
Don’t know budget, but thats an $1,100 saw. Makes a 261C look cheap at $700.

 

[aesanders]

Get a 60 or 70 cc professional model. Doesn’t really matter what brand of the big 3. I like the Huskies the best but have an Echo. All are pretty good. Pro model will be built better and lighter.

 

[Hay Dude]

I posted this in another saw thread, thought it might be worth repeating here.
We have a local rental agency where I frequently rent one of their chippers. One of the few dealers authorized to sell & repair both Stihl & Husky. Service counter manager was telling me they sell more Stihl than Husky, but they actually repair a lot more Husky saws than Stihl.
I am not brand loyal, but I do prefer Stihl, only because of my numerous nearby servicing dealers and pretty much great performance.

I did just renew my saws 2 years ago and they are “computer” saws, so I need more time.

 

[jjeff]

I posted this in another saw thread, thought it might be worth repeating here.
We have a local rental agency where I frequently rent one of their chippers. One of the few dealers authorized to sell & repair both Stihl & Husky. Service counter manager was telling me they sell more Stihl than Husky, but they actually repair a lot more Husky saws than Stihl.
I am not brand loyal, but I do prefer Stihl, only because of my numerous nearby servicing dealers and pretty much great performance.

I did just renew my saws 2 years ago and they are “computer” saws, so I need more time.

Whats' a computer saw?

 

[dodge man]

Self adjusting carb

 

[Jrasband]

My ms261 has a compression release valve, two thirds of the time I forget to use it.

I have never used mine.

 

[TreePointer]

Thats a huge leap in price, too. OP was talking a “mid range” saw.
Don’t know budget, but thats an $1,100 saw. Makes a 261C look cheap at $700.

True. The 400CM is a top power-to-weight saw in the 60cc range. Of course there are other 60+cc saws on the market that aren't as expensive, but the power-to-weight criteria should still be a major factor in selecting a saw--especially for someone who works all day with one or someone who is getting older and can't sling the heavier saws.

While the 261C is an excellent saw, I'd go for something bigger if I needed to bury a 20" bar frequently. Having a 50cc saw frequently bog down in eastern hardwoods when a 60+cc saw could have been in the arsenal is very frustrating.

 

[thclimer]

If money is not a consideration, I think the following is the best combination of saws.

1) An extremely light weight Echo 2511 with a 12" bar (for liming or climbing)

2) A Stihl 261 with a 18" bar (for medium sized trees or bigger limbs)

3) A Stihl 462 with a 32" bar (for the bigger stuff)