18' vs 20' Trailer

[hillbilly rick]

I have a Deere 2520 with a FEL and rotary cutter. The FEL acts as front ballast to balance the tractor when using the cutter. Total length is 19' from bucket tip to cutter real wheel. The FEL is 2'. Can I get by with having the loader raised a bit to overhang the front of the trailer with an 18 footer, or is that asking for trouble?

Another factor is that I will need to tow this setup on a fairly rough road. I can get within a mile on a semi decent gravel road, but the last mile is rough rock and ruts with creek crossings and tight turns. Would you trailer a tractor over this type of road, or would you stop at the end of the gravel portion and drive the rest of the way? I'm not sure if either size trailer could make a couple of the turns, but obviously, an 18 footer would have a better chance.

The other option is to spend abut $500 for front weights and not transport the FEL and cutter at the same time. The cutting I will be doing is in open level fields, so the FEL is not in the way when cutting. What is your advice?

 

[bigtiller]

I'd go with a 20 footer. Once you out grow a 16, an 18 isn't much better. I went from a 14 to a 20 and wish I had done it years earlier.

 

[Iowachild]

I would go as big as you can. I had to go with a 16' in order to be able to back it into the a parking spot near my garage at home, but I would rather have the 18' more the extra space.

 

[Combustix]

I'd get the 24 :laughing: I have an 18 and the same issue though with the tractor and not the road. I will rest the bucket on the front rail of the trailer and use a ratchet tie there to secure the bucket. Have not had any issues transporting this way. though have two more 2" ratchet tie downs as well as chock the big wheels

 

[Soundguy]

can you tip the bucket forward and rest it on the front lip of the trialer. DOT frowns on buckes raised in transport.

all that said can you get the weight ballance correct with that setup. if no.. get the longer trailer.

soundguy

 

[YesDeere]

You never know what else will need to be towed. So I'd go bigger if possible. Have towed over some rough rutted and gravel roads. Just go slow and have decent tires. Mine is twenty two ft tip tip to tail and rated at 7000#. But because of the length it had to be registered at 10,000#. And inspected at a commercial truck shop not just a reg insp station. But I live in Maryland which is too close to dc and it shows sometimes;-)

 

[deerefan]

Go with at least a 20. That way, the tractor fits within the confines of the trailer and if you want to bring a box blade along you can load it on the front of the trailer and put the loader bucket on top. Always better to have too much than not enough.

 

[Mikeeemo]

Go bigger! I broke out my trucks taillamp with the bucket folded over the front rail. I remembered before I crushed the fender.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would go 20'. Most DOT will hit you with a ticket for transporting with a bucket not resting on the deck.

I would not drive the truck and trailer that last mile. I would unload and just take the tractor up.

Chris

 

[George2615]

I agree, go with the 20'er. The price difference is not that much.

Taking the loader on and off is not something I want to do on a regular basis. I've never had my loader off.

You shouldn't have a problem driving over rough rock, you just have to go slow. Or you could stop like Chris said and only take the tractor the last mile. Only problem with that is you leave your vehicle out of you sight and possibly subject to vandalism or maybe not depending on where you live.

Turning an 18 or a 20 also doesn't make too much difference unless you are talking about 90 degree turns but that would be tough with any trailer.

 

[hillbilly rick]

Thanks guys. Pretty unanimous in favor of 20'. I'm not worried about vandalism where I would drop the trailer and/or truck. This is not exactly a high traffic area. Everything past where I would drop it is camps. It is not unusual to see no vehicles during a day on that section - especially during the week. Initially, I will drop it since I am an inexperienced trailer driver, but would like to haul it all the way once I get some experience - especially the times I am alone. Dragging at the creek crossings concerns me as much as the turns and roughness although those also concern me. I have hit the skid plates before when the road was rutted pretty bad. The State gets the worst out of it once a year, but it is obviously low priority for them. What would be considered decent tires for traveling a rough road? I am sure will be on other back roads.

 

[RickB]

I would go 20'. Most DOT will hit you with a ticket for transporting with a bucket not resting on the deck.


Chris

Most DOT guys in the Northeast will write you for having the bucket flat on the deck and not chained down separately.

Hydraulic attachments must be secured. FEL buckets, backhoe buckets, etc. To the OP, 20' minimum deck length.

 

[YesDeere]

Oops. Too much mowing

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks guys. Pretty unanimous in favor of 20'. I'm not worried about vandalism where I would drop the trailer and/or truck. This is not exactly a high traffic area. Everything past where I would drop it is camps. It is not unusual to see no vehicles during a day on that section - especially during the week. Initially, I will drop it since I am an inexperienced trailer driver, but would like to haul it all the way once I get some experience - especially the times I am alone. Dragging at the creek crossings concerns me as much as the turns and roughness although those also concern me. I have hit the skid plates before when the road was rutted pretty bad. The State gets the worst out of it once a year, but it is obviously low priority for them. What would be considered decent tires for traveling a rough road? I am sure will be on other back roads.

My 18' trailer sits pretty low. I would guess 14" at most from the ground to the deck and 10" or so from the ground to the axles. I have a feeling you will get it hung up pretty easy. Figure there is going to be 6' of overhang from the rear axle to the back of the trailer. As the truck goes up a hill like in a creek crossing the rear of the trailer will dip. I have a feeling you will get hung up pretty quick and tear something up or just get plain old stuck.

Chris

 

[cowski]

bumper pull 16 ft gooseneck 20 ft. bush hog can hang over on the back and you can roll the bucket on the front.

 

[dstig1]

I'll second what most everyone said - go bigger. You won't regret it. I will also add that you are probably money ahead to buy new unless the mythical creampuff used trailer pops up for you. I bought used, and it has required enough money and time to get up to speed, I would have been better off buying new. I have heard that same tale of woe several times since then, but I knew nothing when I bought it...

 

[Iowachild]

I'll second what most everyone said - go bigger. You won't regret it. I will also add that you are probably money ahead to buy new unless the mythical creampuff used trailer pops up for you. I bought used, and it has required enough money and time to get up to speed, I would have been better off buying new. I have heard that same tale of woe several times since then, but I knew nothing when I bought it...

AMEN!

 

[Runner]

For reference, here is a 2520 with rotary cutter on a 20 foot trailer (17 foot flat with 3 foot dove).

 

[Diamondpilot]

For reference, here is a 2520 with rotary cutter on a 20 foot trailer (17 foot flat with 3 foot dove).

They get small quick don't they Runner? I remember when I bought my 25+5GN years ago. It seemed like a monster with its dual 12K tandems and 25K GVWR. Put one pulling truck on it and there was not room for a quad runner.

Chris

 

[TheTrailerGuy]

I would have to agree with the bigger is better theory. I have never had anyone come back and tell me that the trailer they bought was too big... but many have returned trading up for a longer one.