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I have heard of a worn out/failed harmonic balancer causing broken cranks. I don't know if that engine has one or not but if it does I'd take a close look at it and if in doubt just replace it.

Key words there was "fully extended".

You're probably right but I was thinking if the nut fell off 4" might be about the distance the rod could travel through the piston before it quit blocking the hole and let fluid bypass. That would likely only happen once as the rod probably wouldn't line up with the hole to go back in the piston.

Or possibly popped the piston off of the rod.

JIS and JIC have different threads as well as different tapers so they won't screw together short of forcing them. Maybe a picture of the fittings in question would help identify the problem.

Sadly I think there is some of that going on. Take something simple and make complicated or use "special" components to marry you to the OEM.

Have you checked to see if you are getting 12 volts at the valve when the switch is pressed? If you are and it still doesn't work check the resistance of the coils on the valve. They should be the same resistance. Why does a grapple need a circuit board?

I think that's likely what you'll have to do. The shape of the tank makes it about impossible to fish any debris out. I had the tank out of my BX22 years ago to fix tank port leaks. I don't remember it being a terrible job.

Looked like chrome solution but sure wasn't done anything like the shop I worked at 40 years ago. The rod would have been stripped of the old chrome and when rechromed it would come out with a frosted looking coating that would then be polished or ground. Tear down and reassembly all done on a...

What the others said plus you need to use actual hydraulic fittings, not the 300 PSI rated pipe fittings you have on there now.

About a 98% chance you have a quick couple unseated. Disconnect and reconnect them. It's not always obvious which one it is. Do it with the loader on the ground and relieve the pressure first. If it's not that check that your linkage is giving full range of stroke on the valve spool.

Just Google "idler sprocket" and find one that fits. That just looks like a cheap riveted together sprocket with a bearing sandwiched in-between.

There is (was?) a dealer in Billings called EQP (406) 206-0023. They were briefly in Gillette, Wy too but disappeared during Covid.

Snowpack is 134% of normal currently so there may be some improvement.

You can't just plug them. You say you removed 3 hoses but that they didn't install a power beyond bushing? What was the 3rd hose connected to then? I'm guessing they had the power beyond and tank hoses reversed, but only a guess. Hopefully someone with the same tractor can show the original...

So what was installed incorrectly? The valve?

And change them out every 2 years.

Going directly back to the battery is the best.

Test with your meter leads on the wires going to the motor. One lead on each of the two wires. With the meter on volts dc when the switch is toggled one way it should show 12+ and when switched the other it should show 12-.

Have you checked those wires with your meter set on DC voltage? Have you checked the fuse?

5.1 ohms is reasonable for a good motor winding.

I have been a pretty loyal Power Service (white bottle) user for 30+ years but on a road trip needed a new jug and all they had was Howes. Found out that that stuff will freeze in the jug. I don't recall how cold it was but that was my last jug of Howes. Power Service 911 would only be a last...

I would check your fuel cap and make sure it is venting. You can do that by loosening the cap when it is running poorly and see if that helps. Fuel treatment is best done above 35F but winter fuel "shouldn't" need treatment, but I do it anyway. There are some here that have added a Raycor...

If you're looking at Davis don't buy direct. There are deals to be had but you need to shop around.You should be able to save 25% or so other places.

I assume you meant 3/8 inch, as 5/8 inch would be M16.

I just received the "tune up kit" from Davis for the Vantage Vue. Currently -18F with a -46 wind chill so installation is going to wait awhile! It has a new tipping unit in the kit so that hopefully fixes it. If that cures the Davis then I might see if I can figure out how to link it to Weatherflow.

Just what was on their website. As I remember it, they wanted you to link nearby weather stations so the reported rainfall was more in line with others. I looked at other Tempest reports in the surrounding 5 mile radius there were others with pretty unbelievable reports too. I never went any...

My Tempest reports about 2 1/2 times the actual rainfall. I have a Davis Vantage Vue that had been outstanding up until about 2 years ago when it started having certain wind events affect the rain tipper. The Davis is 15+ years old. I bought the Tempest as a double check of the rain fall. That...

I agree with Jim. The only time I hear the screech is when turning the knob when not in the seat for stationary pto use and that quits in a few seconds, or if I hit a big bump or sometimes when I turn in the seat to look back. Your seat switch may be too sensitive for your body weight.

barkercabinets.com We used Barker RTA cabinets in our kitchen and master bathroom. Widths in 1/4" increments. Plywood boxes. Dovetail drawers. Blum hardware. Very pleased with them.

I'd like to see a picture showing the loader from a distance allowing us to see the condition of the "kickstand" and bucket. It does seem the side frames of the loader are pretty low, but I think it could still be mounted. Maybe the kickstands are bent?

My understanding was that Komatsu acquired International's construction side when IH went bankrupt.

Looks to me like all you need to do is pull the lever back like you're lifting the loader to get the arms in position. It looks like they are fully retracted in the picture. Note that they can move independently of each other as the side with the least resistance will move first. You can push or...

Having grown up in a farming community I know a couple of people that have been wrapped up in pto shafts, so I know the risks. Gloves and loose clothing are dangerous around spinning objects. Having spent the past 45 years in machine shops I've seen the results of that.

My PTO shrouds reside on a shelf in the shop. They're just in the way when hooking up the pto shaft. You could possibly run the pump on a shaft extension to get it clear of the shroud. If you do that you might want to provide the pump with some support to take some of the weight off the shaft.

I see my Kubota M7060 manual doesn't say anything regarding orbital motors, and it is comparable to the 5075. I even considered that tractor before deciding on the 7060. I have run a hydraulic post hole digger with it several times but that is pretty intermittent use. I'm sure they are concerned...

I would start with Google. Maybe some of the Massey guys can point you to one. Do you know if the clutch is wet or dry? You definitely want to do some diagnostic work as parts are expensive. I would guess your pressure your looking for would somewhere between 1600 and 2000 but I don't know your...

See your CaseIH dealer. Case bought IH (actually Tenneco I believe) Fiat now own CaseIH or CNH as it's called know. I don't know if a pump is available or not. You can go to Messick and look up the tractor in parts and see if they have one and what it costs. Good luck.

I believe the stop valve only affects the lowering function. Not a JD owner.

I there are any quick couplers on the loader one of them probably disconnected. May not be obvious. Best to uncouple and recouple to be certain. Do this with the loader on the ground, the tractor shut off and the loader valve relaxed. You might want to move the tractor to a good place to work on...

Your problem could be any of those and probably a few that aren't on your list. If you have a rear remote I would rig a 2000 psi or greater gauge on a quick couple and check the hydraulic pressure. One can be made up pretty cheaply. The same can be done at the loader valve. I'm not familiar with...

You really should start your own thread. Piggy backing just confuses everything.

That is a great suggestion. I run my snowblower on 540e and I believe it does flash the (!) when I run it overspeed.

No codes listed in the owners manual. The workshop manual has the ECU codes but no DTC codes. Those have to be pulled by the service dept. computer. 2160 rpm for 540 and 1828 for 540e.

If the top ! is flashing there should be a code displayed. If not only the dealer can diagnose. I would try disconnecting the battery for a bit and see if that clears it. I'd check all the fluids before starting it again.

I just changed the filters on my M7060 and there was a pretty big piece of RTV squeeze out in the filter. Probably only half of what you show.

Specifically I believe he said the cylinder tubing.

Absolutely. Voltage drop tests are VERY valuable. Too easy to be fooled by resistance and voltages with no load applied.

That size hole can be drilled with a hand drill, but has to be a good one. I've drilled 8" with a hand drill. The issue is getting it started, but if he used a common hole saw to get through the rubber and OSB etc. that will guide the core drill. They need to be run with enough water to make a...

I just got EGO brand 56 volt trimmer, edger, and blower and 2 5.0 aH batteries. Pretty impressed so far. Comparable power to gas engined ones..

Those galvanized bell reducers are likely only rated 300 psi.

Sounds like you used a tamper proof torx bit.

I've had luck sometimes driving a Torx bit into a rounded out hex.

I think technically it is a true statement as pressure is a reaction to a load/resistance. If it wasn't connected to anything it would not develop pressure. It's kind of a useless statement but I have read that very thing before.

That is my experience too with my BX22. At idle I get no movement with either the loader or backhoe. I believe the newer than my BXs were much better in that regard.

Good observation. There should be clean spool showing if it was in neutral. Pulling back on the lever would pull it out of the float position provided it's not being blocked mechanically. Note to the OP that float position is detented so it will take some force to pull it out of that position...

That would have been my suggestion too but it seems the spool isn't moving and I don't believe there is any lock. My BX22 does not have one. OP needs to do as Eagle1 suggested and determine if the lever/linkage is stuck or if the spool is stuck.

I believe both but not sure.

I can't say for sure that steel is an issue for Kubota, but it certainly is for my work place. We find sizes of shafting, tubing, and some structural sizes unavailable or long lead times. I haven't heard recently but quotes for jobs were only good for 3 days due to rising steel prices and...

There is some damage to your bevel gears. I'd look closely for cracked teeth. If you find no cracks, take a file or grinder and dress off any high spots and burrs. I trust you are replacing all of the bearings on that side as they are likely contaminated with metal.

Those appear to be nptf swivel fittings on the valve. Only 6 hoses so no power beyond. I would arrange your quick couples so the in and out hoses couple back to each other to complete the circuit when the loader is removed.

That should have been 6 hoses or 7.

The first question is personal preference. The second, is yes. The line suppling the valve needs to be returned back to prevent dead heading the pump. Does your valve have 4 hoses or 5, indicating a power beyond?

Voltage drop tests are much better than continuity checks. You can have continuity but not the ability to carry current.

Take to a starter/alternator repair shop if you have one.

If you're going to bench test a starter make sure you have a good grip on it or in a vice.

Make sure every mating surface is clean when you go back together, or you'll never be able to keep the nut tight.

If I were thinking of pulling that trailer with a load on it I would want the brakes working.

I too would question if the correct O-rings are being used and if the bolt torque is correct. Those should probably be Duro 90 O-rings. Most generic kits are only Duro 70. I would hope the dealer is using the Kioti O-rings for that application.

You're right, I don't know your loader. The concept looks the same, but maybe it's not.

With the weird seemingly unrelated problems happening I would clean every ground I could find.

If you have a nice level spot, taking a loader on or off is easy. Have no idea how many times I've had the loader on and off the BX in the 20 years I've had it, but it's lots. My M7060 is exactly the same process. Takes me 5 minutes at the most. I'll admit the first few times took longer but...

21.8x231/259=20.143 cubic inch per rev. is what you want if you are going to run the skid steer at rated rpm. There will actually be a little loss but you won't notice it. A pressure relief valve can be added if necessary. This one is close.

Pull the E-clip and see if they push in. If it does then pull it out. Sure looks like WEO style to me.

I believe those are WEO plug in connectors. I have no personal experience with them. Google them for information.

If I were the mechanic I would want to do the takeoff myself to know what goes where installing the new one.

Water in the oil is likely it, but, I bought a Howse rotary cutter that I thought had water in the oil and it turned out to be the actual color of the oil. I don't know what the factory fill oil was, but it was cream colored. I saved it and it never separated like oil and water typically do. It...

I believe there is a known fuel injector issue with a fix as fail program. Check with your dealer. Might be your problem.

I have a 2018 M7060 HDC12 with loader and have experienced a similar hydraulic whine at times. Seems hitting the brakes or turning the steering wheel will stop it most of the time, some times only while using that function though, and sometimes it seems it only quits it when it decides to. It...

So if you replace the fuse it goes back to a no start condition? If you install the fuse with the engine running it kills the engine? A dead short should blow the fuse. I'd use a test light at the fuse to see if the light circuit is drawing current. I have no idea how the light circuit is...

I can understand the frustration. Electrical problems can be challenging. Don't forget fuses in your rewire. I would also retain the temperature gauge.

I agree with jaxs that the temperature gauge, sender, and associated wiring is worth a look.

That's pretty much the same schematic I was finding but easier to read with a few more clues. I'll look at this later but diodes could be suspect. Polarity on the clutch is important because it has a diode.

I agree with the guys recommending using a test light to replace the fuse. I looked a little for a wiring diagram for this and all I found were some pretty poor ones. It did look like there could be other components down stream of the fuses besides the clutch. A good schematic would help a lot.

I agree with Sebculb. It's always good practice to sweat the moisture out of thicker metals. These look like shrinkage cracks to me. Slower travel speed would help and it looks like you were making fairly large skip aheads in your welding motion, leaving little fill material and slag inclusions.

I would think you would have to have a poor high resistance connection to melt a fuse like that. probably the fuse holder itself. But then you have tissue of blowing the fuse too. Possibly turn to turn short in the clutch coil causing higher than normal amp draw.

Might be possible to make studs of the appropriate length and weld them to the casting. Would depend on if there is enough room to drop the top cover over the studs.

I had that issue on my BX22 not long after new. Dealer thought my leak was the gage sending unit as there was a Kubota repair for that as a leak issue. I pulled the tank and used teflon tape on those fittings and they are still holding about 20 years later.

It looks to me like the leaking hose is crimped to the steel line. After a visit to Messick's and viewing the parts diagrams, it is indeed the load monitoring system as Harry in Ky pointed out. I couldn't tell in the parts diagram but I believe the steel line is attached with a banjo bolt, so...

Had it happen to me yesterday.

Your BX1860 is several generations newer than anything I have, but I think this still applies. The fuel valve rod would be extended when in the run position and retracted to kill the engine. It is on a timer and and will retract when the switch is turned off and then return the run position...

There is a factory spec. for allowable leakage for your valve. It's a fact of life that loader valves leak. Some more than others. The spools have to have enough clearance to move hence the leakage path. The tighter the clearance, the less leakage. I expect what you are seeing is pretty normal...

My last go around with a pocket gopher ended with the use of a Macabee Snap Trap. Got him the very first try with that trap. This was after multiple attempts with the smoke bombs. Also was an area with no safe direction to shoot, which is how others have been dispatched. That trap worked great.

While you have enough flow to run the mower, I would be concerned if the tractor has enough hydraulic cooling capacity to run a continuous flow like that in the heat of summer. I would want a PTO driven mower.

I've used LoveJoys and others with the same design and it "kind of" looks like 1/2 of one. My bet is on the coupling too.

Never seen a shaft coupling like that. Looks like 1/2 of something. Does the suction line have wire reinforcing to prevent collapsing? Looks like plain old heater hose but may be something else. So the engine sounds the same now as it did before when it was working? Sounds the same when...

Filter should be on the return side so I don't see that being the problem. Maybe a collapsed suction line? Does the engine labor at all when trying a function? Could we get a picture showing the engine to pump connection and plumbing?

Tractor Time with Tim had that on his YouTube channel not long ago. I don't think Deere made it.

I have a BX22 which is the TLB version of a BX2200. I know where the filter is and has never been a problem for me, but I'm out on the prairie and don't have the ground hazards that some encounter. Is your HST fan still intact? That is more prone to damage than the filter. I would look at JEGs...

It's a bypass valve. Opens when pressure gets too high due to cold oil or dirty filter and allows oil to bypass the filter. So is the filter mount damaged? The only filter relocations I've seen have a ported plate that screws on in place of the filter and then hoses are run to the relocated...

Are we talking engine oil filter or transmission filter? Both have pressure bypass valves. As to rerouting I would think it would be difficult if it is too damaged to accept a filter. Pictures would be a big help. If it's just the threaded nipple broken off, they are a replaceable part. You can...

This was likely part of the chassis harness. Hopefully it was just disconnected and laying out of sight somewhere. That switch would go to a relay that would power a solenoid valve that would hydraulically release the fwd clutch. That model tractor originated as a Case CX100 made by Case from...

Build it like Jims 1025R did and use four bolt bearings like he did. You already have the sprockets and chain. Might have to come up with different shafts. Like has been pointed out, you have a tremendous amount of leverage working on bearings too close together. Having the sprockets between the...

Yep. Missed that.

Not all 8' snowblowers are created equal. Is it a single auger or a double auger? What diameter is the impeller? If it's double auger with large fan it could take a 100+HP. A single auger with a 24" impeller your 50HP would probably work but might be slow going. I'm in the camp that you can...

I think I had this OP confused with the another thread that had a hydrostatic pump with parts laying the ground. Thanks for straightening me out.

This has me confused. Was it or wasn't it? Did the gear pump cause the destruction or the piston pump for the hydro? If the gear pump, having that hose disconnected likely did blow it up.

That is what I asked you in post #3.

Do you have the hose that would connect to the backhoe plugged into the back of the tractor completing the circuit? Have you cycled all loader functions to their limits multiple times to force all the air out?

It does state to check the bolt tightness. I don't believe he ever answered my question. I doubt the loose and missing bolts caused the gearbox issue, but without knowing how it's built, I wouldn't completely rule that out as a possibility.

The manual says to check tightness before the first use and after 2 hours of use. Did you do that? Should you have to? Looks like Woodmaxx ought to consider using locktite on their bolts.

Should be none. I wonder if the cap screw are even tight.

That's all I would expect unless there is more than I see here. Looking at the parts diagram it looks like taper lock bushing in the pulleys. Pretty easy to align if you are familiar them or have the instructions. I really wonder if the belts are tight enough, or if the slip clutch is too tight...

I found a free download online. Can't tell you where, but it is out there.

I looked up a Carquest 85546 filter. Looks to be a 16 micron with no bypass. Way too fine for a suction filter I would think.

My 10' has 4" cylinders.

I would expect broken or bent bolts before that, but yea, I was thinking the same thing.

Interesting thread. Oldnslo is giving great advise. That is one seriously ugly suction plumbing. Upside down filter? Suction line with a loop higher than both the pump and tank? Surely the factory didn't do that. May not have anything to do with your problem, but how do you ever get all the air...

You need to get that water off the road if you want long lasting results from you grading efforts. You need to do some drainage work.

This is all spot on. I too maintained roads for the county road and bridge for a few years right out of high school. Getting people to slow down and not accelerate up the hill that has the 90 degree corner at the bottom is my biggest road maintenance nightmare. That it has been SO dry compounds it.

Thanks for posting that. I was thinking of rebuilding my Bison's tailwheel because I don't like the way it works. Better than nothing but not great. Now I know what I want to build.

They are Duro 90 O-ring which is harder than most of your commonly found O-rings. A hydraulic supply store is your best bet.

3

That may be a form of hydraulic self leveling. It would use the flow generated by the boom movement to supplement or detract from the curl cylinders.

I believe construction equipment also tends to use induction hardened rods too, at least that's what I saw in my time in a shop that rebuilt cylinders.

I would guess the major reason is cost. There are lots of benefits to that system. Probably not deemed necessary on a lower capacity CUT, utility, or farm tractor application.

It's an on/off switch powering a relay. The only way I can see a soft start or anti stall function is if the ECM (which supplies the ground for said relay) is providing it.

To be honest this is the first I've heard of a loader being plumbed this way. Maybe some of the old Farmhands we had in the early 70's that were old then were that way and I never had a reason to notice, or probably didn't have the knowledge to know it was different. Only took most of 3 pages to...

Wow. Sorry I tried to help. I stand by everything I posted and if you do a little research I think you'll find it's accurate. Not going to argue with you.

Pretty hard good advise with such little information, but I'll try. This is on 1957 Case tractor of unknown model. The pump might be a PTO pump? This pump draws form a reservoir on the loader? The valve was replaced for some reason? There should not be a filter between the reservoir and the pump...

It's a simple on/off switch powering a relay that operates the solenoid valve. The only thing I see unusual about the circuit is the relay gets it's ground through the ECU.

I don't think the foot clutch has any effect on the PTO. Worth a try though.

Looked in the WSM and the only adjustment is for pressure. It uses a Bellville washer to soften the engagement. Unless the pressure is set too high, it looks like there is no easy remedy. Getting to the clutch requires a split. The solenoid valve is external and if one could reduce the flow to...

The seat presence switch only sounds an alarm on my 7060. Doesn't stop the PTO or kill the tractor. I have not had this issue with mine on a 12' batwing or a 7' rotary. I would think that engagement should be adjustable, as it is a hydraulic clutch. Might have to take a look in the WSM.

That is required here too. I would use them even if it wasn't required.

Since he has the bolt, it certainly won't hurt to try that. A tap or chaser would be more effective. The reason he is having trouble starting a 16x1.5 bolt is the amount of paint that is in the holes. It may be difficult to get a homemade chaser to start too. Having started a career in machining...

I'm fortunate to work in a shop that is well equipped and will let me borrow things like taps. Don't be alarmed if your tap brings some metal out with the paint. I noticed on all the holes I have chased with a tap on this tractor the tap cuts a little in the very root of the thread. Good luck...

Your not going to screw any bolt in those holes with out running a tap in them to clean the paint and crap out first. A 16x1.5 tap screws in with little effort. That IS the size. Not guessing.

Center line of the rears are adjustable from a minimum of 55.9 to maximum of 67.7 on a M7060.

We have similar conditions with snow over mud and almost never having a base that would hold up a blower or blade. The shoes, or skis, I have on the Woodmax are 8"x12".

I have the Woodmax 84". It's a beast. Yes it's got metric fasteners. It is not a Comer gearbox. Not sure what your point is on knowing what the ratio is? It works fine as is. The shoes are adjustable. I made oversize ones for mine. It's a lot of blower for the money. Yes it's made in China. I...

I brought a 16x1.5 tap home from work and that is the bolt size for those holes.

I was looking at the wrong holes now that I see a picture with some surrounding features. I apologize for misleading you. I did not use those holes so I've not had a bolt in them. I can confirm that a 14 slides right in them. I'm pretty sure they will be 16x1.5. Definetly will be a metric fine...

Can you take a picture of these holes? I went back and looked at your original post with the picture and those holes on my 7060 are 14mm. Are you looking at holes further back toward the drawbar bracket?

It's a 30 degree cone seat, shared with JIS. JIC is 37 degree. I about mentioned Komatsu when JIS was mentioned, but there seems to be lots of confusion already. Then we could discuss DIN, French, and various other hydraulic standards from around the world. The JIS got us way off in the weeds.

Almost. Komatsu uses metric threads, JIS are British, but both are 30 degree.

The M is a larger frame tractor than L's or MX's. This a utility tractor not a compact. What the designed usage of the holes are I can't tell you. I believe Neil Messick had a video of a boom or bank mower mid mount that might have utilized them in some way. It was on the highest HP version of...

So I crawled under my M7060 this afternoon, and as I thought, they are 14x1.5. You definitely want to run a tap or thread chaser in the holes. You might get a bolt in the holes without cleaning the paint and crap out of them first, or you might not. I work in a machine shop so I just borrowed...

And the japanese have 30 degree JIS. I deal with it regularly on Okuma CNC machines.

If they are the same as my M7060, I'm thinking they are 14x1.5. If I think of it I'll check to be sure but it might not be until the weekend. Menards had them.

Up 12' from yesterday

I had 1 of those working in the front yard and another in the windbreak. I tried drowning them, trapping them, smoke bombing them. I finally collapsed their tunnels and then sit out with the .22 in the evening. Got them both that way as they pushed dirt up out of the tunnels. I only spent maybe...

Wow. That's a first for me. Inner bearing must be completely gone. You need to get it apart and see if the axle and hub are salvagable.

I recommend doing the service yourself if your even modestly mechanical. Good way to get to know your tractor. Trailers are great. I have several. Don't buy one just barely big enough. You want room on the bed to position the tractor (and implement in the future) to get the trailer tongue weight...

You would think a pressure relief valve would open before that destruction would happen. I'm not at all familiar with your tractor, but I would think there would be some device to cancel the raise input before the cylinder deadheaded. If there isn't it would be a first in my limited experience.

www.vintagemachinery.org

I was referring to the rusting issues calcium causes. His apparently has no tubes and the calcium is leaking from the beads. I've never been around calcium used without a tube. Looks like a bad idea. I've seen rims that have had calcium in them for 50 years and still going. But they had tubes in...

Valve cores used with calcium need to be changed out every 2 or 3 years. Easy to do. Just jack that side up, rotate the valve stem to the top, let the air out and change it. There are better alternatives to calcium now, but it's been used for 75 years. Nothing to panic about. Likely nothing...

I'd worry about cylinder wear too. I would take the skid steer quick coupler off and see if that gives any clues and if it is also binding. I'd spend some time with a tape measure, straight edge, string line, level, etc. and see if you can determine where the bend is.

Likely popped the piston off of one of the rods.

I think you need to check voltages at the loads. If you don't know how to do a voltage drop test, there are good videos on Youtube. I think you have a flakey connection or bad cable or wire somewhere.

You need to know what the CFM of the engine driven fan is and then see if you can find an electric fan of similar CFM. I doubt you will find one. If you do find one. Do you have enough alternator reserve to power it? Is it reversible? The reversible fans in larger equipment is hydraulically...

I agree with others saying that it isn't a fuel issue. That would be indicated my sputtering to a stop. The only possibility I can think of on the fuel supply side would a float sticking. My last gas tractor left the place about 15 years ago. If this was my tractor I would switch it over to...

I would guess load checks also providing it has them.

Having made quite a few new rods for cylinders from purchased new materials (comes in 20' sticks), I can assure you that even new ones aren't perfectly straight, and don't need to be. Rolling it on a flat surface is good enough.

That would point to a valve issue then. Either misadjusted or leaking internally.

In my limited experience with this problem, it has been either leaking cylinder(s), or the the 3-point valve itself is leaking. My experience is with JI Case tractors and there were ball check valves built into the 3-point control valve that would leak or get crap stuck in them. No experience...

Is this a Woodland MFG saw? Found a couple of Youtube videos that look a lot like it. The one had the Kubota engine running only the blade via a hydraulic motor and a 8 HP Honda running all the other other hydraulic functions. That did appear to be gear pump on the Honda.

I believe Oldnslo is giving you great advice.

Oldnslo. I thought about throwing the two pump possibility out there too. RD. Did you make any changes to the way it was plumbed? If the valves are open centered, you should be able to blow air from the pressure end to the return end. No air = closed center.

There are pressure relief valves on the right hand end of both valve banks. Curious what the smaller hose on the relief valve is. Pilot operated relief maybe? The grey valve in the top left of picture 3. Is that the valve that operates the carriage motor direction? Is it plumbed to one of the...

I agree that what is drawn is a closed center system. You don't find tees on the pressure side of an open center system. What is operating the hydraulic motor? Is there a valve not shown? If it's as drawn the pump would not be dead headed as there would be flow through the motor to the tank.

The least I would do is drill piers to undisturbed soil so the building itself will not settle. You can add fill to keep the interior level as it settles. If you're going to have concrete, I would start over with proper compaction and pick out the bigger rocks and debris. That much fill would...

This plus check your voltage at the starter while attempting to start the tractor. That can aid in determining if you have a cable problem or battery problem by the difference compared to at the battery voltage.

Take it to a hydraulic shop and have them hone it.

I had carpal tunnel and ring finger triggers fixed on both hands at the same time. The trigger fingers were more painful after surgery than the carpal. That was about 15 years ago and I have one of those fingers trigger again occasionally in the past couple of years. Actually having all that...

NE Wyoming. We are in D3 Extreme Drought. Paper says we have had about 1/2 of usual precipitation since October. The rain keeps missing us. Lots of dry lightening though.

I wouldn't say that there's not other oils as good if not better than the Kubota's, but I'll stick with Kubota's oil in their hydrostatic transmissions. My dealer is 110 miles away. I keep oil on hand for my Kubota's.

We have the smoke here too. It's going to be like this until the snow puts the fires out. This morning our smoke is probably mostly local as we have a couple of fires pretty close. 5300 acre fire 50 miles west and the Poverty Flats fire in Montana at 84 square miles as of yesterday. A couple of...

Kubota Super UDT oil.

That would work.

Same thing.

No. You want a selector valve.

You need to search "selector valve".

I watch him too. This video inspired me to fix my BX22 steering. It was just starting to have issues noticeable at higher speeds.

If you have more than one top link mounting hole on the tractor, it needs to be in the lowest hole. That position will let the mower follow the ground better and not transfer the tractor weight to the mower when crossing low points. That may be the cause of your problems.

Your BX should be putting out about 2000 PSI so go with the steel fittings.

You're probably going to have to use couplings and bushings to get from the 1/2" to 1/4" Be sure to use hydraulic fittings and not just iron plumbing fittings on the pressure side. Curious how this works out. Looks like a lot weight up high for a little tractor. Are you going to be able to pick...

We had a 1000 amp horizontal Lincoln at work that we used for sub arc welding. Also saw some use air arcing with 1/2" carbons. You could move some metal with that! And yes, the machine was kind of obnoxious to listen too. Used it up until about 2005 or so.

Use a propane or butane torch and warm it up. It will expand rapidly. With it upside down it might fall off or might need a little help to free it from oil stiction.

Man I pity anybody trying to build anything now. Prices and availability are just nuts. If it were me and I could find the conduit, I would at least try to bury 1 1/4" to allow a 100 amp sub panel if not now, at least in the future. You need to know what code is for your locale and if it has to...

I have to agree with LDI's assessment. The "loose" bolts are normal. I personally snug them up to the point of contact, but it's not really necessary. Only that the nylon part of the lock nut is engaged in the thread. The 3-point grease points only need a small amount of grease and once a year...

Just to clarify, I took the vents out of the existing cylinders and ran hoses so they operate as double acting.

I guess I missed stating that I made all the cylinders double acting, so I have power down also.

I would stick with the Kubota filter and UDT on a hydrostatic tractor. The most hassle free hose replacement option is to buy from your dealer or either Messick or Coleman online. Local places should be able to make hoses per sample. I've used Discount Hydraulic Hose and Hose And Fittings.com...

I have the same mower. I run the wings separately like you want via the 2nd and 3rd remotes. Those 2 remotes need to have float positions. If you have the owners manual for the mower it shows a kit for the hoses and fittings to do this. I just bought hoses and fittings myself and installed them...

The relay fix is for low voltage at the starter solenoid. The symptom is the solenoid has a weak click and the starter doesn't engage. I've done this fix for both my ZD21 and BX22. Have you changed fuel filters? Sounds like a lack of fuel or glow plugs if it is cold enough. You might also look...

Likely need to reseal the steering cylinder. South Main Auto Repair on Youtube has a good video on doing the repair on a BX. Inspired me to get around to fixing my BX22.

Maintenance wise there are quite a few grease points on them and you will have 3 slip clutches to take care of. I also run mine off of three remotes. Note that the wings need to have a float position on the valves.

B side will be pulling so A side would the slack side.