Bushhogging a a hill

[Shawn T. W.]

I mow the top by the fence, following it, then just back down the few places between the trees ... Then nose up to the fence, and back over a mower width on the way back down, and pull back up to the fence, no turning around.

This is the same place as that first picture, the little tree to the left of the tractor is the same one that is just barely in front of it in the other picture ...

Like I said earlier ... My tractor tires are directional, and I can't drive completely through that area, as it's too sharp of a transition at the bottom that goes back up the other side, so at least I know I can drive back up.

 

[cmyoung2]

I run a Kubota L3600 and a BX2230 with a 50" flail mower. The L has R4 tires, rears loaded, with a loader. The BX has turf tires, rears loaded w/chains, loader. My hill is steeper than the angle shown. I have no where to turn around on top, sometimes no runout on the bottom. I always back up, mow down, 4x4 in a slow gear. I found if I drive up the hill and get in trouble, backing down is scary. Driving down, if there are issues I can still steer and can drop the bucket. On some of my less steep ground, close to the angle shown, I have to back down because of the fence.(I'm lazy, don't want to weedeat 10' of fenceline. The big thing, go slow, watch for holes, keep the tractor fairly straight, and use the seatbelt/rollbar. I usually work for maybe hr and take a break for my nerves. Almost 70 and have been around equipment most of my life. You may just have to figure out what is most comfortable for you, but that angle is doable.

 

[bcp]

Thank you for all the feedback. I have two questions:

1. If I choose to tackle it, should I go front first down the hill, and if so why?

2. bcp - please tell me more about engine oil starvation. I assume the oil can pool away from the oil pump? How common is this?

Google AI, for what it's worth:

While Kubota does not provide a single specific numerical slope degree in the M7060 operator manual exclusively for oil starvation, industry standards and manufacturer safety guidelines establish clear operational limits for the machine.

Critical Slope Limitations

• Engine Design Limit: Standard off-highway engines are generally engineered to maintain oil pressure at angles up to 20–30 degrees in any direction, provided the oil level is at the "full" mark.
• Manufacturer Safety Standard: Many manufacturers, including Kubota and competitors, recommend a maximum safe operating limit of 15–20 degrees for general utility work to prevent both oil circulation issues and rollover risks.
• Operational Risk: Beyond 25 degrees, engine performance may suffer as oil circulation becomes compromised, even if the machine remains stable.

Monitoring and Safety Signs

If you must operate on steep terrain, monitor these indicators to prevent engine damage:

• Oil Pressure Warning Light: If this light illuminates, the engine is likely at 7 PSI or lower, indicating a critical failure in lubrication. Stop the engine immediately.
• Oil Level: Always maintain the oil at the top mark on the dipstick when working on hills. Angles that are safe at full oil levels may cause starvation if the oil is near the "add" mark.

Bruce

 

[Buxus]

That's good to hear that backing down is the preferred approach. About 20 more feet I can mow.

Here are some photos of the slope. And Boyd and Opal.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

The cut areas look like a piece of cake

Hard telling the lay of the land in the high uncut stuff, sure your pups know though!

 

[big bubba]

That's good to hear that backing down is the preferred approach. About 20 more feet I can mow.

Here are some photos of the slope. And Boyd and Opal.

what is your intent of this area once mowed, ascetics, pasture? what will you sow?

 

[RayIN]

That's good to hear that backing down is the preferred approach. About 20 more feet I can mow.

Here are some photos of the slope. And Boyd and Opal.

I would be considering a good brush killer for what you cannot safely mow.

 

[Buxus]

The main problem is the wisteria. The ground is covered in vines running along the surface and just below. It looks like cables everywhere. The thickest climbing parts are as big as my thigh.

My plan is Garlon 4 on the parts of the vines I can see along the ground. Then keep the area mowed so that the remaining vines are depleted of energy over the next few years with no leaves. The weeds that grow will look like grass when mowed. But will be far from it...There will be a deer fence running about 60 feet down the slope, and I will worry less about what happens between it and the water simply because control of so much area seems impossible. My goal is to maintain a view from the top of the hill, and to keep the fence clear of vines.

I've done this on flat parts of the property and have succeeded in converting wisteria infested areas into field mowed "grass." In areas where the vines are finally eradicated I let the natives (mostly Eupatorium) fill in (September is gorgeous when they are all in bloom).

Here's the view in the opposite direction from the top of the same hill in early November. About 30 feet to the left of the tree line was all fallen trees and vines that I cleared over a few winters about 7 years ago.

 

[yanmars]

One just has to be careful about what some describe as a negative. That can upset the apple cart pretty quickly.
Had that in hidden areas with both the ATV and 4 wheel drive tractor.

 

[Fetch_21]

25 deg is no problem. We do that and more all the time, as areas near our house are very steep. Back down, drive up. It gives you better reach with the cutter and better traction out. Always 4WD. For any undulations, just be sure to always keep the nose of the tractor pointing straight up the hill. It might mean an extra trip up & down, but not worth the risk. Follow the line that keeps you vertical. It can be frustrating sometimes to not be able to make a consistent pattern, but so be it. Take it very easy the first time or two to get your bearings. Then, no problem. Lifting the cutter puts a little more weight on the back tires if ever needed for traction. If in doubt, don't.

 

[dieselscout80]

Side hilling on 25 degree slope for me is no problem even though I don’t like doing it by my pond even though I have to.

I wouldn’t do it if it is wet because of the potential for sliding sideways it the water.

 

[2manyrocks]

Any moisture can cause tires to loose traction on a hillside. I tend to do our hillside mowing in the fall when it is the driest. The spring is a no-go for me because I've found that the moisture in the ground after the winter means that the turf can shear away from under the tires.

 

[RaydaKub]

I measured my hill at 23 degrees. My little BX with turfs crawls up and down easily. I have been on the hill totally across the slope and it sure can feel tippy or not depending on how the tractor is equipped. My first year on the property, I had to get my mind wrapped around how stable it was. I loaded it with all the weights I had (filled tires, 50lbs in wheel weights, 260 lbs on the 3pt. I parked on the sidehill with the bucket just above the ground. I pushed on the ROPS with one hand and lifted the back wheel. Then I went back to the garage and removed all the weights and the bucket (well, not the fluid). I parked at the same place and couldn't push it hard enough to lift the wheel at all. So keep in mind that the bucket itself can cause stability issues. (A little BX bucket is about 400 lbs.)

For the first time, I would back down it and drive back up. Keep the bucket on to balance out the cutter. I bet in a year or 2 you won't care which way you go.

 

[johneking]

I am clearing the upper 60 feet of a slope that extends about 150 feet down to the shoreline. It is overgrown with invasives (wisteria, asian bittersweet, and Japanese honeysuckle). I am clearing about 200 horizontal feet. I am doing this with a chainsaw and loppers and making good progress. Downed trees (scaffolding for the vines) are pulled out with chains and moved to the burn pile.

Once cleared, I'd like to keep the vines from coming back by keeping it mowed every few weeks.

I have a Kubota M7060 HD 12 4WD with filled R4 tires, wheels spaced at the max, and a FEL. I would be mowing with a semi-mount 6 foot rotary cutter, medium duty. I would back down the 60 feet to the tree line, then come straight back up. Then move over and repeat. There would be no sideways mowing.

The slope is 25 degrees. It seems doable to me, but what do you all think - too steep?