Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions?

[spruce Deere]

Pipe on the cutting bit works good.

I had done the same thing a few years back with a thinner wall pipe on the 3 pt blade. The top link adjustment was not as important with the pipe on the cutting bit going forward or reverse.

At the end of plowing that winter, the thin wall pipe i had used was bent and had wore in spots, cut it off and just have not replaced it since.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Pipe dreams in the pinions does have a decent ring to it.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Here are some photos of me plowing my road a couple weeks ago with the back blade reversed and floated on the road. It leaves about an inch of snow on top the gravel. This was only about 11-12” of snow, but it works the same with deeper snow. The key is the top link angle and having the blade offset and angled to kick show to the ditch. Been doing this for over 25 years.

I haven't had much luck pushing snow off into the ditch with the blade reversed. My blade is pretty cluttered with reinforcements on the back and tends to clump and drag the snow instead of pushing it along the blade.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Pipe dreams in the pinions does have a decent ring to it.

Yes, the notion of a 'drop and go' plowing tractor seems to be a pipe dream lol.

 

[jyoutz]

I haven't had much luck pushing snow off into the ditch with the blade reversed. My blade is pretty cluttered with reinforcements on the back and tends to clump and drag the snow instead of pushing it along the blade.

Two things: 1) play with the top link angles; and 2) offset the blade and angle it. This has always worked well for me, but it will clump and drag if you don’t angle and offset the blade. In my photos you can see that it will move snow to the side.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Two things: 1) play with the top link angles; and 2) offset the blade and angle it. This has always worked well for me, but it will clump and drag if you don’t angle and offset the blade. In my photos you can see that it will move snow to the side.

I have a hydraulic top link now, so it will be easier to play with that, but I've always angled the blade and offset it. In fact I now have title, angle, offset, top link and gauge wheel controls on hydraulics.

I can try again, but I think my blade wasn't designed to back blade snow. I should get rid of those vertical posts (previous owner modification).... that might help and I haven't found a good use for them.

 

[jyoutz]

I have a hydraulic top link now, so it will be easier to play with that, but I've always angled the blade and offset it. In fact I now have title, angle, offset, top link and gauge wheel controls on hydraulics.

I can try again, but I think my blade wasn't designed to back blade snow. I should get rid of those vertical posts (previous owner modification).... that might help and I haven't found a good use for them.

That could in fact be the problem. I also have a Bison blade, but it is standard without modification or gauge wheels. It could be those additions that are catching and dragging snow instead of allowing it to be pushed to the side. Here is mine in the reversed position.

 

[ArlyA]

I have a local guy that gets it from the oil fields. Cost me $35 for 9ft length 1/4" thick, 2 & 3/4" dia. J55 tool grade steel, schedule 80.

Its 2 and 7/8 well tubing. Its what's in the well casing to pump oil up in. Welded LOTS on that crap.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Here is mine in the reversed position.View attachment 4625042

What does it look like on the backside, which is what matters when back dragging?

 

[oosik]

My gravel driveway is a mile long - right down the section line. I have a 1000 pound Rhino rear blade. Reversed when not hard frozen - straight on when hard as bedrock.

Not had to plow snow since the winter of 2020-2021. Nobody can convince me that we aren't experiencing dramatic changes in the weather.

 

[hoofty]

I did the same thing 10 years ago. I welded 3 steel straps to the pipe, each about a foot long and drilled a hole at the end of the strap through the plow blade. I can take the pipe off in a few minutes by removing the bolts. Works good in my stone driveway. It should be heavier. And I should weld a plate over the open ends of the pipe because when the blade is angled it collects dirt and stone It angles using the hydraulic hoses that curl the bucket when that is mounted. I plan to add about 200 #'s to it to give more down pressure. I have 400#'s of weights on the 3pt.scrapper blade that I plow backwards with.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

That could in fact be the problem. I also have a Bison blade, but it is standard without modification or gauge wheels. It could be those additions that are catching and dragging snow instead of allowing it to be pushed to the side. Here is mine in the reversed position.View attachment 4625042

Lookn' good, but as TMK said, we need to see what it looks like on back of the blade. Got a pic?

 

[In.the.Piñons]

I did the same thing 10 years ago. I welded 3 steel straps to the pipe, each about a foot long and drilled a hole at the end of the strap through the plow blade. I can take the pipe off in a few minutes by removing the bolts. Works good in my stone driveway. It should be heavier. And I should weld a plate over the open ends of the pipe because when the blade is angled it collects dirt and stone It angles using the hydraulic hoses that curl the bucket when that is mounted. I plan to add about 200 #'s to it to give more down pressure. I have 400#'s of weights on the 3pt.scrapper blade that I plow backwards with.

My rear blade is about 1,800lbs. Honestly, I think it's too heavy sometimes as it likes to sink in too much.

 

[Topzide]

Weld some skid plates on the bottom of the pipe. That way you can have to right angle on them to keep it on top of your gravel. The only other way would be to have a larger diameter pipe. Good luck.

 

[jyoutz]

Lookn' good, but as TMK said, we need to see what it looks like on back of the blade. Got a pic?

I’m on vacation now. Send me a PM to remind me and I’ll snap a pic when I return after the 29th.

 

[jyoutz]

My rear blade is about 1,800lbs. Honestly, I think it's too heavy sometimes as it likes to sink in too much.

That’s why if you adjust the top link so the cutting edge points to the rear and positioned like a squeegee it will skim over the gravel. It won’t sink in if the cutting edge is angled correctly.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Does that angle matter when there's a pipe instead of a cutting edge?

 

[jyoutz]

Does that angle matter when there's a pipe instead of a cutting edge?

IDK. I’ve never tried or needed to use a pipe. I think a pipe is a great solution for front plows that can’t be reversed, but reversal of the moldboard is all that’s necessary for a rear blade.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

IDK. I’ve never tried or needed to use a pipe. I think a pipe is a great solution for front plows that can’t be reversed, but reversal of the moldboard is all that’s necessary for a rear blade.

Also never tried pipe, but know that even with a small light blade used backwards it's not always "gravel proof", depending on the snow and temps.

To put things in perspective, I sometimes use my 9' blade (which is very similar to the OP's) in reversed position to fix the driveway, successfully restoring the crown, when too lazy to switch to the land plane.

If I run it reversed on anything less than a solid base of hardpacked snow/ice it would remove gravel unless I carefully keep it just high enough.

And when there is a good solid frozen base it still doesn't work all that well even with dry fluffy snow. With more wet snow, forget it. Then the snow just piles up in front of it and either starts spilling over the top or begins to lift the blade. Sometimes even letting snow come out at the leading edge of the blade although it's a max angle.

That's all because the snow just won't slide past all the obstacles on the backside of the blade. It almost becomes a snow pusher, except being pulled.

 

[jyoutz]

Also never tried pipe, but know that even with a small light blade used backwards it's not always "gravel proof", depending on the snow and temps.

To put things in perspective, I sometimes use my 9' blade (which is very similar to the OP's) in reversed position to fix the driveway, successfully restoring the crown, when too lazy to switch to the land plane.

If I run it reversed on anything less than a solid base of hardpacked snow/ice it would remove gravel unless I carefully keep it just high enough.

And when there is a good solid frozen base it still doesn't work all that well even with dry fluffy snow. With more wet snow, forget it. Then the snow just piles up in front of it and either starts spilling over the top or begins to lift the blade. Sometimes even letting snow come out at the leading edge of the blade although it's a max angle.

That's all because the snow just won't slide past all the obstacles on the backside of the blade. It almost becomes a snow pusher, except being pulled.

That has not been my experience. If it’s pulling gravel the blade is too perpendicular. Shorten the top link and let the blade ride over the road at more of an angle.

Edited to add: Yes I also use the blade reversed to spread gravel to re-crown my road. If the blade is nearly perpendicular to the road, it will move gravel, even with the blade reversed. But if it’s angled so that the cutting edge lays flatter behind, it will then act as a squeegee while floating the blade and move snow without moving gravel.