Putting a 2.75" hardened steel pipe on rear blade for plowing in soft conditions?

[spruce Deere]

Pipe on the cutting bit works good.

I had done the same thing a few years back with a thinner wall pipe on the 3 pt blade. The top link adjustment was not as important with the pipe on the cutting bit going forward or reverse.

At the end of plowing that winter, the thin wall pipe i had used was bent and had wore in spots, cut it off and just have not replaced it since.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Pipe dreams in the pinions does have a decent ring to it.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Here are some photos of me plowing my road a couple weeks ago with the back blade reversed and floated on the road. It leaves about an inch of snow on top the gravel. This was only about 11-12” of snow, but it works the same with deeper snow. The key is the top link angle and having the blade offset and angled to kick show to the ditch. Been doing this for over 25 years.

I haven't had much luck pushing snow off into the ditch with the blade reversed. My blade is pretty cluttered with reinforcements on the back and tends to clump and drag the snow instead of pushing it along the blade.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Pipe dreams in the pinions does have a decent ring to it.

Yes, the notion of a 'drop and go' plowing tractor seems to be a pipe dream lol.

 

[jyoutz]

I haven't had much luck pushing snow off into the ditch with the blade reversed. My blade is pretty cluttered with reinforcements on the back and tends to clump and drag the snow instead of pushing it along the blade.

Two things: 1) play with the top link angles; and 2) offset the blade and angle it. This has always worked well for me, but it will clump and drag if you don’t angle and offset the blade. In my photos you can see that it will move snow to the side.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Two things: 1) play with the top link angles; and 2) offset the blade and angle it. This has always worked well for me, but it will clump and drag if you don’t angle and offset the blade. In my photos you can see that it will move snow to the side.

I have a hydraulic top link now, so it will be easier to play with that, but I've always angled the blade and offset it. In fact I now have title, angle, offset, top link and gauge wheel controls on hydraulics.

I can try again, but I think my blade wasn't designed to back blade snow. I should get rid of those vertical posts (previous owner modification).... that might help and I haven't found a good use for them.

 

[jyoutz]

I have a hydraulic top link now, so it will be easier to play with that, but I've always angled the blade and offset it. In fact I now have title, angle, offset, top link and gauge wheel controls on hydraulics.

I can try again, but I think my blade wasn't designed to back blade snow. I should get rid of those vertical posts (previous owner modification).... that might help and I haven't found a good use for them.

That could in fact be the problem. I also have a Bison blade, but it is standard without modification or gauge wheels. It could be those additions that are catching and dragging snow instead of allowing it to be pushed to the side. Here is mine in the reversed position.

 

[ArlyA]

I have a local guy that gets it from the oil fields. Cost me $35 for 9ft length 1/4" thick, 2 & 3/4" dia. J55 tool grade steel, schedule 80.

Its 2 and 7/8 well tubing. Its what's in the well casing to pump oil up in. Welded LOTS on that crap.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Here is mine in the reversed position.View attachment 4625042

What does it look like on the backside, which is what matters when back dragging?

 

[oosik]

My gravel driveway is a mile long - right down the section line. I have a 1000 pound Rhino rear blade. Reversed when not hard frozen - straight on when hard as bedrock.

Not had to plow snow since the winter of 2020-2021. Nobody can convince me that we aren't experiencing dramatic changes in the weather.