Filling tires with ballast at home.

[orezok]

Living in the desert, freezing is not a big issue. It does get below 32, but it warms up during the day to above freezing. No issues for 20 years. I did add a couple of gallons of RV antifreeze to each tire as a little buffer for the colder days, and since water could cause rust in the wheel, I added 2 cans of auto water pump lube in each tire as it minimizes rust in the system and doesn’t hurt rubber.

 

[EdGooding]

Thanks for the post - always interested to see how folks accomplish this task. Tractor owners have discussed/debated/argued/fought over what to use for rear wheel ballast for many years now. Rather than stoke those fires, I thought I would use the latest version of ChatGPT (AI), and I asked this question:

"How does using RimGuard compare to using RV antifreeze or windshield washer and water combinations?" It only took seconds before I got this response:

Great question — lots of tractor owners debate RimGuard (beet juice) versus RV antifreeze and windshield washer fluid/water mixes. Each has different long-range implications for weight, freeze protection, safety, cost, and maintenance. Here’s a side-by-side breakdown:

1. Weight (Ballast Value)

RimGuard (beet juice): ~10.7–11.0 lb/gal. Heavier than water, washer fluid, or RV antifreeze, so you get more weight in the same tire volume.

RV Antifreeze (propylene glycol): ~8.3–8.6 lb/gal (similar to water). Much lighter than RimGuard, so you’d need larger tires or more volume to get equivalent weight.

Windshield washer fluid + water: ~7.6–8.0 lb/gal depending on mix. Also lighter, similar to RV antifreeze.

If maximum ballast is your priority, RimGuard wins hands-down.

2. Freeze Protection

RimGuard: Good to about -35°F (manufacturer spec). Works in most U.S./Canada climates.

RV Antifreeze: Usually protects to about -20°F to -50°F, depending on concentration. Very reliable for cold weather.

Washer fluid: Cheap blue washer fluid is generally good to -20°F, some premium types to -25°F. Mixed with water, protection drops proportionally.

In very cold climates (northern tier), RV antifreeze is safest, though RimGuard usually holds up fine unless you’re in Arctic temps.

3. Corrosion & Rim Life

RimGuard: Non-corrosive. Doesn’t attack rims like calcium chloride.

RV Antifreeze: Non-corrosive. Safe for rims and rubber.

Washer fluid: Usually non-corrosive (mostly water + methanol + dye). Generally safe, though cheaper formulations may have additives that are harsher on rubber long-term.

All three are better than calcium chloride. RimGuard and RV antifreeze are most rim-friendly.

4. Safety / Environmental Impact

RimGuard: Non-toxic, biodegradable, safe for livestock, pets, crops. A spill is a sticky mess, but not poisonous.

RV Antifreeze: Propylene glycol is considered “low toxicity,” but not something you’d want in soil or near livestock in quantity.

Washer fluid: Contains methanol, which is toxic to pets, livestock, and people. A leak or spill in a pasture or near animals could be risky.

For farms with animals or kids around, RimGuard is by far the safest.

5. Cost & Availability

RimGuard: Usually $3–4 per gallon installed at a dealer. You pay for the product + service. Not DIY-friendly unless you have the pump setup.

RV Antifreeze: $2–3/gal retail (cheaper in bulk, especially off-season). DIY-friendly.

Washer fluid: Cheapest option, sometimes <$2/gal at big box stores. Easy DIY fill.

Washer fluid is cheapest, but RimGuard costs more because of its weight advantage and environmental safety.

6. Practical Maintenance / Long-Range Issues

RimGuard:

Heavy → more stress on axles/bearings (true for any ballast).

Can be messy if you ever have to drain it.

Valve stems need to be liquid-rated to avoid clogging/leaks.

RV Antifreeze:

Light → may not provide enough counterweight for loader work.

Easy to top off or replace if a tube fails.

Washer fluid:

Lightest ballast, so often insufficient for heavy work.

Toxicity risk if a tube leaks into a barnyard or field.

Methanol can evaporate slowly through rubber tubes over years, reducing freeze protection.

Bottom Line

If you want maximum weight, long-term rim protection, and farm-safe environmental qualities → RimGuard is best (but higher cost, dealer install).

If you want a cheap, DIY, decent freeze-proof fill and don’t need maximum weight → RV antifreeze is a safer choice than washer fluid.

If you just want something quick and inexpensive, and you don’t have animals around → windshield washer fluid works, but it’s light and carries a toxicity risk.

A good rule of thumb:

Heavy loader work / hilly terrain / livestock nearby → RimGuard.

Moderate work / DIY budget-conscious → RV antifreeze.

Light duty / cheapest option → washer fluid.

 

[bluetim0]

what's wrong with water?? now I'm in Australia before you shout dumb question

 

[hayden]

what's wrong with water?? now I'm in Australia before you shout dumb question

Nothing at all. Best choice, as long as freeze protection isn't required.

 

[hayden]

Thanks for the post - always interested to see how folks accomplish this task. Tractor owners have discussed/debated/argued/fought over what to use for rear wheel ballast for many years now. Rather than stoke those fires, I thought I would use the latest version of ChatGPT (AI), and I asked this question:

"How does using RimGuard compare to using RV antifreeze or windshield washer and water combinations?" It only took seconds before I got this response:

Great question — lots of tractor owners debate RimGuard (beet juice) versus RV antifreeze and windshield washer fluid/water mixes. Each has different long-range implications for weight, freeze protection, safety, cost, and maintenance. Here’s a side-by-side breakdown:

1. Weight (Ballast Value)

RimGuard (beet juice): ~10.7–11.0 lb/gal. Heavier than water, washer fluid, or RV antifreeze, so you get more weight in the same tire volume.

RV Antifreeze (propylene glycol): ~8.3–8.6 lb/gal (similar to water). Much lighter than RimGuard, so you’d need larger tires or more volume to get equivalent weight.

Windshield washer fluid + water: ~7.6–8.0 lb/gal depending on mix. Also lighter, similar to RV antifreeze.

If maximum ballast is your priority, RimGuard wins hands-down.

2. Freeze Protection

RimGuard: Good to about -35°F (manufacturer spec). Works in most U.S./Canada climates.

RV Antifreeze: Usually protects to about -20°F to -50°F, depending on concentration. Very reliable for cold weather.

Washer fluid: Cheap blue washer fluid is generally good to -20°F, some premium types to -25°F. Mixed with water, protection drops proportionally.

In very cold climates (northern tier), RV antifreeze is safest, though RimGuard usually holds up fine unless you’re in Arctic temps.

3. Corrosion & Rim Life

RimGuard: Non-corrosive. Doesn’t attack rims like calcium chloride.

RV Antifreeze: Non-corrosive. Safe for rims and rubber.

Washer fluid: Usually non-corrosive (mostly water + methanol + dye). Generally safe, though cheaper formulations may have additives that are harsher on rubber long-term.

All three are better than calcium chloride. RimGuard and RV antifreeze are most rim-friendly.

4. Safety / Environmental Impact

RimGuard: Non-toxic, biodegradable, safe for livestock, pets, crops. A spill is a sticky mess, but not poisonous.

RV Antifreeze: Propylene glycol is considered “low toxicity,” but not something you’d want in soil or near livestock in quantity.

Washer fluid: Contains methanol, which is toxic to pets, livestock, and people. A leak or spill in a pasture or near animals could be risky.

For farms with animals or kids around, RimGuard is by far the safest.

5. Cost & Availability

RimGuard: Usually $3–4 per gallon installed at a dealer. You pay for the product + service. Not DIY-friendly unless you have the pump setup.

RV Antifreeze: $2–3/gal retail (cheaper in bulk, especially off-season). DIY-friendly.

Washer fluid: Cheapest option, sometimes <$2/gal at big box stores. Easy DIY fill.

Washer fluid is cheapest, but RimGuard costs more because of its weight advantage and environmental safety.

6. Practical Maintenance / Long-Range Issues

RimGuard:

Heavy → more stress on axles/bearings (true for any ballast).

Can be messy if you ever have to drain it.

Valve stems need to be liquid-rated to avoid clogging/leaks.

RV Antifreeze:

Light → may not provide enough counterweight for loader work.

Easy to top off or replace if a tube fails.

Washer fluid:

Lightest ballast, so often insufficient for heavy work.

Toxicity risk if a tube leaks into a barnyard or field.

Methanol can evaporate slowly through rubber tubes over years, reducing freeze protection.

Bottom Line

If you want maximum weight, long-term rim protection, and farm-safe environmental qualities → RimGuard is best (but higher cost, dealer install).

If you want a cheap, DIY, decent freeze-proof fill and don’t need maximum weight → RV antifreeze is a safer choice than washer fluid.

If you just want something quick and inexpensive, and you don’t have animals around → windshield washer fluid works, but it’s light and carries a toxicity risk.

A good rule of thumb:

Heavy loader work / hilly terrain / livestock nearby → RimGuard.

Moderate work / DIY budget-conscious → RV antifreeze.

Light duty / cheapest option → washer fluid.

Interestingly, this doesn't flag the issue with RV Antifreeze, which is that it becomes solid, or semi-solid at around 5F despite the "protection to -50F" headline. "Protection to -50F" is because it doesn't expand, even though it does become solid, and hence unsuitable as ballast. Also, the text presumes that RV Antifreeze is prop glycol based, and from what I have seen, few are. Most seem to be a combination of ethanol, glycerol, and propanol.

It also says that RimGuard is not DIY friendly because it requires a pump. Well, all of them require a pump. RimGuard isn't DIY friendly because you can't buy it for self-install.

So AI is just like any other source of info - partially correct, partially incorrect, and you need to figure out which parts or correct and which are not.

I remember a popular line from the early days of computing: "To err is human. To really foul things up requires a computer" It's never been more true.

 

[Happy in NC]

Does ballast affect the handling of the tractor?

 

[WinterDeere]

Does ballast affect the handling of the tractor?

Yes. Better stability, obviously, but also a rougher ride with much less compressible air volume remaining in tire. All of these liquids are non-compressible, from the practical standpoint of tire pressures.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

How much did the antifreeze cost you?

I bought the little valve years ago and just never got around to filling them. It is something I still want to do. I am in southeast Tennessee and we rarely get temps below freezing for days on end, but it does happen. I think I could get away with a mix of water and some type of antifreeze. Interested to hear some of the responses as it has been a while since I have looked into this.

 

[nmeyer]

Thanks everyone. I need to do this with my JD 2038R. I wonder how many gallons needed? An AI bot says about 35 gallons per tire. It has ag tires -- need real tires in the dirt and moving around in the foothills.

 

[walnutman]

AI is just an automated web search robot that doesn't know if its right or wrong.

Question... how do you know when you are at the level you want?