Attaching pto implements

[5030]

Most larger tractors don’t have a mid pto, and many now have an electric switch for engaging the pto.

Far as I know, only the smaller Kubotas have mid pto's. Not the larger ones. and the mid pto is not 540 either, I blieve it's 2100;

 

[5030]

Do you recommend an over running clutch if you do not disengage the PTO until the implement until it stops rotating?

If you ALWAYS wait for the implement to completely STOP, then no.

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

Far as I know, only the smaller Kubotas have mid pto's. Not the larger ones. and the mid pto is not 540 either, I blieve it's 2100;

My Kioti CX2510 has a mid PTO.

 

[Jstpssng]

How would you accomplish this?

Throw the clutch in?

 

[LouNY]

Throw the clutch in?

Most tractors do not disengage the PTO with the clutch depressed, many of the compact and sub compact HST do not even have a clutch.

 

[5030]

Personally speaking, I don't like a tractor with a clutch in the bellhousing, because at some point in it's life it has to be replaced whicn entails a split and lots of cost. Only thing in the bellhousings of my M9's is a damper plate to reduce driveline shock when shuttling from forward to reverse and the travelling clutch on my M's is a multi plate wet clutch, activated by a hydraulic circuit, there is no mechanical direct activation what so ever and the hydraulic circuit 'modulates' itself so the pack don't lock up quickly which eliminates driveline shock.

Does it work? Well after 5000 plus hours on them, I've never had to adjust either and the lockup pressure is in specification.

I ain't gentle on either one as they work hard when they work. Lots of loader work and lots of cutting raking and bailing hay. Because of all the rain we have beem getting lately, the hay is on the back burner (not enough dry down time to make dry hay bales) so I've been dead pulling out weed trees in my pine trees. Birds like to roost in them and poop out seeds and they grow and become weed trees that have to be yanked out, which I've been doing lately and the wet clutch makes it easy with no jerking and no riding a dry clutch. I just engage the shuttle (tractor is in FWA, differentials locked, I can lock both the front and rear) and out they come, roots and all. No muss, no fuss.

I bought one of those 'Brush Grubbers' and they work but a 2 foot length of heavy wall rectangular tubing with one end sharpened and a log chain with a hook on one end and the other fastened to the drawbar works better and is much stronger as well. Leave a bit of slack in the chain and when it gets tight and the sharpened end of the tubing bites into the trunk, out they come like a cork in a wine bottle.

The Brush Grubber takes 2 people to use, the tubing and chain just takes me to work... and the tractor of course.

Only thing better in my opinion would be a CVT transmission and clutch assembly but Kubota don't offer that in my size units, so I have the next best alternative.

 

[ptsg]

On mine, with the wet PTO clutch, I just let the mower slow down to idle and then turn off the PTO. Yes, the PTO brake will still engage but will see very little wear at all.

Other times, as I slow down, I just kick the PTO lever to neutral and let it coast down on its own.

 

[WinterDeere]

I don't really run any high-inertia PTO-driven implements anymore, but I guess I never even thought of the fact that there may be a friction brake used to stop the PTO. I've always been in the habit of starting the PTO down at low idle speed, but stopping it at whatever speed I'm running at the time.

Do modern HST machines still use a friction brake to stop the PTO, or is it all handled by hydraulic damping? I'm not sure it will matter at all with my seed spreader or boom sprayer pump, I've sold my brush hog and PTO snowblower.

 

[CalG]

Personally speaking, I don't like a tractor with a clutch in the bellhousing, because at some point in it's life it has to be replaced whicn entails a split and lots of cost. Only thing in the bellhousings of my M9's is a damper plate to reduce driveline shock when shuttling from forward to reverse and the travelling clutch on my M's is a multi plate wet clutch, activated by a hydraulic circuit, there is no mechanical direct activation what so ever and the hydraulic circuit 'modulates' itself so the pack don't lock up quickly which eliminates driveline shock.

Does it work? Well after 5000 plus hours on them, I've never had to adjust either and the lockup pressure is in specification.

I ain't gentle on either one as they work hard when they work. Lots of loader work and lots of cutting raking and bailing hay. Because of all the rain we have beem getting lately, the hay is on the back burner (not enough dry down time to make dry hay bales) so I've been dead pulling out weed trees in my pine trees. Birds like to roost in them and poop out seeds and they grow and become weed trees that have to be yanked out, which I've been doing lately and the wet clutch makes it easy with no jerking and no riding a dry clutch. I just engage the shuttle (tractor is in FWA, differentials locked, I can lock both the front and rear) and out they come, roots and all. No muss, no fuss.

I bought one of those 'Brush Grubbers' and they work but a 2 foot length of heavy wall rectangular tubing with one end sharpened and a log chain with a hook on one end and the other fastened to the drawbar works better and is much stronger as well. Leave a bit of slack in the chain and when it gets tight and the sharpened end of the tubing bites into the trunk, out they come like a cork in a wine bottle.

The Brush Grubber takes 2 people to use, the tubing and chain just takes me to work... and the tractor of course.

Only thing better in my opinion would be a CVT transmission and clutch assembly but Kubota don't offer that in my size units, so I have the next best alternative.

I'm trying to visualize this brush grubber.

"Out they come, like a cork in a bottle"?????

I must be missing something.

Help me...

 

[Runner]

Do modern HST machines still use a friction brake to stop the PTO, or is it all handled by hydraulic damping?

I don't know, but I have a really hard time believing that a modern tractor is going to destroy the PTO by shutting it down without an override clutch.

On the tractor, I always start implements at about 1500rpm, then throttle up to PTO speed, and gradually slow down to about the same rpm before pushing in the PTO knob.

I wince at the PTO start procedure for my Cub Cadet ZTR, which is "push throttle to full, then pull the knob". Seems like it must be putting unbelievable forces on the entire system. However, I've tried it like I do with the tractor, i.e., run up to about 1/2 speed, then hit the switch, and it bogs the engine to the point it almost kills it. So I grit my teeth and do per the recommended procedure.

 

[WinterDeere]

I wince at the PTO start procedure for my Cub Cadet ZTR, which is "push throttle to full, then pull the knob". Seems like it must be putting unbelievable forces on the entire system.

Same on most ZTR's. I used to try to throttle down to start the clutch, but I was snapping a lot of mule belts that way, as the grab at lower speed seems to be higher and put more stress on the belt. I also lost 2 or 3 electric PTO clutches, although an exhaust leak that was blowing hot gas onto the clutch may have been more responsible for that.

Anyway, someone here on lawnsite convinced me to start engaging at full throttle, and all of those problems went away! There's more slip at the higher speed, it actually takes the mower slightly longer to spool up to synchronize with the engine speed, than at low speed.

 

[Cycledude]

I have also tried both high speed and low speed for starting the blades on my Kubota ZD21 , high speed definitely seems to work better, the manual suggests it has a automatic feathering device built in.

 

[5030]

I don't know, but I have a really hard time believing that a modern tractor is going to destroy the PTO by shutting it down without an override clutch.

On the tractor, I always start implements at about 1500rpm, then throttle up to PTO speed, and gradually slow down to about the same rpm before pushing in the PTO knob.

I wince at the PTO start procedure for my Cub Cadet ZTR, which is "push throttle to full, then pull the knob". Seems like it must be putting unbelievable forces on the entire system. However, I've tried it like I do with the tractor, i.e., run up to about 1/2 speed, then hit the switch, and it bogs the engine to the point it almost kills it. So I grit my teeth and do per the recommended procedure.

Interesting. I engage the pto driven drive shaft front mount mower at an idle and then take it up to speed and do the same when I slow it down to a stop.

 

[5030]

I really don't like the sound of squealing belts one bit. Squealing means wearing to me.

 

[CliffordK]

Is there a trick to attaching pto implements to the pto? Sliding the collar onto the shaft?
I always find it a PIA to connect the 2. Various implements. The collar almost never lines up with the shaft. Then I have to play with the switch for several minutes, turn it on and off, until the shift rotates just right to slide the collar on.
I'm can't turn the implement collar generally, or turn the implement gear box.. too heavy/difficult. Then I'm stuck playing with the pto switch.
Is there an easier method I'm not seeing? Would be nice if one could put the pto in "neutral" so I can turn the shaft by hand.

I use the finishing mower, stump grinder, chipper, tiller etc.

kioti tractor.

I've run into tractors that are a pain to get the PTO and implement shafts lined up. I always have the tractor turned off when messing with the PTO.

What I've found is that most implements have a gear reduction making it hard to turn the shaft. Some implements it is easy enough to turn the implement blade. So, with my flail mower, drum mower, and tedder, I just turn the blades or tines until my PTO shaft is aligned. You can probably also do that with your tiller. I don't know what else has easy safe access.

 

[Runner]

So, with my flail mower, drum mower, and tedder, I just turn the blades or tines until my PTO shaft is aligned.

I do that to get the grease zerks in the driveline at the proper angle to get the gun on them.

 

[fruitcakesa]

Once I realized the the PTO shield was hinged and could pivot out of the way, it was way easier to get my hands on and align the shaft with the stub

 

[shooterdon]

Once I realized the the PTO shield was hinged and could pivot out of the way, it was way easier to get my hands on and align the shaft with the stub

Mine was bolted on and I removed it.

 

[WinterDeere]

Mine was bolted on and I removed it.

Mine is hinged, but I should also remove it. A previous owner of my prior tractor had removed that one, and it was infinitely easier to connect the PTO.

I'm convinced those shields can only make the whole thing less safe, not more safe.

 

[ctgoldwing]

I gave up several months ago. Hand issues made it more than a chore. Should have done this years ago.