Conical PTO Bolt Replacement???

[5030]

Any other thoughts on this one?

Use 272 high strength thread locker on the threads. Make sure it real thread locker and not the imported junk Amazon sells.

 

[mrmikey]

.... so I can put a split ring washer

Lockwashers are only good once the connection comes loose and then it's too late. Nordlocks ( Nord-Lock Washers ) are a different beast.altogether and are supposed to be good but I've never used them so I can't comment.
Use a gr. 8 locknut and a gr. 8 bolt along with red Loctite for good measure if you want.

 

[5030]

Many grades of genuine threadlocker, not just one or two. Has to be the domestically made threadlocker as well which is Heinkle. There is wicking, non wicking, remove with heat and no heat as well as specialized threadlocker for stainless fasteners. I'd use 272 non wicking myself but you need to clean the mating threads with a dry solvent like non-chloronated brake cleaner before hand.

Curious as to what make your grinder is... I have a Land Pride which is the same as a number of articulating grinders and mine uses the indexable carbide inserts produced by a domestic company. Mine also has the slip clutch arrangement though mine has never come loose.

 

[dadohead]

When I started in engineering 30 years ago, an older engineer told me then "nothing will ring your phone in your career more than hardware and springs". He was right!

In a properly designed joint, the energy spent tightening a bolt is stored by stretching it. So, the joint must be ridged and the bolt stretches like rubber. The joint is held from slipping by the  clamp of the bolt. When clamp alone won't hold, you add bolts (more clamp) or a mechanical means such as a pin. Your joint appears to be doing this. I wouldn't drill it out.

Know that most lock washers, lock nuts, etc are bandaids that actually soften the joint and make it harder to put energy into the bolt where you want it. Avoid them! Instead, use high grade hardware and torque the joint to proof. Remember: torque is what we do.  Tension is what we want.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Many grades of genuine threadlocker, not just one or two. Has to be the domestically made threadlocker as well which is Heinkle. There is wicking, non wicking, remove with heat and no heat as well as specialized threadlocker for stainless fasteners. I'd use 272 non wicking myself but you need to clean the mating threads with a dry solvent like non-chloronated brake cleaner before hand.

Curious as to what make your grinder is... I have a Land Pride which is the same as a number of articulating grinders and mine uses the indexable carbide inserts produced by a domestic company. Mine also has the slip clutch arrangement though mine has never come loose.

I use Loctite retaining compound #638 usually. It is very strong at below 100F but weakens a lot up around boiling and above. You can get a nut or whatever off without heat damaging a nearby seal. As far as using a threadlocker on a torque locked joint, its really just insurance. A real advantage in any case though is that the joint is seal from corrosive elements.

I worry about using a threadlocker in OP case. We really dont know whether the bolt is fully seated in the taper. It may be shy of its locking point and slowly moving in to a true taper lock. OP mentions few threads engaged using his replacement nut, so he may be tightening gingerly - 1/4 turn achieved each time. You wouldnt want to prematurely lock that thread.

If I were the least unsure I would buy a new taper bolt and correct nut, clean the socket and tighten to spec.

When I started in engineering 30 years ago, an older engineer told me then "nothing will ring your phone in your career more than hardware and springs". He was right!

In a properly designed joint, the energy spent tightening a bolt is stored by stretching it. So, the joint must be ridged and the bolt stretches like rubber. The joint is held from slipping by the  clamp of the bolt. When clamp alone won't hold, you add bolts (more clamp) or a mechanical means such as a pin. Your joint appears to be doing this. I wouldn't drill it out.

Know that most lock washers, lock nuts, etc are bandaids that actually soften the joint and make it harder to put energy into the bolt where you want it. Avoid them! Instead, use high grade hardware and torque the joint to proof. Remember: torque is what we do.  Tension is what we want.

 

[dadohead]

If I were the least unsure I would buy a new taper bolt and correct nut, clean the socket and tighten to spec.

Absolutely.

The only issue I have with thread lock material is that it disturbs the friction factor in the bolted joint. You have to assume this bolted joint is engineered (not a generic erector set joint) and the published torque was developed with the hardware as delivered. Adding an agent could easily take the bolt beyond it's proof load and yield it.... or  add friction and not let the bolt achieve full tension.

Nylock nuts are almost always low grade and soft (allowing them to head the nylon retainer in place after plating). You need to use hardened nuts and washers (if required) with high grade bolts to achieve the designed tension in a joint. Hope this helps!

 

[Matlax]

Probably there are different sizes. The taper angle may be standard. Ive only encountered them a few times and never needed a replacement. - - Cant you get the part from the stump grinder maker?

I actually found it after it came out. It’s so short that I can’t get a split ring lock washer on there. I got a nyloc nut and the end of the bolt sits flush with that when tightened. I’m nervous I’ll forget to check it routinely.

 

[Matlax]

Thanks for all the help guys! They didn’t publish a torque spec with it. I noticed today I didn’t get as much nut movement, which makes me think the tapered bolt wasn’t fully seated and I’ve been slowly pulling it in. In hindsight, I probably should have given it a few taps with a hammer to seat it better. I’ll give that a shot next time I’m out with it.

 

[Matlax]

Many grades of genuine threadlocker, not just one or two. Has to be the domestically made threadlocker as well which is Heinkle. There is wicking, non wicking, remove with heat and no heat as well as specialized threadlocker for stainless fasteners. I'd use 272 non wicking myself but you need to clean the mating threads with a dry solvent like non-chloronated brake cleaner before hand.

Curious as to what make your grinder is... I have a Land Pride which is the same as a number of articulating grinders and mine uses the indexable carbide inserts produced by a domestic company. Mine also has the slip clutch arrangement though mine has never come loose.

It’s the Woodland Mills WG28. It has a slip clutch too. The taper bolt is on the end that connects to the grinder. I’m absolutely loving the grinder though!

 

[oldballs]

Seems like I have one or two of those tapered bolts on some of my attachments. It is sometimes tricky to get the bolt fully in place, such that it is seated properly. Having a clean joint and an eye for the proper fit is necessary...... has been my experience.

Cheers,
Mike