Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls?

/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #61  
Do you have an idea of what your cost is going to be?
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls?
  • Thread Starter
#62  
Does a geotextile layup exert pressure against a retaining wall??

Even if it doesn't, the fill between the geotextile layup and the wall will exert exactly the same pressure on the wall as if the geotextile layup were not there.

Think of it this way, if I have a 30' vertical piece of 1/2" pipe and fill it with water, the pressure at the bottom will be exactly the same as the water pressure 30' beneath the surface of the largest lake on earth.

No matter how thin the fill layer is, the pressure vs. height relationship is the same. AND, no matter what you do, the fill will always be there. You can either choose what the fill will be by placing it there yourself, or allow it to form from whatever debris is washed out of the geotextile layup, or washed into the space behind the blocks from above. Over time a void behind the wall will always fill up. It is far better to have a material you select than whatever random collection of debris forms naturally.

CurlyDave I'm thinking that the geotextile which is rated at 1400 lbs tension per linear foot.....
will hold back the fill pressure as the textile becomes tensioned.
.....and as the backfill settles to its resting state,
you can imagine removing the bricks and I bet dirt backfill wouldn't fall away.
Like digging a vertical dirt wall, it holds.
It doesn't entomb the gravedigger (usually).
If that was the case all dirt terrain would eventually be "flat".
I guess depending what "eventual" means. Millennia?
I doubt it exerts an "eternal" hydrostatic pressure.
It probably stops eventually, if NOT saturated with water.
Where I live there are steep (dirt) hills that "appear unchanged" year to year.

But OK you can see in my diagram some of the backfill is 5/8 clean, which would fall away, but I can't see it exerting eternal pressure.
I could be wrong.
But agree that rock that drains is the proper material between the sand and the blocks.

Do you have a cross section drawing of the existing geotex you can post?
block wall diagram.jpg

aircommuter here's my documentation (CAD by photoshop😉 ).
Thx for the image airbiscuit!!!

============
Do you have an idea of what your cost is going to be?
Well 170 blocks were $510 plus $75 for homedepot guys = $585
New blocks at the store was $1500 and I didn't even ask what delivery would cost.
I think used blocks could be had for less but these became available at the time that I needed them (now) and I just paid the price.

Geotextile was $400 for a 610ft roll (no pedigree)
drainpipes were $50
20 60lb bags of concrete for the retaining wall supporting the stairs was $100
1/2 yd gravel costs $35 here, I may need another $70yard.
That is $1235 thus far.
There has to be other costs I'm not thinking of.
"Peanuts", you might say....😉
retaining wall blocks.jpg

I dove for the pallets.

Something like twelve?? Or 15? 11yd truckloads of sand were "free" and 11yds of fill dirt for the top.
Hours and hours of my time, my eqpt hours, is "priceless"😉

The wallbuilder guy (tomorrow) may cost $200-$300 per day and I don't know how long he will take.
My (old) back will be so happy that I'm handing over that cash.
I bet he'll appreciate me handing the blocks down to him with the mini-ex.

And it looks like TBN has provided some free engineering, which is much appreciated.

The cost, compared to the value (if it doesn't cause me any trouble) is peanuts.

The purpose of this construction is to create a car-parking space for this little house that's on a steep hillside.
I'm quite curious what you think market value would be ----> if it went out to bid.
It's substantially more construction than the 55ft wall mentioned a few posts back.
 
Last edited:
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #63  
Ok, reading through this, I have the following comments:

For backfill, see if you can get reject intermediate concrete aggregate from a local Redi-Mix supplier. Some have it, some don't, but it is a suitable backfill which is relatively inexpensive if they have it. Back fill as you go. Don't have more than a couple of courses in the air before you backfill. If you have a concrete stinger, it would be a good idea to run it along your backfill, but it isn't critical.

Drainage: I have seen a perforated poly drainage pipe which was 1-1/2-inch diameter. But, have no idea where to buy it. I try not to specify anything a contractor can't buy through a big box like Home Desperate or Lowers. But they may have it. I've never looked to see. Unless you use a washed aggregate for the backfill, do not install drain lines with a sock filter. The number one cause of failure for drains is fines migrating in and clogging the sock. If you use a good drain material for the backfill, even with the drain line several courses up, the gaps in the un-mortared blocks will weep water through the gaps.

If you install tie backs, do not use rebar. It will rust through, and you will lose the strength. If I had designed the wall, I would have installed geotextile as the tie-back and brought the block up as I installed the geotextile lifts. Not sure of an effective but inexpensive way to tie back at this point. But typically, the block manufacturers don't call for tiebacks until you get to about 8-foot. But that depends on the seismic zone. If your growing redwoods, I'm guessing coastal northern California, as a location. So, seismic could be critical. If I were doing the facing block, I might glue the courses together with one of the high stretch urethane adhesives. Not a good substitute for tiebacks, but will keep the block aligned in most instances, and in reality, if the big one hits, nothing will hold up if your close to the epicenter.
Block manufacturers on east side of country call for design and reinforcement if over 4 ft.
There is not enough room behind wall to install tie backs without special equipment
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls?
  • Thread Starter
#65  
IMG_7239.jpeg


Perforated a 1 1/4 for the bottom course.
IMG_7238.jpeg

Ok it’s started.

My guy said he needs to work with his experienced partner. He said there’s too much to learn and much too slow if I was his helper. So it’s gonna cost more per day but I’m sure, less overall.

Watching them set the first course I can see it would have been a crappy wall if I was doing it. Lots of setting, tamping, resetting the first course. Each block gets moves several times. Re-packed, re-set, re-leveled. Looks strenuous.
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #66  
If you get the first layer perfect, everything goes very quickly after that. With drainage and good rock fill, it will probably work. And if it doesn't, you'll always think it should have. :ROFLMAO:
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #67  
Your aching muscles will thank you, Is the wall only going to be 42" high?
Is this bank that needs top be retained the result of new construction? It looks like a tricky contour/buildings
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls?
  • Thread Starter
#68  
The new bank to the left creates a place to park a car, and maybe a little bit of lawn. 4-500 sq ft.
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #69  
I would put a perferated pipe at the bottom with a place to drain out at the end of the wall and one in the middle. I would bak fill with 3/4" crushed stone and then cover the top of the stone with cloth before I covered it with top soil.
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #70  
From the picture with the two guys bent over, it looks like that wall is going to be over 6 feet tall. How far up are you going to go?
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #71  
Idk, seeing the hand dirt tamper in the photo looks like work.
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls?
  • Thread Starter
#72  
block wall diagram.jpg

I made this image with photoshop from an install doc posted by airbiscuit.
I was real happy aircommuter asked for it - because then I had a diagram for the wall builders.
I was ready to do it all by armwaving.
A drawing is much better.

The height of the standing blocks is the final 42".
I have not purchased any top-caps.
I decided to "conserve gravel" a bit because I have a sand mine "on-site"😉.

5 courses,1st day.jpg

Here it is at the end of the 1st day.
5 blocks up.
You can see the plywood separator between the gravel and the (packed) sand.
No fabric between the gravel and sand.
I'll put a level fabric sheet ontop below the topsoil.

gravel $134 for 2y.jpg

I cannot believe the cost of gravel here.
The economics of scarcity makes sense,
but gravel pricing seems controlled by a local cartel.

Remember, the holes for the pipe go on the bottom.
Eddie can you explain why? I told the builders that the holes go down, but he said that doesn't make sense.
He turned them upward and I didn't protest because what he said made more sense than my foggy memory.
I remember your mention for sure.
Can you remember the reason?
 
Last edited:
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #74  
your going to have an extra 1 1/4 of water before your drain pipe starts evacuating. You are paying extra for the transport of small quantities. unless you went and picked it up.
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls?
  • Thread Starter
#75  
Here's what my guy said.
On your hillside it's not going to be flooded behind the wall.
You will have water coming down from above at one or two places.
If you put holes down it will distribute water over the whole base.
If you put holes up it will carry that water out.
 
Last edited:
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #76  
Lots of good info in this thread. Looks like I will be joining the wall building club. Our “new” place we moved to has a retaining wall on one side of the property line that’s about 55 feel long. It starts at 5 feet high and goes down to 2’ heading to the back of the property. The current wall was just stacked rocks and it finally collapsing. No idea how old it is. Cheapest quote to rebuild was 22 thousand, and that’s reusing the existing rocks. So yeah I will be following this for sure.
Compacting with a track machine next to not doing anything.
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #77  
Eddie can you explain why? I told the builders that the holes go down, but he said that doesn't make sense.
He turned them upward and I didn't protest because what he said made more sense than my foggy memory.
I remember your mention for sure.
Can you remember the reason?
The purpose of the pipe is to provide a path for water to drain. Water will go to the bottom of the gravel and then into the pipe through the holes.

If the holes are at the top of the pipe, the water will sit there with no way to get into the pipe.

Putting the holes at the top creates a pond at the bottom of your wall. Basically, you have created a dam that will allow the water to remain there and soak into the base of the retaining wall.
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #78  
The drain slots need to be on the bottom and pitched correctly in a bed of gravel to carry water to daylight. I would cover the gravel/pipe with filter fabric in a situation like this.
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #79  
I think your wall will serve its purpose over your lifetime. That said, I wonder if having the holes facing down reduces the likelihood that sand/silt will infiltrate/plug the pipe over time.
 
/ Who knows about stacked-block retaining walls? #80  
With the drain slots only being on the bottom, there is the risk of clogging with fine material. This is why I posted the importance of bedding the pipe in gravel and covered with filter fabric.

Correct installation of drain pipe is actually a tedious process.
 

Marketplace Items

UNKNOWN  20 FLATBED GOOSENECK (A58216)
UNKNOWN 20...
PJ  32 FLATBED GOOSENECK (A58214)
PJ 32 FLATBED...
2011 TROXELL 140BBL TRI AXLE VACUUM TRAILER (A60736)
2011 TROXELL...
2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Pickup Truck (A55973)
2014 Chevrolet...
John Deere 5525 (A60462)
John Deere 5525...
SKID STEER BUCKET (A58214)
SKID STEER BUCKET...
 
Top