Brown Tree Saw

   / Brown Tree Saw #21  
For the uses you stated, the Brown Tree Saw appears to be an ideal tool for the job.
I looked heavily into these a handful of years ago, and would still love to own one someday.
I think you are on the right track with your line of thinking. Don’t worry too much about looking backwards, unlike a snowblower, you will only be looking backwards for seconds at a time.

As long as you have an HST tractor, this would be a great tool for taking down those trees.
Do you have a grapple to handle them later?
 
   / Brown Tree Saw
  • Thread Starter
#22  
For the uses you stated, the Brown Tree Saw appears to be an ideal tool for the job.
I looked heavily into these a handful of years ago, and would still love to own one someday.
I think you are on the right track with your line of thinking. Don’t worry too much about looking backwards, unlike a snowblower, you will only be looking backwards for seconds at a time.

As long as you have an HST tractor, this would be a great tool for taking down those trees.
Do you have a grapple to handle them later?
I would be using the New Holland TN 65 which has 47 HP at the PTO. Brown suggests at least 30 HP so I'm good in that regard. I also have a grapple for the tractor. Maybe I can sell it to you after I finish?? LOL.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #23  
I would be using the New Holland TN 65 which has 47 HP at the PTO. Brown suggests at least 30 HP so I'm good in that regard. I also have a grapple for the tractor. Maybe I can sell it to you after I finish?? LOL.

I have a different brand, but similar saw, tractor is a 5740 kubota, so similar hp, wouldn’t want it if not a hydrostatic. Saws off the trees flush with the ground for the most part.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #24  
No matter how you get the tree down - chain saw or tree saw. You still have a field of fallen trees. I have no problem with the remaining stumps. My tree stands are out and far away from the house. I do not mow ANY area on my property so the stumps will stay there until they rot.

A grapple may be the answer if you are removing ALL the trees. This will not be an answer for me. I am selectively cutting trees in each stand. So... there will be standing trees when I'm done.

I've tried using my grapple. It's just a whole lot slower than dragging them by hand. Positioning the tractor is what takes the time. Grabbing the downed trees - backing out of the stand - not damaging the remaining trees. This method is like a bull in a china shop.

My big bug-a-boo is dragging the trees to a pile. I've not found any means of doing this better or faster.

I have no reason to complain - it's just the way it's done and done right.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #25  
Eastern cedar, juniper are interesting trees. One of the first trees to colonize after the ice age. Some cedar barrens ecosystem have lasted 10,000 years before being disturbed by man.

In the woods still have cedar stumps cut over 100 years ago. Heart wood very resistant to rot.

Danuser Intimdator very good at removing 6-8” diameter trees and carry them off. Being able carry or drag longways helps negotiate dense woods.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #26  
We have eastern red cedar in middle Tennessee. 6-8" cedars are not that deeply rooted compared to other species of trees.

One problem with any tree saw is that it will leave a stump sticking up above the surface. A dozer will push the stump out. A forestry mulcher will grind the whole tree below the surface. Rather than deal with stumps sticking up or holes everywhere plus deal with handling and burning the trees, I'd recommend the forestry mulcher.

I had forestry mulching done last Fall. This would be my choice.

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What was the cost per acre in your area? Density of area cleared?
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #27  
For 27 years I used a 3-point snow blower to clear my mile long driveway - mailbox area - yard. Four hours looking back over my shoulder. It took two to three days afterward for my neck and shoulders to be pain free again. NO WAY am I going to use any type of 3-point implement that requires operation in reverse. NEVER again.

My neck won't turn around that far anymore.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #28  
I've used a tree shear to cut trees that size flush for new trails. But after driving the trails for awhile, the soil compacts, leaving the stumps protruding several inches in my case. Probably more of a tire hazard than a bush hog problem.

That brush guard looks good since you have to get close to those bushy cedars, but if it scrunches the limbs much, I'd wonder about visibility.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #29  
jmc - SO........ you know that feeling also. It use to take 2 or 3 days for my neck & shoulders to return to normal. I'll be darned if I want to find out how long it would take now.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #30  
jmc - SO........ you know that feeling also. It use to take 2 or 3 days for my neck & shoulders to return to normal. I'll be darned if I want to find out how long it would take now.

Yep, a couple of cervical fusions over the years limited the range of rotation, but without pain. Then one dry summer with hard, bumpy ground, bouncing around on tractors and mowers added pain at the limits. Seems here to stay. Might need a swivel seat if there's room for my legs.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Well, I went ahead and pulled the trigger today. Brown told dealer up to 60-day delivery time. And no, I did not have to pay 100% up front. I will post pics once I get it. Thanks for the feedback.
 
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   / Brown Tree Saw #32  
Well, I went ahead and pulled the trigger today. Brown told dealer up to 60-day delivery time. And no, I did not have to pay 100% up front. I will post pics once I get it. Thanks for the feedback.
Looking forward to your experience and review.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #33  
Well, I went ahead and pulled the trigger today. Brown told dealer up to 60-day delivery time. And no, I did not have to pay 100% up front. I will post pics once I get it. Thanks for the feedback.
What size & cost?
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #34  
BrownAG had, at least, one video of the tree saw in use. It's an awesome implement. It's quick and cuts the trees off right at ground level. I don't know how big a tree it will handle. The video shows them cutting 6" and 8" pines - as I remember. That upper "roll bar" pushes the tree away from the tractor as it's cut and falls.

They can be checked out at - - www.brownmfgcorp.com
 
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   / Brown Tree Saw
  • Thread Starter
#35  
What size & cost?
It'll make an 8 inch cut. If the tree is bigger, cut from one side and then cut from the other side. Most of the cedars are 6 to 12 inches. Cost is $6k delivered. That's a lot but I figure I can sell it and recoup some of the cost when I'm finished. The key thing is that it'll allow me to put that field back into pasture.

Here's a video of the saw. Only difference is that I'm not getting the grapple on the saw since my tractor has a grapple on the FEL.

 
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   / Brown Tree Saw #36  
That low hp tractor would be too small for their smallest tree cutter but more than adequate for the saw.

Goats would have killed those cedar trees and made lush grass pasture. Hard to fence the rascals. Cleared 15 acres of kudzu, multiflora rose on a steep hillside. Now growing back with hardwood since I’m trying to retire (haha). Pound for pound made more with goats than Angus.

On facebook been a brown saw for sale with grapple in Fincastle VA for $5K obo.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #37  
I would purchase without the grapple also and just use FEL to move them. I never seen one in action till the video you posted. Looks like it cuts them ground level. The only problem is I bet the teeth get dull quickly with it cutting down in the dirt.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw
  • Thread Starter
#38  
I would purchase without the grapple also and just use FEL to move them. I never seen one in action till the video you posted. Looks like it cuts them ground level. The only problem is I bet the teeth get dull quickly with it cutting down in the dirt
Brwon says the cutting edge is good for 200 to 300 hours of cutting time. The edges, which are carbide, can be rotated 3 times, so each cutter has a life of 800 to 1200 hours. I think that will enough for what I'm doing.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #39  
Brwon says the cutting edge is good for 200 to 300 hours of cutting time. The edges, which are carbide, can be rotated 3 times, so each cutter has a life of 800 to 1200 hours. I think that will enough for what I'm doing.
No longer that it takes to cut a tree, that’s thousands of trees. Good market around here for cedar wood. Maybe have a band sawer cut on shares help pay for your tree saw, reduce tree waste volume? Bird houses, feeders, carpenter bee traps made from small lumber cedar.

Shaving mill to market cedar shavings?

Don’t throw money away since you are already doing the hard part of cutting down and moving the trees.

Burning is getting harder to do and has risk and liability. Conservation now recommends piles to help support wildlife. Been enjoying seeing a family of foxes from the house this winter. The pile gives them protection from coyotes.
 
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   / Brown Tree Saw #40  
Brwon says the cutting edge is good for 200 to 300 hours of cutting time. The edges, which are carbide, can be rotated 3 times, so each cutter has a life of 800 to 1200 hours. I think that will enough for what I'm doing.
Are they an “off the shelf” replacement tooth?
 
 

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