Brown Tree Saw

   / Brown Tree Saw #21  
For the uses you stated, the Brown Tree Saw appears to be an ideal tool for the job.
I looked heavily into these a handful of years ago, and would still love to own one someday.
I think you are on the right track with your line of thinking. Don’t worry too much about looking backwards, unlike a snowblower, you will only be looking backwards for seconds at a time.

As long as you have an HST tractor, this would be a great tool for taking down those trees.
Do you have a grapple to handle them later?
 
   / Brown Tree Saw
  • Thread Starter
#22  
For the uses you stated, the Brown Tree Saw appears to be an ideal tool for the job.
I looked heavily into these a handful of years ago, and would still love to own one someday.
I think you are on the right track with your line of thinking. Don’t worry too much about looking backwards, unlike a snowblower, you will only be looking backwards for seconds at a time.

As long as you have an HST tractor, this would be a great tool for taking down those trees.
Do you have a grapple to handle them later?
I would be using the New Holland TN 65 which has 47 HP at the PTO. Brown suggests at least 30 HP so I'm good in that regard. I also have a grapple for the tractor. Maybe I can sell it to you after I finish?? LOL.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #23  
I would be using the New Holland TN 65 which has 47 HP at the PTO. Brown suggests at least 30 HP so I'm good in that regard. I also have a grapple for the tractor. Maybe I can sell it to you after I finish?? LOL.

I have a different brand, but similar saw, tractor is a 5740 kubota, so similar hp, wouldn’t want it if not a hydrostatic. Saws off the trees flush with the ground for the most part.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #24  
No matter how you get the tree down - chain saw or tree saw. You still have a field of fallen trees. I have no problem with the remaining stumps. My tree stands are out and far away from the house. I do not mow ANY area on my property so the stumps will stay there until they rot.

A grapple may be the answer if you are removing ALL the trees. This will not be an answer for me. I am selectively cutting trees in each stand. So... there will be standing trees when I'm done.

I've tried using my grapple. It's just a whole lot slower than dragging them by hand. Positioning the tractor is what takes the time. Grabbing the downed trees - backing out of the stand - not damaging the remaining trees. This method is like a bull in a china shop.

My big bug-a-boo is dragging the trees to a pile. I've not found any means of doing this better or faster.

I have no reason to complain - it's just the way it's done and done right.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #25  
Eastern cedar, juniper are interesting trees. One of the first trees to colonize after the ice age. Some cedar barrens ecosystem have lasted 10,000 years before being disturbed by man.

In the woods still have cedar stumps cut over 100 years ago. Heart wood very resistant to rot.

Danuser Intimdator very good at removing 6-8” diameter trees and carry them off. Being able carry or drag longways helps negotiate dense woods.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #26  
We have eastern red cedar in middle Tennessee. 6-8" cedars are not that deeply rooted compared to other species of trees.

One problem with any tree saw is that it will leave a stump sticking up above the surface. A dozer will push the stump out. A forestry mulcher will grind the whole tree below the surface. Rather than deal with stumps sticking up or holes everywhere plus deal with handling and burning the trees, I'd recommend the forestry mulcher.

I had forestry mulching done last Fall. This would be my choice.

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What was the cost per acre in your area? Density of area cleared?
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #27  
For 27 years I used a 3-point snow blower to clear my mile long driveway - mailbox area - yard. Four hours looking back over my shoulder. It took two to three days afterward for my neck and shoulders to be pain free again. NO WAY am I going to use any type of 3-point implement that requires operation in reverse. NEVER again.

My neck won't turn around that far anymore.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #28  
I've used a tree shear to cut trees that size flush for new trails. But after driving the trails for awhile, the soil compacts, leaving the stumps protruding several inches in my case. Probably more of a tire hazard than a bush hog problem.

That brush guard looks good since you have to get close to those bushy cedars, but if it scrunches the limbs much, I'd wonder about visibility.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #29  
jmc - SO........ you know that feeling also. It use to take 2 or 3 days for my neck & shoulders to return to normal. I'll be darned if I want to find out how long it would take now.
 
   / Brown Tree Saw #30  
jmc - SO........ you know that feeling also. It use to take 2 or 3 days for my neck & shoulders to return to normal. I'll be darned if I want to find out how long it would take now.

Yep, a couple of cervical fusions over the years limited the range of rotation, but without pain. Then one dry summer with hard, bumpy ground, bouncing around on tractors and mowers added pain at the limits. Seems here to stay. Might need a swivel seat if there's room for my legs.
 
 
 
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